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Uber Upgrades & FAQ: Please Read!

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TippyFreaK03 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TippyFreaK03 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 January 2004 at 9:20pm

Well, KRL said i should put this in here now so here it is. Also, here is a link to the original thread so you can view all the questions and answers that followed.

 

http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/forum_posts.asp?TID=72845& PN=1

 

RT and E-Grip Comparison

 

Too many people post topics on which is better for the A-5; the E-grip or the Response trigger. I was one of these people once. Through this post I hope to prevent more posts that ask the same question.

 

A-5

Response Trigger

 

The response trigger system is a firepower upgrade available only for the Tippmann 98 and the Tippmann A-5. It is powered by excess gas during blowback. This gas causes a piston inside the response cylinder to jolt forward, which in turn pushes the trigger back to the ready to fire position much faster than the normal trigger return spring can. This is an advantage because if you keep constant pressure on the trigger while moving your finger slightly, you can achieve an almost ďfull-autoĒ effect, though it is still 1 ball per pull. This full-auto effect is accomplished by finding the sweet spot. The sweet spot is the right amount of pressure applied to the trigger to achieve constant fire. The piston will push the trigger, along with your finger, back to the ready to fire position almost immediately after the gas charge is released. Therefore, if you keep pressure on the trigger, the force of your finger on the trigger will fire the marker, and the force of the piston on the trigger will push the trigger back to the ready to fire position. The RT is adjustable in that you can adjust the amount of air flowing into the cylinder by turning a screw. The response trigger is capable of, on average, about 15 balls per second. Though a finely tuned RT may achieve a higher rate of fire than that. The response trigger is available as a drop in upgrade for your 98 custom or A-5. It costs between $70-$80 on the web, depending on where you look.

 

Picture

 

E-grip

 

          The e-grip is an electronic upgrade for youíre A-5. It replaces the stock grip and looks and feels exactly the same. Unlike the e-bolt (for the model 98), the e-grip is a sear tripper, rather than a true electro pneumatic (e-bolt). the e-grip is capable of reaching a capped limit of 15 balls per second. The rate of fire is selected by using a small screwdriver to change rate. Firing mode is selected in the same way. When you pull the trigger, a switch is released which activates a solenoid. When the solenoid is activated, it trips the sear for you. Since YOU are not tripping the sear, and only releasing a switch on the pull, the trigger pull on the e-grip is very light. Various trigger mods can shorten the pull even more also. The e-grip is powered by a 9-volt battery that sits in the grip itself. This 9-volt battery will power the e-grip for about 3000 shots, at which point, it would need to be changed. To install the e-grip, simply remove the ASA from the bottom of the stock grip, remove the 2 pushpins holding the grip on, and pull it off. Then put the e-grip on where the stock grip was. Return the 2 push pins into the holes holding the grip, and return the ASA to the bottom of the e-grip the same way you took it off. Itís that simple. The e-grip comes with five different firing modes. They are:

 

Full Auto: constant fire while trigger is depressed

 

Semi Auto: one shot per trigger pull

 

3 round burst: 3 shots per pull; can be stopped in middle of burst if trigger is released

 

Auto Response: one shot per pull and one shot per release

 

Turbo: semi auto until four shots per second is exceeded, at which point it becomes Auto Response mode

 

The e-grip can be purchased for around $115 on the web and will only work on an A-5.

Picture

                                                              

          The GTA (genuine tippmann accessories) double trigger will increase the performance of both of these upgrades, and will increase rate of fire and decrease pull weight even by itself.

 

A good place to purchase these upgrades and many more is

http://www.countypaintball.com/

 

If anyone has anything that they would like to add regarding these upgrades, or if there is something I missed, please share. Your input is much appreciated.

 

I hope this provides some help to all of you people out there who are trying to decide which of these great upgrades to get.

 

TippyFreaK03



Edited by TippyFreaK03
The A-5's days are numbered...
Now I be rockin teh' 05' Vision Shocker w/ Nerve Board
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tgaffner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2004 at 5:08pm

All about the R/T

What is it?

The Response Trigger System is a Drop-In Kit that Tippmann Pneumatics sells for both the 98 (Custom or Model) and the A-5. It is a Drop-In Kit for the A-5 and 98 Custom. But, the Model 98 needs to be milled for it to fit in right. Tippmann will take your Model 98, give you 98 Custom Receiver Halves, Along with the other parts needed, and will give you an R/T for $120.

How it works:

When the 98 or A-5 fires, there is excess Gas/ Air thatr is not used to propel the Paintball. Usually, that is just extra Gas/Air and is vented away. But with the R/T, it uses that excess Gas/ Air to power a little Piston that is located behind the Trigger. So, after everytime you shoot/fire the Paintball Marker, the R/T will take that excess Gas/Air and it will send the Gas/Air to the R/T's Piston. When that happens, the Piston will fill up with Air and it will push forward a little pin which will re-set the Trigger. It will do it fast enough so you will still end up having force on the Trigger. So, you will pull it again. That is called "Trigger Bounce".

What is all included:

98: The Response Trigger for the 98 will come with a new R/T Power Tube, R/T Hose (Cocker 3-Way), Banjo Fitting, Knurled Adjuster, and R/T Piston.

A-5: The Response Trigger for the A-5 will come with a new 3-Way Banjo Fitting for both the Cyclone and R/T, Knurled Adjuster, Knurled Adjuster Fittings, and R/T Piston.

FAQ:

1. Does the R/T use more Air?
No it does not! The R/T uses EXCESS Air to power itself.

2. How many BPS can it shoot?
Most R/T's will shoot around 14-15 BPS. But, some well tuned R/T's will fire at 16-17 BPS.

3. Is it Full Auto?
Not really. It just "Bounces" the Trigger. It is still 1 shot for each Trigger Pull.

4. Is it Tourny Legal?
It all depends. Some Feilds allow it, some dont. Go and ask them.

5. My R/T is not working. Whats wrong?
It could be a few problems.

1. You are putting too muich force on the Trigger. Therefore, the Piston cant Re-Set the Trigger.
2. There is something blocking the R/T's Air Hose.
3. The R/T is not adjusted properly.

6. My R/T is open on the end!!
The new R/T's have an Open "Face" on them.

How to install the Response Trigger:

98:
1. Dissassemble your Marker.
2. Remove the Valve Bolts and Re-Move the Power Tube.
3. Remove the Air hose or Verticle Adapter from the Valve/ Power Tube.
4. Get the Valve out of the Power Tube. You can lightly tap the Power Tube on a towle untill the Valve slides out.
5. Insert the Valve into the NEW Power Tube.
6. Take the right Receiver Half and a Nail-Set or Hole Punch. There is a little Groove/Slot about the Grips. Knock out that little "Plug"
7. Install the R/T Piston.
8. Put in all the Internals including the Power Tube. Dont forget the Valve Bolts!
9. Screw on the Banjo Fitting and Knurled Adjuster. Connect the Air Hose.
10. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

A-5:
1. Dissassemble the Marker. Take off the Grip Frame.
2. On the Right side of the Grip Frame, there is a small "Notch". Break that little peice out. You can use your fingers.
3. Take apart the Grip Frame and put in the R/T Piston.
4. Put in the new Trigger Plates. (If included) Some have them, some dont....
5. Take apart the Marker. Install the Knurled Adjuster and Fittinginto the bottom right hand corner of the Marker.
6. Put the Marker back together.
7. Take off the old Banjo Fitting (Connected to the Cyclone) and put on the new one.
8. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

For more info, check out the Tippmann Systems Page on www.tippmann.com

-tgaffner

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HeadHunter59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2004 at 5:58pm

~What you can find Co2 vs. nitro, Helpful things for Co2 and for it to wrk beter in all typs of play, Helpful things for Nitro and for it to work better.~

I Would Like To Thanks Milkman, KRL15,Tippmann Tech People, And My Self. For all this info. ~SOME Was Mine SOME was Others.~

~Frist~

Co2 vs. Nitro

Done By Tippmann Tech

 

Co2 changes pressure as the temperature changes, the higher the temperature the higher the pressure. The change in pressure is caused from Co2 compressing to a liquid at a fairly low pressure. 

 

As the temperature of the Cylinder increases more of the liquid is boiled into a gas, causing the pressure to increase.  The marker is designed to function mainly on the gas portion, but it is very difficult to separate the liquid from the gas.  If the valve in your marker is colder than the cylinder, Co2 gas will condense back into a liquid inside the valve. If the two areas are the same temperature, which is normally the case, the valve will draw and use a combination of both liquid and gas. This constantly changing of pressure causes inconsistency in velocity along with inefficiency. 

 

The reason the markers are designed to use Co2, is because Co2 is very abundant and affordable.  The CVX valve does an excellent job compensating for this inconsistency  giving  you excellent efficiency and consistency.  

 

Compressed air is simply outside air compressed at a higher pressure.  Outside air contains mostly nitrogen (78%), 21 percent oxygen, and the remaining 1 percent is a mixture of gases.  The majority of the gas in compressed air is nitrogen.  The difference in performance between nitrogen compressed and air compressed in the paintball marker application is very little if any. 

Compressed air and nitrogen are very slightly affected by temperature change, which gives better results in shot to shot consistency over Co2.  Also with compressed air and nitrogen the marker can be set up to operate off of a preset regulated pressure giving you more gas efficiency.  With Co2, the marker has to function at a large variety of pressures.  In order to achieve this some efficiency is sacrificed. 

~Second~

Done by milkman/I add soem things

Helpful Things for Co2/And all typs of things for it to work better

For co2 to work better in all types of play you should look into getting these or at least some of these.

Frist is and Expansion Chamber-- The Expansion chamber help the co2 expaned so you can get moee consitant shots and for you'r gun wont freeze up if you are in fire fights. You can also get a few more shots beucase you are letting the co2 have more  time to expaned and this helps so your guns dosent freeze up.

Second LP kit--  The LP kit or Low Pressure kit.A low operating pressure is considered anywhere from 50-400psi. On any gun, running at a lower pressure could mean more shots per tank, less recoil, and better consistency over the chrono.  Is a drop in kit that aollows your gun to run better and it works like a Reg(ill get into that later) It replaces the bolt/or valve. When useing this with co2 it well help better the Expansion chambers it well help you greatly when in fire fights and you can run from 50-400psi.(this also helps with HPA/Nitro get into that later.)  So people say why would you want to put in $100 some dollors for this. Well this coudl mean you can get more shots per tank,Less recoil, Not as much ball chopping, better consistency. The Tippmann Comp Air kit gives you a lighter rear drive spring, lighter rear bolt, high flow valve, low pressure chamber, and a vertical adapter with t-fitting. With all of these things installed on your 98 Custom along with a regulator, your 98 Custom is capable of operating at 350psi or lower.

Remote-- A remote is like a hose that you have that runs for the power tub to the ASA. but more felx able. You put one end in the ASA and one end on the end of your Co2 tank and put it in you poch or what every you would use to carry your co2 tank. This also helps the Co2 have time to expandend.

Palmer Stabilizer-- The Stabilizer is a great regulator for Co2 or Nitrogen, and here?s why (copied from Palmers FAQ page): ?The major benefit of the Stabilizer over the UniReg is that the Stabilizer will maintain consistency just about twice as well as the UniReg can. This is due to the design and dimensioning of the unit. Through any regulator there is a certain amount of inverse pressure variation in the output pressure that results from the variation in supply pressure. (as the supply pressure to the regulator goes up or down, the output pressure will go up or down, exactly opposite, and in a ratio that is proportional to the valve and diaphragm (or plunger) dimensions. (i.e. as the supply pressure goes down, the regulated pressure will go up slightly and vice-versa) In the case of a UniReg, that ratio of change is approx. 35:1; meaning that for every 35 psi of supply pressure change, the output pressure will vary approx. 1 psi. The Stabilizer will only vary about 1/2 as much. In other words, the Stabilizer is rated as a 70:1 regulator, in that it takes a 70 psi change in supply pressure to yield a 1 psi change in output pressure.? The Stabilizer is also adjustable from 0-900psi. This regulator will cost anywhere from $65-$95, depending on which setup of the Stabilizer you choose, and it can be found at Palmer-Pursuit

Other quality regs are the Air America brand regulators, such as the Vigilante. Although I don?t have any personal experience with this brand, a lot of people have told me many positive things about them.

~Thired~

Done by Milkman/I add somethings

Helpful Things For Hpa to work better.

Frist is the LP kit-- what you can also look at in the Co2 section.  A low operating pressure is considered anywhere from 50-400psi. On any gun, running at a lower pressure could mean more shots per tank, less recoil, and better consistency over the chrono. Low pressure can have numerous benefits such as: more shots per tank, less ball chopping, less recoil, better consistency, and of course the bragging rights of knowing your gun has a low operating pressure and can achieve all of these things.

Regs-- Regs are things that would go were your Hose that connects to the Power tube. A regulator regulates the air flow to your marker. A regulator will take the high pressure gas that is in the tank, and will step it down to a lower pressure, so that it can be safely used in a marker.
Most regulators are adjustable, meaning you can control the operating pressure, in psi, of your marker. Most regulators are meant to be used with Nitrogen. Some regulators can be used with Co2. One regulator that works well with CO2 is the Palmer Stabilizer. The Stabilizer works equally well with Nitrogen and Co2.  MOST REG'S WORK BETTER WITH HPA. But THe Palmer Stbalizer Works Best With Co2.

Palmer Stablizer--- The Stabilizer is a great regulator for Co2 or Nitrogen, and here?s why (copied from Palmers FAQ page): ?The major benefit of the Stabilizer over the UniReg is that the Stabilizer will maintain consistency just about twice as well as the UniReg can. This is due to the design and dimensioning of the unit. Through any regulator there is a certain amount of inverse pressure variation in the output pressure that results from the variation in supply pressure. (as the supply pressure to the regulator goes up or down, the output pressure will go up or down, exactly opposite, and in a ratio that is proportional to the valve and diaphragm (or plunger) dimensions. (i.e. as the supply pressure goes down, the regulated pressure will go up slightly and vice-versa) In the case of a UniReg, that ratio of change is approx. 35:1; meaning that for every 35 psi of supply pressure change, the output pressure will vary approx. 1 psi. The Stabilizer will only vary about 1/2 as much. In other words, the Stabilizer is rated as a 70:1 regulator, in that it takes a 70 psi change in supply pressure to yield a 1 psi change in output pressure.? The Stabilizer is also adjustable from 0-900psi. This regulator will cost anywhere from $65-$95, depending on which setup of the Stabilizer you choose, and it can be found at Palmer-Pursuit

Other quality regs are the Air America brand regulators, such as the Vigilante. Although I don?t have any personal experience with this brand, a lot of people have told me many positive things about them.

How many shots can I expect?
The most common way of measuring shots per tank is taking the C.I., or Cubic Inch specification, and multiplying it by 10 for 3000psi rated tanks, 15 for 4500psi rated tanks, and 17 for 5000psi rated tanks. For example; you could expect 680 shots from a 68ci 3000psi tanks. 68ci x 10 = 680 shots.

You can pay up to $500 or a nitro/hpa tank. But the most likely one for ppl to get is 68/4500psi or 88/4500psi.

~Fourth~

Done by my/self

How Many Shots For Hap Tank's

Here is a list Of how many shots you can get out of the tanks of these sizes.

48/3000 - 480 shots
68/3000 - 680 shots
88/3000 - 880 shots
96/3000 - 960 shots
110/3000 - 1100 shots
114/3000 - 1140 shots

48/4500 - 720 shots
68/4500 - 1020 shots
88/4500 - 1320 shots
96/4500 - 1440 shots
110/4500 - 1650 shots
114/4500 - 1710 shots

Co2 Shots   

9oz- 300 shots
12oz- 500 shots
14oz- 650 shots
16oz- 800 shots
20oz-1200 shots

24oz- 1400 to 1600 shots  

                                                                                    

~5th~

Dont Rember who did it.

A little more about Co2 and Hpa

First off I want to say that Nitro, N2, and HPA are pretty much the same thing. The air we breathe is about 70% nitrogen. N2 is just the Chemical name for Nitrogen. HPA is the same thing we breathe. Just compressed. Also what SCUBA Divers and Fire Fighters breathe (obviously in a tank). For the sport of paint ball these gasses are the same.

Co2 is a little cheper to refill and the tanks are cheaper, but Nitro (HPA) tanks are expensive. Nitro (HPA) is ALOT more consistant, than Co2. It will help to use a Antisiphon Tube with Co2, but Nitro (HPA) doesnot need it.

In a Co2 tank (when its full) there is about 30% (+ or - 2%) liquid. The reason why there is liquid is beacuse the Co2 is under so much pressure (about 1800 psi) that it forms a liquid.

An anti siphon tube is bent, so it sucks up the gas on top of the tank. A siphon tube is bent down so it sucks up the liquid. Amost all modern guns  would bennifit from an anti siphon tube. SOME of the older Tippmans (I belive the SMG 60 and 68?) need siphon tubes.

When Nitro is in the full tank, it is a gas, ALWAYS a gas. Never a solid or liquid. And it is under 3000 to 5000 psi.

You should NEVER fill Co2 in a Nitro tank! most likley it will explode. 

~Fainlly~

Done by Krl15

Filling Own Co2 Tank And Buying own Filling Staion

I do suggest that you read up on the topic, and do a couple of fills under the guidance of someone who has experience in filling CO2 tanks.

Here is some reading, and some Links, to get you started.

 Re: CO2 Fill Stations:

Bulk CO2 tanks can be obtained through most Welding Supply companies as well as Soft Drink Fountain Supply Companies. In addition to the Bulk Tank, you will also need a Fill Station Adapter, and a Hanging Fish Scale.

www.countypaintball.com will have a fill station adapter.     www.888paintball.com as well as others, will all have them, too. I strongly recommend that you get a MUFFLER for the discharge, too.

I would also strongly suggest that you get the Deluxe Fill Station, instead of the Standard version. The few extra dollars will be well spent, and appreciated, later!

The Standard Fill Station will have just one Ball Valve on it. To perform a Dump, and Fill, the Bulk TANK Valve AND the Fill Station Dump Valve must be used. The Bulk Tank Valve is a pain in the neck to use.

In order to fill up a Gun Tank, the Gun Tank must be chilled. The Physics of CO2 are such that the pressure of CO2 is directly related to temperature....

Failure to freeze the tank before you fill it will result in the tank getting about 853 PSI of gas (70 Degrees F), and very little liquid into the tank. This pressure is dependent on the temperature of the Bulk Tank.

In order to get the tank filled with the correct amount of CO2, 34% of the tank must be filled with liquid CO2.

If you try to fill a warm tank, the CO2 will become a gas as soon as it enters the tank. When the pressure of the tank reaches the pressure of the Bulk Tank, the tank cannot be filled up anymore. The two tanks will be at a pressure equilibrium, so the filling process stops.

If the tank reaches Bulk Tank pressure, but does not have any liquid in it, you will have a VERY short fill. In order to completely fill a Gun Tank, it must be chilled. One way to do this is to freeze the gun tank in a freezer.

Another way to chill a tank is to first DUMP any remaining CO2 from the Gun Tank. Next some CO2 is put into the Gun Tank. The Gun Tank is then DUMPED, again. The Gun Tank should now be very cold. Finally, the very cold Gun Tank is filled up with CO2. THIS method is the usual way to chill a Gun Tank.

A Bulk Tank Valve has to be screwed open and closed. A BALL Valve opens, and closes, with just a 1/4 turn of a lever. The Bulk Tank Valve is also very hard to manipulate, if your Bulk Tank has to be used while it is upside down.

Any Bulk Tank that does not have a SIPHON Tube, (Yes, a SIPHON tube, NOT an Anti-Siphon tube) must be used upside down to fill up a Gun Tank.

The Deluxe Fill Station will have TWO Ball Valves. These valves are easy to operate, due to their 1/4 turn of a lever for full on-full off. The second valve that is included with the Deluxe Fill Station, saves you from having to manipulate the Bulk Tank Valve during the filling process.

The Deluxe Fill Station will be much easier to use on any Bulk Tank that has to be used while it is upside down. It is much easier to throw a lever on a Ball Valve, than it is to turn a knob on a valve, that is mounted onto an upside down Bulk Tank.

I also suggest that a Muffler be used on your Dump Exhaust pipe. A good Muffler will only cost about $20.00 at 888 PaintBall. A Muffler will REALLY make a NICE difference during a "Dump".

If you do not use a Muffler, you should be using ear plugs when you "Dump" a tank. Anyone in the area of a "Dump", including your pets, needs to be protected from the High Frequency noise of the "Dump".

The Muffler that I have from 888 PaintBall is an "ATO Muffler", model #MO2, by Allied Witan Company, in Cleveland, Ohio. I THINK that I have seen this same muffler at National PaintBall, too.

It works VERY well, and does not restrict the "Dump" process. As is the case with any good Muffler, it needs to do two things. 1: Make things quiet. 2: Flow a lot of Gas quickly..... The ATO Muffler does both, very well.

A small muffler will have problems meeting BOTH of the above requirements. I have seen a muffler that is much smaller than the ATO... I would be surprised if it works very well on BOTH requirements

Before you start doing your own fills, you should learn how to do it safely. In order to do it safely, you will need a "Hanging Fish Scale" to weigh your tanks as you fill them up.

These electronic scales can be "Zeroed" with your Gun Tank hanging on the scale. Then, when you open the Fill Valve, you can watch the weight of the CO2 that goes into the tank.

In order to learn how to properly and safely fill CO2 tanks, search the Web for a couple of sites, that will explain the procedure.

This site, 
www.ottersccustoms.com/filling.html , is just one of MANY Informational PaintBall Web Sites out there. Go browse this site. Find more sites like it. Browse those, too.

+++++++++++++++++++++

If you do NOT have a SYPHON Tube installed into your Bulk Tank, you will have to INVERT your Bulk Tank when you use it to fill up Gun Tanks. NOTE: A SYPHON Tube is NOT the same as an ANTI-Syphon Tube.

Inverting a tank does pose a safety issue that MUST be addressed. Dropping a tank on its valve, or even resting a tank on its valve, would be disastrous. This should NEVER be done.

However, on a small tank, there IS a safe way to invert the tank.

Here is a system to hold your tank upside down... Limit it to 20 pound tanks. If you have a bigger tank, use a Syphon Tube...

Attempting to flip big, heavy tanks, can be dangerous. Great Bodily Harm, or Death, could result from mishandling a tank.

Get a 2"X8" board that is 24-30 inches long. 3/4" thick plywood will also work... As would a nice piece of aluminum Channel, or aluminum I.

Get a large "U" Bolt, with at least 2-1/2" between the legs. The length of the "U" Bolt will have to be about 8". The diameter of the rod that makes the bolt should be about 1/2" diameter. An automotive axle/leaf spring "U" Bolt, or a Square "U" Bolt works well. (Hardware Store, or Auto Parts Store)

Get a large pair of heavy metal Shelf Brackets. (Hardware Store)

Mount the "U" Bolt about 8" from one end. The tank neck will drop into this "U"  and the "U" will keep the inverted tank from slipping down the board.

The "U" Bolt will have nuts on BOTH sides of the board, with large flat washers. The nuts will be tightened towards each other, to squeeze the board. This will make the "U" bolt stick out from the board, in a rigid manner.

The "U" Bolt needs to stick out far enough from the face of the board to allow the tank valve to slip through the "U" Bolt, with the tank laying on the board.

Cut off any excess portion of the "U" Bolts that sticks out past the nuts, on the back side of the board.

Mount the heavy duty Shelf Brackets on the same end as the "U" Bolt, so that they act as a base for the board, so that it will stand up with the tank mounted to the board.

Slip the tank into the "U" Bolt, and strap the tank to the board.

The tank can now be used upside down, or right side up. The tank can also be laid down on its side in your car, and it will be less likely to roll around.

Use your imagination. This system can be gussied up to be nice. It can also be left as is, and will be nasty looking, but functional. 

Possible upgrades could include a system to hang it on a wall. An arm could also be installed to act as a hanger for the Fish Scale. The feet could be removable, or folding.

The sky is the limit. Heck, you could probably even paint it!

I have seen several other ideas for this, too. One of them involved a section of very heavy, large diameter plastic pipe. Such pipe is used for Water Mains, and Sewer Mains. This pipe was about 24-30 inches long.

Two bolts were inserted through the pipe, parallel to each other. They were spaced so that they would straddle the tank valve. They were located about 10 inches from one end of the pipe. This end of the pipe would be the Tank Valve End of the pipe.

An access hole was then cut out with a large hole saw on the Valve End of the pipe. This large hole is to provide access to the tank valve, and to allow the Fill Station Adapter to exit the pipe, through the side of the pipe.

The pipe was long enough to extend past the valve, and the Fill Station Adapter. The portion of the pipe that extended past the Access Hole, provided a base for the pipe, with the inverted tank inside, to stand upright. Again, such a system should be limited to the smaller tanks.

HERC likes to lay a dolly down. He then straps a Bulk Tank onto the dolly. When he stands the dolly up, the tank is inverted. The dolly also makes it easy to move the tank around, and to load and transport the tank out to the Field.

A specially modified dolly, perhaps a modified Appliance Dolly, could easily and safely handle a 100 pound CO2 Bulk Tank. For that matter, such a dolly could possibly handle as many as two 100 pound tanks.

+++++++++++++++++++

CO2 Pumps: "Topping Off" Partially Full CO2 Tanks...

It is possible to top off partially full CO2 tanks. However, in order to do it safely, you will need a couple of things. You will also need to KNOW a couple of things.

First of all, you will need to know exactly how much your tank weighs, when it is completely EMPTY. Otherwise, you will not know what it should weigh, when it is full.

Second, you will need a scale, so that you can accurately weigh the tank, so that you will know when it is full.

So far, it sounds pretty easy...... Here comes the tough part......

In order to be ABLE to get any significant amount of CO2, to actually go into a partially full tank, you will either need to FREEZE your tank, or you will need a CO2 PUMP. I THINK, that Nitro Duck sells CO2 Pumps for about $450.

The CO2 Pump is in ADDITION to your Fill Station, and Bulk Tank.

See
www.nitroduck.com  

++++++++++++++++++++++

If the tank is cold enough, you can fill it in any orientation. The trick is to get the tank cold enough!

To chill a tank, you can put the tank into a freezer, or you can vent CO2 from the tank. As we all know, when you use CO2, things get cold. Quickly venting CO2 GAS from a tank, will chill the tank.

The problems with Syphon Tubes and Anti-Syphon Tubes, occur during the VENTING process. The VENTING process is how most tanks will be chilled. If the VENTING process is not done correctly, the tank will not be chilled enough, to allow it to be fully filled.

If a tank has a tube in it, you do NOT want liquid CO2 to be able to exit the tank, via the tube. Any liquid that leaves the tank via the tube, will not cause any chilling of the tank.

Instead, the liquid that leaves the tank via the tube, will chill the Fill Station and the Fill Station Muffler. This chilling will be wasted chilling. We need a frozen TANK, not a frozen Fill Station and Fill Station Muffler!

When you VENT a tank that has a SYPHON Tube in it, make sure that the tank valve is tilted down by about 30 degrees or more, during the VENTING process. This will keep the tip of the SYPHON Tube, above the level of the liquid CO2, that is inside of the tank. This way, the tank will gain the maximum amount of cooling, from the CO2.

When you vent a tank that has an ANTI-Syphon Tube in it, you must also make sure that the TIP of the ANTI-Syphon Tube, is above the liquid CO2 in the tank. Remember that a FULL CO2 tank, will only contain about 34% liquid CO2, by VOLUME.

If the Anti-Syphon Tube does not extend below the halfway point of the tank, as is common with tanks that are long, the tank may be vented in a vertical position. If you do not know how far the tube goes down inside of the tank, you will need to do things a bit differently.

In any situation where the ANTI-Syphon Tube length is not known, it is best to vent the tank while it is laying down. Make sure that the "UP" marks for the tube's tip, are facing "UP". This will ensure that the tip of the ANTI-Syphon Tube, is above the level of the liquid, that is inside of the tank.

Once the tank is sufficiently chilled, it will be easy to fill it up, regardless of the orientation of the tank. Orienting the tank correctly, while it is being VENTED, will ensure that the tank gets sufficiently chilled.

+++++++++++++++++

 How Many Fills?

If you have a 20 ounce tank, and you put in 18 ounces, after you used 6 ounces to chill the tank, that comes out to a total of 24 ounces to fill one 20 ounce tank.

There are 16 ounces in a pound. Therefore, 24 ounces is 1.5 pounds.

You will only be able to utilize 2/3 of the CO2 that is in your 20 pound Bulk Tank. Nitro Duck uses the 2/3 number in their CO2 Pump Promotional Information, if I remember correctly. Once all of the liquid CO2 is out of your Bulk Tank, you cannot put any liquid CO2 into your Gun Tank.

About 1/3 (By WEIGHT) of the CO2 that is in the Bulk Tank, will be gas, not liquid. Therefore, it is not available for making a good and complete fill of your Gun Tanks.

That means that only about 13.2 pounds is available to you, for filling your Gun Tanks.

13.2 pounds divided by 1.5 pounds = 8.8 fills......

If you are filling to 20 ounces, and use 10 ounces to chill the tank, that is 30 ounces total, which is 1.88 pounds to fill one 20 ounce tank.

Now you will only get 7 fills from a 20 pound tank.

This is the reason why a lot of guys freeze their tanks in the freezer, and do not use CO2 Dumping, to chill the tanks!

 

Upgrade Compatibility

 

Done By Tippmann Tech

 

Low Pressure Kit + Collapsible Stock- Will not work due to the rear cocking mechanism on the LP kit must be utilized, and the stock would prevent the gun from cycling, and being cocked.  A side cocking device cannot be used with the LP kit because the spring is so light, and it runs right where the gun would be cocked (if you could make it side cocking) So, you would have to come up with a completely different design for the spring.

 

Ebolt+ Collapsible Stock- Will not work due to the Ebolt hammer extending out of the back of the gun, there is nothing to hold the Stock on.

 

Low Pressure Kit + Ebolt- Will work efficient, consistent, produces less recoil, and is very reliable.

 

R/T + Low Pressure Kit - Will work, but most of the time, you'll need a bigger hose and fitting in between the power tube and the flow control. (Due to the air restriction when using nitrogen or compressed air) If you have the new style flow control (w/ set screw) you'll need the older style flow control (w/ adjuster knob) to be able to accept the higher flowing line. Call our sales dept, and you can order the parts from them directly.

 

R/T + Ebolt- Will not work. The two systems cannot be installed on the same gun due to fitting issues.

 

R/T + Collapsible Stock- Will work just fine.

 

Rocket Cock + LP kit- Will not work. Again, the rear cocking mechanism must be utilized.

 

RVA + Stocks- Will not work. Since they go in the same area, the two cannot occupy the same area at the same time.

 

98 Flatline- Will only work on the 98 Custom and M98, and is not compatible with any other gun.

 

A-5 Egrip- Will only work on the A-5, and is not compatible with any other gun.

 

A-5 Flatline- Will only work on the A-5, and is not compatible with any other gun.

 

A-5 R/T + A-5 Egrip- Will not work at the same time. One must be removed, before the other can be installed.

 

Ebolt- Will only work in the 98 Custom, or it can be retro fitted to the M98 (machined by us only) The Ebolt will not work in any other gun other than the 98 Custom, and a retrofitted M98

 

Flatline + RT- Will work just fine, and can keep up with high rates of fire

Response trigger (r/t)

done By~ The Kamakze One from Other tippy fourm.

-This is an upgrade available for the 98 custom and the A-5. If you have a normal 98 you might need some machining done to the body to get the response trigger to fit. The Tippmann proshop can retro fit your 98 to accept a r/t trigger if you send your gun into them. I believe some people can install the r/t on a tippmann pro/carbine and I have personally seen a carbine with a response trigger fire before. Although I don't think any company does this modification for the public.

-The response trigger boosts you rate of fire to a full-auto like statis but is still technically semi-auto. A response trigger uses the excess gas, that would normally just disapate into the atmosphere after firing, to force the trigger forward. If you hold the trigger with just the right amount of force (known as finding the "sweet spot" the response trigger will actually bounce producing a full-auto like effect that is still semi auto due to it still only firing one shot per trigger pull. 



E-Bolt

done By~ The Kamakze One from Other tippy fourm.

-The E-bolt kit is an upgrade for the 98 and 98c only. It may, like the r/t, have to be retro-fitted to a 98 because of the difference between the the recievers.

-The E-bolt is similar to the A-5 e-grip but it replaces the rear bolt with a pneumatic bolt.

-Firing modes for the E-bolt are:

Response: fires on the pull and the release of the trigger
Full Auto: 4 to 13 shots per second
Turbo: Semi Auto, goes to response mode if trigger speed is more than 5 times per sec.
Burst Mode 1: 3 shot bursts.
Burst Mode 2: 6 shot bursts

-The E-bolt cannot be used with a car stock, rear velocity adjuster, or any sort of rear cocking system, because the bolt operater thingy takes the place of the end cap of a 98 so they cannot be used with an e-bolt.

-In adition to the e-conversion, it also comes with a reg, which acts not only as a high pressure reg(the one for the normall input pressure) but a low pressure reg as well(the one that controlls the pressure behind the hammer) the E-bolt is very similar in design to the bko and the impulse, as it uses a single selinoid and a spring return ram.


 Markers
done By~ The Kamakze One from Other tippy fourm.
-Paintball markers, or guns, come in 5 styles:

Pump guns-
In order to fire you must thingy the gun via a pump arm. Then to fire you pull the trigger and a paintball is shot. In order to fire again, you must pump the marker again. Some pump guns are known as stock class guns. These are limited to 10 round loaders that are parrelell to the guns main body. They also must be pump action they must use a 12 gram Co2 cartridge. This kind of play is very challenging and many people choose to play stock class so they can get better, or they jsut like the challange of it.

Semi-automatic
-aka semi's. In order to fire you must first thingy the gun usually by pulling a knob back. When you pull the trigger a paintball is shot and the marker rethingys itself. These will fire as fast as you can pull the trigger. These make up the majority of paintball guns today.

Electros-
These guns are electronically controlled. Most electronic guns have semi-auto fire, and some have full auto, as well as other select fire capabilities. Tournament will not let you use guns set to fully automatic, which means when you pull the trigger the gun will fire many paintballs until you let go of the trigger, because of safty reasons. These are generally more expensive but they work very nicely.

Hybrids-
Guns that can be run either as electro's or as semi's, the only one I know of is the E-mag which has a switch the lets you run the gun 100% mechanically like a normal automag or with the electronic controls. (you may want mechanical operation if I field doesn't like electros, your friend whine about it, or you batteries need to be charged.

Sidearms-
these guns are small, pistol size guns. They get their name from where they are carried....your side. They work as a back up incase your primary paintball gun doesn't work or you just need to use it for a specific purpose. They mostly use 12 gram Co2 tanks and 10 round loaders or magazines. They come in pump and semi-auto. A growing number of differen't side arms are being made. I have used a PT Extreme and personnally feel that they are not very accurate and a waste of money. I own a Sheridan PGP, which is a pump pistol that runs on 12 grams. While it is only a pump, the PGP is very accurate and reliable. It get a lot more shots per 12 gram then a semi auto does.

-No gun is better than another, Some might be more accuarte than others but that is accomplesed by barrel and paint match. Some may be faster than others, but paintball is (usually) one shot one kill. The marker is nothing more than an object used to propell a paintball at a target and mark that target. The looks of the gun have no effct of a guns preformance, other than maybe reducing some weight, looks are nothing more than a player prefrence. Some of the best players usually have stuff like a slight upgraded marker that fits their needs and thei style of play. Shoot what you want, see what you like and decide on how cost-affective a purchase of a marker will be.
A general view of many people that can also be summed up as, "It's not how good your gun is, It's how good the player/operator of the gun is." My field owner sais it best when he tells this to new players asking about guns and their abilities, "I have never seen a gun itself win a game. A better gun will not make you win. A better gun will only take a good player and make him better."

-What is probably the most important factor in a paintball gun is the feel, if its not comfortable to you, your not going to be doing well. the best idea is to get the gun that feels best.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NotDaveEllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 February 2004 at 1:16am
So You Want To Buy A Tank


So you finally want to give up the CO2 tank and drop some cash on a Compressed Air Tank. Sounds like a plan. Hopefully the following FAQ will help guide you in the decision making process.

Tank Manufacturers

There are only three companies that make tanks for Paintball.

Carleton CylindersCarelton
Luxfer Cylinders Luxfer
Structural Composite Industries SCI

These three companyís supply the tanks for the various manufacturers, then the manufacturers just put on their own regulator.


Tank Distributors/Sellers

Below is a list of people that slap on their regulators and sell them to you.

ACI Nitrogen Systems-Make the Bulldog I,II,III nitro tanks. ACI

**Air America-Make the Meílee,Raptor-Rex,Apocalaypse,Armageddon tanks Air America

Airgun Designs-Make the Flatline tank
AGD

Centerflag-Make Dynaflow and Hyperflow tanks, and others,limited sizes and kinds.
Centerflag


*Crossfire-Make a multitude of tanks that come in every size and shape.
Crossfire

DYE-Make the Throttle Air System. Come in a limited number of sizes
DYE

EVIL-Make the Scion tank.
EVIL

Java-A division of Kingman, make the Java tank in various sizes.
Kingman

PBN2-Distributed by ActionVillage.com. Various sizes.
PBN2

*PMI-Pure Energy Tanks, made by PMI. Come in various sizes.
PMI

Smart Parts-Make the Max-Flo tank. Various sizes
Smart Parts

System X-Make tanks of various sizes. Do not recommend..
System X

WGP-Worrgas tanks. Limited sizes.
WGP

WDP-Angel AIR tanks
WDP

*Denotes Recommendation


Types of Regulators/Threading Types

Tanks will either come in two different kinds of mounting systems.

First is the standard threads that are on screw in tanks, these are the same threads as CO2 tanks have, so if you can screw a CO2 tank into the ASA, you can screw a Screw-In Nitro system into that ASA.
The second type is mounted, which are mounted on some sort of Dovetail and donít screw on.


High Pressure/Low Pressure
Tanks that are not adjustable will either come High Pressure or Low Pressure output.
High Pressure is usually set around 850 PSI
Low Pressure is usually set around 450 PSI


Types of Tanks
Tanks will either be Steel or Fiber Wrapped. Fiberwrapped tanks are much lighter than steel tanks, and cost more. Steel tanks generally cost less money and are heavier than a Fiber Wrapped tank. Fiber wrapped tanks require a cover, and need to be treated with more care.


Hydro Date
Every tank that comes from one of the above makers will have a Hydrostatic Test date on it, as by regulation. Some older tanks have 3 year old Hydro dates. That means the tank has to get hydro tested ever three years. For example, if the test date on a tank. Say the hydro tank is 11-AA-01 the tank needs to be hydroed before the first day of November,2004. On a 5 year tank it would be November, 2006.


Shots Per Tank
3000 psi tanks get about 10 shots per ci (cubic inch). for example a 45ci tank gets about 450 shots per fill.

4500 psi tanks get about 15 shots per ci. a 45ci tank will get about 675 shots per fill.

5000 get about 20 shots per ci. A 45 ci tank will get about 900 shots per fill.


Tank Care
If you get a Fiber Wrapped tank a decent cover is a MUST. It will protect your tank from scratches and dings, while making it last longer. The less scratches and knicks your tanks get, the better for its life expectancy. Steel tanks do not require a cover, but one is nice because usually the cover will have rubber on the back to help the tank grip on your shoulder.



Personal Recommendation/Thoughts
I personally use and shoot an Air America tank, I wouldnít trade it in for the world. Lifetime warranty, which means if something is wrong with your tank youíll only have to pay for parts. I live 20 minutes from them, so itís a huge plus. I once walked in to get a simple fix (Piece of debris got into tank) and not only did they remove the debris, they went above and beyond and took apart the regulator and gave it a full cleaning and lube job. Excellent service and wonderful people.

And whatever you doÖ..stay away from Angel AIR..its overrated.



Also be sure to check out MILKMAN'S Tank FAQ in the UberFAQ. This is just a basic guide for buying a tank.
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ownage View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ownage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2004 at 9:57pm
tippmann 98 custom silver
ebolt, lp kit, halo b, lapco powerfeed, 8 inch bigshot ,boblong reg
red agd warp feed with intellifeed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boarder2k7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 March 2004 at 10:49am
To fix that annoying hopper rattle that seems to plague most 98s.
You need Black electrical tape   Styrofoam

1. Take a small block of styrofoam (approx 1/8in. thick by 1/4in.
2.Place this piece of foam onto a strip of black electrical tape.
3. Firmly place the tape with the styrofoam centered over where the elbow touches the side of the gun. *It will stick out farther than it looks like it should, this is okay*
4. Replace the elbow and latch it shut which will crush the styrofoam down to size to fit.
5. Open the elbow back up and place another strip of electrical tape over the other tape and foam. Make sure that it extends out both sides when the elbow is closed.
6. With the elbow closed CAREFULLY take a sharp knife and cut off the excess. Be carefull not to push too hard or you will cut the paint on the side of the gun.

If it doesn't come out well the first time try it again.. sometimes its hard to get the first time you do it.

I will try to get step-by-step pictures up soon...


Tippmann 98c with an E-bolt and custom blade trigger...took me two hours in the shop with a $3000 milling machine..but it was worth it for the 1/16in. and under one ounce trigger pull..... Yeah.... It ROCKS!!!!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snakeguy282 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 March 2004 at 9:48am
All about the A-5


The stock A-5:
The stock A-5 is ok. It comes with all the parts necessary to take most of it apart quickly, although if you need to take it apart really fast, some of the parts have screws to take them apart. It comes with a barrel, which has holes around the front either for looks or silencing. The stock barrel doesnít shoot very far, like many of the other stock barrels. The screws that you really should unscrew are on the cyclone feed system. Those rust really quickly, I donít whether this affects it at all or just looks bad. I would recommend the stainless steel bolts for the stock a-5. However they are silver and shiny and might give you away on the field. But they are worth it if you paint the black. You can get them at countypaintball.com

Taking care of the A-5:
You should oil your gun frequently. At least once every two weeks, AT LEAST. Every time you oil your gun, you have to take the two back bolts off and pull on the end cap. But do this carefully; the spring that is concealed there for the cocking might pop out if you donít do it carefully. You should also put some of the oil(like two drops) where you put the Co2. You never want to take the gun completely apart unless youíve memorized how to put it back together. I made that mistake once, it took me two days to learn how to put it back together.

Field playing with the A-5:
If you have the right equipment, playing with the A-5 in paintball is really fun. I wouldnít really want to go out with a stock A-5. A good setup Iíve been thinking is a remote, a harness, Lapco bigshot or some other barrel, an expansion chamber/ drop forward, and an E-grip. This is just one setup, you donít have to get it. I also like the capabilities of the
A-5. As mentioned earlier, it is easy to take apart. This really helps when you need to oil, or clean your gun for some reason. Although I donít think this is a big advantage on any gun because of all the little pieces that could get lost, and youíd never get them back. Over all, the A-5 is a good field playing gun.

Accessories:
The A-5 is obviously the newest tippmann and has the most accessories than any other tippmann gun for those who love stuff on their gun. It has many barrels, scopes, barely any hoppers(I wouldnít be surprised if there wasnít even one), a lot of drop forwards, and replacement parts.

Shooting Capabilities:
As everyone knows, the A-5 is very fast. Unless you pull the trigger 30 times a second, I think it will work out. Itís this way because of the Cyclone feed system. If youíve heard that the A-5 is the gas drinker of the paintball guns, itís not. It only requires a small bit of Co2 to make it revolve. The automatic guns like E-MAG are, theyíre paintball eaters also. With an E-grip, you can shoot so fast. It is all made possible by the cyclone feed system.

FAQ:
Whatís wrong with my A-5, itís cyclone system isnít turning?- Man, this happened to me, I was concerned. Itís just a low tank donít worry.




I love my A-5, my only wish is that I had more money to buy stuff for it. Mine is still a stock A-5, but it runs fine. This is definitely better than any other tippmann gun. Especially the pro-carbine because of the trigger pull on it. I have a C02 set up, which is fine on the A-5. It is really fun to go out and play paintball with. Iíd give this tippmann gun a nine out of ten because of itís quality, accessories, and fun things about it. I hope this helped to answer all your questions!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaked588 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 March 2004 at 11:00pm

easier way to fix hopper wobble:

take off the feed elbow and stretch a standard tank o-ring around the bottom of it. thats it.  (this mod may need replacement every once in a while)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote speedballer1313 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 April 2004 at 1:32pm
    AUTOCOCKER UPGRADES
The Autococker is Made by Worr Games Products.
There are many parts on an Autococker that do many things. to see this, Look in the "which gun is best"
Forum, Go to the tread "great guns". Post #6 Is a complete breakdown of cockers by Simma Down!.
Now, For the upgrades.

BARRELS

The stock barrel on the 03' autococker is loud but pretty accurate. The 04' Autoccker barrels are ported and much more accurate.The newer Some barrels to look into are:

Dye Ultralite: It is made out of Aluminum which makes
The barrel very light. It is a very quiet 2 piece barrel and has pinpoint accuracy. It also comes in vareties of colors So they can match your gun easily.

Freak Kit: A supreme 2 piece barrel with 1 front, 1 back, and 8 inserts to match barrel to bore size. Comes in about every possible color you could think of.

Other Barrels To look into:
Dye Boomstick $120
J&J Ceramic $40
SP All American $75

BOLTS
The stock bolt is big and whenever it gets dirty it stiops working totally. To fix this problem, looking into a Delron Bolt would be a good investment.

Worr Games Bolts:
All Delrin Bolt:$40 Self lubricating, needs no o-rings to oil. Design is also smaller.

WorrBlade Delrin Bolt:$45 Same Self lubricating matrial as above, Is very light and has a o-ring to reduce Blowback.

Orr-acle Bolt: $60 Maximum air flow for air consistency, Contains internal Ball Detent.

If you do get a delrin bolt without an internal detent, A delron detent Will keep from weating a groove in the bolt.

NITRO/HPA
Cockers run much more consistent velocity and firing if you run it off nitro. It also quiets down the gun, The tanks last longer and the fills are cheaper. Getting nitro will reduce velocity jumps, which can be very pesky.

DROP FORWARD
If you are playing speedball, A drop forward is nessacary for comfort. A lot of the angles you need on opposing players will be assited by a drop forward.
A drop forward bring the tank down from under you arm to your chest.It helps you wrap around bunkers, etc.
There are many to choose from, Just pick one that is comfortable to you.
Most drop forwards cosr anywhere from $20-$35.

ELECTRONIC HOPPER
You will need an electronic hopper for your autococker.Even a stock autococker can get over 10 Bps.
Here are some good electronic hoppers:

VL Quantum Loader: $30, For the player on a budjet. 140 rd. Doesn't feed very fast. but is a big step from a gravity fed hopper.

12v Revolution:$50, 200 rd.Probably the best one to start with. Feeds up the 13 bps, a good loader.

Evolution 2: a step up from the revvy. 200 rd. Feeds up to 17 bps, wont be needed unless you have an electronic cocker, see the next upgrade.

There are more But those are all the VL hoppers, which by expeirence seem the best to me.

E-BLADE/WORRBLADE
These upgrades make your cocker electronic.
They are both relativily alike, But the worrblade gives you mroe than the E-blade.
The Worrblade is made by Worr Games products
The E-Blade is made by Planet Eclipse.

WORRBLADE-$450-$500,E-Blade Electronic Double finger trigger frame,Worr Pnuematics, Hammer that has the nyloc screw to lock down the lug so it doesnt loosen or tighten under high ROF, Worrblade Delrin bolt,Breech Sensor(eye)

EBLADE-$350-$400,E-blade electronic Blade trigger frame, Eclipse Pnuematics, Breech Sensor (eye)

These Upgrades increase your Rate of fire, The E-Blade is only limited by your firing speed and the quality of your autococker.. All Timing is done electronically, No more short-Stroking because the Firing cycle is done automatically. The breech Sensor Prevents the gun from chopping balls, also.

HINGE VS. SLIDER TRIGGERS(simma)
Sliding triggers were used before hinge triggers came around. Instead of having the trigger pull motion like a hinge, they actually slide straight back. The best upgrade for a slider frame is a roller sear that reduce friction and helps the trigger slide across the trigger plate.


PNUEMATICS
The Pnuematics is what bring the air to shoot the paintball in the first place. A new 3-Way will help this cycle.
There are many diffrent 3-ways to choose from.
Worr 3-ways:

CT-3 way: New way of timing, By inserting an allen wrech in the front of this 3-way. Works Best with WGP Hinge.

Orr-acle 3-way: Timing by hand or Allen Wrench, Is a CT3 with a Spooler Valve Preinstalled. The Spooler Allows you to time by turning it.

Regulators are what bring Your Air source into the     3-way, And you want one to have a good air flow.
Here Are Some Worr Regulators:

Black Magic Regulator: Provides a consistent flow rate, and is externally adjustable. Has custom milling for a lightweight custom upgrade.

Ergo Regulator: Same as Black Magic, Without the custom milling. IMO, More comfortable.

Palmer Stabalizer-$60, The best regulator as far as comfort and quality go. This is the inline regulator i use on my autococker.

If i missed something or you want to be included in the post, please PM me with what you think should be added.
Thanks,
Adam



Edited by speedballer1313
Retired from paintball. No cash, No time, And a girfriend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andy G. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 April 2004 at 11:05pm
Flatline FAQ


Here are some frequently asked questions about the flatline

if you have any other questions just PM me


* is it hard to install?

it is more complicated to install than a regular barrel, but not hard. it takes about a bag of paint to fine-tune it. once you have it sighted in, draw some reference marks on the barrel and barrel adapter, either by etching lines in or using a metallic sharpie. all set!

* Some people say that balls curve up?

look, heres a little math lesson

lets say the curve-up of the ball is +
gravity is -

+ plus a - = 0 or it "cancel out" giving you zero drop and zero curve-up.

lesson over


* Can I shot around corners?

in reality, no

turning your gun sideways will not give you a 90 degree shot. your shot will only curve a couple of inches.


* ballbreak!!! how do I clean it out??

there are different ways to clean it out:

1: taking the barrel off and clean it out thoroughly by soaking it in warm, soapy water. (this is a timely, but thorough way to clean out a ballbreak, do it at home)

2: pre-soaking cotton balls (hehe balls!) in alcohol and storing them in a zipbag. when you get a ball break load up a cotton ball into the breach and fire it. the cotton ball will push some of the paint out of the barrel, the alcohol will loosen up some of the paint. repeat this process until you feel satisfied your barrel is clean.

3: this ,I think, is the most effective way to do it.have a small spray bottle of alcohol handy. something around the size of your fist. first, run a four-disk squeegee through the ball. second, spray the alcohol a couple of times down the barrel. run the squeegee through again. squeaky clean!

* What kind of squeegee should I use?
use any four-squeegee that will allow you to run it through the breech.

* What kinda paint should I use?

ANY BRAND WILL WORK just as long as its not super fragile. remember tippmanns are high pressure guns.

of course the more expensive paint is a little better.

* Whats this I hear about flatline wearing out?

they say that after extended use the paintballs will polish the inside of your gun creating less friction= less rotation= loss of distance.

this might happen to some people. I donít I know if its true or not. Ive fired at least 3000 rounds and have had little problems with it. if this does happen, send it to tippmann and they will re-sandblast it for you no charge.

* Is it accurate?

the flatline gives the benefit of longer trajectory. at 150 feet it is pretty accurate. it also gives flat trajectory at this distance. at around 150+ feet gravity, and wind start affecting your gun, giving you less accuracy.

* Is it worth buying??

yes,

its up to you to make the decision, but if you do buy it and take the time to install it correctly I guarantee you will not regret it.

Thatís pretty much about it!

if you have any other questions, again, just PM me.Or if you want a faster response, you can E-mail me- yourfalseidol@yahoo.com



Edited by Andy G.
"my hands are shaking from fear,white from clutching my pride,
red from cutting you, and blue from telling lies."

IM- xyourfalseidolx
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Updated 6/23/04
This should be complete now. Velocity Adjustment Screw is now added. "W"
Additional Info which is located bottom of this thread.


Hopefully this helps a few of you guys.


The one on the left is a Low Head Black-Oxide Finish Screw.
These are heat treated for strength and are the ones that comes with your Tippmann 98 Custom.
The one on the right is an 18-8 Stainless Steel Screw and they offer excellent corrision resistance.

Notice the difference in head heights.
Low Head screws will be flush to your receivers, where as the 18-8 S.S. screws will be sticking out from your receivers a little under 1/8".

You can pick these up from your local hardware store (maybe), www.mcmaster.com, paintball stores or Tippmann themselves. Please note that you won't find these odd lengths. It's better to go long and cut to size (so that the screw thread end is flush to nut).

LOW HEAD BLACK OXIDE FINISH CHART:



Now these are the EXACT sizes that are on your Tippmann 98 Custom!
A) Low Head Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1 3/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
B) Low Head Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 21/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
C) Low Head Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
D) Button Head Hex Screw, #6-32 x 3/8" R.H., Use 3/16" Hex Key
E) Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 27/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
F) Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 1 3/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
G) "Inside Grip Panel", #10-32 Square Nut R.H.
H) 10-32 Hex Nut R.H.
I) Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 7/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
J) Button Head Hex Screw, 1/4"N.C. x 1" R.H., Use 5/16" Hex Key
K) 1/4" Standard Washer
L) 1/4" N.C. Square Nut R.H.
M) Button Head Screw, #8-32 x 1/4" R.H., Use Philips Head Screwdriver
W) 5/16"-24 x 1/2" Length Setscrew, Cup Point, Black Oxide Finish Or 18-8 S.S., Use 5/32 Hex Key

You're probably asking "Why the odd lengths?". Yeah, that's what I thought too. But let's say for the smaller receiver screws...If you use 5/8" in length, it's too short. If you use 3/4", it's too long (the threads stick out too much from the nut). Here's what I did: I bought a bunch of #10-32 x 1 1/4" and cut them to length using a boltbuster ( www.boltbuster.com ). Or you can use the bolt cutter on a wire stripper if you're manly. As for the bottom bolts that hold your tank adapter or drop forward, I recommend using a #10-32 x 1" for both. It works fine.

18-8 STAINLESS STEEL CHART
The reason why I am showing this chart is because the Hex Key (or Allen Wrench) that you use are A DIFFERENT SIZE than the one that you use on the Low Head Black Oxide Screw.
You can buy them again at a local hardware store (maybe), paintball stores, www.mcmaster.com OR through eBay. Again, buy them long and cut to size.



N) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 21/32" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key
O) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1 3/32" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key
P) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key
Q) Button Head Screw, #6-32 x 3/8" R.H., Use Philips Screwdriver
R) "Inside Grip Panel", #10-32 Square Nut R.H.
S) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key
T) 10-32 Hex Nut R.H.
U) "Not Shown", Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 7/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
V) Button Head Hex Screw, #8-32 x 1/4" R.H., Use 3/32" Hex Key
W) 5/16"-24 x 1/2" Length Setscrew, Cup Point, Black Oxide Finish Or 18-8 S.S., Use 5/32 Hex Key

The 1/4" Screw, Nut & Washer on the feed elbow are the same spec's as the Black Oxide Finish.

ADDITIONAL INFO
I would like to add that the following is ALSO available:
-Low Head Black Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel
-Standard Head Black Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel
But be aware, there may not be all the sizes available for you to fit your 98C if you are sticking to a certain class. For instance, I don't think you can find anything longer than 1" in a 10-32 Standard Socket Cap Screw in Black Oxide Finish 18-8 Stainless Steel (To fit for "A" or "O").



Edited by <Ridd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HeadHunter59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2004 at 11:25am

Your paintball marker needs maintenance and adjustments. It is not a toy!



~1~ The first step in caring for your gun is to read the manual. You should be able to identify each part of your marker by name and functionality. You should be comfortable with removing the bolt assembly of the paintball marker to do a proper cleaning. CAUTION: never use anything but approved lubricants/oil on your paintball gun. Petroleum-based lubricants can swell the o-rings and cause problems.

At least once a month, or before playing, do this little maintenance routine: drop 4 to 8 drops of oil in the ASA adapter (the piece where your CO2 or nitrogen bottle fits.) Remove the barrel, attach your gas cylinder and fire about 30 shots of air through the marker. This spreads the oil throughout the entire marker, without getting any in the barrel.

After each day's play, you should strip your paintball marker down and clean out any bits of paint from broken paintballs.  After removing any paint, oil the internals. You don't have to "coat" a part, 1 to 2 drops is usually sufficient. Then use your finger to spread the oil all over the part. Make sure to oil the bolt and striker/hammer pretty heavily, especially where there is considerable wear.

~2~ To keep your CO2 tank o-ring from being destroyed during removal of the CO2 cylinder try unscrewing your cylinder about 1/2 to 3/4 turn (which disengages the pin on the CO2 cylinder valve) and firing your marker until all pressure is relieved. This will remove the pressure that may damage your o-ring.

~3~ Jammed bolts are common. Bolts jam when a piece broken paintball wedges between the bolt and the inside of the paintball marker body. The key to popping it loose is to basically pull or push it hard enough to break it free. To soften the paint, you can flush that area with hot water. With markers like the Autococker you can just grab the back-block and pull as hard as you can to pop it loose. The key with other markers is to push it loose from the front with a stick-type squeegee. I strongly recommend taking off the barrel. If you have broken shell jamming your bolt, chances are you have a broken shell and paint in your barrel as well. The last thing you want to do is shove more of that junk back into the bolt. Once youíve popped your bolt loose, strip the bolt, and squeegee your receiver and barrel out. Squeegee cleaning clears all the garbage out and helps ensure you wonít jam again. If your bolt keeps jamming up despite squeegee cleaning, itís time to check your feed tube, elbow, and hopper. Chances are that you broke a ball up in the hopper or chopped one and sprayed paint and shell fragments up into your feed tube. If you break a ball inside your hopper, dump your paint and clean out the hopper/loader with a clean cloth.

~4~ If your marker is breaking balls. A: turn down your rate of fire. B: check your ball detent as it should be only finger tight. C: make sure your velocity in no greater than 300 fps. D: keep your loader/hopper full. E: if you recently upgraded to a new barrel or bolt, try using the original parts again. F: check your paint, if it is misshapen, old, swollen, etc. that may be your problem. G: make sure your barrel is clean!

~5~ Is your gun sputtering? The o-rings may be worn or dry; therefore, try replacing or lubricating the o-rings. Maybe you gun needs oiled. You can take out the bolt, take off the barrel and then run a good quality squeegee through the chamber (make sure no fibers are left from the squeegee). Now that you have the bolt out, rinse it in hot water, dry it off completely, oil the bolt, and oil the o-rings and the hammer. Finally, if you shoot too fast and too long with CO2 your marker begins to freeze up (this is bad for the o-rings) and CO2 begins to leak around the o-ring causing it to sputter. This condition creates a reduction in pressure and if the pressure gets low enough, the bolt will not be pushed back far enough to cock. Therefor you may need to get an X-chamber or palmer Stabilizer. Or if you want even better performance get HPA.

~6~ Should you need additional instructions or help, check out the manufacturerís web site for technical tips. Generally, a toll-free telephone number is provided in case you need to speak with someone directly. Remember, if the gun is going work properly, it needs to be used properly. Just like a car, or a motorcycle, or even a bicycle, it is a machine, and it does require maintenance.

~7~ Read the manual, buy some oil, learn how to properly clean the barrel and your gun with a squeegee and oil/water/ect.. If you canít figure something out, remember that you have technical support available through the manufacturer or Go to some online Forum most people are rather helpful. It Doesnít have to be a forum that your gun is (Spyder, Angle, Tippmann, ect.) all forums well help you best they can. And donít whine to mom and dad about the gun being defective if you are not willing to invest your time to learn about the gun.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FlatlinePwnage Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 July 2004 at 11:15am
i'd have to go with g-unit
Tippmann 98 Custom
Flatline Barrel System
Pistol (james bond style)

and i can still shoot further than ur 1500$ guns
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Master Shake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2004 at 8:21pm
First off, I have a 14" GTA sniper Barrel, and my gun is more accurate than a person with an 18" Boomstick, and has about the same range as a Flatline. Belive me, I know. Second, the 98 Flatline chops alot of balls, wheras with the A-5 Flatline, they put more time and effort into it. But, the Flatlines are meant for range, and not as much accuracy. If you want an accurate barrel, get the GTA 14". Range is good, but it doesn't matter if you can't hit anything.
-----NEW GUN-----
CLASS Lasoya SignatureDark Angel IR3
14" Dye Ultralite
Shocktech Dropforward
Shocktech On/Off
VL Egg
(2)47/3000 Nitro Tank
Styla Raptor Trigger
A-4 Reg
2 Spike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LordJovian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2004 at 2:45pm

What order should I upgrade???

Well, here's a good plan for starters:

1. The barrel, the barrel, the barrel. Although it's not the most necessary, it's the most common first upgrade. This upgrade procedure is so common that paintball marker manufacturers (like Tippmann) don't even waste time selling a gun with a "good" stock barrel. A "pipe with threads and holes" is a good description of what stock barrels are, so the first upgrade should be/ usually is a barrel. For range, a Flatline is the only way. It's got a pretty decent accuracy, but it's pricey. Other good choices (cheapest to expensive) are the J&J Ceramic, Lapco Bigshot, Smart Parts All-American, Dye Ultralight, Freak Barrel Kit. There are many many more, but these are a few favorites among the forum users.

Here's where it gets kinda shaky- depending on what type of air you have, your route will be different. Nitro users, skip down to the Nitro Upgrade path. CO2 or those doing nitrogen/ HPA later, proceed as planned.

NOTE: CO2 is stored in tanks (yours and filling stations) as a liquid. Now realize when you exhale, that's CO2 (carbon dioxide). In order to store that gas and pressurize it effectively, they have to make it a liquid. To do that, they freeze it so the gas molecules are moving so slow they can't "fly" through the air. And it's very very very cold. What happens to a cold glass of soda when you sit it down? Water vapor condenses around it. The same will happen inside your gun and barrel- the o-rings can freeze if they get too cold and bust, and water will build up in the gun and in the barrel (and even the hopper) and can cause the gun to rust (when the bolt gets scratched up enough) or your paint to become brittle (paint is water soluable) and break in the gun/ barrel.

2. Since you are using CO2, it's a good idea to protect your investment. You can do this while improving your gun's consistency by a little under 10 percent. Why now? Well, before you start shooting your gun 15 times a second with firepower upgrades, you don't want to bust any o-rings or damage your gun/ paint. You can either purchase an Expansion Chamber (gives more room/ time for liquid CO2 to warm up enough to expand to gas where it's safer to use in the gun) or a stabilizer (works like x-chamber but also regulates the amount of pressure entering the gun). If you plan to upgrade to Nitro, it be best to purchase a stabilizer, since it can be used with both (note: only certain ones work for both- Bob Long Torpedo and Palmer Stabilizer just to name a few) CO2 and HPA. The Dead On Paintball 8 Chamber X-core expansion chamber and the Palmer Stabilizer are favorites of most of the forum users.

3. Next is firepower, regarding the Response Trigger or the E-grip[A-5 only]/ E-bolt[98 Custom only]. There are other posts that explain these, but I'll do a little bit of detail. The R/T uses excess gas, and to go full-auto you have to sweet spot it, which can be difficult to get used to. R/Ts are also banned on some fields because they are uncomfortable watching players get hit by full-auto bursts of 15 balls when it takes only 1 to call them out. The E-grip/ E-bolt are electronic (9 volt battery) and are easier to use and have different modes of firing (semi, full, 3-rd burst, turbo[E-grip]), thus making these legal at all fields (certain modes of fire can be banned, but semi-auto cannot be banned, as all guns are [usually]). The E-grip is a sear tripper (metal rod electronically thrown up to shoot the gun, think really fast finger) and the E-bolt is an elctro-pneumatic bolt (much more complicated). Both E-bolt and E-grip are capped (shoot no faster than) at 15 bps, while R/Ts are known to go above this when tuned correctly. Most will suggest the E-grip, due to its ease of use and versatility, plus it's average $30 more than R/T. The E-bolt, however, is much more pricey at about $145 more than the R/T.

4. Now here's the fun part. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Now here's when I suggest mods. I think it's best to wait to get over the sticker shock ("I just drilled a hole into 260 dollar gun!!") before doing anything that could screw up the gun. Mods include painting, trigger mods, air vents, etc. Check out this site for some ideas. http://www.model98.net

Nitro Upgrade Path

2. Firepower is your next upgrade. Choose between the R/T or the E-grip/ E-bolt. The R/T uses excess gas, can shoot faster then E's, is more difficult to use, and may be banned at your local field. The E's are easier, use batteries, are legal at all fields, have different modes of fire, and cost more ($30-$145 range) than R/T.

3. Now you may want to increase the consistency of your HPA. Get a regulator next. The most common on these forums (and favorite) is the Palmer Stabilizer.

4. Next is open upgrades. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Here I'd suggest doing your modding, since by now your wallet is recovered from those expensive upgrades. You can find good mods at http://www.model98.net There are other mods out there, those you'll have to find/ discover, or come up with your own mod and post it.

I hoped this helped out. I've seen many of these posts and most people give half answers and never really explain why they said get this or that.

Quick Review:

CO2 or future Nitro:
1. Barrel
2. X-chamber or Stabilizer
3. Firepower
4. Accessories
5. Mods

Nitro/HPA:
1. Barrel
2. Firepower
3. Regulator
4. Accessories
5. Mods



Edited by LordJovian
A-5
E-grip
Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16"
Evil Adapter(Spyder)
32 Deg New '03 XChamber
Remote Line
Gun Sling
Sniper f/x Stock
LPK
68/4500 HPA
R-5
CP Reg
JCS Duel Trigger
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 98c OwNaGe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 August 2004 at 9:10am
kool!
98c
Trigger Stop
Red Dot Pointer
Flatline Barrel
Redz 2+1 Harness
GTA Double Trigger
Steel Screws


http://tippmann.com/players/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID =109849&PN=1&TPN=1


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ziggymarley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 August 2004 at 3:39pm
Alright, i got off my rear and decide to finally put up the "Velocity screw mow." This was mentioned by another member so I will not take credit for it as my idea, but these are my pics and own writing. Sorry, forgot the member who did this mod...who ever you are, good work, great mod.

This mod is to permanently seal the stock velocity adjuster hole on the model 98 and model 98c powertubes. Tippmann velocity adjusters are not the most effficient and reliable way to change speed IMO, but it is inexpensive. Here's the mod...

Here's your powertube. The valve and everything is stripped out.


Screw in the screw so that the outside is flush with the outside of the tube. notice how much of the screw is inside blocking the air passage. Count the number of threads starting from the end and remove screw.


I found a vise works well to hold the screw while cutting it. You can use a hack saw to cut, but i found that the Dremel cutting disks worked very well. Remember how many threads you counted and use some tape or even "white-out" fluid to mark the line you want to cut so you have a target line. Also, safety is a must. use some protective goggles, glasses, or something used for face protection so that no debris or sparks hit your face or more importantly, your eyes.


A pic before the surgery and watching the velocity adjuster screw stare in fear of the cutting disk....


Here's a pic of the cut, i should have taken one of me cutting it...sparks were flying everywhere...


After milling and grinding my other gun down, I am a fan of the Dremel. Make sure you sand down the sharp edges with either a metal file or the sanding drums.


Check and make sure the screw fits...check the inside to make sure it isn't too far in or out on the outside. You'll want the screw to be flush with the outside and inside of the tube.


Flush...very flush, this is a pic of the outside after putting it in, I also checked inside, there wasn't any blockage.



Here is a measurement of the stock screw (top) and the modded cut screw (bottom)


I used loctite to keep the screw in place. Any type of thread locker would work if you really feel the need to use it.


This is a dark pic, sorry about that...but the tube is in and the screw doesn't stick out. The velocity screw is one of the main problems when stripping your shells. Even with all the screws out, the stock screw, if out enough, will keep both halves together


I hope this mod helps...

ziggy

edit: man, all my pics are down :(

Edited by ziggymarley
"Real markers have gills."
"son of a <KRL>."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Play Maker27 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 August 2004 at 1:06pm
Originally posted by LordJovian LordJovian wrote:

What order should I upgrade???

Well, here's a good plan for starters:

1. The barrel, the barrel, the barrel. Although it's not the most necessary, it's the most common first upgrade. This upgrade procedure is so common that paintball marker manufacturers (like Tippmann) don't even waste time selling a gun with a "good" stock barrel. A "pipe with threads and holes" is a good description of what stock barrels are, so the first upgrade should be/ usually is a barrel. For range, a Flatline is the only way. It's got a pretty decent accuracy, but it's pricey. Other good choices (cheapest to expensive) are the J&J Ceramic, Lapco Bigshot, Smart Parts All-American, Dye Ultralight, Freak Barrel Kit. There are many many more, but these are a few favorites among the forum users.

Here's where it gets kinda shaky- depending on what type of air you have, your route will be different. Nitro users, skip down to the Nitro Upgrade path. CO2 or those doing nitrogen/ HPA later, proceed as planned.

NOTE: CO2 is stored in tanks (yours and filling stations) as a liquid. Now realize when you exhale, that's CO2 (carbon dioxide). In order to store that gas and pressurize it effectively, they have to make it a liquid. To do that, they freeze it so the gas molecules are moving so slow they can't "fly" through the air. And it's very very very cold. What happens to a cold glass of soda when you sit it down? Water vapor condenses around it. The same will happen inside your gun and barrel- the o-rings can freeze if they get too cold and bust, and water will build up in the gun and in the barrel (and even the hopper) and can cause the gun to rust (when the bolt gets scratched up enough) or your paint to become brittle (paint is water soluable) and break in the gun/ barrel.

2. Since you are using CO2, it's a good idea to protect your investment. You can do this while improving your gun's consistency by a little under 10 percent. Why now? Well, before you start shooting your gun 15 times a second with firepower upgrades, you don't want to bust any o-rings or damage your gun/ paint. You can either purchase an Expansion Chamber (gives more room/ time for liquid CO2 to warm up enough to expand to gas where it's safer to use in the gun) or a stabilizer (works like x-chamber but also regulates the amount of pressure entering the gun). If you plan to upgrade to Nitro, it be best to purchase a stabilizer, since it can be used with both (note: only certain ones work for both- Bob Long Torpedo and Palmer Stabilizer just to name a few) CO2 and HPA. The Dead On Paintball 8 Chamber X-core expansion chamber and the Palmer Stabilizer are favorites of most of the forum users.

3. Next is firepower, regarding the Response Trigger or the E-grip[A-5 only]/ E-bolt[98 Custom only]. There are other posts that explain these, but I'll do a little bit of detail. The R/T uses excess gas, and to go full-auto you have to sweet spot it, which can be difficult to get used to. R/Ts are also banned on some fields because they are uncomfortable watching players get hit by full-auto bursts of 15 balls when it takes only 1 to call them out. The E-grip/ E-bolt are electronic (9 volt battery) and are easier to use and have different modes of firing (semi, full, 3-rd burst, turbo[E-grip]), thus making these legal at all fields (certain modes of fire can be banned, but semi-auto cannot be banned, as all guns are [usually]). The E-grip is a sear tripper (metal rod electronically thrown up to shoot the gun, think really fast finger) and the E-bolt is an elctro-pneumatic bolt (much more complicated). Both E-bolt and E-grip are capped (shoot no faster than) at 15 bps, while R/Ts are known to go above this when tuned correctly. Most will suggest the E-grip, due to its ease of use and versatility, plus it's average $30 more than R/T. The E-bolt, however, is much more pricey at about $145 more than the R/T.

4. Now here's the fun part. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Now here's when I suggest mods. I think it's best to wait to get over the sticker shock ("I just drilled a hole into 260 dollar gun!!") before doing anything that could screw up the gun. Mods include painting, trigger mods, air vents, etc. Check out this site for some ideas. http://www.model98.net

Nitro Upgrade Path

2. Firepower is your next upgrade. Choose between the R/T or the E-grip/ E-bolt. The R/T uses excess gas, can shoot faster then E's, is more difficult to use, and may be banned at your local field. The E's are easier, use batteries, are legal at all fields, have different modes of fire, and cost more ($30-$145 range) than R/T.

3. Now you may want to increase the consistency of your HPA. Get a regulator next. The most common on these forums (and favorite) is the Palmer Stabilizer.

4. Next is open upgrades. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Here I'd suggest doing your modding, since by now your wallet is recovered from those expensive upgrades. You can find good mods at http://www.model98.net There are other mods out there, those you'll have to find/ discover, or come up with your own mod and post it.

I hoped this helped out. I've seen many of these posts and most people give half answers and never really explain why they said get this or that.

Quick Review:

CO2 or future Nitro:
1. Barrel
2. X-chamber or Stabilizer
3. Firepower
4. Accessories
5. Mods

Nitro/HPA:
1. Barrel
2. Firepower
3. Regulator
4. Accessories
5. Mods

hahahh gj

Tippmann A-5
-E-Grip
-Unimount
-32* Remote
-Blade Trigger
-Redz Harness
-Flatline Barrel
-Palmers Stabalizer

Fund: 117/680
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Plante222 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Plante222 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 August 2004 at 2:10am
BAhhhhhhh i bought a lapco bigshot 14"
does that really mean i did bad, is it that big of a waste?
Nice thread btw lots of info
Tippmann forever
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White's Return Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2004 at 4:34pm

E-Bolt Guide and Tips

We all know the most pouplar speed upgrade for 98 Customs and occasionally the Model 98 is the GTA E-Bolt and the BSI E-Bolt. Now for those of  you who can't decide which one to buy or look into, heres a few differences.

GTA E-Bolt: The GTa differs from the BSI E-Bolt in a few ways. For one, the GTA is capped at around 13bps, but can cylce faster depending on your setup. It wont get over 16CPS due to the RAM, it is mechanically set to restrict over 16CPS. The GTA LPR (Low-Pressure Regulator) also differs from the BSI LPR. The GTA LPR is a modified PMI Thor Regualtor, they're not know for their performance. By this I mean they don't function like the BSI LPR. Some people get a bad performing LPR and some get a good one. The board and electronic valve on the GTA kit is also different, it is located in the main grip area, and the electronic valve is attached to the board. The switch that activates the solenoid, is placed on 2 pins where the sear use to be, and tightens into place.

BSI E-Bolt: This kit is almost completely different than the GTA E-Bolt. Number one, the RAm is a different type than the GTA one, and cycles much faster. The board is seperate from the electronic valve and is located at the top of the grip. The elctronic valve is right below it. The switch that activates the solenoid is attached to the board, which is great so you dont have to deal with its position, and also allows a much lighter pull. The battery housing is also different because it has 2 holes on the outside. One for the slider switch, and one for te LED light which indicates the power status and blinks while shooting. The LPR is also a main focus of this kit. Why? Because it's a modified Palmer, which most Tippmann owners know that Palmer Regulators are superior. This mounts to the included 2 hole ASA. This kit also differs in a favorite way to most people. the Semi-Auto mode is capped at 30BPS which will allwo great ROF, but wont cycle that fast due to the RAM, but still gets good ROF.

Now for some tips..................

The main issue to E-Bolts when first purchased scares the owner.In my case, I aired it up, and it didn't shoot, but I just needed to adjust a few things. #1. Make sure your LPR is allowing air flow, but make sure it has no leak or you will lose pressure. #2. Adjust your velocity to the maximum, then tune it to what it should be set at. #3. Play around with your DWELL, that is what the problem was for mine, i just cranked it to the right all the way.

Make sure with the BSI and the GTA kit, that you dont have hoses or wires in the moving area of the RAM, or they will get pinched and wreck them. Theres a trick on http://www.model98.net to help precent this.

Now for the main controversy. People have had there board fried by using CO2 non-anti-siphoned. This can happen, but doesnt commonly occur. It is reccomended to use N2/Compressed Air, but not required. I peersonally use my GTA E-Bbolt on Co2 and nitrogen, and I have'nt had problems. I recommend not to let your gun ice up though, because you might get your board coated in ice, and that CAN fry your board.

Your gun will be majorly inaccurate with CO2, mine shoots and about 20 feet, the ball goes straight up in the air. Now on nitro, its very accurate. if you dont know why this happens, its because the CO2 causes velocity spiking.

Now for those who want to know if theres any upgrade boards out there, hers all that I know of. #1. Morlock Board (Requires Modifiying) #2. WAS Equalizer (Not Released Yet, and a rumor that it might not come out due to the lack of demand). LMK if theres one I missed.

If your curious what my setup is to see how my gun works with it, here it is.

98 Custom (Silver) with polished internals, GTA E-Bolt (GTA LPR ditched for a sledgehammer LPR), GTA Double Trigger, Shocktech Drop and 2 Hole ASA, HP 3-way Hose for E-Bolt, Macroline Kit, 14" Lapco Bigshot. My trigger pull is measured in at 2mm, and is walkable.

Links:
http://tippmann.com/systems/ebolt.asp
http://www.model98.net

http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/bsm98e- full-auto-kit.htm

I'll update this with whatever I find that will help you guys out.

Thanks,
Joe M. (WK457)

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