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Uber Upgrades & FAQ: Please Read!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A-5 Command Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 March 2005 at 5:17pm

what is the formula used to find the number of shots for a 3500 psi tank? 12.5 x CI???

A-5
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Tapco T-6 stock
JCS Duel Trigger
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88ci/4500psi Crossfire
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VaNDaLiZe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 March 2005 at 11:55am
I have an expansion chamber cuase i use to use co2. Would the exapnsion chamber work well with nitro tank?
Tippmann A-5
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Response Trigger
Expansion Chamber
68cu Crossfire Fiber Wraped

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TippmannEffect Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2005 at 2:25am
GTA and BSI E-bolt is not in production any more.**

The gta kit may be found on ebay but, I doubt you will find a bsi kit (alone).

You can find both kits usually on ebay already installed in 98's.

"some people think the reactive trigger is automatic but its not as fast and it is illegal in tourdament"

Auto = Fast? No actually it doesn't.
The rt can actually get very high rates of fire.
The RT shoots very fast "strings" of paint.
It is not legal in toureys and not legal at some fields.
www.tippmannowners.com
check me out there
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longislandkid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2005 at 6:22pm

just to end all of these posts:

Tippmann has decided to end the making of the egrip. If you wanted to get the egrip the oonly way now is by ebay or a friend.

some people think the reactive trigger is automatic but its not as fast and it is illegal in tourdament

long island#1 place ever
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hella Cool Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2005 at 5:35pm
Above it says that you can't put a stock on a 98 w/ E-Bolt. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote surfnbrad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 December 2004 at 8:36am
yea thats wat the ebolts does u put ito the stock 98 custom    yea it would work with the other stock to 
Tippmann A-5: $230/ E-grip: $120/ JCS trigger: $32/ Tear drop Barrel: $35/   Bunkering you while using it: Priceless
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote insane canadian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 December 2004 at 3:32pm
hey can an ebolt for a 98 custom work with a stock?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GhettoSmurf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 December 2004 at 5:33pm
Originally posted by paintballer44 paintballer44 wrote:

D-DO NOT FREEZE YOUR PAINT (doing so will ruin your barrel and is dangerous to others)

 

LOL my friend left paint in his car overnight and it froze...he let it thaw then used it...electric hopper---->blender...lol no magic there

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RoboCop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2004 at 9:47pm
I wish more people would read this sticky so we wouldn't have so many questions, but then again i hate when the forum is slow

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote maroon out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2004 at 10:09pm
How to replace the snap ring on your CVX valve with a C-clip.

I got tired of messing with the snap ring on my CVX valves so I went to some hardware stores in search of suitable replacement. I found that a 1/2Ē C-clip fits perfectly in place of the snap ring. I got the C-clip from Lowes in the nuts and bolts section, in one of the weird parts drawers. Iím not sure if they come in different thicknesses so you might want to take your snap ring along when you buy it to make sure.

You will also need some C-clip pliers to install and remove the C-clip from your valve. I didnít feel like blowing $15 on some pliers, so I modified some cheap needle nose pliers to work.

Hereís some pics...







Makes disassembling the valve insanely easy.

Edited by maroon out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JacBacpaintball Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 December 2004 at 4:08pm
not 2 flame someone but wouldnt the instruction manual come with stuff like ebolt or response trigger or something like that?
FLATLINES SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
DON'T BE AFRAID OF BALLZ!
my setup is
98 custom
double trigger
lapco bigshot 14 in.
12volt revolution


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote glooey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 November 2004 at 11:49pm
how exactly do you paint the A5 good? there are no good tips for painting it just for the 98 custom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1manteam98 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 October 2004 at 3:23pm
nice post it is good to refer to
98 custom
hyperstar bolt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White's Return Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2004 at 4:34pm

E-Bolt Guide and Tips

We all know the most pouplar speed upgrade for 98 Customs and occasionally the Model 98 is the GTA E-Bolt and the BSI E-Bolt. Now for those of  you who can't decide which one to buy or look into, heres a few differences.

GTA E-Bolt: The GTa differs from the BSI E-Bolt in a few ways. For one, the GTA is capped at around 13bps, but can cylce faster depending on your setup. It wont get over 16CPS due to the RAM, it is mechanically set to restrict over 16CPS. The GTA LPR (Low-Pressure Regulator) also differs from the BSI LPR. The GTA LPR is a modified PMI Thor Regualtor, they're not know for their performance. By this I mean they don't function like the BSI LPR. Some people get a bad performing LPR and some get a good one. The board and electronic valve on the GTA kit is also different, it is located in the main grip area, and the electronic valve is attached to the board. The switch that activates the solenoid, is placed on 2 pins where the sear use to be, and tightens into place.

BSI E-Bolt: This kit is almost completely different than the GTA E-Bolt. Number one, the RAm is a different type than the GTA one, and cycles much faster. The board is seperate from the electronic valve and is located at the top of the grip. The elctronic valve is right below it. The switch that activates the solenoid is attached to the board, which is great so you dont have to deal with its position, and also allows a much lighter pull. The battery housing is also different because it has 2 holes on the outside. One for the slider switch, and one for te LED light which indicates the power status and blinks while shooting. The LPR is also a main focus of this kit. Why? Because it's a modified Palmer, which most Tippmann owners know that Palmer Regulators are superior. This mounts to the included 2 hole ASA. This kit also differs in a favorite way to most people. the Semi-Auto mode is capped at 30BPS which will allwo great ROF, but wont cycle that fast due to the RAM, but still gets good ROF.

Now for some tips..................

The main issue to E-Bolts when first purchased scares the owner.In my case, I aired it up, and it didn't shoot, but I just needed to adjust a few things. #1. Make sure your LPR is allowing air flow, but make sure it has no leak or you will lose pressure. #2. Adjust your velocity to the maximum, then tune it to what it should be set at. #3. Play around with your DWELL, that is what the problem was for mine, i just cranked it to the right all the way.

Make sure with the BSI and the GTA kit, that you dont have hoses or wires in the moving area of the RAM, or they will get pinched and wreck them. Theres a trick on http://www.model98.net to help precent this.

Now for the main controversy. People have had there board fried by using CO2 non-anti-siphoned. This can happen, but doesnt commonly occur. It is reccomended to use N2/Compressed Air, but not required. I peersonally use my GTA E-Bbolt on Co2 and nitrogen, and I have'nt had problems. I recommend not to let your gun ice up though, because you might get your board coated in ice, and that CAN fry your board.

Your gun will be majorly inaccurate with CO2, mine shoots and about 20 feet, the ball goes straight up in the air. Now on nitro, its very accurate. if you dont know why this happens, its because the CO2 causes velocity spiking.

Now for those who want to know if theres any upgrade boards out there, hers all that I know of. #1. Morlock Board (Requires Modifiying) #2. WAS Equalizer (Not Released Yet, and a rumor that it might not come out due to the lack of demand). LMK if theres one I missed.

If your curious what my setup is to see how my gun works with it, here it is.

98 Custom (Silver) with polished internals, GTA E-Bolt (GTA LPR ditched for a sledgehammer LPR), GTA Double Trigger, Shocktech Drop and 2 Hole ASA, HP 3-way Hose for E-Bolt, Macroline Kit, 14" Lapco Bigshot. My trigger pull is measured in at 2mm, and is walkable.

Links:
http://tippmann.com/systems/ebolt.asp
http://www.model98.net

http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/bsm98e- full-auto-kit.htm

I'll update this with whatever I find that will help you guys out.

Thanks,
Joe M. (WK457)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Plante222 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 August 2004 at 2:10am
BAhhhhhhh i bought a lapco bigshot 14"
does that really mean i did bad, is it that big of a waste?
Nice thread btw lots of info
Tippmann forever
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Play Maker27 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 August 2004 at 1:06pm
Originally posted by LordJovian LordJovian wrote:

What order should I upgrade???

Well, here's a good plan for starters:

1. The barrel, the barrel, the barrel. Although it's not the most necessary, it's the most common first upgrade. This upgrade procedure is so common that paintball marker manufacturers (like Tippmann) don't even waste time selling a gun with a "good" stock barrel. A "pipe with threads and holes" is a good description of what stock barrels are, so the first upgrade should be/ usually is a barrel. For range, a Flatline is the only way. It's got a pretty decent accuracy, but it's pricey. Other good choices (cheapest to expensive) are the J&J Ceramic, Lapco Bigshot, Smart Parts All-American, Dye Ultralight, Freak Barrel Kit. There are many many more, but these are a few favorites among the forum users.

Here's where it gets kinda shaky- depending on what type of air you have, your route will be different. Nitro users, skip down to the Nitro Upgrade path. CO2 or those doing nitrogen/ HPA later, proceed as planned.

NOTE: CO2 is stored in tanks (yours and filling stations) as a liquid. Now realize when you exhale, that's CO2 (carbon dioxide). In order to store that gas and pressurize it effectively, they have to make it a liquid. To do that, they freeze it so the gas molecules are moving so slow they can't "fly" through the air. And it's very very very cold. What happens to a cold glass of soda when you sit it down? Water vapor condenses around it. The same will happen inside your gun and barrel- the o-rings can freeze if they get too cold and bust, and water will build up in the gun and in the barrel (and even the hopper) and can cause the gun to rust (when the bolt gets scratched up enough) or your paint to become brittle (paint is water soluable) and break in the gun/ barrel.

2. Since you are using CO2, it's a good idea to protect your investment. You can do this while improving your gun's consistency by a little under 10 percent. Why now? Well, before you start shooting your gun 15 times a second with firepower upgrades, you don't want to bust any o-rings or damage your gun/ paint. You can either purchase an Expansion Chamber (gives more room/ time for liquid CO2 to warm up enough to expand to gas where it's safer to use in the gun) or a stabilizer (works like x-chamber but also regulates the amount of pressure entering the gun). If you plan to upgrade to Nitro, it be best to purchase a stabilizer, since it can be used with both (note: only certain ones work for both- Bob Long Torpedo and Palmer Stabilizer just to name a few) CO2 and HPA. The Dead On Paintball 8 Chamber X-core expansion chamber and the Palmer Stabilizer are favorites of most of the forum users.

3. Next is firepower, regarding the Response Trigger or the E-grip[A-5 only]/ E-bolt[98 Custom only]. There are other posts that explain these, but I'll do a little bit of detail. The R/T uses excess gas, and to go full-auto you have to sweet spot it, which can be difficult to get used to. R/Ts are also banned on some fields because they are uncomfortable watching players get hit by full-auto bursts of 15 balls when it takes only 1 to call them out. The E-grip/ E-bolt are electronic (9 volt battery) and are easier to use and have different modes of firing (semi, full, 3-rd burst, turbo[E-grip]), thus making these legal at all fields (certain modes of fire can be banned, but semi-auto cannot be banned, as all guns are [usually]). The E-grip is a sear tripper (metal rod electronically thrown up to shoot the gun, think really fast finger) and the E-bolt is an elctro-pneumatic bolt (much more complicated). Both E-bolt and E-grip are capped (shoot no faster than) at 15 bps, while R/Ts are known to go above this when tuned correctly. Most will suggest the E-grip, due to its ease of use and versatility, plus it's average $30 more than R/T. The E-bolt, however, is much more pricey at about $145 more than the R/T.

4. Now here's the fun part. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Now here's when I suggest mods. I think it's best to wait to get over the sticker shock ("I just drilled a hole into 260 dollar gun!!") before doing anything that could screw up the gun. Mods include painting, trigger mods, air vents, etc. Check out this site for some ideas. http://www.model98.net

Nitro Upgrade Path

2. Firepower is your next upgrade. Choose between the R/T or the E-grip/ E-bolt. The R/T uses excess gas, can shoot faster then E's, is more difficult to use, and may be banned at your local field. The E's are easier, use batteries, are legal at all fields, have different modes of fire, and cost more ($30-$145 range) than R/T.

3. Now you may want to increase the consistency of your HPA. Get a regulator next. The most common on these forums (and favorite) is the Palmer Stabilizer.

4. Next is open upgrades. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Here I'd suggest doing your modding, since by now your wallet is recovered from those expensive upgrades. You can find good mods at http://www.model98.net There are other mods out there, those you'll have to find/ discover, or come up with your own mod and post it.

I hoped this helped out. I've seen many of these posts and most people give half answers and never really explain why they said get this or that.

Quick Review:

CO2 or future Nitro:
1. Barrel
2. X-chamber or Stabilizer
3. Firepower
4. Accessories
5. Mods

Nitro/HPA:
1. Barrel
2. Firepower
3. Regulator
4. Accessories
5. Mods

hahahh gj

Tippmann A-5
-E-Grip
-Unimount
-32* Remote
-Blade Trigger
-Redz Harness
-Flatline Barrel
-Palmers Stabalizer

Fund: 117/680
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ziggymarley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 August 2004 at 3:39pm
Alright, i got off my rear and decide to finally put up the "Velocity screw mow." This was mentioned by another member so I will not take credit for it as my idea, but these are my pics and own writing. Sorry, forgot the member who did this mod...who ever you are, good work, great mod.

This mod is to permanently seal the stock velocity adjuster hole on the model 98 and model 98c powertubes. Tippmann velocity adjusters are not the most effficient and reliable way to change speed IMO, but it is inexpensive. Here's the mod...

Here's your powertube. The valve and everything is stripped out.


Screw in the screw so that the outside is flush with the outside of the tube. notice how much of the screw is inside blocking the air passage. Count the number of threads starting from the end and remove screw.


I found a vise works well to hold the screw while cutting it. You can use a hack saw to cut, but i found that the Dremel cutting disks worked very well. Remember how many threads you counted and use some tape or even "white-out" fluid to mark the line you want to cut so you have a target line. Also, safety is a must. use some protective goggles, glasses, or something used for face protection so that no debris or sparks hit your face or more importantly, your eyes.


A pic before the surgery and watching the velocity adjuster screw stare in fear of the cutting disk....


Here's a pic of the cut, i should have taken one of me cutting it...sparks were flying everywhere...


After milling and grinding my other gun down, I am a fan of the Dremel. Make sure you sand down the sharp edges with either a metal file or the sanding drums.


Check and make sure the screw fits...check the inside to make sure it isn't too far in or out on the outside. You'll want the screw to be flush with the outside and inside of the tube.


Flush...very flush, this is a pic of the outside after putting it in, I also checked inside, there wasn't any blockage.



Here is a measurement of the stock screw (top) and the modded cut screw (bottom)


I used loctite to keep the screw in place. Any type of thread locker would work if you really feel the need to use it.


This is a dark pic, sorry about that...but the tube is in and the screw doesn't stick out. The velocity screw is one of the main problems when stripping your shells. Even with all the screws out, the stock screw, if out enough, will keep both halves together


I hope this mod helps...

ziggy

edit: man, all my pics are down :(

Edited by ziggymarley
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 98c OwNaGe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 August 2004 at 9:10am
kool!
98c
Trigger Stop
Red Dot Pointer
Flatline Barrel
Redz 2+1 Harness
GTA Double Trigger
Steel Screws


http://tippmann.com/players/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID =109849&PN=1&TPN=1


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LordJovian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2004 at 2:45pm

What order should I upgrade???

Well, here's a good plan for starters:

1. The barrel, the barrel, the barrel. Although it's not the most necessary, it's the most common first upgrade. This upgrade procedure is so common that paintball marker manufacturers (like Tippmann) don't even waste time selling a gun with a "good" stock barrel. A "pipe with threads and holes" is a good description of what stock barrels are, so the first upgrade should be/ usually is a barrel. For range, a Flatline is the only way. It's got a pretty decent accuracy, but it's pricey. Other good choices (cheapest to expensive) are the J&J Ceramic, Lapco Bigshot, Smart Parts All-American, Dye Ultralight, Freak Barrel Kit. There are many many more, but these are a few favorites among the forum users.

Here's where it gets kinda shaky- depending on what type of air you have, your route will be different. Nitro users, skip down to the Nitro Upgrade path. CO2 or those doing nitrogen/ HPA later, proceed as planned.

NOTE: CO2 is stored in tanks (yours and filling stations) as a liquid. Now realize when you exhale, that's CO2 (carbon dioxide). In order to store that gas and pressurize it effectively, they have to make it a liquid. To do that, they freeze it so the gas molecules are moving so slow they can't "fly" through the air. And it's very very very cold. What happens to a cold glass of soda when you sit it down? Water vapor condenses around it. The same will happen inside your gun and barrel- the o-rings can freeze if they get too cold and bust, and water will build up in the gun and in the barrel (and even the hopper) and can cause the gun to rust (when the bolt gets scratched up enough) or your paint to become brittle (paint is water soluable) and break in the gun/ barrel.

2. Since you are using CO2, it's a good idea to protect your investment. You can do this while improving your gun's consistency by a little under 10 percent. Why now? Well, before you start shooting your gun 15 times a second with firepower upgrades, you don't want to bust any o-rings or damage your gun/ paint. You can either purchase an Expansion Chamber (gives more room/ time for liquid CO2 to warm up enough to expand to gas where it's safer to use in the gun) or a stabilizer (works like x-chamber but also regulates the amount of pressure entering the gun). If you plan to upgrade to Nitro, it be best to purchase a stabilizer, since it can be used with both (note: only certain ones work for both- Bob Long Torpedo and Palmer Stabilizer just to name a few) CO2 and HPA. The Dead On Paintball 8 Chamber X-core expansion chamber and the Palmer Stabilizer are favorites of most of the forum users.

3. Next is firepower, regarding the Response Trigger or the E-grip[A-5 only]/ E-bolt[98 Custom only]. There are other posts that explain these, but I'll do a little bit of detail. The R/T uses excess gas, and to go full-auto you have to sweet spot it, which can be difficult to get used to. R/Ts are also banned on some fields because they are uncomfortable watching players get hit by full-auto bursts of 15 balls when it takes only 1 to call them out. The E-grip/ E-bolt are electronic (9 volt battery) and are easier to use and have different modes of firing (semi, full, 3-rd burst, turbo[E-grip]), thus making these legal at all fields (certain modes of fire can be banned, but semi-auto cannot be banned, as all guns are [usually]). The E-grip is a sear tripper (metal rod electronically thrown up to shoot the gun, think really fast finger) and the E-bolt is an elctro-pneumatic bolt (much more complicated). Both E-bolt and E-grip are capped (shoot no faster than) at 15 bps, while R/Ts are known to go above this when tuned correctly. Most will suggest the E-grip, due to its ease of use and versatility, plus it's average $30 more than R/T. The E-bolt, however, is much more pricey at about $145 more than the R/T.

4. Now here's the fun part. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Now here's when I suggest mods. I think it's best to wait to get over the sticker shock ("I just drilled a hole into 260 dollar gun!!") before doing anything that could screw up the gun. Mods include painting, trigger mods, air vents, etc. Check out this site for some ideas. http://www.model98.net

Nitro Upgrade Path

2. Firepower is your next upgrade. Choose between the R/T or the E-grip/ E-bolt. The R/T uses excess gas, can shoot faster then E's, is more difficult to use, and may be banned at your local field. The E's are easier, use batteries, are legal at all fields, have different modes of fire, and cost more ($30-$145 range) than R/T.

3. Now you may want to increase the consistency of your HPA. Get a regulator next. The most common on these forums (and favorite) is the Palmer Stabilizer.

4. Next is open upgrades. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Here I'd suggest doing your modding, since by now your wallet is recovered from those expensive upgrades. You can find good mods at http://www.model98.net There are other mods out there, those you'll have to find/ discover, or come up with your own mod and post it.

I hoped this helped out. I've seen many of these posts and most people give half answers and never really explain why they said get this or that.

Quick Review:

CO2 or future Nitro:
1. Barrel
2. X-chamber or Stabilizer
3. Firepower
4. Accessories
5. Mods

Nitro/HPA:
1. Barrel
2. Firepower
3. Regulator
4. Accessories
5. Mods



Edited by LordJovian
A-5
E-grip
Chipley Custom Carbon Graphite 16"
Evil Adapter(Spyder)
32 Deg New '03 XChamber
Remote Line
Gun Sling
Sniper f/x Stock
LPK
68/4500 HPA
R-5
CP Reg
JCS Duel Trigger
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Master Shake View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 July 2004
Status: Offline
Points: 15
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Master Shake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2004 at 8:21pm
First off, I have a 14" GTA sniper Barrel, and my gun is more accurate than a person with an 18" Boomstick, and has about the same range as a Flatline. Belive me, I know. Second, the 98 Flatline chops alot of balls, wheras with the A-5 Flatline, they put more time and effort into it. But, the Flatlines are meant for range, and not as much accuracy. If you want an accurate barrel, get the GTA 14". Range is good, but it doesn't matter if you can't hit anything.
-----NEW GUN-----
CLASS Lasoya SignatureDark Angel IR3
14" Dye Ultralite
Shocktech Dropforward
Shocktech On/Off
VL Egg
(2)47/3000 Nitro Tank
Styla Raptor Trigger
A-4 Reg
2 Spike
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