Safety Warning / CO2 Tanks

paintball-mad wrote: hi all its alright saying use locktite but its a bit useless unless used correctly so hope this helps determine what type you are going to use. locktite 242 (blue) is a thread retainer and will seperate at 60ft Lb" cure in 24 hours. locktite 601 (red) high strength retainer will separate at 220 ft Lb cures in 24 - 48 hours locktite 270 or 2701 (green) high strength retainer separates at 350 ft Lb cures in 24 - 72 hours make sure all parts are clean, use a brass wire brush to clean the valve and if posible the bottle threads. remove all traces of oil and grease from the parts with i.P.A or locktitew 7063. place enough locktite to fill the threads, remove any access and assemble, screw in till tight not just hand tite  then leave to cure. i have only ever used locktite 242 as this can be disassembled cold as aposed to 601 and 270 this needs to be warmed up befoer you can split it.. please i can not stress this enough, make absolutley sure your bottles are empty before working on them. play fare and play safe

WHHOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAA?????!!!!!   Are you saying use blue lock-tite and only hand tight.  WHAD-R-U-NUTZ?!  It seems to be that the proper way to do this is using a Torque Wrench to tighten the valve to 38 ft/lbs with blue lock-tite.  If you don't know what that means, don't mess with your tanks, if not for your own saftey but for others as well.  Damn, hand tight, did you do the installs on the two tanks that came apart and killed two people.  I think they should just make the tank valve non-removable, if you want anti-syphon, order it from the factory, if you want an on-off, order it from the factory.  That would be the smartest idea, all they have to do is,

A) just give you an extra o-ring to place in the ASA to get the syphon to the top,

or

B) make the damn pins in the ASA adjustable, that is easy, some guns already have that, they just use a pin that you can screw in and out with an allen key, make that pin have a nylon-lock-nut type idea to keep them from moving on their own, or just lock-tite.

any one here about the kid in cail?? whit the n2 tank

Xspyderman wrote: [QUOTE=SpYdErOwNeR]i just installed 2 anti siphons on both my 20's. i used blue loctite on one. i just tightened it a lot, my torque wrench doesnt fit on smart parts valves. and i used red loctite on the other one. the blue one held up fine. i didnt get the one with the red loctite filled yet. i sopposed it will be fine. red loctite is pretty strong stuff

Sorry dudes but I have to disagree! I have been filling my own CO2 tanks for years and I install my own anti-siphon tubes in my tanks. I have had to re-align siphon tubes in some of my tanks when I changed markers so the AS tube would be up. I won't for liability purposes argue in favor of any particular strength of loctite, but I will say that if you properly clean and de-grease the valve threads, apply loctite according to the manufacturers instructions, and properly tighten the tank valve you will have no problems. Marking the valve to tank position with a permanent visible mark is also a good idea. When disassembling tanks in which I have previously installed an anti-siphon, I had to warm them first and then it was still difficult to unscrew the tank valve from the tank. When warming a tank to break loose the thread locker, it helps to screw a spare ASA adapter onto the tank to prevent pressure build-up from the heated air in the tank. If you have a tank valve with an open/close valve, be sure to open the valve before warming the tank. For the record, I have never endangered anyone by my actions or modifications to my tanks nor will I fill an outdated CO2 tank.
IMHO I do not favor manufacturers building tanks with non-removable valves. As to the field where a ref has to remove the CO2 tank; how do they work stock games? Does a ref have to come over and change out the 12 grams too?