Uber FAQ: Please read before posting

Customowner's Revised Forum Dictionary

ASA- short for air source adapter

Avatar- the picture under your name, a animated or still picture used to bring attention to yourself

BEagle- Short term for the Brass Eagle Paintball Company

bump- When you want to send a post back to the top of the page(like if it's a good post but no one viewed it or if it was a question that was never answered), and you don't have anything worthwhile to say but you want to let people know you aren't spamming

 Cocker-short for he Autococker marker

Flame- an insulting post used as a noun “That was a got flame” or a verb “I’m going to get Flamed

Guested- had their account taken away, they cannot post using it.

IP ban- their IP address has been banned from the tippmann website, they cannot post on the forum with any name, unless they buy a different IP from their service provider

<KRL>- the name of a mod(see below) who made his name by cracking down on swearing, this symbol/word is often used instead of a curse word

1337- leet, derived from elite, used as a verb mostly “Tat gun is 1337” spelled in "1337 text" an Internet created artificial language

LP-short term for Low Pressure kit

Paintball gun-common for Paintball Marker since gun is used more in the real world

Mod- someone in the Moderator Group ( 4 stars)

Mother- nickname for the tippmann forums

Newbie - also  newb n00b newbzorz ,One that is new to something. For the forum it is most likely a new, un-informed paintballer.

Old Blue- the forum two versions ago. It's where a lot of the "regulars" first saw posting action

Old Men and Heavy Weights (OMHW) - It's the unofficial Tippmann scenario team that some of the moderators and a few of the plats are members of.

Owned-when a great insult or victory has taken place, verb “you got owned” or Exclamation “owned"

PB-short term for pshyco ballistics product

PM- Private Message, a private post to another member can be found in inbox

pwned- used as a spin-off of owned, used when someone has been reprimanded and/or insulted.

Reg-Short for  Regulator paintball prt

Revy- short for a electronic hopper using 12 voltage batteries

Rico- Short for the Ricochet Paintball product or company

Roxorz (also roxors and Roxcorsz)- good, cool, "thats the roxorz!)

R/T- short term for Response Trigger product

sig - a forumers signature used like an avatar to get attention

Sniper- a pseudo curse word around here, don’t say it, it may result in flaming or insulting

Speedball-also Speed, Paintball played in a private field with bunkers, Teams start at different ends. Usually “Capture the flag”

stab- Short term for the palmer stabilizer product

sticky- a thread (see below) which has been made so that it stays at the top of a page

teh-"the" it is a mistake that became normal because some fourmers type that way.

Thread- 1.either the end of a barrel where it screws into the marker

2.a topic of discussion on this, or other, forums

Tippy-Short term for Tippmann product

tool- a not nice thing, an annoying person, or a suck-up, generally an insult noun “Dude, you’re a tool”

tricked out - an upgraded paintball marker

Uber- good, great, cool, as in "that’s the uber (barrel, gun, etc.)"

Woodsball-also woodzball or just woodz, Paintball played in the woodz and natural surroundings

x-chamber- short for the expansion chamber product, expansion chamber allows the airsource to turn the liquid to gas 

All about the R/T

The Response Trigger System is a Drop-In Kit that Tippmann Pneumatics sells for both the 98 (Custom or Model) and the A-5. It is a Drop-In Kit for the A-5 and 98 Custom. But, the Model 98 needs to be milled for it to fit in right. Tippmann will take your Model 98, give you 98 Custom Receiver Halves, Along with the other parts needed, and will give you an R/T for $120.

How it works:

When the 98 or A-5 fires, there is excess Gas/ Air thatr is not used to propel the Paintball. Usually, that is just extra Gas/Air and is vented away. But with the R/T, it uses that excess Gas/ Air to power a little Piston that is located behind the Trigger. So, after everytime you shoot/fire the Paintball Marker, the R/T will take that excess Gas/Air and it will send the Gas/Air to the R/T's Piston. When that happens, the Piston will fill up with Air and it will push forward a little pin which will re-set the Trigger. It will do it fast enough so you will still end up having force on the Trigger. So, you will pull it again. That is called "Trigger Bounce".

What is all included:

98: The Response Trigger for the 98 will come with a new R/T Power Tube, R/T Hose (Cocker 3-Way), Banjo Fitting, Knurled Adjuster, and R/T Piston.

A-5: The Response Trigger for the A-5 will come with a new 3-Way Banjo Fitting for both the Cyclone and R/T, Knurled Adjuster, Knurled Adjuster Fittings, and R/T Piston.

FAQ:

1. Does the R/T use more Air?
No it does not! The R/T uses EXCESS Air to power itself.

2. How many BPS can it shoot?
Most R/T's will shoot around 14-15 BPS. But, some well tuned R/T's will fire at 16-17 BPS.

3. Is it Full Auto?
Not really. It just "Bounces" the Trigger. It is still 1 shot for each Trigger Pull.

4. Is it Tourny Legal?
It all depends. Some Feilds allow it, some dont. Go and ask them.

5. My R/T is not working. Whats wrong?
It could be a few problems.

 1. You are putting too muich force on the Trigger. Therefore, the Piston cant Re-Set the Trigger.
 2. There is something blocking the R/T's Air Hose.
 3. The R/T is not adjusted properly.

6. My R/T is open on the end!!
The new R/T's have an Open "Face" on them.

How to install the Response Trigger:

98:
1. Dissassemble your Marker.
2. Remove the Valve Bolts and Re-Move the Power Tube.
3. Remove the Air hose or Verticle Adapter from the Valve/ Power Tube.
4. Get the Valve out of the Power Tube. You can lightly tap the Power Tube on a towle untill the Valve slides out.
5. Insert the Valve into the NEW Power Tube.
6. Take the right Receiver Half and a Nail-Set or Hole Punch. There is a little Groove/Slot about the Grips. Knock out that little "Plug"
7. Install the R/T Piston.
8. Put in all the Internals including the Power Tube. Dont forget the Valve Bolts!
9. Screw on the Banjo Fitting and Knurled Adjuster. Connect the Air Hose.
10. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

A-5:
1. Dissassemble the Marker. Take off the Grip Frame.
2. On the Right side of the Grip Frame, there is a small "Notch". Break that little peice out. You can use your fingers.
3. Take apart the Grip Frame and put in the R/T Piston.
4. Put in the new Trigger Plates. (If included) Some have them, some dont....
5. Take apart the Marker. Install the Knurled Adjuster and Fittinginto the bottom right hand corner of the Marker.
6. Put the Marker back together.
7. Take off the old Banjo Fitting (Connected to the Cyclone) and put on the new one.
8. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

For more info, check out the Tippmann Systems Page on www.tippmann.com

-tgaffner

At the request of my fellow forumers, here you go. If I missed something, PM me and I'll add it, but I think I got most of it.

I have seen a recent increase in people asking "What upgrade should I get for my marker?" Well, ultimately, the choice is yours. You should put on your marker what you want on your marker. However, I have compiled a list of all the various upgrades that you could get for your marker. A-5 upgrades are listed first, followed by 98 Custom upgrades. And some of you will say this should be in Upgrades and Customizing, but I wanted all the new players to see it.

A-5
-New Barrel- Adds accuracy and air efficiency
-Flatline Barrel (If you like)- Adds 100+ feet to the distance of your shot.
-E-Grip- Firepower upgrade. Allows semi-auto, auto responce, turbo, three round burst, and full auto
-Response Trigger (R/T)- Another firepower upgrade. Allows very fast shooting by a piston firing the trigger forward as user squeezes
-Double Trigger- Allows use of two fingers, allowing for faster trigger pulls.
-Drop Forward- Brings weight of your air source down and forward, centering weight of marker.
-Rear Velocity Adjuster (RVA)- Allows easy control of velocity via a -dial in the back.
-Low Pressure Kit- Allows operation at a lower pressure, greatly increasing efficiency.
-New Front Grip- Improves grip, mostly for looks.
-Expansion Chamber- Gives C02 more room to expand from liquid into gas form, increasing efficiency and reducing risk of liquid C02 getting into marker.
-Shoulder Stock (Solid, Collapsable, Folding)- Allows bracing of the marker against shoulder, stabilizing shot.
-Raised Sight Rail- Brings sights up higher, allowing for easier aiming, and also easier installation of dot sights, scopes, etc.
-High Capacity Hopper- Holds 220 rounds instead of the standard 150 rounds.
-Military Simulation Upgrades (Too many to list)- When taken to the extreme, will make your paintball marker look so much like a real gun that you will have to look closely to be able to tell.
-Fake Supressor- Looks only. And muffling or deadening of sound is strictly coincidental.
-Combat Sling- Allows for easier carrying of marker on long hauls.
-Universal Mount- Allows the mounting of any ASA adapter onto A-5.
98 Custom
-New Barrel- See above
-Flatline Barrel (If you like)- See above
-Electric Hopper- Agitates balls in hopper, allowing for faster feeding at high rates of fire.     
-E-Bolt- 98 Custom equivalent to the E-Grip.
-R/T- See above
-Double Trigger- See above
-Drop Forward- See above
-RVA- See above
-Low Pressure Kit- See above
-Gas-Thru Foregrip- Brings bottomline through the foregrip of the marker, which is turned into an expansion chamber.
-Powerfeed- Allows for faster feeding.
-Rocket Cock- Covers open slot where cocking knob is, protecting internal components.
-Grips (Sticky Grips, etc.)- Allows better gripping of handle.
-Expansion Chamber- See above
-Direct Feed- Allows for faster feeding,
-Military Simulations (Again, too many to list)- See Above
-Raised Sight Rail- See above
-Shoulder Stock- See above

This list is small, because Pro/Carbine upgrades can be relatively hard to find.
Pro/Carbine
-New Barrel- See above
-Electric Hopper- See above
-Double Trigger- See above (Only problem, the only one I have seen has no trigger guard)
-D-Feed System- Allows for faster feeding
-Expansion Chamber Kit- See above
-Vertical Adapter Kit- Brings air source directly into bottom of marker, with no bottomline.
-New Cocking Knob- Strictly for looks
-Shoulder Stock (With RVA option)- See above
-RVA- See above
-R/T- See sbove (I believe it takes custom work, but it is a sight to be seen)

Added

-HPA- High Pressure Air, or Nitro. Greater number of shots, better consistency.

-Regulators- Regulates gas flow into marker

-Remote Lines- Brings weight of tank off marker and onto your back, or wherever you want to keep your tank. Also acts as an expansion chamber.

This is important:

Layman wrote: If you read this, bump/up it to keep it high up, it might actually save a life... Remember these things can kill you, or someone else On a safety note: Don't put anti-siphon tubes into your own tanks. There have been two deaths recently due to tanks flying off the valve. One of them is a confirmed home done anti-siphon tube. Glenn Palmer of Palmer's Pursuit Shop had this to say:    "The only thing that I saw wrong with any of the hardware was: There were no signs that the valve had been tightened sufficiently into the tank and there was no sign of chemical bonding materials having been used at the last installation of the valve. However, the Safety vent hole in valve neck was plugged with an unknown substance. Another contributing factor was that the anti-siphon tube was installed in such a way as to require that the tank/valve be tightened fully into the ASA to put the tube in the appropriate position. IMHO, the hardware itself is not the issue but the handling of it is. Apparently, the complete rig was bought off of the internet. As is. Sherriff's dept. investigation not yet complete and there has bee no word about who may have done the anti-siphon modifcation."     Then his follow-up, "...it appears that the young fellow that owned the equipment had in fact been doing some modifications on his own (including the anti-siphon) and not bought the equipment 'as-is' over the internet, as he had originally claimed." UPDATED LINE IN RED Tom Kaye, inventor of the AutoMag's and owner of Air Gun Designs wrote, "Lock tight IS NOT suposed to be used on tank threads, they are suposed to be TORQUED on with a special strap wrench." Hydro Testing So what is a "hydro"? Hydro refers to "Hydrostatic Testing", or more commonly hydro testing. Well, what is it? In layman's terms (sorry) it means they take a bottle, put it under water and inflate it to a predetermined pressure. Depending on how much water it displaces, it will pass or fail. For a much more indepth answer click here. OK, so everyone keeps talking about the hydro date on your tank... but where is it??? HPA On a High Pressure Air tank (HPA) it's pretty easy to see. See the "11-97"? This is the date of manufacture. The date this Air America fiber wrapped tank was made was November 1997. According to the DOT this tank must be hydro-ed by November 2000, again in November of 2003, and so on until the tank is fifteen years old. After the fifteen year, at this point in time, fiber wrapped tanks are to be trashed. The steel tanks are able to be used until they no longer pass hydro. Wrapped tanks must be hydro-ed every three years, unless they are on a five year hydro like the DOT#10915. If you have a tank with that DOT number on it made before May 2002, your first hydro is on the third year, then you go to five. This exeption will expire on April 30th 2004, so unless they renew it will be back to the three year tests. Carbon Dioxide (CO2) On a CO2 tank there is also a hydro date. Many CO2 tanks have it stamped into the bottle, although some companies have started printing them on the sticker label with a clear retest date. Different manufacturers put them in different places. You can find them near the bottoms like this one: Some manufacturers put them on the bottoms like this one did: Or, more commonly you'll find the dates stamped into the top of the bottle near the neck like these guys did: The tanks above are the CO2 tanks more commonly found amoungst players. These tanks require a hydro test every five years. It is more cost effective with a CO2 tank to replace it, than to hydro it. There are also fiber wrapped CO2 tanks that have the same label as a HPA tank. On these you read them and test them the same as you would with HPA tanks. Here is a direct cut and paste of Picasso's post on the dates subject, "...." denotes a removed piece within the body: "Steel or Aluminum Tanks: -Under 2 inch diameter, no hydro required. -5 year hydro testing for any that are greater than 2inhces diameter. -No lifetime, as long as they pass hydro. There are scuba tanks out there from the 1970's still in use, legally, due to current hydro testing and inspections. Carbon Fiber wrapped tanks (HPA): -15 year lifespan from First Hydro/Manuf Date. After 15 years, they get a hole drilled in them. Gone. -All Carbon Fiber was 3 year Hydro. However, now, the DOT has allowed some to be 5 year hydro. You have to look at the DOT number (such as DOT 10915) to see if it qualifies. Some tanks produced after a certain Date, that meet DOT, are now 5 year hydro, if they are before that date, they still get a 3 year Hydro, the first time. So, with HPA tanks, its a little confusing, check with the manufacturer. Using one of my tanks as an Example: It is a Luxfer Tank (brand). It is "DOT 10915" which has been granted a 5 year Hydro exemption. BUT, this exemption has a Beginning DATE requirement. My tank was manufactured/first hydroed MAY 2001. This means it is too OLD to qualify for the 5 year Hydro, it must be tested Next month (May 2004). Once it is tested, then it falls into the 5 year testing requirement sey forth by the DOT exemption..................A lot of 20 oz. Co2 tanks hit the market about 5 years ago, when they became popular, now they are hitting their first hydro requirement date. I suspct that Feilds and Shops are going to be checking dates and condition of tanks a lot closer.    To find the date on your Co2 tank, it is near the Neck, and is stamped into the tank. You'll see 1800 which means max working psi rating (Your burst disc will be an 1800 psi disc so that the tank never exceeds that rating).    You will also see a set of numbers like 08 02. This means the tank was manufacture/hydroed in August (08) of 2002 (02). It will be up for a hydro test in 08 07, which is 5 years, because it is steel or aluminum" feaksoftware wrote: Good info, but where do you get it hydro'd? That's the only thing left to know. You can get any tanks hydro tested through any local "dive shops". Ask your local fields and pro-shops where to get it done. Check your local yellow pages under Welding Supplies too. firefighter3431 wrote: hears a little info for the people that aren't near a paintball shop or a welding supply shop.....    if you want you bottles hydroed check with your local fire dept.   the air bottles we use have to also be hydroed ... they would probalby give you the company name and a phone number to see if they would hydro your bottles... Hopefully this will answer any and all possible questions about hydro dates.

The Flatline Barrel System

Ok, so lets get this straight.  The Flatline barrel is one of the most controversial barrels that Tippmann owners have the opportunity to get.  On the forum, people are asking left and right which barrel should I get?  The Flatline or something else?  Also, questions like "What kind of paint works good in the Flatline?"  Look to have all those questions answered here.  So, lets start it off.

What Exactly is the Flatline?

Ok, so here we go.  First and foremost, we must realize that the flatline barrel is the only barrel guarenteed to give you more distance then any other barrel.  Hands down, the Flatline really sends those paintballs flying.  But why?  Its simple.  The Flatline barrel is actually curved, so that when the paintball is shot, the barrel creates backspin on the paintball, allowing the ball to kind of hover through the air in a straight line, hence the name "Flatline".  If it wasn't for the curved barrel, the Flatline would just be another $100+ hunk of junk. 

Assembly of the Flatline

This is a major difference point between the Flatline for the 98, and the Flatline for the A-5.  Since the A-5 is so much easier to take apart and put back together, the Flatline can be installed on the A-5 in under 2 minutes, going at a nice and slow pace.  However,  since the 98 makes the owners pull out the toolbox to field strip, the flatline can take a bit of time to install.  For the 98, you will need to remove a reciever half and take off the old rear sight.  Put the reciever half back on, and leave the 3 front bolts off.  (NOTE!!! Please make sure that the orange ball latch stays in place during this process...Nothing is worse then finishing the installation to find out that your marker is useless because the ball latch isn't there.)   With these bolts out of the way, you can screw in a adapter for the barrel, and then finally put on your shroud.  After that, insert the barrel, Tap it in with a rubber mallet, and finish by tightening all the bolts back up.   Whew....The A-5 gets the easier job

So...What Kind of paint should I use?

Paint is just as much trouble as you make it.  Once you have this barrel, you will more then likely have to change paint, because the Flatline only shoots good with small or medium bore paint.  Usually on the box it will say what size the bore is, but if it dosn't, there is a chart on the forum that will let you know.  Please use the search icon and look it up, its very useful.  A few brands that I have personally used are Draxxus Blaze, Midnites, Marbalizers, PMI Premiums, RPS All-Stars, and Zap.  These tended to work very well in the Flatline, as long as the ball quality was good, and none of the balls were offshapen or cracked.

Other brands that work well are:  Evils, Big Balls, and Hellfires.

What should I get, the flatline or a Bigshot/J&J/A-A?

Before you ask again, these questions are all preference.  They are usually asked because the person is not informed about the barrels themselves, or they are looking for the most widely used barrel.  This post is only to inform the readers about the Flatline Barrel, however, I can give some Ideas on when its better off not the get the Flatline.

If you are a woodsball player, the Flatline is calling you.  The Flatline just works great in the woods because it keeps you from shooting up in the trees, and can take away many tree bunkerings from opponents.  Compared to other barrels, the flatline sweeps the field in the woods.

If you play speedball, chances are that you might not want the flatline.  I play speedball with my flatline, but im not happy with it.  Sure, it shoots across the whole field, but now since the field is smaller, so do all of the other players markers.  Taking away this advantage, and only being able to rely on the Flatlines Accuracy, you no better off then the other players.  The flatline gets in the way when your trying to get in a bunker, it takes longer to get the gun around a corner to reture fire, and pretty much it just plain gets in the way.  Most people say that the flatline isn't good for speedball because you can't lob balls over bunkers.  This is true, but however, you can turn the marker sideways, and the ball will actually curve, allowing you to sometimes shoot people from around the bunker.  This neat feature however, dosn't save the flatline in speedball.

98 Flatline VS. A-5 Flatline

This has become the most frequently talked about thing at many fields, and here on the forum.  The answer, though it may worry some 98 owners, is that the A-5 Flatline is just a better performer.  The Accuracy variations arn't as noticible, its WAY easier to clean, MUCH easier to take apart/off, and its easier to install, since its just a one peice snap on/off, while the 98 has to get the barrel lined up correctly, and then get the shroud on. 

If you can, try shooting both barrels.  Even if you hate the A-5, you will notice that the A-5 flatline is just better, plain out.

Trouble-Shooting the Flatline

(June 4, 2004)  After reading over this topic again, I realized that I didn't cover some of the problems that most people have with the flatline.  So, since I have nothing better to do during 6th block, i'll list them here.

My Flatline Won't Fit...what do I do?
Ok, first things first.  Make sure that you are following the directions on the instruction manual, and made sure that you are doing everything correctly.  Look for small mistakes that you may have missed.  Many people miss the fact that the rear sight on the 98 has to be removed before the shroud will fit on top.  Just don't sweat it, relax, and FOLLOW THE MANUAL. 

Ok...My Flatline is installed...but what FPS is right for it?
This is one of the most critical aspects of the flatline besides what paint you're using.  If you have your fps too high, you risk breaking a ball (bad news) or having your paintball have more movement towards the end of flight.  Another thing that can happen with a high fps, is that your paint can actually be spinning so fast that it actually curves upwards, and goes up in the sky.  If you EVER see your paint curving upwards any, its time to lower your fps. 

If you keep your fps too low, you will start to affect the benefits that the Flatline gives you.  Too low will make the paintball's distance much shorter....thats pretty simple to understand...right? 

A good fps to keep it running is in the 260-280 range.  Please remember, that since the Flatline has this range to work with, ALONG with your choice of paint, its going to be extremely picky.  Velocity spikes are a nightmare for Flatline users, and you will want to get rid of that as fast as possible.  If your using any source of Compressed air/Nitrogen, with a good regulator, then you will get much more effeciency out of the Flatline.    Basically, Velocity jumps/spikes=

HELP!!! My paint is curving!
There can be multiple reasons why this is happening, I'll try to help with each one. 

• Installation...You didn't tap the barrel in with a rubber mallet, or anything for that matter.  This may sound like a stupid and pointless thing to do, but trust me...its VERY importaint.
• Installation (pt2)  The barrel could be crooked.  A-5 users can skip this one, as you don't have to worry about it.  Make sure that the porting at the end of the barrel is nice and even when you set it.
• Paint...Your paint could be...well, not good.  Small to Medium bore paint works the best for the Flatline, as stated earlier.  Make sure you don't skimp on paint, as it could come back to haunt you later.
• Velocity...Check your velocity.  You want it between 260-280, and make sure that your velocity isn't jumping/dropping horribly. 
• Check Yourself...you actually may not be shooting straight.  Note that the barrel is curved.  Now note that when you turn the gun, the barrel does not adjust itself so that it will continue to shoot level.  The barrel will rotate with the gun, and if the gun is rotated, then your paint will spin and move in the direction that the laws of physics says it should.  Make sure to keep your gun as level as possible.  Please note that turning your gun sideways WILL let you curve balls around bunkers...not as useful as you would think though.

Overall

So, overall, the flatline barrel adds distance to your shot.  Note that it adds distance, W/O mentioning any added accuracy.  Its true that the Flatline does not give you the best accuracy.  However, I believe that the ablility to shoot much farther can in some cases outweigh that one flaw.  I hope that this post will help viewers that needed to know any information about the Flatline barrel.  If you do have any questions about it,  please, feel free to ask me.  I will try my best to answer it.

Some one told me to put this here.... well i hope it helps:\

Ok this was wrote by Dr. David G. Berkebile from paintball x tremes magazine... hopefully I’m not doing any thing wrong here like plagiarizing if I am tell me... thanx

Foods that increase energy!

Playing paintball requires the right equipment. This equipment is needed to be competitive in the game and to help protect the outside of your body. But how do you improve your game from the inside? Equipment for your inside does not mean swallowing a pair of batteries or a few paintballs, that's for sure: it means getting the right kind of nutrients from certain foods! Taking care of the inside of your body is just as important as the right equipment is for the outside. Eating the right foods can help you become a better paintball player, and have a fuller and better life!

When it comes to choosing the right foods, most of us fall short. Eating the wrong foods can cause fatigue early during a game, the inability to think clearly and/ or shoot straight. In addition, choosing the wrong foods over time can cause us to gain weight making us sluggish and even depressed! With a majority of our society being overweight isn't surprising that eating wrong foods can cause us problems such as diabetes, heart disease, and high blood pressure. Most paintball players are young and haven't been affected yet, but for some of the veteran players the types of problems are showing up.

What do we need to eat daily?

Vitamin, Minerals, and Phytonutrients:

Fruits: raw 4-5 pieces a day and/or freshly squeezed fruit juice 3-4 glasses/day (12oz.).

Vegetables: 6-8 servings a day raw or lightly steamed. Vegetables and fruits are high in fiber**.

Protein: chicken and/or grilled/steamed fish, 2-4 servings per day. Fish is preferred over poultry due to the Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFA), which are essential Fatty Acids (EFA) that we need daily. PUFA consumption should not exceed more than 10 percent of total caloric intake.

Small portions of very red meat with no visible fat should be eaten. Red meat should be consumed only a few times per week or less. High red meat consumption (especially high in saturated fat) has been linked to causing high blood pressure, obesity, and coronary artery disease and colon cancer! Therefore, limiting your intake of red meat would be wise.

Complex Carbohydrates: Eating whole wheat breads and pastas, wild rice, couscous, polenta, and bulgur: 6-11 servings a day. Good source of fiber** and contains amounts of protein.

Complex carbohydrates and protein combination: Peas, kidney beans, lima beans, lentils, and navy beans: 2 servings of these would be the equivalent of one serving of protein and two serving of complex carbohydrates. These types of beans also are high in fiber**.

Fats

Monounsaturated Fatty Acids (MUFA): Low to moderate amounts of olive oil (extravirginolive oil recommended) should be consumed with fresh vegetables and salads. Avocados and nuts are also other forms of MUFA's. Recommended intake of MUFA's is between 10-15 percent of total caloric intake.

Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFA): See Fish above.

Simple sugars: Honey should be used as the principle sweetener and sweets (simple sugars) are eaten only a few times per week.

Fiber: Doctors recommend getting between 25-35 grams of fiber a day.

Various foods and their fiber content:

 Order of food lay out: food, Serving, Calories, Grams of Fiber

Apples: 1 medium, 81, 3.5

Prunes: 3, 60, 3.0

Raisins: 1/2 cup, 106, 3.1

Raspberries: 1/2 cup, 35, 3.1

Bean Sprouts: 1/2 cup, 13, 1.5

Broccoli: 1 cup, 40, 4.4

Brussels sprouts: 1 cup, 56, 4.6

Carrots: 1 cup, 48, 4.6

Parsnip: 1 cup, 102, 5.4

Spinach: 1 cup, 42, 4.2

Baked beans: 1/2 cup, 155, 8.8

Dried peas: 1/2 cup, 115, 4.7 

Kidney beans: 1/2 cup, 110, 7.3

Lima beans: 1/2 cup, 64, 4.5

Lentils: 1/2 cup, 97, 3.7

Navy beans, 1/2 cup, 112, 6.0

Bran muffin: 1 muffin, 104, 2.5

Crisp bread, rye: 2 crackers, 50, 2.0

Spaghetti: 1/2 cup, 155, 3.9 

All-bran: 1/3, 71, 8.5

Bran Chex: 2/3, 91, 4.6

Corn Bran: 2/3, 98, 5.4

Raisin Bran-Type: 2/3, 115, 4.0

**Dietary fiber is very important to keep not only your bowels moving, but also to keep our bodies healthy.

So how do you know what the right foods are?

Here's a list (in no particular order) of fruits and vegetables to be eaten on a regular basis to help with feelings of depression, fatigue, and to increase energy. It's recommended they be eaten raw and not cooked.

Red tipped lettuce

Onions

Dandelion greens               

Lemons

Cauliflower  

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Carrots

Collard Greens* 

Cabbage

Yellow Peppers

Yams  

Watermelon

Pears

Apple

Tomatoes

Apricots

Spinach*

Pineapples*

Kale*

*Do not eat dark green leafy vegetables or pineapples if you are on blood thinner medication or have a bleeding disorder

The night before and the day of a game you still need to eat from all the food groups and adding a little more complex carbohydrates is recommended to keep the glycogen levels (energy supply in the muscles) high. Proper rest one to two days before competition is important for building up high glycogen levels.  

Make sure to follow these suggestions for your pre-game meal plans. Be sure to eat the meal three hours before an event. This allows enough time for the foods to be digested. Choose a meal that's high in complex carbohydrates. Eat only moderate amounts of protein. Protein takes longer to digest than complex carbohydrates.  High-protein meals may cause more urine production, which can lead to dehydration. Limit intake of fats and oils, becasue they take too long to digest. Restrict simple sugars (sweets) in foods. Sweets can cause blood sugar levels to change rapidly leading to less energy. Avoid foods and drinks that contain caffeine. Caffeine causes the body to increase body output, which can lead to dehydration. A full bladder can be very uncomfortable.

During the game drinking watered down fruit juices or sports drinks is a quick and good source of energy. In addition, drinking plenty of water to keep your body hydrated is very important.

Thirty minutes after the game or tournament is finished, eat a well balanced meal containing protein and carbohydrates. This is important for building muscles that have been broken down during game play and replacing glycogen levels. It usually takes 2 days to replenish the glycogen supply that has been depleted from playing paintball.

Participating in paintball increases the amount of calories needed. When you train, you increase muscle mass relative to fat. As muscles increase in size, they burn more calories. Playing paintball can easily increase the daily calorie needs of teens and adults over the recommended 2,000. The amount of food needed depends on the athlete's age, sex, weight, and activity level. A larger athelet requires more calories are being burned during short periods of time may be greater due to short bursts of intense activity that occur in completion. Further, the activity levels and calories being burned vary among players due to the positions being played. Players playing back may not need as much calories as those playing front.

Remember to put as much emphasis into the inside equipment as you do into the outside equipment. What you eat daily provides you with the nutrients and energy to sustain you over a longer period of time. In addition, eating the right foods helps you to live a healthier and longer life. Keep playing hard and eating right.

Again this article is from paintball 2 x tremens magazine and was written by Dr. David G. Berkebile

Hope it helps!!!!!!!!!!

Buying your First (or next) Marker

You've seen the question time and again.  What marker should I buy?  Should I get a Tippy or a Spyder?  Should I get a Timmy or a Cocker?  These are not easy questions to answer for a number of reasons.  I had originally posted this same article over on the Ariakon forums but since another user here posted my article on upgrading your marker and it was well received, I decided to post this here and let you folks have a go at it as well.  Anything any of you can add to this please feel free.

Where to begin!?

Well, believe it or not you are already on the right track.  With the Internet, information about various markers is right at your fingertips.  However, before you go diving into that, let's take a look at you.

If you are the first time player, you will have different marker needs than someone who has been playing for a while.  First, being the new player you may not know all the different types of paintball that you can play.  It is HIGHLY recommended that before you go out and purchase a marker that you try the sport at your local field and rent a gun for a few times.  This gives you three things:  One, will you like the sport enough to justify spending a few hundred dollars on the equipment? Two, what kind of paintball is played at your local field? Three, what did you like or dislike about the marker you rented/tried?

If you answer no to the first one...well...what can I say?  Either you had a bad experience or you just don't like the sport.  However, the next two questions are a little more difficult to answer. 

What do you play?

Obviously this is a big factor in your purchase.  For instance, if all you have near your home are speedball fields, then a SIM-4 Elite probably isn't going to be for you.  Also, if you have a lot of Woodsball type fields near you, then the Nemesis might not be the marker for you. 

How do you know this?  Simple.  Look around at what other's are using and see why they chose their markers.  Ignore any comments that go along the lines of "It looked cool" (exception to this are MilSim markers like the SIM-4 and SIM-5...with MilSim Scenario games looks actually is a big part of it but more on this later), "my buddy had one", or other undefinable reasons.  Things to listen for are items like reliability, ease of use, maintenance, cost, performance, where they got it, and general owner satisfaction.  Why these are important we'll discuss later.

Also important is to find out (ask if you need to) what they DON'T like about their marker and listen for markers that they may want to get.  Now, take that last part with some caution as many players will tell you what their dream set up is and not what they really will be buying next.

Yes, you in the back with your hand up?  What about the Internet you say?  Well, right now isn't the time to go there yet...don't get ahead of the class.

What YOU like.

Now that you've found out what type of paintball is played by your home and what others find as being important factors in their decisions we move on to what you liked about the markers you have tried.

First, when you try a marker try to record it's name so you can remember it later.  Also, remember that the first marker you try is going to be the "best one ever" until you try others so try to put some variety in their if you can.

Next, how did the marker feel?  Was it comfortable?  Was it too heavy?  Did you think it was too long?  Did it have issues or was difficult for you to use?  Was it unbalanced?  These are the things you want to ask yourself.  You will probably find that there were a couple things you would have changed about the marker and other things that you really liked.  Start making a list of these likes and dislikes so that you have a better idea of what options you want on your new marker.

Unless you  have a money tree...

Or are independently wealthy, you are going to have a budget for your new marker.  There is nothing you can't have on a paintball marker, but all it takes is money.  Also, don't forget you're going to need things like an air tank, hopper, mask, pods, squeegie...well...a lot of other stuff suffice to say if this is your first marker.  (Obviously people that have already been playing a while already have this stuff)  Regardless, you will only have a set amount to spend and this is going to limit your decisions.  Figure out how much you can afford before setting off to look for your marker.

To the 'NET!

Now that you have an idea of what features you want your marker to have and what your budget is, it is time to hit the Internet. 

Hold on now, it's not time to start posting...it's time to start reading.  Your goal here is to start finding markers that have some of the features you want and then find out how much they cost so  you can see if they fit into your budget.  You may have found one or two particular features you MUST have.  Start by using Yahoo or Google to search for those key features.  You'll find that the more you read and the more your research, the more you'll know what it is you're looking for.

Take notes or bookmark pages that are relevant to your search so you can find them later.  Nothing worse than remember you read a valuable post somewhere and not remember where.

Soon, you are going to start to get an idea of what markers will fit your budget.  You may have 2 or you may have 20 but either way, you now have a starting point for your shopping.

Personal Preference

Paintball markers are kind of like clothing...everyone has what they like.  One thing to take into consideration when getting your first marker is that you HAVE to like it. Once you buy it, if you want to sell it figure that you'll get about half what you paid for it.  So buying something that you like is important.  This is where looks come in to play.  You may like the way one marker looks over another and there is nothing wrong with that.  Don't be afraid to decide between two different markers just because one looks cooler than the other...just so long as both markers are in your budget and have the features you want.  Nothing is worse than getting a cool looking marker that isn't at all what you were looking for performance wise.

Also, while we're talking about performance, understand that there are some markers out there that do not perform very well but are very inexpensive.  Like I said, I'm not going to name names, but if you do your research, you'll see which markers I'm talking about.  Your best bet is to stay away from these no matter how good of a price they have.  Trust me, nothing is more frustrating than going to play paintball and spending the majority of the day trying to make your marker work.

BUY BUY BUY

Not  yet, actually.  There are a couple things you want to do before you buy.  First time buyers need to consider a couple things before they get their first marker.

1. Buy New.  As a new paintball player, you don't know what too look for in a used marker.  I know it is tempting to hit E-bay to get that great deal, but unless you know what questions to ask buying used is best done when you have some marker owner experience under your belt.
2. Maintenance.  Your new marker is going to require maintenance so if you look at a screwdriver and cringe, you're going to need some help.  This means it may be better to get the marker at your local shop.  Sticking to markers they carry will ensure that someone can help you maintain your marker and service it if you have problems.  If you happen to have friends that are into paintball, getting a marker that they are familiar with might be something to consider too.
3. Your local shop.  It is important to take this into consideration especially as a new player.  Even if you get your marker from mail order, chances are that you will be going to your local shop for air, paint, and probably option parts for that marker.  Many shops won't touch a marker that wasn't bought there so that's something else to consider as well.  And while we're talking about upgrades, unless you don't mind waiting for parts in the mail, buying a marker that your local shop supports with option parts is something to consider as well.
4. Mail order.  Generally speaking I love mail order.  Waiting for parts to arrive makes every week feel like Christmas.  No lie. :) For me, I went with a marker I could only get through mail order because it was what I wanted (after much research) and for me it wasn't an inconvenience.  Also, I have a couple local shops that somewhat support this line (but very little) and found the on-line forums for the manufacturers (like Tippmann) very supportive and helpful.  This made getting this marker as my first marker a very enjoyable, and painless, experience.  But if you go this route you better be mechanically inclined and don't mind doing a lot of research so that you know EXACTLY what you are getting into.

K.I.S.S. (thanks to Armorer over at Ariakon for reminding me of this)

This is something for those of you who are still pretty new to the sport.  If you've never heard the term K.I.S.S., it stands for Keep It Simple, Stupid.  (No, not calling you stupid, it is just what it stands for.) What this means to the less experienced paintball player is you are better off getting a K.I.S.S. simple marker rather than something that requires a lot of knowledge to get it working right (Autocockers are one type that come to mind).

Here's why.  Like I mentioned before, markers need maintenance. Eventually, you are going to have to work on it.  After all, once you go out and play with it for the first time you are going to have to come home to take the marker apart and clean it.  Some markers require very little maintenance and if you aren't so mechanically inclined these might be a better choice for you. 

Realize that some things that makes some markers "better" than others are their complexity and their tolerances (how well the parts fit each other...tighter tolerances=more precision).  Both of these traits mean that these markers will fail more frequently IF they are not properly maintained. Tippmanns are perhaps the most trouble free markers on the planet when users fail to properly maintain them.  They are very forgiving in this respect.  Even so, it is good to get in the habit of maintaining your marker no matter how forgiving it may be.  Other markers such as Spyders require a better maintenance routine. With proper maintenance, any marker will be reliable.

In another part of the entire "complexity" issue are the aforementioned Autocockers.  Now, this is by no means picking on Autocockes but they make a very good example.  Because of the way they work, Autocockers have to be "timed" to operate at their peak efficiency.  From the factory they are set to work properly for the user but not at their absolute best.  Experts in paintball have probably written master's dissertations on the proper techniques to time a 'cocker.  Even experienced paintball players can be left frustrated on the sidelines by this experience.  If you are not the mechanically adept type, an overly complicated marker may not be for you.

Time to put the cash on the barrel head

Okay, now you have a number of markers chosen and have a good idea of what kind of place you want to buy it from.  Hopefully you will only have a couple markers to choose from by this point (or, better yet, just one).  Now how do you decide.  Well, that's actually more up to you than anyone else. Maybe you can find one a little cheaper than the other, perhaps one is a color you like better or maybe your friend had one like this one so you want to get one like his...or one that isn't like his.  This is the point in the process that you will decide which marker to make YOURS and yours alone. 

Maybe you have a very tough decision and can't decide.  Perhaps you'll want to post on the forum and ask them what they think you should get.  Believe it or not, this is a BAD idea. It is actually just going to make matters worse.  The best thing you can do in this situation is to go out and SEARCH for comparisons between these two markers and read what is already there.  Also, pbreview is a decent source for this kind of information too where you can read reviews by people who actually own the product.  Again though, remember to make up your own mind AFTER you read EVERYTHING you can find. 

Conclusion

Buying your first marker is a big step.  Buying your next marker doesn't get any easier.  I hope this guide at least gives you some tools so that you make a well informed purchase and that whatever you get is exactly what you wanted. 

Good luck, and remember, it is all about having fun!