Uber FAQ: Please read before posting
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Joined: 24 December 2002
Topic: Uber FAQ: Please read before posting
Posted: 28 October 2003 at 5:59pm
As a general rule, a sig should be less than 150 pixels high and 350 pixels wide. 50k should be considered a "hard cap" for signature file size. Of course, the smaller the file size the better.
Please try and adhere to this standard. Thanks! (Rock Slide)
Here are two Links to Threads that explain Sigs and Avatars and Photos: <<Links being updated since they no longer work after the switchover. ~Reb>>
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Thank You For Your Cooperation!
Edited by Reb Cpl
Kewl Stickers http://graphics4.racingteam.com
youm0nt Lite ... and low carbs, too!!
Joined: 30 September 2002
Location: Neutral Zone
|Posted: 28 October 2003 at 6:06pm|
New people to this forum, please read!
When you come and here and ask questions, please don't just ask what should be my next upgrade? Or, what barrel should I get? Or, what is better?
It is hard to answer these questions if that is all the info you give us! Please say more, like:
How long you have been playing.
Where you play.
What type of game you play.
What do you already have on your gun.
How much money you have.
What gun you have!
What you are kind of interested in.
What you have been thinking about getting.
What you have heard about it.
Please say some of this stuff in your posts.
The Star System
The Star System, What Is It?
I have seen many posts about this. People keep asking about how do I get a second Star, or what do the Stars mean? Well I decided to make a post about this.
What the Stars mean:
Guest - Status that you are put down to by a Mod for spamming, selling, posting inappropriate links including Outwar, and just being annoying.
Standard Member: Your new to the forum. The Regulars Forum is locked to you.
Gold Member: You may have been here awhile and you know your stuff. The Regulars Forum is unlocked for you.
Platinum Member: You have no more special privileges. There is nothing else to "Unlock". But, you get a little more respect.
Moderator: You are the forum " Watch Dog". You can kick people off of here, close topics, and promote or demote other members "Status".
Administrator: The 5 Star: He is the Forum God, and there is only one, Jason. He can do just about anything that he wants.
How to EARN, or lose Stars:
You can get more Stars be being nice, helping out others, and being here for awhile.
You can lose Stars by swearing, flaming, spamming, stupid user names, and posting Outwar or porn links.
Post Count does not matter for becoming Gold or Platinum Member. Just because you have 173839 posts, doesn't mean that you should be Platinum. Some people have over two thousand Posts and are still Standard Members. Some Members have under 500 Posts, and are Gold or Platinum.
Have Fun, Here!
See You On The "Boards"!
Edited by tgaffner
strike 1 11/24/08 language
Joined: 10 June 2002
Location: United States
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 9:34am|
Note: i will format it later, but i'm short on time now.
This thread was made by The Silencer, and with help from Ultimate Trooper and AdrenalineJunkie, to help answer most of the common questions that players have. By reading this you will hopefully be a lot smarter in the ways of paintball.
Types of Games
Woods-A game played in the woods, common variations include capture the flag, elimination, and centerflag, but there are many others.
Speedball-This is played on a small field with two teams starting on opposite sides, usually the teams must all be touching the starting bunker. On the field, there is generally a lot of bunkers; which is anything that can be hid behind, for example, barrels, logs, spools, inflatable shapes, etc. There is a flag in the very center of the field and the object is to get the flag and get in to your enemies starting spot without being hit.
Scenario Games-These games have special curcumbstances and objectives to be accomplished. Many scenario games are historic battles, like the Oklahoma D-day reinactment, themes from movies, or whatever else you decide to play to add some fun to the game.
Urban-Normally played in a house/neighborhood style feild(this does not mean you should play in your neighborhood) this is often a very fast paced game, can be played as elimination, capture the flag or center flag.
Capture the Flag-you must capture a flag and take it to the other teams base, if you are in possesion of the flag when time runs out you win, and if you eliminate all of the players on the other team you win.
Centerflag-you must capture the flag and return it to your base, once again, if you have possion of the flag when the time runs out you win, and if you eliminate all opponents you win
Elimination-Deafeat all oposing players, or tag more opponents than the other team before time runs out.
-Paintball markers, or guns, come in 5 styles:
Pump guns-In order to fire you must cock the gun via a pump arm. Then to fire you pull the trigger and a paintball is shot. In order to fire again, you must pump the marker again. Some pump guns are known as stock class guns. These are limited to 10 round loaders that are parrelell to the guns main body. They also must be pump action they must use a 12 gram Co2 cartridge. This kind of play is very challenging and many people choose to play stock class so they can get better, or they jsut like the challange of it.
Semi-automatic-aka semi's. In order to fire you must first cock the gun usually by pulling a knob back. When you pull the trigger a paintball is shot and the marker recocks itself. These will fire as fast as you can pull the trigger. These make up the majority of paintball guns today.
Electro s-These guns are electronically controlled. Most electronic guns have semi-auto fire, and some have full auto, as well as other select fire capabilities. Tournament will not let you use guns set to fully automatic, which means when you pull the trigger the gun will fire many paintballs until you let go of the trigger, because of safty reasons. These are generally more expensive but they work very nicely.
Hybrids-Guns that can be run either as electro's or as semi's, the only one I know of is the E-mag which has a switch the lets you run the gun 100% mechanically like a normal automag or with the electronic controls. (you may want mechanical operation if I field doesn't like electros, your friend whine about it, or you batteries need to be charged.
Sidearms- these guns are small, pistol size guns. They get their name from where they are carried....your side. They work as a back up incase your primary paintball gun doesn't work or you just need to use it for a specific purpose. They mostly use 12 gram Co2 tanks and 10 round loaders or magazines. They come in pump and semi-auto. A growing number of differen't side arms are being made. I have used a PT Extreme and personnally feel that they are not very accurate and a waste of money. I own a Sheridan PGP, which is a pump pistol that runs on 12 grams. While it is only a pump, the PGP is very accurate and reliable. It get a lot more shots per 12 gram then a semi auto does.
-No gun is better than another, Some might be more accuarte than others but that is accomplesed by barrel and paint match. Some may be faster than others, but paintball is (usually) one shot one kill. The marker is nothing more than an object used to propell a paintball at a target and mark that target. The looks of the gun have no effct of a guns preformance, other than maybe reducing some weight, looks are nothing more than a player prefrence. Some of the best players usually have stuff like a slight upgraded marker that fits their needs and thei style of play. Shoot what you want, see what you like and decide on how cost-affective a purchase of a marker will be.
A general view of many people that can also be summed up as, "It's not how good your gun is, It's how good the player/operator of the gun is." My field owner says it best when he tells this to new players asking about guns and their abilities, "I have never seen a gun itself win a game. A better gun will not make you win. A better gun will only take a good player and make him better."
-What is probably the most important factor in a paintball gun is the feel, if its not comfortable to you, your not going to be doing well. the best idea is to get the gun that feels best.
-Every paintball gun must have some form of compressed gas to fire a paintball. Gas is stored in a tank, or bottle, and most of them are screwed into and ASA (air source adapter). There are 2 general kinds of gases used:
CO2 (Carbon Dioxide)
-Co2 is stored in tanks and in measured in liquid ounces. Some guns use small cartriges of Co2 known as 12 gram cartridges that cannot be refilled. These 12 gram tanks only give you about 20-30 shots for pumps and about shouldn't be used on semi's. Refillable tanks come in these standard sizes: 4oz, 7oz, 9oz, 12oz, 14oz, 16oz, 20oz and 24oz sizes. These tanks get many shots per fill and are relatively cheap; about $20-30.
-any tank that is over 2 inches in diameter must has aa hydro date, at 5 years from the date on the tank it must be hydrostatically tested or put out of use. since hydrostatic testing gennerally costs more than a new tank, its better to just through it out and get a new one
-Co2 tanks can be made out of either aluminum and chrome, aluminum ones are lighter, and chrome ones are stronger. chrome tanks can come in a minni size, for instance a 16 ounce mini tank is smaller than a normall 16 ounce,
-Co2 tanks can be equiped with a small tube called an anti-syphon, this tube helps reduce the amount of liquid Co2 that is sucked into the gun, increasing consistency.
-Shots for these tanks are Roughly this:
9oz- 300 shots
12oz- 500 shots
14oz- 650 shots
16oz- 800 shots
-These figures are just rough estimates and depend upon what air accesories you have and how effecient your paintball gun is. Another major factor in shots per tank is how full your tank is when you get it filled. Temperature can also change greatly how many shots you get out of your tank. Generally the highly the temp outside, the more shots you get, after it's about 60 degrees out, you will start to notice huge changes in consistency. Some places fill it to the max, some fill the tank about 2 ounces less then the capacity general safety. It generally cost around $3 to fill a Co2 tank.
-A pump gun will get almost double the shot per tank that a semi auto will get because they don't use any extra air to recock the marker.
Pros & Cons:
About the only advantages to Co2 are that it is generally cheaper to use and it allows for more shots out of a similarly sized tank than nitrogen. Cons- Co2 is stored in the tank as a liquid and must change to a gas before it reaches the paintball gun. If liquid Co2 gets into the gun it cuase wild velocity changes, freezeing of the gun, and in some cases like with an automag, will damage the gun. Because Co2 must change into a gas first it is a lot less stable the nitrogen. When playing in colder weather, around 50 degrees, it is hard for the Co2 to expand, especailly if you are firing a lot. Co2 is generally at 800 psi while it's in the tank. Different temperatures causes this to change.
Nitrogen and High Pressure Air (Nitro & HPA)
-Nitrogen and HPA are the same thing in paintball and can be interchangeable. You can fill these tanks with nitrogen or HPA. HPA is compressed air that is very strongly compressed, and HPA is not like the air you use to blow up a beach ball or a football, this air is stored in the tanks at either 3000, 4500, or 5000 psi. Because it is stored to such high psi it is called HPA. Now HPA is around 80% nitrogen so it can be use interchangebly with nito in paintball. I hope this clears some things up.
-Nitrogen doesn't have to change to a gas like Co2 so it is a lot more stable; which leads to better accuracy, more consistant velocities, and no temperature flucuations. Nitrogen tanks are measured in c.i. or cubic inches. General tank sizes are 48ci, 68ci, 88ci, and 114ci. They can also be stored at 3 different psi levels which determen your shots per tank. the levels are 3000, 4500, and 5000 psi. Shots per tank go roughly like this:
3000 psi tanks get about 10 shots per ci (cubic inch). for example a 45ci tank gets about 450 shots per fill.
4500 psi tanks get about 15 shots per ci. a 45ci tank will get about 675 shots per fill.
5000 get about 20 shots per ci. A 45 ci tank will get about 900 shots per fill.
-Nitrogen tanks have things called "hydro dates". These are dates when they must be tested if you wish to use them past the date. They are generally 3 years after you buy the tank. after the 3 years you must have the tanks hydrostatically tested to see if they are still in good shape. HPA tanks come in different materials. Fiber wraped tanks are lighter and stronger then steal or aluminum tanks. I think if you get a 4500psi tank then you can only get fiber wrapped or some that tough skin stuff.
-Nitrogen tanks cost about $1 per 1000 psi of gas you get filled. Some places offer things like $5 all day fills where you pay a one time fee and they will fill your tank all day. Nitrogen tanks are filled by psi and not by weight like Co2. They also fill almost instantly, unlike Co2.
-Masks are the most important piece of equiptment in paintball. Mask are required at all times at fields where shooting is permitted. If you get caught playing without your mask or taking it off on most fields you will be kicked out for the day. They are so important that you can even play with nothing other then a mask, not even a gun. I don't know the logic to this, maybe you're working on you paintball dodging and outrunning ability but I like to at least have one gun whenever I play.
-Masks come in single or thermal lenses. Thermal lenses are fog proof lenses (some are but some arn't very fog "proof"). Thermal lenses are generally only $10 more and i always say you should spend the extra money on a good mask because it doesn't matter much accesories you have if you can't see anything.
Masks I recomend
1)Dye invisions, their pricy, but they give you a good field of view, small profile, and thermal lenses.
2)Jt flex 7, also kinda pricy, but not as much as the invisions, also thermal.
3)Thermal JT Invaders, the cheapest, but still thermal, i would go for one of the other 2 if i had the money, but its still Good
-When it comes to acceories I reccomend playing a couple games with your gun stock, or just like it was when you got it. Then after a few games decide what you want to change about the gun.
-A new barrel should almost always be your first upgrade. Stock barrels arn't made to be very accurate because the designers know that most people will just buy their own barrel afterwords so making a good stock barrel would just raise the prices of the gun.
Barrel lengths, pressure, and accuracy-
-I common myth among new players is that the longer the barrel the more accurate the barrel will be. NOT TRUE. Barrel physics can be a little complicated if you do not understand how pressure differences react to each other, basically what you have to understand is how high and low pressure air flows within spaces. In any paintball gun the ball is pushed into the barrel and then is accelerated down the barrel. You might ask yourself why does any gun need a barrel? A barrel guides a paintball as it accelerates from a standstill. When the bolt pushes the paintball down the barrel pressurized gas comes out of the valve between the paintball and the valve. This cause a very high pressure (normally around 100psi is required to launch a paintball) behind the ball and a low pressure down the barrel and in front of the ball. If you know anything about physics you should know that this means the high pressure will want even itself out with the low pressure and this action will force the paintball to move. As the paintball moves down the barrel the pressure behind the ball will decrease because the total volume of the container the gas is in will increase but it will continue to push the paintball along. Airgun Designs, the company that produces automags, have done many tests on this and has found that a paintball needs 6-8 inches of a smooth barrel and no holes/porting to properly accelerate. Anything longer or shorter will mess up the accuracy of the paintball coming out. Does this mean that you should buy and 8-inch barrel? The answer is no. On barrels acceleration of the ball is cut off at the first porting hole. This means your barrel should have 6-8 inches (from the back) of no porting. Then after about 8 inches there should be either no barrel or there should be some porting in order to get the best accuracy out of a barrel.
-So how can i get the most accuracy out of my barrel? The most important thing is to make sure your are using the right size paintballs. To small and it makes your gun less air effieceint because air will just flow past the ball. To big and the ball might break in the barrel. This is the main reason why the Smartparts FREAK barrel system is one of the most accurate systems. There are many other barrels that let you change their inner bore size by twisting them. One other key factor in accuracy is how consistant your gun is. If your gun is chronoing in at 240fps and the next shot is 280fps then your shots arn't going to be very accurate. This is one reason why some poeple prefer nitrogen over Co2 because it is much more consistant. Another big thing is to make sure you don't skimp on paint, a low quality paint will have deformations and more of a size difference from round to round, both of these things will derease your accuracy.
-The main thing barrel friction does is increase gas consumption, in a barrel with more friction, there will be more resistence to accelleration, and so it will take more gas to accellerate the ball. The main factors in friction are the length of the barrel that touches the ball, and how smooth the barrel is. A barrel that is stepped (Freak, Boomstick, ect) has a second portion that is a larger bore to reduce friction.
What barrels do i recomend?
1)Lapco Bigshot/Autospirit- Very accurate and will shoot almost any size paintball with good accuracy. It also doesn't break very many paintballs. Personally i have used over 10 cases of paintballs through my 98 and have had no barrel breaks. One other advantage is that it is only $50, which is half the price on the boomstick. The only drawbacks is that it is louder then most other barrels except for the flatline. I really don't care. The Lapco Autospirit is the same barrel as the bigshot but in a smaller bore size. The bigshot is .689 and the autospirit is .687
2)J&J ceramic-Good accuracy and quiet. The main feature of the ceramic is that it can clean itself if a ball breaks and still maintain something like 80% of it's accuracy. Other advantage is that is it only about $30.It's not quite the accuracy of the boomstick, bigshot, or freak system but not much of a difference.
3)Dye Boomstick-Very accurate and quiet. The thing i don't like about the barrel is that your are paying $50 for the barrel and $50 for the Dye name.
4)Freak barrel system-Most accurate if sized correctly. It's quiet but it dependes on what tip you have on it. The Freak system is a 2 piece barrel and the back half is where you insert the barrel sleeves of the size of paintballs you will be using. The front half is known as the tip and you can have many different kinds of tips.
5)All American, very acurate and extremely quite.
-There are many different barrels that are good but I am only recomending some that I have personally seen and used for a while.
-A regulator is an upgrade that controls the presure of the gas entering the gun, which increases consistency. Regulators have a ratio of that tells how much of an input pressure change will be required to produce one psi of output pressure change, so say you had a regulator with a ratio of 400:1, that would mean that if the input changed 400psi then the output would change 1psi. Some regulators are "balanced" which means the input pressure does not effect the output pressure.
-Another thing to look at in a regulator is the recharge rate, a tanks recharge rate is how fast the reg can replenish the gas used in firing the paintball gun.
-A co2 reg is one that will is made to not freeze up, and to help block some of the liquid Co2. But co2 regs can also be used for nitro.
Regs I Recomend
1) Max flo 3000 - this is a "balanced" Co2 reg, that has a relatively fast recharge rate, though it cannot block liquid co2 as well as some other regs. the 3000 means that it can take up to 3000 psi of input pressure, this can be used as a primary nitro tank reg.
2) Max flo 4500 - also balanced, and with the same recharge rate as the 3000 though this does not work as well on co2 as the 3000, but it has an input pressure of up to 4500
3) Palmer Stabalizer - Arguably the best Co2 reg around, this is very good at blocking liquid co2, and has a ratio of 400:1
4) AKA Sidewinder - This regulator was specifically designed to have the fastest recharge rate around, in testing it was found that this was the only reg that could supply the excalliber during high rates of fire, one setback is that these regs work best around the 55-70psi range, a range few guns operate at.
-A double trigger allows you to use both fingers to fire, so its not as hard to pull the trigger, but it also gives a diferent feel, most prefer some kind of double trigger. Another advantage of double triggers is that you can use a firing techniec called walking on some guns, but that generally only works with electro's, and even then takes practice.
-There are several styles of 2 finger triggers, blade, stick, and standard. A blade trigger has one ridge at the bottom, a stick trigger has no ridges, and a standard has one ridge in the middle, and one at the bottom. Which one you like is entirely personall preference.
-Some people prefer the feel of a single finger trigger, but they do seem a little heavier.
-An expansion chamber is a upgrade that allows time for liquid co2 to change to gas form. this upgrade will increase your efficiency by reducing the amount of liquid co2 that goes through your gun. An expansion chamber will not help with nitrogen.
-Expansion chambers come in several different styles, there are single(1) stage, 2 stage, 4 stage, 6 stage, and 8 stage ones. as a genreal rule, the higher the amount of stages, the better a job it will do
-Some expansion chambers are just one large chamber and don't really do much. If you want a good expansion chamber for your money I would go with an ACI 6 stage expansion chamber.
-To install an expansion chamber on a 98 or 98 custom you will need to have a vertical adapter installed in your gun. This adaper lets you put a Co2 tank, expansion chamber, gas thru grip, or a regulator in place of the normal fore-grip. Tippmann sells expansion chamber kits for the 98 that come with everything you need to install it: expansion chamber, vertical adapter, stainless steal braided hose, loctite, and instructions. kits are about $50.
-To install an expansion chamber on the a-5 just screw in the expansion chamber into the vertical adapter like you would a Co2 tank or the bottom line hose. Then connect the gas line to the ASA adapter and to the expansion chamber.
-For a pro/carbine you first need to get a vertical adapter kit and then the expansion chamber of your choice. Or you can just get the expansion chamber kit for the pro/carbine.
-The prolite will not work with an expansion chamber. It's valve design is meant to have liquid Co2 get into it. If you put an expansion chamber on it, the performance will drop.
-This is a whole seperate grip frame for the A-5 only. To install it, remove the stock grip frame and put of the e-grip frame....It's as simple as that.
-The e-grip is a sear tripper and runs off of a 9 volt battery. It has many modes of fire which are adjusted by taking a half of the grip off and flipping some switches.
-The firing modes are:
Semi-Auto: just like the name says. Shoots one ball per trigger pull
Auto Response: Fires 1 shot for each pull AND release of the trigger. So every time you pull the trigger for a complete cycle it will fire 2 balls
Full Auto: Fires repeatedly for as long as the trigger is held.
3 Shot: Fires 3 shots per trigger pull
Turbo: Fires one shot per trigger pull until trigger speed is 5 bps. When the speed of 5 bps is reached, it fires on the pull and release of the trigger; just like auto response
-This is an upgrade available for the 98 custom and the A-5. If you have a normal 98 you might need some machining done to the body to get the response trigger to fit. The Tippmann proshop can retro fit your 98 to accept a r/t trigger if you send your gun into them. I believe some people can install the r/t on a tippmann pro/carbine and I have personally seen a carbine with a response trigger fire before. Although I don't think any company does this modification for the public.
-The response trigger boosts you rate of fire to a full-auto like statis but is still technically semi-auto. A response trigger uses the excess gas, that would normally just disapate into the atmosphere after firing, to force the trigger forward. If you hold the trigger with just the right amount of force (known as finding the "sweet spot") the response trigger will actually bounce producing a full-auto like effect that is still semi auto due to it still only firing one shot per trigger pull.
-Using a double trigger will boost the rate of fire when using a r/t and make it much lighter of a trigger pull, although many people who started using the R/T with a single trigger have to adjust to a double trigger before they can fire continuosly at high rates of fire. The sensitivity of the r/t can be adjusted via a do-dad in the right hand side of the receiver for the 98, and I don't know where you can adjust it for the A-5.
-The E-bolt kit is an upgrade for the 98 and 98c only. It may, like the r/t, have to be retro-fitted to a 98 because of the difference between the the recievers.
-The E-bolt is similar to the A-5 e-grip but it replaces the rear bolt with a pneumatic bolt.
-Firing modes for the E-bolt are:
Response: fires on the pull and the release of the trigger
Full Auto: 4 to 13 shots per second
Turbo: Semi Auto, goes to response mode if trigger speed is more than 5 times per sec.
Burst Mode 1: 3 shot bursts.
Burst Mode 2: 6 shot bursts
-The E-bolt cannot be used with a car stock, rear velocity adjuster, or any sort of rear cocking system, because the bolt operater thingy takes the place of the end cap of a 98 so they cannot be used with an e-bolt.
-In adition to the e-conversion, it also comes with a reg, which acts not only as a high pressure reg(the one for the normall input pressure) but a low pressure reg as well(the one that controlls the pressure behind the hammer) the E-bolt is very similar in design to the bko and the impulse, as it uses a single selinoid and a spring return ram.
-This kit replaces the valve, rear bolt, end cap, and main spring. The purpose of the kit is to make the gun more effecient on nitrogen or compressed air.
-The kit comes with a vertical adapter with "T" fitting, low pressure chamber, rear bolt (also the new bolt is rear cocking too), new main spring, new ported valve, and a quick disconnect stainless steal gasline.
Rear Velocity Adjuster & Rear Cocking (RVA & RC)
-A RVA allows you to adjust the velocity in the rear of the gun by changing the spring tension on the rear bolt. This controls how much air the the valve allows to come out.
-RC kits let you cocker the gun from the rear.
-A lot of this are combined into one kit.
-They are available for the Pro/carbine, 98, 98c, and A-5 (only the RVA for A-5). Some come with new rear bolt but the RVA's replace the end cap, and some RC's replace the bolt. They are pretty easy to install on any of the guns.
-There are many different kind of stocks. They are available for the pro/carbine, 98, 98c, and the A-5. They replace the end cap on all of the guns.
-Stocks give you a more stable firing platform which allows better accuracy. You hold them against you should just like a rifle or shotgun stock.
Here are some of the main stocks:
Black Point Engineering folding stock :This replaces the end cap and the main feature is it can be folded when you need a shorter marker. Avaliable for the Pro/carbine, 98, 98c, and A-5. They also sell a version that attaches onto the bottom of the grip like an asa or dropforward.
Car Stock: This stock is like the one found on the M4 rilfe used in the military. It is telescoping. Many manufacturers make this stock for the Pro/carbine, 98, 98c, and A-5.
Some people have reported that the ones for 98 and 98c wiggle a little.
Sniper stock: Solid, non-collapsable, stock. Made for Pro/carbine, 98, 98c, and A-5.
Gas through stock:This stock screws into and adapter that you can screw a Co2 tank into. It it used in conjunction with a remote and lets the gas go thru it and into you gun. Made for any gun.
Lapco Dropforward + Stock:This is a drop forward the also has a stock on it. Only for Co2 tanks.
Joined: 31 October 2002
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 10:32am|
Lucky I saved it ;)
What every Forumer Must
By: RebCPL and *Stealth *
This is a collection of rules from Me and RebCPL designed to help and guide the new and old forumers alike. They are two separate posts that have been merged together into one. They cover all info that is likely to be asked by new forumers. Me and RebCPL have a combined 4 years of exsperiance on the forum and have tried to cover every thing about behavior, and rules, in this thread…….
The following is by: RebCPL
I can't help but notice the influx of new players to our little forum. I'd just like to address them for a moment if I may, without this being considered spam.
First off, I'd like to welcome you all. I've been a member of the tippmann forum family for almost 2 years now. This place taught me almost everything I needed to know about the game, and I'm sure if you stick around long enough you'll be able to say the same thing. Beware though, this place is addicting. Spend enough time here and you'll understand what I mean.
A few quick pointers though:
I think that about sums up anything I have to say.....Welcome aboard, and don't worry about the apple butter dance......the Geneva convention has outlawed it so you're safe. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask, and your opinions are greatly appreciated on any matters.....except the sniper debates.....ignore those. When you see them, stop drop and roll.....because inside there are more flames than in the great Chicago fire.
Okay, that's enough out of me.....see you in the threads.
The Following is be *Stealth*
I have noticed a substantial upraise in; Spamers, Stupid posts, Foul language, Flaming, And repeated posts. This is getting to be extremely annoying, So I have decided to take the time to post this thread, there used to be a quite similar "pinned" thread about this but since the forum has change it has gone away. So here is my best shot at it.
Proper forum, Behavior, and rules:<- This applies to all new forum members and the regulars.
Spaming is truly a very annoying thing and something that all of us tend to do at one point or another. A thread is deemed spam when it is totally pointless and/or stupid. Please don’t try to be "cool" by making us all mad, spam not only slows down the forum, gives the moderators more policing work, and generally ticks us all off, but it’s a waist of time! Posting spam will lessen your chances of getting a promotion, Being respected, Or even being liked. It can also, in some of the more extreme cases, get you demoted or even banned. So if you want to be a productive member of the Tippmann forum please think before you post!
The following are some things that are likely to be deemed spam:
Now this is what you must keep in mind, you can make stupid replies to post and if they are funny they will not be deemed spam. A great example of this is Dredly, he is known for his spaming but at the same time he is a gold member……
Now speaking of a gold member:
"What do the stars mean" or "How to I get more stars." Those are extremely common questions on the forum, So I will tell you how to go about getting a promotion in this thread.
What you need to do to get a promotion:
You need to be a benefit to the forum, You need to make it apparent that you are trying to help people, You need be a "nice" forumer, You must have a good attitude, Try not to flame, Make good posts, The less you spam the better…… It goes on and on, Basically you need to prove to the Moderators that you are a beneficiary forumer. You must also complete the test’s that are involved in promotion, and the "apple butter dance" in BigAls tent. That is something I am not allowed to tell you about. Post count does not matter!
Promotions go in this order:
1 Star, standard member; This is what you start out as.
2 Stars, gold member, This would be your first promotion, and it would allow you to go into the "regulars" section.
3 Stars, platinum member, pretty much the same thing as a gold member but you get more respect.
4 Stars, Moderator, you can control the happenings of the forum.
5 Stars, Administrator, You are the forum god! There also is only one administrator.
Bear in mind also the you can be demoted to a guest which will give you 0 stars and the same amount of respect to boot.
Commonly posted questions or topics:
No one likes to see the same topic over and over and over again. This is a waist of forum space, and a waist of are time! More then likely, topics that have been posted before will be deemed spam, and as I said, you don’t want to be known as a spamer.
Posting common topics can easily be avoided be using the "Search button" which is located by the register and log in buttons at the top of your screen on the right hand side. People will like you more if they know you use the "Search button."
The accepted rule is to try not to flame, even the best of us eventually flame some one though. Flaming is when you insult some one’s posts or response. It is like picking a fight with some one over the internet (pretty stupid).
So try not to flame!
Make clear posts!
I don’t care who you are, if you join this forum you should be able to spell and write correctly. It can be mind numbingly maddening when you cant read some ones post because of their lack of intelligence. It makes you look stupid, people generally don’t waist there time trying to read your posts, and it hurts your chances for a promotion.
So please, proof read your posts, and make them clear!
Post your topics in the correct section of the forum!
More often then not, people post topics in the wrong section of the forum. This is not that big of a deal, but it really should not happen. It gives the moderators more work to do, and I am guessing they don’t like that.
Just take the time to figure out what section your topic should be in and you will not have a problem.
In most cases swearing is not accepted on the forum, neither is this kind of stuff $^%&. We all know what you are saying.
Porn is not allowed on this forum, don’t even think about posting stuff that concerns it!
I can not remember the exact specs for what your sig size should be under, but try to keep it small. Huge sigs just bog down the forum. Try also to just have one picture in your sig too. To put pictures in your thread consult the "forum code" link that will be to the left of the spot were you put your sig text into……
If you screw up the code and when you post it makes things all weird PM a moderator ASAP, and uncheck the "show signature" box before you post which is located under the box that you write your messages into.
Please refer to the thread "Sig size" in this post, It will tell you the specific dimension of post size.
If you can not say something nice, don’t say anything at all!
This applies to every one, and should be common sense!
Double posting is for the most part not accepted, and should only be used when you really, Really! Think it would benefit the forum in some way. Double posting is risky and should not be taken lightly……
IF you think some one deserves a promotion:
PM the moderators, we all work are buts off trying to get a promotion and if you could help along the way it would be greatly appreciated. I guarantee that a little bit of it will rub off on you ;0)
Remember, This forum is for helping people out!
Don’t flame people for asking a relatively n00byish question, That is what the forum is here for! Also concerning this; Though trying to help some one is admirable, don’t post if you don’t know what you are talking about. Instead of helping you could make it worse!
This is a family forum!
So please, try to watch the way you are acting or talking. There could potentially be youngsters watching!
Don’t mock, or insult the moderators
For the most part they do a great job on the forum, and guess what, they do it for free! It’s a bad idea to insult them, enough said…..
Don’t under any circumstances try to sell stuff on the forum!
Advertising products that are for sale on the forum is prohibited and not taken kindly….
Please don’t try to do it.
We hope this helps all you new formers.
Sincerely; *Stealth* & RebCPL
Edited by *Stealth*
One screw up and all screen names go
Joined: 16 February 2003
Location: United States
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 11:07am|
Q:How do I make my gun more silent?
A: You can't. Paintball markers are as silent as they are going to get. To make it a little more silent is to either buy a 32 Deg Whisper barrel or to have a closed bolt gun. That's it, end of story. Well, that or become deaf...
Q: What upgrade should I get for my gun?
A: It's all personal preference, but the first thing should be a barrel. 14" is a good size, but again, personal preference. The next thing should be a hopper. Get an electronic one, prefebly a 12v Revvy or an Empire Reloader. Ricos are good too, but I haven't seen a single deflection off of one. Only get an Egg 2 or a Halo if you have alot of money and a fast shooting gun.
Q: Does it hurt when you get shot?
A: Everyone's opinion is different. Some say it's a rubber band snap, or a towel snap or not at all. All I say is you get used to it.
Q: What gun should I get?
A: This is a touchy subject. It all depends on how much money you are willing to spend, how much you will play, and personal preference. I won't say anything except Tippmanns are good for beginers, Cockers are good for Pros...
Q: I have an air compressor, can I fill up my CO2 tank with it?
A: No, DON'T TRY IT. CO2 tanks are built to hold liquid, which is what CO2 is, not gas. The pressure would make your tank explode. Also, don't put CO2 in a Nitro tank, the CO2 would corode (eat away) at the tank, making it weaker.
Q: How do I get more accurate?
A: Accuracy is mostly user. It is also ball-to-bore match. A good thing to get is a barrel kit. Accuracy is also air put out and wind.
Q: How do I time my Autococker?
A: Milkman gave this link http://www.endlesspb.com/tech/timing.html
Q: My parents won't let me play paintball/ buy a marker. What should I do?
A: For playing, Bring them to a field, show them the refs, the chrono, and all the other safty things put into paintball. For the marker, do what you did to get your dog. Say you'll be responsible, won't shoot it without a mask, won't shoot people if they don't want to be shot... ETC. ETC.
Q: I just filled up my tank yesterday and haven't shot it, not it's out of air. WHAT THE?
A: You probably have a leak in your tank. Best way to test for this si to fill your tank, fill a tub and put the tank in a tub. If you see bubbles coming out of your tank you have a leak. It also might be a bad o-ring.
Q: What are the different speedball positions?
A: Front player: Gets as far up as possible and stays up there. Doesn't carry alot of paint, usually a hopper. Should be good at snap shooting. Shoudl also be very fast and small. Point is to get up far and stay in the game so the other team worries about you.
Mid: Usually the play maker of the game. They do the bunkering moves. They need to be good shooters. Usually carry a couple of pods on the field. After a few minutes or when most/all of their front man go out, they charge in. Depending on the teams play style.
Tape: Covers the tape line so the team doesn't get flanked.
Flanker: Goes up the sides to flank the other team.
Back: The big guns of the team: Carries A LOT of paint onto the field, only to walk off with less then a hopper. Also has the fastest shooting gun (usually) and the best aim. Point of them is to sweetspot the other team, relay info to the front players, and take out the other team.
Captain: To take the credit for the team.
Q: Are pumps really more accurate then semi's?
A: No, they aren't. That's a popular paintball myth. The facts are that the pump player is more accurate becasue since they have less paint, they have to make their shots count.
Q: What should I do when my flatline wears out?
A: What you do is send it back to Tippmann and they fix it. Flatlines usually won't wear down until 200,000 shots.
Q: How do I paint my marker?
A: This is courtsy of UT.
So you wanna paint your marker....
1.Steel Wool (optional)
3. Spray Paint
4. Clear Coat
5. Dermal (optional)
6. Tape (optional)
1. Field Strip your marker, take everything out so you just have your receiver halves.
2. Use either a dermal or steel wool to strip off all the paint off your marker (yes the stock tippmann black or silver paint) be sure to get UNDER the marker and the BACK of the marker (these are spots I almost missed)
3. Wipe down your marker with a Wet Cloth to make sure you get all the debris off of it, and to see if you missed any spot where some paint might still be.
4. Tape off your internals so no paint will get on the inside, cover all the holes and everything (this step is optional)
5. Spray about 3-4 LIGHT coats of primer. Let dry. Go back and see if you missed a spot and to be sure both receivers are completely covered with the primer.
6. Spray the spray paint on the marker, about 3-4 coats and let dry. Just like doing the primer but colored. Make sure you got every where on the marker. Make sure the coats are Light and smooth on both receiver halves… let dry
7. Now, Spray both receivers halves with some clear coat, make sure you cover the entire marker. Make the coats light and quick. This should make your marker look a little “shiny” and “smooth”… let dry
8. If your internals were taped off then they should look fine on the inside. If they don’t or you didn’t tape them off then get out your steel wool (EXTRA fine steel wool) or dermal and polish up your internals or just polish it up so the paint, primer or clear coat is gone.
9. Put your newly painted marker together
10. Show off
Q: What should I get, HPA or C02?
A: It all depends. Here are the pros and cons...
NITRO Pros: Good consistancy, great for winter.
Cons: Expensive, alot of places don't fill
C02 PROS: Everywhere fills it. Cheap.
Cons: You need an EXP Chamber to play in winter effectivly.
Q: Are pumps really more accurate then semis?
A: No. That is a common paintball myth. Only reason they seem more accurate is becasue when you play with only 10 balls at a time, you have to make your shos count.
More updates later.
Q: How do I become a better player?
A: Play play play, and PLAY! Also, play some stock class, limited paint makes you think more.
Q: How do I get sponsored?
A: This has been asked so many times... First, mail all the companies you know, preferbly paintball companies, but it doesn't have to be. Then you have to do stuff for them. Also wear your team jacket EVERYWHERE! Get your team noticed. Above all, good luck.
Q: What does the Flatline barrel system do?
A: The Flatline barrel system adds backspin on paintballs to give them a flat trajectory and distance.
Q: Why do I see all these cool forumers, like Bugg , keep saying <krl>?
A: <krl> has 2 meanings on our forum. One is a very powerful, and I mean powerful, power hungry, crazy mod, and the other meaning takes place of cuss words.
I'll try and add everyday.
Edited by Bugg
Joined: 24 December 2002
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 11:12am|
Excellent Post Bug!
You will not be Deleted!
I am Posting here, to "Reserve" a spot for Mods or whatever, in the Future...
Kewl Stickers http://graphics4.racingteam.com
Joined: 31 October 2002
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 1:50pm|
Ya junky, yours is almost two times the size of me and rebs, and ours looks to be the second biggest.
I cant imagine how long that took you, I bow down.
Bug, you have a reserved spot for a reason, not to make any more replies
Edited by *Stealth*
One screw up and all screen names go
Joined: 16 February 2003
Location: United States
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 2:20pm|
Good job on the post everyone.
Edited by Bugg
strike 1 11/24/08 language
Joined: 10 June 2002
Location: United States
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 2:38pm|
most of this was actually writted by Tblier at ttt.malachiforums.org
Here we will post various terminology associated with paintball. The subsiquent posts with more terminiology will be assimilated into this top post and then erased. This is to keep down the clutter and make it easier for people to read. It will keep it from going on for pages and pages that would make it less than desirable for people to read. Once your terms have been added to my origional post I will delete yours. Leaving only the one main post at the top. Thank you for your contributations!
This was origionaly created by Kyle in the Origional TTT Forums. And thought it would be a good Idea to bring it back!!
Nitro, CA, and HPA = Compressed Air or High Pressure Air. Regular Air compressed for paintball use. Usually works better than CO2 due to CO2's tendancy to get very cold and wear heavily on the marker. Though it is commonly called nitro, nitrogen is really hardly ever used, as it is almost 3 times as expensive.
CO2 pure carbon dioxide compressed for paintball use. CO2 containers are cheaper than N2/HPA/CA
Marker = Paintball gun
Hopper = Item used to hold reserve paintballs for immediate use with a marker. Usually sits on top of the marker.
Guppies or Pods = Small containers that usually hold 100 to 150 rounds of paint. Carried onto the field to reload the hopper when it gets low. they are carried in a harness (see below)
Crono or Cronographing = checks the speed at which the paintballs exit the barrel of a paintgun. Never to exceed 300fps (feet per second). some fields require it be under a lower speed than that
BBD - Barrel Blocking Device = Barrel plug, Barrel condom = Devices inserted in or covering the barrel to prevent paintballs from accidentilly exiting the marker. A safety device.
Electro = A paintball marker that requires some form of batteries to operate.
Revvy = A "revvy" is a brand of hopper called the Revolution made by viewloader.
X-Board, X-board is an added component to a Revy that makes it run faster.
cocker = a nickname for the paintball gun the Auto-cocker, made by WGP
Timmy, A nickname for the paintball gun called the Intimidator, made by Bob Long
Impy, A nickname for the paintball gun called the Impulse, made by Smart Parts
Dew Rag = A type of head covering to keep the sweat from getting in your eyes and fogging up your goggles.
6+1(ect) Harness = Refers to the amount of pockets designed for "guppies or pods" plus the extra vertical pocket that is designed for tanks. (also seen as 3+1, 4+1, etc...) the "+1" or "+2" ect can also be used to refer to pouches for pods that are on a different row
Choping = when a paintball gets stuck between the bolt and feed hole and the bolt breaks the ball
Burping or Jack Hammering = Happens when the air source attached to the paintball marker runs to low on air to create a full cycle of the bolt. When this happens it causes the gun to sound like it's "burping" and the bolt does not lock back.
Hit or Out or Dead-Man-Walking = This is used to let people know that they are out of the game and should not be shot at. These word(s) should also be combined with a BBD in use and arms/marker raised above head. Once a player says any of these things (even if the paintball did not break and leave a mark) the player is out of the game until the next round.
Over Shooting - to continue shooting once a player has been hit. This can accure when a player does not pay attentions to the sound and motions the player he is shooting at exhibits, this can be very dangerous and it is important that it is watched! also known as being lit up, liting up, ect.
blow back = a type of gun that uses a hammer to open the valve, the hammer is then "blown back" by gas from the vavle.
Closed Bolt means that when the gun is preped to fire, but the trigger has not yet been depressed the bolt is foward sealing the breach(In other words if when your gun is preped to fire you take your hopper off and look down the feed, you will see the bolt)
Open Bolt Is the exact opposite of closed bolt, When a Open bolt marker is ready to fire, the bolt will not close off the breach.
Edited by adrenalinejunky
strike 1 11/24/08 language
Joined: 10 June 2002
Location: United States
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 7:46pm|
still slowly filling these in, sorry for the wait
Accuracy: Fact and Thoery.
There are a lot of ideas flying around on the subject of accuracy. One problem however, is that the ideas seem to be backed up with only logic and no real proof. What I want to do is start by stating the facts about accuracy, and then move on to the varios major theories, and explain the logic behind them
Once the ball has left the barrel at a certain velocity and heading, from there 3 things will determine its flight path:
1. ball shape
2. ball spin
3. weather conditions.
Now obviosly we can’t controll the weather, so we’ll ignore that one
#1: Ball Shape
If a paintball has imperfections, the air will catch these imperfections moving the ball off course, this is one reason why paint is so important, the more round the ball, the straighter it will fly.
#2: Ball Spin
The spin of a ball will catch the wind, moving it in one direction and creating areas of low pressure, which will change the way the ball is moving, much like the way the flateline uses spin to stay higher longer. This is another reason that higher quality paint is better, the more round it is, the more uniformly it will touch the barrel, and the less spin will be imparted on the ball.
Consistency will also affect accuracy, because the diffent speeds will make the ball stay higher longer or shorter.
There are three major theories for what affects accuracy,
1. The facts and just the facts, nothing else contributes, not the barrel (within reason, obviosly a barrel COULD be made to give bad accuracy, but no barrel you will find on the market)
The logic behind this is that there is no reall reason why anything else would, why would barrel smoothness? Why would the marker? Followers of this thoery reject the claims made by those of the other too.
2. The barrel smoothness and making sure the accelleration peroid is long enough (at least 8 inches, 12 optimium)
The idea is that, well I’m not really sure, I think this is more observation than logic based, however, do not confuse observation for fact.
4. The pressure of the air upon the ball bends it out of shape, in adition to the facts, the way the gun/barrel deal with this bending out of shape will determine accuracy, so a lower breach pressure with a longer smoother accelleration time is better, instead of very high force at first and then low after that.
Stepped bore barrels and porting are often thought of as very beneficial under this theory too, but venting the pressure and allowing it to return to its normall shape before it leaves the barrels guidance, because it would only take a second for these imperfections to catch the air and through it off course.
The logic behind this is that a gun with a breech pressure of much over 80psi will acutally break a ball from the impact force of the air (as tested by AGD) so if most guns breech pressure is between 60 and 80psi(also from AGD’s tests) then wouldn’t it make sense that it would cause it to be warped from its orriginal shape?
Personally, I’m a believer of the third, which is more of an observation based than logic based opinion, but remember, don’t mistake observation for fact.
Edited by adrenalinejunky
youm0nt Lite ... and low carbs, too!!
Joined: 30 September 2002
Location: Neutral Zone
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 8:44pm|
DYE makes excellent barrels!!! I think DYE makes the best barrels. All DYE barrels are very accurate. They are pretty much exactly the same for accuracy, noise, and look. But, they are all made out of different materials.
It is made out of aluminum. It is VERY light. I have one. It is also very accurate. It is all black. But, you can get them in a wide variety of colors. I think the Ultralight barrels are the best. You can special order them to any bore size. They are usually around a 100 bucks.
The front is made out of black aluminum. The back is made out of polished stainless steel. It is a very nice barrel. All the great features of the Ultralight. But, it is heavier and polished. They are usually around 120 bucks. You can get them in any bore size to.
The Titanium Boomstick:
Has a black aluminum tip, and a polished titanium back. It is VERY light, Very stong, and VERY accurate. You can get them in any bore size. They are usually around 170 bucks.
Made out of one peice stainless steel. VERY heavy. But, it is also cheaper. It is just as accurate as the other barrels.
All DYE barrels are very nice. You can get them for just about any marker. You can get them in any bore size. THEY ARE EXCELLENT BARRELS!
I reccomend the Ultralight barrel to everyone! It is cheap, light, accurate, quiet, and black.
2010 Worst Luck award winner
Joined: 10 June 2002
Location: United States
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 10:21pm|
What is the difference between a scope and a sight?
A scope is something attached to the top of a rifle or marker....it's an optical tool that is used to ENHANCE your target, to better your visual acquisition.
A SIGHT, is one of two things.
A. It's either what is already mounted on the marker, essential for aiming, you line up the rear sight and the front sight, and you should be able to hit what's in front of you if you did it right.
It can also refer to something like a red dot sight, which is also mounted to a gun or marker. It does the work of both the front and rear sight, you look at it, and all it does is show you the target and where you're aiming. Theres no enhancement or magnification involved.
Edited by Reb Cpl
strike 1 11/24/08 language
Joined: 10 June 2002
Location: United States
|Posted: 29 October 2003 at 10:41pm|
finally, someone else who knows what thier talking about and thinks dye barrels are good, they seem to be treated like the plague around these parts, i don't understand it.
i think this will be my final space reservation. (unless i get a new idea of course)
Well, my player card says I’m an <KRL> !
Joined: 10 June 2002
|Posted: 30 October 2003 at 8:38am|
HOW TO POLISH YOUR STOCK BARREL
You’re done. Get another beverage of your choice and admire your work… Check out the shine by looking through it at a light.
There is always a post (ten a day it seems) of “What upgrade should I do to my new marker?”. The replies always range from barrels to drop forwards to expansion chambers and hoppers. That’s all fine and dandy, but it isn’t the first upgrade you should do to your gun.
The first upgrade needs to be in your head. Knowledge. You need to learn how your gun works. Nothing is more annoying to other players than somebody who always plays but never works on their own gun. They always ask others to fix their problems for them, having never taken the time to learn how it works.
One of the best ways to learn how your new gun works, and to actually make a BIG improvement in how well it shoots, is to polish the internals. This should be the VERY FIRST STEP to any other upgrades you may do in the future.
HOW TO POLISH THE INTERNALS
Polishing the trigger:
The trigger has a flat spot where the trigger sear sits on it. When you squeeze the trigger, it raises one end of the sear, which lowers the other end of the sear and the rear bolt is released. You want to polish this flat spot of the trigger. On most of the Model-98's and on the A-5's, the trigger is plastic with a metal cap for this flat spot. Don't bother doing anything to these types of triggers except the polishing described below.
Note: When you put everything back together, check to see if the trigger flops from side to side. If it does, make a small shim/washer out of the aluminum from a pop can and put it between the trigger and the lower receiver (over the dowel pins the trigger sits on). You may need a couple to get rid of the slop but don’t put too many in so things bind.
Carbine owners can replace their stock trigger spring with a trigger spring from a 98 or the SL-68II. This will reduce your pull from about 9 lbs. to around 3 lbs.
Polishing the trigger sear:
One end of the trigger sear rides on the flat of the trigger you just polished up. The other end is against the rear bolt. These ends need to be polished up too using the same method.
Note: When you put everything back together, check to see if the sear flops from side to side. If it does, make another small shim/washer and put it between the sear and the lower receiver (over the dowel pins the sear sits on). You may need a couple to get rid of the slop but don’t put too many in so things bind. This is easier to check on the Carbine series of guns since the lower receiver is separate from the upper receiver. On the Model-98 it’s more of a guess. A-5's seldom need any shimming. Keep your stock sear spring in place…
Polishing the rear bolt:
The trigger sear holds the rear bolt back until you pull the trigger. When you pull it, the sear will slid off a ramp on the bottom of the rear bolt and let it fly. You want this to be a nice smooth, crisp release.
If you’re so inclined and have a few bucks lying around, replace the rear bolt on your Carbine series gun with an Air-Tipps rear bolt. No polishing is necessary and they are 30% lighter than stock. Improves the cycling of the gun a lot.
Polishing the upper receiver:
With both types of receivers, clean it all with soapy water and rinse good. Put one drop of oil on each receiver half and rub it around with your finger.
After all this polishing (which will take a while to do right… A nice weekend project), go ahead and put it back together. This would be a good time to replace the end cap with an Air-Tipps RVA (my favorite). If you do this, back out the front stock velocity adjuster so it doesn’t block any air but is still securely in place. Some people take and cut the velocity screw to size so when it is inserted all the way in, it doesn’t block any air. On the Carbines, please keep any tension springs installed on the front velocity adjuster though. This is what keeps the power tube centered. Now you can use the RVA for adjusting your velocity.
Once you’ve assembled the gun, don’t put the barrel on. Put three to five drops of Hoppes-9 in the ASA and put your air on the gun. Shoot about 20 some times to work that oil through the gun then reattach the barrel.
That’s it! You’re going to see a smoother cycling gun, a crisper, smoother trigger release, and some increased air efficiency (especially if you installed the RVA). You’re also going to have to check your velocity with a chrono. Even without doing the RVA install or changing the rear bolt, you’ll probably see your velocity jump a bit after the polishing. If you did add the RVA and the new rear bolt, your velocity will be way off of what it was before.
ADJUSTING VELOCITY WITH A REGULATOR AND RVA
If I mention something you have or don’t have, I’m just referencing what I had on the Weed a few years ago while running Co2. It should also work with HPA. Here’s how I had it set up…
First, Take off the gas tank and barrel. Look down the breach at the power tube. Back out the front velocity adjuster so it isn’t blocking the power tube. Stick the barrel back on.
Back out the RVA almost all the way. We’re going for the low end first since that’s where it’s hard to adjust. At this point, it’s also a good idea to replace the drive spring with a fresh one.
Replace any expansion chamber you have on the vertical adapter with a gas-thru fore grip. It’s basically a hollow tube to store regulated gas (acts like an LP chamber). I got mine from Dash and he probably got it from Mike at County. Don’t know for sure…
You don’t need the gas-thru fore grip if you don’t plan on periods of fast shooting. All it does is keep you from getting “shoot down”. That’s where the regulator can’t keep up with your trigger finger and the balls start dropping shorter and shorter.
The gas-thru is connected to the valve via hose or macroline. Don’t use microline, it’s too narrow and will starve your gun.
The other end of the gas-thru fore grip is connected to the output of your regulator, again with hose or macroline. Mine was a WGP in-line and screwed into the ASA adapter. So the gas-thru fore grip was connected to the ASA adapter, which has the regulator, screwed into it.
Off the backside of the regulator was the connection to the remote (the nipple the QD connects to).
So now we know how the plumbing is run from the valve to the remote hose. It goes:
Valve---hose---Gas-thru fore grip---hose---ASA---Regulator---Remote Hose---Tank
Attach a fresh tank to the remote and turn on the gas. Check and fix any leaks.
Now comes chrono and tuning time and it takes a while. Patience… Once it’s done though, chronoing will be easy. This comes from Dash and it worked out pretty good for me.
Start with the regulator most of the way in (decrease pressure). Verify that RVA is most the way out. Take some blank shots (no paint in the gun for this part) and adjust the regulator out (increase pressure) so that the gun just operates correctly. You’ll probably start too low and it will sputter and not re-cock. Increase pressure until it just cycles ok. Use small turns when changing.
Go chrono the gun. You’re trying for around 250 with the RVA most the way out. If you’re way above 250, you’ll need to trim the drive spring some. Trim a quarter turn to a half turn of the spring at a time depending on how high you are is all you’ll need to trim. If you’re below 250, slowly turn in the RVA to increase the velocity a little at a time taking a 5 shot average. Like I said, you’re trying for 250 with the RVA most the way out.
If you reach the bottom of the RVA base and haven’t got to 250 (or the gun still sputters), then back the RVA screw out most the way again, and increase the pressure at the regulator a little bit (out to increase pressure). Just tweak it about ¼ turn and try and chrono again for 250.
This will take some trial and error. Keep increasing the pressure until you can shoot 250 with the RVA backed most the way out. Once you’re done and shooting 250 with the RVA out, you are running at the minimum pressure for the gun.
Once you have that working, chrono for 290 or so by slowly turning in the RVA. You should have no problems getting to this point. If you have the RVA all the way in and can’t reach 290 or so, back it out half way and increase pressure on the regulator again (remember, turn out ¼ turn to increase pressure) and chrono again. Slowly turn in the RVA to get to 290 or so.
By the time you’re done, you should have the regulator set and not have to touch it again. The adjustment on the RVA should get you to the high side (290 or so) for day play when it’s screwed in, and to the low side (250 or so) for night play when it’s screwed out.
I bring annihilation
and cheap red wine!
Joined: 10 June 2002
|Posted: 30 October 2003 at 10:43am|
Here ya go krl
One particularly interesting game is center flag. One flag in the center of the playing field and two teams starting on either side trying to get the flag and take it across the field to the other team's bunker (base). I really like this game.
Another variation is President's men. One person is the President and does not have a gun. He has 4 or 5 men around him that have to protect him for a given length of time.
Another variation is called Paris Island in which a 5 people have to protect the flag that hangs in the center of a triangle of forts, bases, and towers. A small group hides in these and tries to protect the flag. The other larger group has to get the flag 'off the island' or out of the triangle to a safe outside location. This game was invented by Mike Gomez (11 year veteran)and can be played at his field, Michigan Battlefield
This is an interesting game. Four predators are released into the forest to hide. Then the rest of the crew is sent in to find them. Once a predator is killed they are eliminated and have to leave. But if a Predator kills a prey, the prey player becomes a new Predator. Thus the object of the game for the Predator is to increase and proliferate, while the object for the prey is to kill all the predators. This can get to be pretty interesting, if the Prey don't have to check with a referee to become Predators. All a predator has to do is kill a few of the prey in the back of the pack and watch them open fire on their own teammates as they become predators. This can be abused, so it may be better to have the new predators check in with areferee first to be readmitted.
One bunny goes into to hide in a large forest, and bunch of other player's (hunter's)have to kill him.
Another capture the flag variation. If you get killed a teammate can tag you back in. This gets silly after a while. You have to defend and protect the killed player's so their friends don't tap them in.
One team must rescue a hostage from the other team and return him "home" unharmed. This game gets very interesting.
Kill the Leader
Each team must kill the other team's leader. Each team has to defend their leader. This can become interesting when a traitor is introduced to each side. One player is a traitor and can turn against his teammates, usually designated by the referee. However, adding traitors makes the game more confusing.
Run the Flag
This is another capture the flag variation. Two teams each starts with their own flag in their hands. They have to charge with their flags to the other teams base and hang it there. No need to go get the other teams flag, you (sorta) start with it. The challenge is getting there.
Two players are prisoners and are trapped inside a base. There are a few guards outside. The prisoners can only leave from a designated entrance. The guards guard that entrance. The prisoners' friends are on the perimeter waiting to recue their friends. The prisoner's have no weapons, the guards do. The prisoners' teammates can't fire at the guards until the guards fire at the prisoners. The object is to get the prisoners out without anyone getting killed. The guards succeed if they kill anyone.
Get the Bands
Every player for himself, and each player has an arm band. When you eliminate a player you take his armband away and he dies (leaves). When time runs out the player that has the most arm bands wins.
Two teams line up in straight lines facing each other, can't move. Fire at each other. If get shot must lay down. Winning team has last players standing.
A few players are in a building with small holes in it. Fifteen minute time limit. All other players must kill the two or three players in the prison. Either by shooting their guns, shooting high up and landing them, or from other towers far away. The two in the prison just have to stay alive.
This is a nice game to end the day with. A few terminators (2-3) have a duct taped X on their chest. To eliminate them you must hit them on the center of the X. The Terminators run around and eliminate the other 20 players. You can also add the requirement of having to shoot the Terminators once in the center of the X and once on the back. We tried this once, and the Terminators wasted everyone! It is a nice way to end the day!
Edited by nouseforaname
WARNING! Doesnt Play Well With Others..
Joined: 15 January 2003
Location: United Arab Emirates
|Posted: 02 November 2003 at 4:02pm|
i got these links frowm a action pursuit games magazine, and figured i would post this so people can buy stuff, find feilds and information.
Equipment & Supplies
Fan Sites & Galleries
Baldwin County Paintball Brigade
Information/ Resource Sites
The Paintball Club of Virginia Tech
1st Kenton Commandos
some additional links...
Edited by paintballer44
United States Marine Corps
What am I doing here? I don't even play paintball anymore!
Joined: 29 December 2002
Location: United States
|Posted: 04 November 2003 at 10:41pm|
Some of this post may have been more applicable to the old forum, but I'm too lazy to edit it out. :-)
Guys, I have a problem. Or, rather, we have a problem. I've seen cock fights that were more tame that these forums. Now, before you hit that beloved "back" button, or stick the goose on me (whale), hear me out on this. You see, everyone has been addressing the issue of this forum going in the pooper as a whole, yet they never try to resolve it. And, in order to resolve an issue, you need to break it down. This is what I'm attempting to do. I do not intent for this thread to get locked anytime soon so please keep the replies tame and use the PM system if you feel the need to drive home that fact that "U R A TOOL!"
flaming- I put this as the first point as it seems to be the most common. I've seen everybody from mods to guests do it. Ever heard of "constructive criticism?" Just because someone disagrees with you or points out a flaw in your theory (as I'm sure I will see), take it as a good thing. It is not an attack on you personally. Most flaming originates when people take it as such. Remember when you first came here? Remember your first flame? I got mine courtesy of Enos_Shenk on my first post, first reply, in T&O. I know everyone remembers because it is a form of wakeup call. It lets you know the high horse has gotten sick and it's time to get off. Now put yourself in a new forumer's shoes. They post thinking they made a good point, then here comes Johnny-hates-you and decides that he needs to treat them as someone who just graduated with a major in paintball physics and theories. Flaming not only starts fights, but it makes you look bad as a person. It makes you look like the bully on the playground, and it opens up a challenge to anyone willing to vie for your position. Flaming leads to more flaming, leads to more flaming, leads to meltdown. It's like when you hit someone in the shoulder, then they hit you back a little harder, then you throw an elbow, then it escalates into one big mess that results in guesting-which starts even more arguments which starts more flaming which spawns further guesting... it's a cycle. Let's stop it.
language- despite popular belief, this is a family forum. We make fun of people being 10 or 12 yet that is a large percent of the forum population. People are complaining about the language speed ballers use, and yet we use it too? Cursing makes you sound stupid. I cannot believe that a 4-letter word is the most explanatory one you know. You think you are driving you point home by emphasizing a sentence or two with choice words yet your point would be taken much more serious if you actually use normal English. (see Webster's Dictionary for the correct definition of *ing) Not only do you avoid the flaming for it (see above) but you look incredibly more "uber" by using phrases such as SebastianBlack's "fewer fingers than are necessary for a peace sign."
save the forum- This forum is free. I repeat, free. There is nothing forcing the mods to moderate the tippmann forum and tippmann doesn't need it. It's not like they have the ideas forum so they can see their "untapped resources." This is a free service, meaning it can be shut down at any time. I'm afraid that, with the way it's going, it may be. If you want to have a tippmann forum, keep it to a respectable level of sanity. I cannot emphasize that enough. This is our forum to keep running and this is our forum to lose.
general behavior- If you have to think for longer than 5 seconds on the appropriateness of something, it probably isn't something you should be saying. In regards to arguments- they are fun. A good debate is always something fun to participate, just make sure it isn't a debate on the "gayness" or someone. It's OK to agree and disagree, that's what makes the world go 'round. Also, please help out. There is nothing shameful about raiding the new player forum. I plan on starting one soon and I'll lead a group if anyone wants to join. Help out. That's what started this forum and that is what can save it. We want people with questions and we want to answer them in a respectful manner. If you want to go up a rank, help out. It was no coincidence that about a week after I raided the new player forum I got a gold star. There are benefits for helping out. Please do so. This forum is what brought me into, and helped me through, the game of paintball. Let's share our knowledge and help those that are in the same position that we were in in the not-so-distant past.
In short- keep it sane. If you want this forum to improve, do it yourself. It is hypocritical to complain about this forum "going downhill" and not doing anything yourself. So please, help solve my problem. Help solve your problem. Let's make this thing right again. Let's bring it back to the glory days! *runs off holding hand in the air, cheering, in triumph*
Edited by Fatsplat99
Your respectability is like a bank account. Sometimes you put in large ammounts other times you make withdraws. It can never go up without hard work and it only takes a second to remove everything
Strike 2 for drug related images
Joined: 22 March 2003
Location: United States
|Posted: 06 November 2003 at 8:52pm|
These are topics you should avoid posting if you want to gain respect:
Paint flame throwers
"Which barrel is best?"
Any idea that is useless, redundant, idiotic, dangerous, illegal, etc.
No posts about how to make a paintball silencer. Silencers are ILLEGAL. No bragging about vandalism with paintball guns. It doesn't make you look cool, it just makes you look like an immature idiot who doesn't care if the sport gets banned.
Paintball is one of the safest sports there is. Let's keep it that way.
Also, when you're posting, please make an attempt to use even a minimal amount of proper grammar. Noone can help you if they can't read your posts.
Joined: 06 January 2003
Location: United States
|Posted: 07 November 2003 at 7:21pm|
the uber tactics please read this do not avoid reading this because its long it will help newbies and experienced players alike improve their game!!!!!
1) When you are walking toward/through a field to your starting point, keep your eyes on the field, so you can see advantages. Look for possible places that would make good offence and defense points. Try and take in the overall layout of the field so that you can make better tactical judgements.
2) Before you run to that “perfect bunker”, look around. Make sure that it is not a sole bunker in the middle of an open space. Look for trees/bunkers near it that you can advance to and fall back to if needed. This is always a good tactical decision. This allows you to always keep your options open, without being giving away your plan of action to the other team.
3) I know this one may sound dumb, but it works (although it is a tactic for bigger games, where you can not see the enemy when you start). When you are not spotted yet, try to crouch while walking and move more slowly. This is simple brain chemistry…the human brain notices movement immediately, and it draws a humans eye almost subconsciously. While doing this, try and keep some kind of cover (be it a tree, bunker, whatever) between you and any enemies that can see you. This not only provides cover, but also has added advantage of stealth…if they haven’t seen you yet, this way they won’t until its too late. A slow moving object will draw a lot less attention than someone darting across the field. Of course, there are some side rules to this…you must be somewhat camouflaged (it won’t work if your wearing some kind of super bright color). And one last thing, if you start taking fire, run to a bunker or some other kind of protection!
4) Here is a big mistake that newbies make all the time over and over. Try and remain as quiet as possible, and DO NOT FIRE UNLESS YOU HAVE A CLEAR SHOT. I have seen many many newbies waste hoppers full of paint, just to keep one enemies head down. They not only waste paint, they also give away their position to anyone who doesn’t know yet. This tactic is very useful. It is simple human nature, if under fire…duck and don’t come out. But, when you hold your fire, the opposition thinks it is safe to move, then they will try and advance, they come out into the open, then you can hit them when they are least expecting it!
5) This tactic is for bunker to bunker fighting. It is best when you are protected from other opponents, and you only need to be concerned with one opponent in a bunker, but is good in almost any situation. Usually, bunker to bunker fighting is very dull…pop up, fire, duck…opponent pops up, returns fire, ducks…and usually it goes on like this until someone makes a lucky shot. When you go to return fire, stay up (but not revealing your whole entire body like an idiot so he can shoot you) instead of ducking, but stop firing while keeping aim...The opposition thinks you have ducked, and when they pop up to return fire, “Blam”, you got ‘em!
6) When at all possible, stay low. The object of this is to minimize the physical area exposed to your opponent, therefore making it harder for them to hit you.
7) Avoid tunnel vision, keep your eyes and ears open. Tunnel vision is when you focus totally on one bunker/enemy. This not only limits your perspective of the overall game, but leaves you wide open to be flanked.
8)Know your enemy and know yourself.” This is more geared toward intermediate/experienced players. What I basically mean by this is know what your up against, and know what your capable of. Try and learn the advantages and dis-advantages of the most common paint guns, and you will be much better off. You need to know if your up against someone with a PGP (maximum accurate range=about 100) or someone with a flatline (maximum accurate range=about 300 feet). People who know when to fight and when not to fight are victorious.” a. Now for a bit of common knowledge. The average paintball gun has a maximum range of about 200 ft, this includes almost all paint guns, but there are exceptions. The flatline for example, uses a trick of aerodynamics in order to make their paintballs fly further. Most handheld pistol paint guns, such as the Nelspot 007, PGP, and PT Enforcer have very short barrels, and are only accurate to a range of about 100-140 feet, in ideal conditions. b. People will say “But he has a longer/better barrel, he can fire more accurately/further then me!!” This is a bad comparison. The laws of physics prohibit his paintballs from traveling further then yours, as long as all variables are the same. Chances are, he has his fps (feet per second, the velocity of a paintball) set higher than yours, or his barrel is better matched to that particular paint. Now, as to the accuracy component, this part is true to an extent. Almost any aftermarket barrel added to a gun will improve its accuracy over a stock barrel (stock barrel = barrel that came on gun). But remember A GUN IS ONLY AS ACCURATE AS THE PERSON SHOOTING IT!
9) Identify what you are shooting at. I have seen people shoot their own teamates many times during games because they were really far up the field. I have also seen newbies empty entire hoppers on inanimate objects, because in the moment of action, they thought there was something moving near it!
10) Have fun! Many people forget that paintball was designed to have fun! I have seen far too many people get too steamed over a game, swearing, yelling…etc. It's just a game! And on to this subject, don't cheat! Not only is this severely un-sportsmanlike, but it ticks other people off! And chances are, when they see you do this, they will light you up HAVE FUN!!! hope this helps you
Edited by fatty
Joined: 18 October 2003
|Posted: 08 November 2003 at 2:57pm|
This right here is courtesy of Evil Elvis and i belive it belongs here
These can be used in large games, Scenarios or the timeless "Seize the Flag" Games. Security patrols are made my favorite kind of defense: a strong offence.
Security patrols should be stealthy as possible. Unlike Combat Patrols you do not know were you will find your opponent. Stealth also will protect your headquarters or flag station since you tromping around the woods will attack all kinds of unwanted attentions. You should designate a route, which will give you quick access to your base in case you need to boogie back. A route with plenty of Cover & concealment is a must. Here are some key elements.
Got your squad and Team all pumped up and ready to roll? Here are a few tips on movement. To do so I will go over some Patrols.
In this kind of patrol there are as with every patrol 3 very important elements;
The Pointman should be the first with "Eyes on Objective" he would then signal a halt. At this time the patrol should face outboard (away from the middle) and get down on a knee. Find Good cover. The Patrol Leader should come up and have a look at the objective. The Patrol Commander should exploit any weaknesses in their defenses. Then the Patrol leader would go back and get the assault force and by using the Run & Gun Method or a counter ambush (using the Rabbit trick to lure them into an ambush) eliminate the opposing force.
Run & Gun
The most effective way to use a team in Paintball to me is to use Hit & Run tactics. This will allow you to set the pace of any battle. I will go into how you can develop your teams Hit & Run tactics
Originally posted this on the Old Forum. I am reposting it so that newer members can pick up a few pointers. WE have to remember these will be our future team mates and competition. The level of help we give them will determine the level of competition on the sport of paintball in years to come. I invite others to post HELFUL post so that newer players can benefit from this.
The first thing a new player or a novice player must do is Master his marker. You should know your gun better than anybody. You should know disassembly, cleaning & oiling, cleaning out ball breakages, reloading and the most important your weapons safety features. To many newcomers are more worried about Paintjobs and the latest "Upgrade" that they start to dump all their money into their guns which cuts into their playing money. Then you have a Clone of the most popular trend gun and no money to play with. Work with your gun use it stock until you get to know how it handles during different situations such as rapid exchange of paint or those slow well aimed shots. Get to see about how many shoots you are getting from your tank and how easy is for you to reload.
In between your field trigger time practice what we Marines call IA Drills. Immediate Action Drills are drills you practice over and over. Some of these should include how to clear a breakage of balls in your chamber or barrel. Others should be reloading drills. In these drills the first step should be SEEK COVER after that you can go about what you need to do. Reloading, Clearing out a Jam should not take more than 10 seconds. Here it sounds a short time but when under fire, it's an eternity. These drills will make you a better player. IA drills can be done anywhere from a field area, to your room, remember practice makes perfect.
Work on getting your marksmanship up. Set up static firing ranges. Static means you stand and shoot at a target at different ranges. See how your shot groups are at different ranges. After that you might work on a movement fire range. Do this over and over until you are confident on your shooting. Sandman has some excellent ranges on his page.
On this one I will go over how to minimize your Target Profile. Your Target profile is how much of a target of a target you make your self to your enemies. Let's start by this when you are engaging people you should always seek cover. Here is where many go wrong, Cover and Concealment are two different things. Cover is an object which will provide you with protection from enemy fire. Such as a Tree, a Ditch, Wall or a bunker. All the above will stop paintballs from nailing you. Which is why Cover is so important. Concealment is something which will hide you from enemies, Bush, Shadows, Branches, ect ect. Concealment doesn’t have to be cover and most of the time it's not. Concealment is just a way to hide from your enemies but it doesn’t necessarily protect you from enemy fire. So make sure you understand this. I will go further into this when i go into camo later on.
The nest thing in minimizing your Target Profile is your shooting posture. Yes the smaller a target you make yourself the better off you are. About a month ago I played against this played who had been playing about 6-7 months of woodsball. He was quite a marksman and knew his marker. We were battling in medium woods. he kept placing about 10-12 balls at the tree I was in while i would return fire with my double taps. We went like this for about 2 minutes each moving toward a better cover & shooting position. We must have beet about ten yards away when I stopped re-acting to what he did and really looked at him and I spotted his flaw and raised my Tippmann as he gave the tree a new paintjob. I exhaled and on the natural breathing pause i squeezed off another set of double taps ... he was out seconds later. He held his hands up and said " Out.. great shoot" now you say did I "snipe" him ... no .. did i had a extremely lucky shoot .. no. I spotted his flaw he fired his Tippmann Right handed so his right elbow was sticking out horizontally. It was a nice target and from ten yards an easy target. I shoot with my elbows tucked in. I also shoot in the kneeling position making me a smaller target. Now after years in the grunts I recommend kneepads. Whatever bit of ease I can bring to my knees it's worth the money.
You should only shoot from the standing in paintball if you can't see your target in the kneeling. The kneeling should be your standard firing position since it's more stable than the standing. Shooting from the standing causes you to muscle the weapon into your target. Which will make your natural point of aim off. In the kneeling your arms are better-supported ad makes a heck of lot harder to shoot than a standing man. Then prone position (laying down flat on the ground) I use if my first couple of double taps didn't hit my target and I am on a open area (how ever unlikely). The disadvantage of the prone is that it's harder to get up and break contact once your position has been compromised. That why I prefer the kneeling after you eliminate your opponent you can then regroup and get the heck outta dodge (of course in a tactical manner don't break bush unless you are ambushed by a overwhelming force)
My next post will speak about Fire & Movement. The game of paintball is a combat simulation, we must admit this the point of the game is to eliminate your opponent with a paint filled projectile. We can all agree on that. The key to doing this is Fire & Movement.
Old Soldier preaches about the stale paint trade fad which seems to be spreading across the nation. Paintball Markers with high ROF's had moved the less experienced crowd to find cover and shoot at anything that moves or resembles a human being. Oldsoldier is right the only way you win games is by taking ground and eliminating your opponent. Sitting there hoping for that lucky shot out your 8+1 paintball load is not going to get you anywhere.
In order to win you must make an opportunity, which means you have to take that first aggressive movement. Now let's not confuse aggressiveness with stupidity. Move only when you have cover fire (that means that your team mates will shoot at your opponents position to get their heads down or their attention on them) and have already selected a destination with good solid cover. You must not hesitate, you must reach in you and get there as fast as you can. This will minimize your exposure to enemy fire & save your teammates on how much paint they spend. Take a quick second to orient yourself, know were your teammates are and more important were your opponent are. Now you have closed the distance between you and your enemy will greatly increase the chance of you hitting your target. Now you start to engage and cover for your Teammates who count on you to cover for them as they move up. This is what we call in the Marine's Fire Team Rushes. This takes practice it will not come overnight but it will pay off.
Let's review that in a simple terms; when are in a battle look ahead of you for better firing positions on your enemy. Look for better cover to protect yourself. Look for height over your enemies it's harder to shoot a target uphill than it is to shoot downhill. Look for an angle on your opponent Most Bunkers only provide front protection. Try to get around them for the easy elimination. Pick a new position before you stand and rush, believe ten seconds is an eternity when paint is flying all around you. Keep the Momentum, do not allow the enemy to bog you down can't move forward this way ....? Well Break Contact ( Stop the battle by fighting by Rushing away from your enemy keep the discipline of cover fire and rushes to new cover set up to cover buddy) Do not allow your opponent to dictate the Tempo of the Game. you must be in control of when and who you engage. Once you have some distance decide were to set up a hasty ambush or maneuver around their sides and hit them again or a always effective Hit & Run or as we call it in my unit "Run & Gun". As with all my post these things must be Practiced over and over to get the team chemistry working...
Cover & Concealment
Cover & Concealment are two different things that will greatly improve your game.
Cover is anything that will stop a paintball. It doesn’t have to hide you but it will definitely protect you from paintballs. Fallen Logs, Bunkers, Thick Trees and even dirt. Cover is your best friend...it will keep you safe as long as you us it wisely. If you just camp there your cover will become the noose you hang yourself with. Cover should be used to protect you while you fire and pick your next location.
Concealment concealment is something which will hide you from your enemies but not necessary stop paintballs. Bushes, Tall Grass, Shrubs ect are examples of Concealment. Concealment is best used for ambushes and Observing your enemy. Make sure that when using Concealment you pick a few "Fall back" positions incase your discovered and the paint start flying.
Ok in an ideal world the best position would be a mix of Cover & Concealment. That way you can be both unseen & protected. Now the minute you stop moving in a paintball game and wait for someone to walk up so you can ambush them and don't move ... then read my Fire & Movement post to see what you'll be facing.
My advise to you is "Adapt Overcome & Improvise"
Ambushes and Counter Ambush Reactions
A part of woods play revolve around the ever effective Ambush. The purpose of an Ambush to inflict the maximum level of eliminations to the enemy team in the fastest possible time. The success of an Ambush revolve around the following factors;
Ok how do you react to an ambush? theres two ways to do this.
Once again Terrain and Number of remaining team members will dictate what other course to take
Now for whats mine. Upgrading and Customizing.
This may have been kinda posted before here but I'll give me take on it.
When it comes to upgrading and customizing the longer i keep playing the more I notice a trend. Players just starting out want to buy a list of upgrades so long they could put santa to shame. When i started out i was this way too. I heard this and that about all these upgrades and bought my first gun with a Response Trigger. Though by no means is the r/t a bad upgrade but after a month of two of playing I learned that the r/t wasnt what I needed. I developed a much more paint conservative game. The r/t was basically useless to me and I had wasted $100.
So on to my advice. To most new players i would say buy your first gun stock and leave it that way for at least 3 months or more. Thats a time when a new player starts developing their style of play. You will spend your first couple of months watching others, taking advice and orders and making mistakes. During then you will start leaning toward a certain style of play. Thats why you should wait to upgrade. If you upgrade before you get to know your gun and your style of play you will end up with alot of $50-$100 dollar do dads that you have no use for. The only thing you should spend a signifacant amount of money on after your gun (assuming you have played once or twice with a rental to make sure paintball is really for you) is your mask, no see= no fun
While playing you might decide you play best when taking a lower profile. flanking the enemy being sneaky. So what good would a $100 r/t and loader that feeds 50bps do you then? just ur money wasted.
Or you might be more of a head on kinda guy were a high rof and loader would be exactly what you need.
and even a new barrel shouldnt be bought immediatly. Because when it comes to barrels there is the flatline, and there is everything else. I also came extremely close to buying a flatline. I was at the point of ordering when a friend pointed out to me that my style of play didnt need a flatline.
So just remember, buy stock, Develop your style, upgrade to compliment
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