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Ceesman762 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 June 2011 at 9:06am
Originally posted by Meow2012 Meow2012 wrote:

My sear on my tippman gryphon keeps on catching on the rear bolt. can you help?

I think you should make a thread about this in the GM&R rather than posting in  a dead thread.  THat way others may be able to review the issue and post a solution.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Meow2012 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 June 2011 at 11:48pm
My sear on my tippman gryphon keeps on catching on the rear bolt. can you help?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McNiven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 August 2010 at 10:21pm
Well after reaplacing everything in the formentioned poste and though it works better its still doing it, so next step reaplace the sear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McNiven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 August 2010 at 12:48am
thats sweet dude thanks. I'll give that a go and If it dont work I'll be back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HadesAssassin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 August 2010 at 6:47pm
So I just figured out what my problem was, replaced the sear and is working fine now.
The strange part is that the gun is only 4 months old and the sear showed minimal wear (just a few minor areas of bare metal where the black wore off). 

I took it to the store I bought it and we changed out springs which made no difference but was fixed as soon as a new sear was installed.  Unfortunately the sear is an expensive piece to replace (compared to 2 dollar spring) but if its still under warranty its an easy fix.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McNiven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 August 2010 at 7:42pm
I bought a delux parts kit. Reaplaced the drive spring,guide pin,O-ring on the rear bolt,and that O-ring that stops the bolt from going to far back,though it wasent dirty I cleaned the **** out of it,gave it a few drops of oil and, I'll give that a go. I will poast my reasaults.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HadesAssassin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 August 2010 at 6:09pm
I recently started having what sounds to be same problem with my bravo one although I dont have e grip
i noticed a strange clicking in the bolt handle when this happened that doesnt happen on my buddies properly functioning bravo one
not sure what the cause is yet but may be a few things; possibly out of shape or worn drive spring or guide pin, or could be an issue with the bolt handle, bolt plug, or the bolt itself

if you figure out your problem post it up it may be the same thing as mine and ill post if i get an answer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McNiven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2010 at 10:20pm
Ever since I installed an E-Trigger in my 98 I get a couple bursts out then the cocking leaver is just short of being fully cocked at witch point I fully cock it and start the cycle over again. (I have air and the Batterie for the E-Trigger is new.) **edited**
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pm666 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2010 at 9:05am
I have to buy an E-grip for 98 Tippman Bravo Sierra and Sierra for my one and I have done EVERYTHING correctly, an engineer certify in airsoft. The switch more sense egrips operate the gas and triggering the launcher turns deadly bomb! But I've survived. and I again, 32 tantative. For now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ChEwYY$$ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2010 at 2:24am
Any one have trouble shooting tips for Hall Effect E grip for A5?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote asfaraslogic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2008 at 4:29pm

This is a well thought out thread! Kudos to everyone who has provided this great resource.

However I have a flatline, with quick disconnect threads, and for some reason, no matter the paintballs I put in my marker it is inaccurate. Additionally the barrel always seems to come loose, so I tend to have to hold it in place during games. I have taken my marker apart and nothing seems wrong with it? Could this be fixed? Would Tippmann be able to maybe refurbish my barrel? And who and how much to do so?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote detroit sultans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 December 2007 at 10:37am
i have a tippman 98 pro with act and e grip for some reason i fire my gun and it wont stop fireing until i grab the firing pin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote an94 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 September 2006 at 9:59pm
how about some imfo for Ebolts?
1 paintball gun package=$150
1 case of paint=$50
air & entry fee=$15
lighting up newbies all day long= Priceless
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bassist11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2006 at 10:58pm
very nice stuff. extremely helpful. thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hapet02 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 March 2006 at 9:50pm
nice work guys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 January 2006 at 4:14pm

Disassembling Your Power Valve

I am sure this sequence, on taking apart the power valve, has been posted before. I have posted the sequence with just a verbal explanation. But, I have just acquired a digital camera and can clarify some of the steps.

After removing the power valve from your marker the disassembly is started by depressing the end plug. This is the brass plug in the opposite end from the pin. Anything can be used as a tool suitable to the job. In my case I used a blue plastic ball point pen. Using the blunt end of the pen I pushed the plug down the barrel of the valve. When the plug reach the opening into which the braided line fits, I used the pen cap to block the plug and hold the spring compressed.

Next the clip ring or circle ring must be removed. The ring has a small tip that you can gently pry out of the groove using a tool like a dental pick or, in this case, a knife blade. Take care if you use the knife. If you slip you are stabbed or possibly badly cut. Any tool with a point of some kind will work.

You can see here the tip of the blade has pried the tip of the clip away from the groove and has been slipped under the tip to prevent it from snapping back into its slot.

You can then just rotate the valve body causing the ring clip to spiral over the blade and out of the barrel of the valve.

And it is out!

Next, reinsert the blunt end of the pen to depress the plug and remove the pen cap. Slowly release the pressure on the pen to allow the valve's internal spring to push the plug back to the end of the valve body.

You may have to tap the valve body on the table top to get the plug to pop out. This particular power valve is an original one with all standard parts. The valve that comes with the Low Pressure Kit differers slightly, but not in any way that changes the disassembly procedure. The low pressure valve has a spring with smaller diameter wire with more coils per inch. (The gold colored "O" ring you see on the plug can sometimes crack, but rarely, and be the source of a gas leak)

The next step is to remove the pin valve, it's seat and the "O" ring seal. You can push the pin valve into the body of the power valve. Then shake, or let it fall, out of the open end of the valve body.

Here you can see all the internal parts. Right to left: The plug with its "O" ring seal; next the spring; then the pin valve; and the pin valve seat (a brass "washer" with a small ridge on its inner edge that embeds into the inner rubber face of the pin valve's head to create the seal and stop gas flow);and last is the "O" ring seal that seals the underside of the seat washer to the inside of the power valve.

When your valve leaks gas, that comes out of the barrel, these mating surfaces, the rubber face and the brass washer with its embedding ridge, are not seated against each other properly. Usually it is just a piece of trash that may be flushed from between the surfaces with a little oil squirted into the ASA followed by several shots (gas pressure shots, no paint and no barrel to prevent oil from getting into the barrel). It that does not clear the trash and stop the leak, you then move to this disassembly task as explained so far.

After complete disassembly you will have these parts on the table top.

EDIT June 3,2007

There is a little trick here that may reduce the likelihood of a leak when reassembling the valve. The pin can be unscrew from the brass head (take care not to scratch the pin...I use a small piece of leather between the jaws of my pliers to protect the pin shaft) and the black rubber (actually a very firm plastic) sealing washer then can be removed. That washer will have a groove imbedded into the surface where it has been sealing against the brass ridge.

When you reassemble, every once in a while the seal between the brass seat and the washer doesn't align and a leak can happen. Over time it usually reseats and the leak goes away. But, take the washer and flip it over. The back side is as smooth as brand new.

Re-assemble the pin valve and re-install it with that "new" side out and 99 out or 100 times the re-assembled valve with work perfectly with no leak at all. The potential for a leak in these mating surfaces is why many pro shops wilL not rebuild valves. But you can do it!

===============
Now in the process of disassembling this valve, which was leaking, I discovered a couple of likely problems. First the raised ridge on the inside edge of the brass washer had several significant nicks. Caused by what? Obviously some trash that had been able to travel through the gas system and lodge, for a while, between the mating surfaces...long enough to damage the edge. Let me say that even with this damage the parts could still seal because the rubber surface of the pin valve head is soft enough to conform to these scratches and dents. The parts take a "set" to the irregularities. If you take a valve like this apart then put it back together, with the same parts, it may not seal because the dips and nicks on the ridge will not re-align with conforming part of the rubber seal.

Oiling and letting a reassembled valve sit for a while may allow the parts to conform again and the valve may seal.

===========

There have been discussions as whether to use Loc Tite or Teflon ribbon to seal the threads when the braid is screwed into the power valve. When I got this valve apart I noticed something hanging from the threads inside the valve body. It was a shredded bit of Teflon ribbon. The picture below shows the stuff with the arrows. The inserted picture shows what it looked like after I pulled it out with a pair of tweezers.

Strands of this, even though it is soft, can get between the sealing surfaces of the pin valve and cause a leak.

From this find of Teflon in the valve I'd recommend that those with little experience using Teflon ribbon should stick with Blue Loc Tite. Teflon certainly can be used, but a lot of care must be taken to not wrap it too close to the end of the fitting. Use it back from the tip of the fitting just so it is in the threads as they engage the hole.

Even then, when fittings are removed care should be taken to brush or tweeze the remnants of the ribbon from the threads. If not removed, when the fitting is placed back into the hole it will push those shreds into the valve.

If you have any questions, if there needs to be clarification, just ask.

======================

Thought I'd come back and add a little about Blue "Loc Tite." The stuff that works well is the gel. It sets up ("drys") quickly, seals well, and can be adjust after it is "hardened" and it still doesn't leak. You can immediately, after putting thing together with it, pressurize the system. It also is a medium locking material so that the parts can be taken apart with standard tools. (I use the name Loc Tite interchamgeably with Permatex...the products are virtually the same...certainly the colors are.)



Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 16 August 2007 at 3:06pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ANARCHY_SCOUT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 September 2005 at 8:48pm

              98 custom double trigger

So you want a double trigger and you want to save money?

heres the ghetto cheap way to do it.

1. take out the single trigger.

2. Sand down the little bump at the end of it.

3.drill a small hole in the middle of the bottom.

   (carefull not to drill to far in because it might crack the trigger.)

4. put a allen wrench in the hole that fits snuggly.

5.make sure you put like super glue or Jb weld glue in the hole.

6. cut off the angeled part of the allen wrench.

7. wait and let the glue dry.

8.put it in and try it.

9. make shure to make some kind of trigger gaurd.

 I am not responsible for any problems you have.

 

Gamertag: Kataklysm999
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brutl_force Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 March 2004 at 8:25pm
I see a lot of people asking how to remove damaged body screws, so:

I have found that special left handed bits, easy-outs, damaged screw removers, and liquid wrench are actually the long, expensive way to do it.
The process of removing a damaged body screw(rounded head) is reletively simple.
1. remove a body screw that you CAN remove.
2. Go to your Dad's tool box and get a bit that fits
   down the shaft that the screw goes in. (A bit with a
   slightly smaller diameter than that of the screw) Or
   get a cheap set from your hardware store of choice.It
   should not be a lot smaller, just enough to easily
   travel through the hole.
3. Drill off the head of the bad screw. Be sure to drill
   strait down. The head will come off and stay on the
   bit. It will probably take a pliers to get the bolt
   head off the bit, but not an issue.
4. Remove all other screws and take the gun apart.
5. Go to the screw that you drilled, and simply use your
   fingers or a pliers and easily screw out the
   remaining screw shaft.
6. When you are ready to put the gun back togeather, put
   in a new screw, and buy a set of new allen wrenches
   (preferably stainless steel) due to the fact that the
   Tippmann wrenches are soft steel. Thus they round,
   and in turn round out the bolts.

Works great, do it all the time.
Brutl
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beltismad,yo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2004 at 12:20am

I figure this might help y'all a little bit:

I have made almost all of the reassembly misteaks possible on an SL68II. Being a pump, and a Tippmann, it is fairly simple. If you've ever taken one apart, there are what? About 6 or 7 parts that you can easily take out. (Front bolt, hammer, valve assembly, end cap, bolt spring, and the valve spring.) The rest is held in place by pins, and only needs to be taken out when you are replacing or modifying it.

To disassemble a SL68II, first and foremost; DEGASS IT AND TAKE THE TANK OFF. If you don't, you'll have a not-so-pleasent suprise when you fianlly take it apart. Losen the pinch screw underneeth the barrel, and slide the barrel and pump arm out. The front bolt will come with the pump arm, so be careful. (First time I disassembled my SL68II, the bolt fell off and slid across the room.. not good) Try not to drop the bolt, if you do, it may not end well. The Bolt spring should come out next. Next, you need to get the hammer out. I find it easiest to squeeze the trigger, and knock the front of the reciever ont something. Weather it be your palm or the desk, just be careful not to break it. It should slide right out once you loosen it. If so so desire, you can take the valve out. All you need to do is take your allen key, and slide it into that hole on the side of the end cap. Then loosen it, and take it out. The end cap is uber long, so it will take quite a while to fully unscrew it. Next, pull out that little valve spring that is in there. I find it easy to knock the back of the reciever against something to loosen the valve up, so it will fall out. Give it 5 or 6 good wacks against your palm, it should come out.

After you clean it, and oil it, it comes to reassembly. This is the hard part.

I usally put the valve and end cap in first, when I'm reassembling my SL68II. Slide the valve back in, along with that spring that goes behind it. Screw the end cap back in, until it is hand tight, then finish it off with the allen key. Rember, make sure it is tight, beacuse when you gas it up, and fire it, there is about 800 psi on this part.. you want to make sure it is in there good. But, Do not over tighten it.

Now, you can do this next step one of two ways.

You can either, take the bolt and hammer (with the spring in the middle) and try to push them togeather, until the sear lock into place. (hard to do, and dangerous) Or slide the parts in one by one.

I usally put the parts in one by one.

Take the hammer and slide it in. Make sure that the "hook" end is facing twords the FRONT of the reciever. (look on the bolt, see that little square section cut out? the hook needs to latch onto that..) The smooth side of the sear goes twords the REAR of the reciever (twords the valve). I find it easy to squeze the trigger, and push the hammer in. It should slide right in. Next goes the bolt spring. Just drop it in there.

This next step may be a little hard for those of you with a lower-than-average I.Q. but, follow directions carefully, and you wont have any problems.

Take the front bolt and look at the bottom of it. There should be one hole, on the bottom, twords the front of the bolt. (The front side of the bolt has an O-ring on it) The linkage arm for the pump handle fits into that hole. Slide the linkage arm into that little hole. Next, slide the barrel back into the pump handle. After you do that, slide the whole assembly back into the front of the reciever. Push the barrel all the way back, then tighten that little pinch screw.

 

Your SL68II should now be fully assembled.

I'm giving up flaming and spamming, in my efforts to improve the forum. (Don't laugh)

Belt Still Pwns Joo.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Enos Shenk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2004 at 3:24pm
Relocated from New Player

-----

So you just got a new shiny Tippmann, and you decided to take it apart. Unfortunately, when you put it back together, it doesnt work. Sucks doesnt it?

 For that reason, Enos and Reb have made this list of common reassembly mistakes. Inspired by Reb's friend that took his A5 apart and messed it up.

---A-5 Stuff by Enos---

Q: "I screw the tank on, and gas leaks out of the tombstone adapter area really bad"

A: Chances are you messed with the valve, or the washer and o-ring fell out of the tombstone slot. Check to see if you forgot to put these parts back in. If you did, make sure you put them in the right order. The washer goes in first, then the o-ring. They should "snap" in, not just sit there loose.


Q: "I cant cock the gun, the handle barely moves."

A: You put the front bolt in backwards. The raised part with the hole that the link arm fits in points backwards. The o-ring end faces the barrel.


Q: "When i go to shoot stuff, it just chops paintballs"

A: Chances are you took the halves completely apart (Something you dont need to do), and put the ball detent in backwards. The ball detent should slant up in the direction of the barrel.


Q: "Balls just roll out the barrel"

A: You forgot the ball detent completely didnt you?


Q: "I cock the gun and fire and it barely shoots"

A: One of the main causes of this is forgetting the long nail-shaped rod that goes inside the main spring. Remember that the "head" of this pin faces the rear of the gun. Unfortunately if you forgot this part and cocked the gun, it almost certainly ruined your spring. This can also be caused by a backwards ball detent (See above)


---98 Stuff by Reb Cpl---

Ball detent


First and foremost, remember your ball detent. It's that little orange thing that sits under the front bolt. It prevents you from double feeding and chopping paint. Forgetting it will force you to clean up your mess and disassemble the marker again to get it right this time. Make sure you put it in the right WAY too. If it's in backwards, the front bolt will jam or not close…you'll know if you put it in the wrong way. It's easy to forget this little guy, but it's not something you want to do.

Front sight spring.
These things are a severe pain if you don't know what you're doing. Make sure it's in properly, as it serves as the latch for the elbow. Without the spring, the elbow has nothing to latch to, and you'll find yourself wondering just how in the heck you keep the hopper from falling off. It's pretty simple once you get the hang of it, you set it in there, then place the front sight over it, on it's pin. That'll hold it in place when you reassemble the receiver halves.

Buffer O-ring.
If you put your marker back together and theres this large black O-ring left over, it's probably the Buffer O-ring. It's on the 98 Customs, and not the Oldschool 98's. What that does it is keeps the rear bolt from slamming into the endcap. Without it, it'll produce stress on the endcap and bolt. It fits over the drive spring and just sits there.

Front bolt
Make sure it's in the right way. If you put it in backwards, you wont be able to fully cock the marker. The hole for the cocking rod goes to the rear of the marker. It's drilled into a little square (for the 98c) raised piece or a round raised piece for the M98.

Valve Screws
These are the two little screws that are on the right side of the marker. They screw into the valve/power tube assembly. When you tighten them, BE CAREFUL. Sometimes you can overtighten them and strip them or their fitting threads, which will result in them falling out later on. That's a bad thing, (duh) because the marker will fail to recock itself and just 'burp' even with a full tank. They are vital, so be careful with them.


Safety
The safety needs to be in correctly upon reassembling the marker. If it isn't, you may have trouble pulling the trigger, or may have the marker fire on accident. It's pretty simple, there's the words "Push to fire" on one receiver, and "Push Safe" on the other. Set it up so the little red o-ring is on the side marked "Push Safe" This way, when the marker is ready to fire, there's a little red band. Red means shootable. If you look and theres no red band on either side of the marker on the safety bar, the marker should not be able to fire.


---Carbine Series Stuff by Enos---


Q: "What?! I cant get the rear bolt in over the sear!"

A: If your skilled you can hold it down with something like a screwdriver, but its difficult. Just loosen the 2 rear gripframe bolts, pull it down enough to get the bolt in, and your set.


Q: "I was shooting, and the link arm flew out the top"

A: On a carbine series gun, you must have a rear sight on. It holds the link arm in.


Q: "The gun wont cock at all"

A: You put the front bolt in backwards. The hole for the link arm goes in the back, and the o-ring side faces the barrel.


Q: "I got this weird soft rubber thing left over"

A: Thats the buffer ring. It slides over the main spring between the end cap and the rear bolt.


Q: "When i gas the gun up, it leaks like crazy from the hose where it goes into the gun"

A: If you took that hose out of the gun (Which you dont need to do to field-strip), its almost certain the tiny o-ring that goes between the hose fitting and the valve got chewed up. They always do when you remove that fitting. Find a replacement.
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