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customowner15 View Drop Down
Forum Motivator

Joined: 23 December 2003
Location: Guadeloupe
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Points: 879
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2004 at 7:03pm

Customowner's Revised Forum Dictionary


ASA- short for air source adapter

Avatar- the picture under your name, a animated or still picture used to bring attention to yourself

BEagle- Short term for the Brass Eagle Paintball Company

bump- When you want to send a post back to the top of the page(like if it's a good post but no one viewed it or if it was a question that was never answered), and you don't have anything worthwhile to say but you want to let people know you aren't spamming

 Cocker-short for he Autococker marker

Flame- an insulting post used as a noun “That was a got flame” or a verb “I’m going to get Flamed

Guested- had their account taken away, they cannot post using it.

IP ban- their IP address has been banned from the tippmann website, they cannot post on the forum with any name, unless they buy a different IP from their service provider

<KRL>- the name of a mod(see below) who made his name by cracking down on swearing, this symbol/word is often used instead of a curse word

1337- leet, derived from elite, used as a verb mostly “Tat gun is 1337” spelled in "1337 text" an Internet created artificial language

LP-short term for Low Pressure kit

Paintball gun-common for Paintball Marker since gun is used more in the real world

Mod- someone in the Moderator Group ( 4 stars)

Mother- nickname for the tippmann forums

Newbie - also  newb n00b newbzorz ,One that is new to something. For the forum it is most likely a new, un-informed paintballer.

Old Blue- the forum two versions ago. It's where a lot of the "regulars" first saw posting action

Old Men and Heavy Weights (OMHW) - It's the unofficial Tippmann scenario team that some of the moderators and a few of the plats are members of.

Owned-when a great insult or victory has taken place, verb “you got owned” or Exclamation “owned"

PB-short term for pshyco ballistics product

PM- Private Message, a private post to another member can be found in inbox

pwned- used as a spin-off of owned, used when someone has been reprimanded and/or insulted.

Reg-Short for  Regulator paintball prt

Revy- short for a electronic hopper using 12 voltage batteries

Rico- Short for the Ricochet Paintball product or company

Roxorz (also roxors and Roxcorsz)- good, cool, "thats the roxorz!)

R/T- short term for Response Trigger product

sig - a forumers signature used like an avatar to get attention

Sniper- a pseudo curse word around here, don’t say it, it may result in flaming or insulting

Speedball-also Speed, Paintball played in a private field with bunkers, Teams start at different ends. Usually “Capture the flag”

stab- Short term for the palmer stabilizer product

sticky- a thread (see below) which has been made so that it stays at the top of a page

teh-"the" it is a mistake that became normal because some fourmers type that way.

Thread- 1.either the end of a barrel where it screws into the marker

2.a topic of discussion on this, or other, forums

Tippy-Short term for Tippmann product

tool- a not nice thing, an annoying person, or a suck-up, generally an insult noun “Dude, you’re a tool”

tricked out - an upgraded paintball marker

Uber- good, great, cool, as in "that’s the uber (barrel, gun, etc.)"

Woodsball-also woodzball or just woodz, Paintball played in the woodz and natural surroundings

x-chamber- short for the expansion chamber product, expansion chamber allows the airsource to turn the liquid to gas 

Edited by customowner15
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Rhino39 View Drop Down
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CAN give it; CAN’T take it

Joined: 24 November 2003
Location: United States
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Points: 3533
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2004 at 11:30pm
How to get gold

I just got a PM from someone asking for a reccommendation for gold. It was a bold attempt, and I've got to admire the kid's guts.

But it got me thinking- I know there's a lot of new forumers out there that want that treasured second star. Out of those people, I'd dare to say 65% of them either know their stuff about paintball, or are willing to put forth the effort to get gold. Be honest, everyone wants gold. It's undenyable. I feel it's time for someone to help fulfill that want.

I'm sure some people are shaking their heads right now thinking I'm gonna say the browner your nose, the better off you are. But I'm going to take the time out to actually explain a fool-proof method of getting that second star. The way I look at it, if everyone follows the "Gold star plan," this forum will be a lot smarter and a better place to hang out.

Let me start off with a quick insight as to where I'm comming from (for those of you that don't know). I used to be known as "Fatsplat99." I've been on both sides of the fence. As Fatsplat, I worked my way up to platinum, but I've been everywhere inbetween. I've been demoted somewhere around 9 times, and promoted as many, if not more times. Fatsplat99 was eventually guested, and I started this name and got gold in around 3 weeks. I've seen and done it all. I've flamed, I've helped people, I've done things I regret and I've seen what happens when you do. I'm a product of the system. I know how it works, and what it takes. This post isn't just by some gold member, it's by a guy that's had experience with this subject. Trust me, I know what I'm talking about.

The Gold Star Plan

What does it mean to get gold?- The mods don't just hand out a second star because you have a lot of posts or ask real nicely. You have to know your stuff. You can PM any one of the gold or platinum members and ask them a question. They'll give you more information than you know what to do with on that subject, and if they don't know about it, they'll give you the name of someone that does. A gold star is a sign of respect from the mods as much as it is from other people. It means you know your material, and are a good source of information for new players.

Show you know- What interests you? What part of paintball makes your mind curious? Is it the history of it? Is it how or why things work? Is it giving reviews on a subject? Are you interested in tactics? Is there one marker that you particularly enjoy (and it doesn't have to be a tippmann)? Chances are, someone else does too. Once you've picked a subject, research it. Spend around 30-45 minutes online each night for a week reading about it. Now take all your information, and post it. Allow everyone else to read what you know. Show you know what you're talking about (and do it in the correct forum, please). Feel confident that you can field any question on the subject and answer it in a mature, and above all correct, maner. It won't go un noticed, trust me.

Flames are for candles- I know, it's hard. You see something stupid, and the immediate reaction is to let that person know exactly how you feel. Don't. Remember that there is a person behind that name. When you are flaming "p8ntsnyper08" (just made up a name there), you are also flaming Joe Smith. You are flaming Joe Smith that is on here by choice, that has a life and a family. I often see someone who just joined, has little to no posts, and just asked "Which barrel is best" get blown out of the water. Be patient, everyone is allowed to make mistakes. There are exceptions to the rule, like if they don't take constructive criticism well, but in general be nice. Treat them like you want to be treaded, and, as KRL has in his sig, "Act like MY MOTHER is reading your post."

R.E.S.P.E.C.T- Show it. Show it to the mods, show it to the platinums, to the gold, to the standards, to the people who just joined. Respect is a mutual thing. If you don't show it, you won't get it. If you want that second star, prove you deserve it. Prove you are worthy of that extra respect by first showing it. Realize that the mods are not getting paid to do their job, and that this forum is free. You don't have to be here.

This forum is like a big paintball encyclopedia. No one will read it if it's full of trash.

Ladies and gentlemen, I give you the "Gold Star Plan." It's what I've used in the past, it's a fool-proof plan. It involves no brown nosing and/or "cheap" tactics. Most of it's common sense. So if you want that precious second star, try it. It'll not only get you another star, but it'll make this forum just that much better.

Edited by Rhino39
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tgaffner View Drop Down
youm0nt Lite ... and low carbs, too!!

Joined: 30 September 2002
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2004 at 5:00pm

All about the R/T

The Response Trigger System is a Drop-In Kit that Tippmann Pneumatics sells for both the 98 (Custom or Model) and the A-5. It is a Drop-In Kit for the A-5 and 98 Custom. But, the Model 98 needs to be milled for it to fit in right. Tippmann will take your Model 98, give you 98 Custom Receiver Halves, Along with the other parts needed, and will give you an R/T for $120.

How it works:

When the 98 or A-5 fires, there is excess Gas/ Air thatr is not used to propel the Paintball. Usually, that is just extra Gas/Air and is vented away. But with the R/T, it uses that excess Gas/ Air to power a little Piston that is located behind the Trigger. So, after everytime you shoot/fire the Paintball Marker, the R/T will take that excess Gas/Air and it will send the Gas/Air to the R/T's Piston. When that happens, the Piston will fill up with Air and it will push forward a little pin which will re-set the Trigger. It will do it fast enough so you will still end up having force on the Trigger. So, you will pull it again. That is called "Trigger Bounce".

What is all included:

98: The Response Trigger for the 98 will come with a new R/T Power Tube, R/T Hose (Cocker 3-Way), Banjo Fitting, Knurled Adjuster, and R/T Piston.

A-5: The Response Trigger for the A-5 will come with a new 3-Way Banjo Fitting for both the Cyclone and R/T, Knurled Adjuster, Knurled Adjuster Fittings, and R/T Piston.


1. Does the R/T use more Air?
No it does not! The R/T uses EXCESS Air to power itself.

2. How many BPS can it shoot?
Most R/T's will shoot around 14-15 BPS. But, some well tuned R/T's will fire at 16-17 BPS.

3. Is it Full Auto?
Not really. It just "Bounces" the Trigger. It is still 1 shot for each Trigger Pull.

4. Is it Tourny Legal?
It all depends. Some Feilds allow it, some dont. Go and ask them.

5. My R/T is not working. Whats wrong?
It could be a few problems.

 1. You are putting too muich force on the Trigger. Therefore, the Piston cant Re-Set the Trigger.
 2. There is something blocking the R/T's Air Hose.
 3. The R/T is not adjusted properly.

6. My R/T is open on the end!!
The new R/T's have an Open "Face" on them.

How to install the Response Trigger:

1. Dissassemble your Marker.
2. Remove the Valve Bolts and Re-Move the Power Tube.
3. Remove the Air hose or Verticle Adapter from the Valve/ Power Tube.
4. Get the Valve out of the Power Tube. You can lightly tap the Power Tube on a towle untill the Valve slides out.
5. Insert the Valve into the NEW Power Tube.
6. Take the right Receiver Half and a Nail-Set or Hole Punch. There is a little Groove/Slot about the Grips. Knock out that little "Plug"
7. Install the R/T Piston.
8. Put in all the Internals including the Power Tube. Dont forget the Valve Bolts!
9. Screw on the Banjo Fitting and Knurled Adjuster. Connect the Air Hose.
10. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

1. Dissassemble the Marker. Take off the Grip Frame.
2. On the Right side of the Grip Frame, there is a small "Notch". Break that little peice out. You can use your fingers.
3. Take apart the Grip Frame and put in the R/T Piston.
4. Put in the new Trigger Plates. (If included) Some have them, some dont....
5. Take apart the Marker. Install the Knurled Adjuster and Fittinginto the bottom right hand corner of the Marker.
6. Put the Marker back together.
7. Take off the old Banjo Fitting (Connected to the Cyclone) and put on the new one.
8. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

For more info, check out the Tippmann Systems Page on www.tippmann.com


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tippmann_kid View Drop Down
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Addicted to X-Ball

Joined: 17 June 2003
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 February 2004 at 9:44pm
Questions Asked Over and Over:
Which gun should i get?
what barrel should i get?
Does it hurt to use that button on the top right corner of your screen? called the SEARCH BUTTON
look at others post b/c most likely someone else has beat you to it and asked the question you were about to.
look at theirs to see if it answers your own question.
if not make a post that answers your questions.
what is it called?
it is SPAM when you make posts that have been posted over and over again
I just had to get that out of my system
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ClemsonSniper View Drop Down
Communications Breakdown

Joined: 11 December 2003
Location: United States
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 March 2004 at 9:13pm
how to get the right size paintballs for your barrel....

ok people this is how it works.what you do is you put a ball in the barrel(while it is off, and the grooved side)and blow into the grooved end.if it comes through well try it again and again at different angles(paintballs are never really round)if it still works well it is most likely the paint for your barrel.also do this with many variaties of paint.one more thing, when the ball is in the barrel turn the barrel to the other side and turn it up to the light, and see if there is some space between the sides of the barrel and paintball.when blowing into the grooved side blow into it hard with puffed cheeks and such ok?ok

how to properly oil your gun...

what u do is take 1 drop of oil and drop it on the o-ring.then one on the groove(this is on the co2 tank)rub the oil around then dry ur hands.then apply one or 2 drops of oil in the small hole where the co2 enters the gun.put the tank on and dry fire about 15-20 times.you will now have finished oiling your gun and will keep it in much better condition(the co2 tank and asa )and will allow you to use it longer.

Edited by ClemsonSniper
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speedballer1313 View Drop Down
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Joined: 05 July 2003
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2004 at 12:42pm
I have seen many questions about this.
Here we go!

Many people say technical things, but this is a simple, easy to remember way to oil.

First, you must have oil. I use Gold cup oil from www.paintballwizard.com

Then remove your tank, barrel, loader and check the breech to make sure no paintballs are in it.

Then, drop 5-7 drops of oil in the ASA (air source adapter)

Screw in tank.

Then, Fire your marker about 30 times to throughly oil your marker.

Once you have done this, replace barrel and loader and now you are ready to play.

I oil my marker twice every month, and i play about about 3-5 days in every month.

Oiling your Marker once a month should keep your marker well oiled.
Hope this helps,

Edited by speedballer1313
Retired from paintball. No cash, No time, And a girfriend.
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Psycho5785 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2004 at 9:48pm

At the request of my fellow forumers, here you go. If I missed something, PM me and I'll add it, but I think I got most of it.

I have seen a recent increase in people asking "What upgrade should I get for my marker?" Well, ultimately, the choice is yours. You should put on your marker what you want on your marker. However, I have compiled a list of all the various upgrades that you could get for your marker. A-5 upgrades are listed first, followed by 98 Custom upgrades. And some of you will say this should be in Upgrades and Customizing, but I wanted all the new players to see it.

-New Barrel- Adds accuracy and air efficiency
-Flatline Barrel (If you like)- Adds 100+ feet to the distance of your shot.
-E-Grip- Firepower upgrade. Allows semi-auto, auto responce, turbo, three round burst, and full auto
-Response Trigger (R/T)- Another firepower upgrade. Allows very fast shooting by a piston firing the trigger forward as user squeezes
-Double Trigger- Allows use of two fingers, allowing for faster trigger pulls.
-Drop Forward- Brings weight of your air source down and forward, centering weight of marker.
-Rear Velocity Adjuster (RVA)- Allows easy control of velocity via a -dial in the back.
-Low Pressure Kit- Allows operation at a lower pressure, greatly increasing efficiency.
-New Front Grip- Improves grip, mostly for looks.
-Expansion Chamber- Gives C02 more room to expand from liquid into gas form, increasing efficiency and reducing risk of liquid C02 getting into marker.
-Shoulder Stock (Solid, Collapsable, Folding)- Allows bracing of the marker against shoulder, stabilizing shot.
-Raised Sight Rail- Brings sights up higher, allowing for easier aiming, and also easier installation of dot sights, scopes, etc.
-High Capacity Hopper- Holds 220 rounds instead of the standard 150 rounds.
-Military Simulation Upgrades (Too many to list)- When taken to the extreme, will make your paintball marker look so much like a real gun that you will have to look closely to be able to tell.
-Fake Supressor- Looks only. And muffling or deadening of sound is strictly coincidental.
-Combat Sling- Allows for easier carrying of marker on long hauls.
-Universal Mount- Allows the mounting of any ASA adapter onto A-5.
98 Custom
-New Barrel- See above
-Flatline Barrel (If you like)- See above
-Electric Hopper- Agitates balls in hopper, allowing for faster feeding at high rates of fire.     
-E-Bolt- 98 Custom equivalent to the E-Grip.
-R/T- See above
-Double Trigger- See above
-Drop Forward- See above
-RVA- See above
-Low Pressure Kit- See above
-Gas-Thru Foregrip- Brings bottomline through the foregrip of the marker, which is turned into an expansion chamber.
-Powerfeed- Allows for faster feeding.
-Rocket Cock- Covers open slot where cocking knob is, protecting internal components.
-Grips (Sticky Grips, etc.)- Allows better gripping of handle.
-Expansion Chamber- See above
-Direct Feed- Allows for faster feeding,
-Military Simulations (Again, too many to list)- See Above
-Raised Sight Rail- See above
-Shoulder Stock- See above

This list is small, because Pro/Carbine upgrades can be relatively hard to find.
-New Barrel- See above
-Electric Hopper- See above
-Double Trigger- See above (Only problem, the only one I have seen has no trigger guard)
-D-Feed System- Allows for faster feeding
-Expansion Chamber Kit- See above
-Vertical Adapter Kit- Brings air source directly into bottom of marker, with no bottomline.
-New Cocking Knob- Strictly for looks
-Shoulder Stock (With RVA option)- See above
-RVA- See above
-R/T- See sbove (I believe it takes custom work, but it is a sight to be seen)


-HPA- High Pressure Air, or Nitro. Greater number of shots, better consistency.

-Regulators- Regulates gas flow into marker

-Remote Lines- Brings weight of tank off marker and onto your back, or wherever you want to keep your tank. Also acts as an expansion chamber.

War Machine Paintball

Standing up for newbies everywhere! We were all newbies once.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 April 2004 at 10:44pm

er, this will be sticky'ed for awhile, then added to the Uber-FAQ, so read it here while you can! (this was originally going to APG, so read it for free monkeys!)

 So, you wanna play paintball but dont have the money for all the flashy gear, I've been there, most players have.
And let me tell you It killed me, watching the players with the bling-bling markers, and the coolest tourney gear. The
players tossing ungodly amounts of paint every game.

But you don't need any of that. You don't need the latest electo marker, or a 5+4 pod pack with half a case on your back.
So I'm going to tell you how to do this without the stigma of being the newb.
 You're first and most important piece of equipment is? the marker? no. The tank? no, Its the mask,
You will want to spend the most money, comparatively, on your mask. After all, this is your ugly mug we're talking
about protecting, isnt it? You will need a goggle system specifically designed for paintball. You will want a thermal lens
to keep from having your vision impaired mid-game, by fog. A great mask for working on a budget is the V-force sheild, Which
 rovides A lot of protection for a very low price, You can find versions of the Shield for as low a $20. Another great mask
is the game Face (Draxxus) Skul mask, Or one of the many great JT masks. If you are willing to spend a bit more on your mask
(reccomended) I would say that the JT Flex-7, V-force morph, Or JT Proteus.

 Your second Piece of equipment is also an integral part of the game, without it, you'll be throwing paint at the
other team! The marker is one of the most personal, selective pieces of kit you will ever buy. No two people like theirs
exactly the same. Go to the feild, or pro-shop, and pick up, and if you can, fire as many as you can. My personal
Reccomendations are; The Tippmann model 98 custom (usually around $125), a solid performer which won't go down in the middle
of a game, these things are tougher to break than that plastic stuff on CD's! Another Great entry level marker is just about
any marker on the Kingman (Spyder) lineup, a spyder will run from $50 to about $300 depending on the model. But as I said, try
As many as you can, and go for the one that feels right in your hands.

 Food for your gun. The Marker won't be much use if there isn't any gas powering it. The two types of gases used in
Paintball are Co2 (carbon Dioxide), and HPA (High Pressure Air). technically there are three, but Nitrogen, or "Nitro,"
for our purposes are exactly the same. Some Places do not offer HPA fills, but most offer Co2. HPA tanks can be quite
Expensive, ranging from $75 all the way to $500, these Air systems are used by nearly 100% of professional players. but
on most low priced guns, you do not need to use HPA (although most high end electro's do require HPA). I reccomend getting
a Co2 tank, these are $14 to $25, some people will tell you that Co2 is either not good for your gun, or will be inconsitant.
This is only half true, Co2 does not ruin most low cost guns, such as the 98 custom, or the Spyder Line of markers. The tales
Of inconsistancy are partly true though, Co2 is in a liquid state when stored in a tank, but is rapidly transformed into
a gas when shot. this can Lead to liquid co2 getting into the gun during rapid fire, but it shouldn't be much of a problem
on most of the afore mentioned markers. A quick partial solution to the Consistancy concerns is to get an "anti-siphon tube"
installed on your co2 tank, only let a qualified airsmith do this. Co2 is measured in Oz, the most common sizes are, 9 Oz
12 Oz, 16 Oz, and 20 Oz. Depending on your gun you will get on average of 50 shots per ounce. a good size tank for
all around play is 16 Oz.

 A traditional gravity feed hopper should be fine, but should you feel the need to get a motorized loader, a good
Choice on a low budget is the Ricochet Rhino, or the Viewloader Quantum, both around $30.

 Clothing, that stuff that protects your Oh-so-fair skin from harm, Is still a requirement while playing. For obvious
Reasons. Some players choose to wear Jerseys in Speedball, or Camoflauge in the woods. these are not a requirment.
The Best all around clothes I can think of are a pair of jeans, two long sleeve shirts, and a soft soccer
style cup (if you are a guy). For the Women in the sport, several companies make chest protectors.A hat, or beanie is also
 a good idea, so you dont get lumps on your sacred dome. A neck Protector, and gloves are also a good idea.

The extra's, Pod Packs and squeegies. Pod packs can be found cheap, but as someone on a budget you won't want to be shooting
a large amount of paint, so these are completely optional. A good squeegie can be made with a chop stick, and some Kleenex,
Or just bought for about $4.00. A barrel Bag, or condom is also a neccesity.


 When playing, you never want to waste paint just shooting at the ground, or trying to long-ball across the entire
field, nearly 70% of all long balls won't even break, much less hit. never "spray-and-pray" this is a tactic which is looked
upon with disgust and is pretty expensive.... If you don't feel you can hit someone, get closer. Do anything you can, short
of stealing paint, to keep paint/Air costs low.

 Field fees can be a killer, see if your local field has a night or day where entry is discounted.

Hopefully during the summer you can do odd jobs, or get part-time work to pay for an upgrade or more play, just keep at it!

"may you receive many a bounce"



From NotDaveEllis –

Also buying gear used from places like PBN or PBR or AO is great, I've saved a ton of money doing deals there.  (remember to check feedback and maybe go through a 3d party service such as www.moodypaintball.com or www.palmers-pursuit.com


From Centaur –


Excellent post!

One small suggestion: in the second paragraph, you weren't clear up front as to what the the "second Piece of equipment" really is. Although all of us smart folks know you mean the gun (and you mention it later), remember who your audience is!

My suggestion: revise the 1st sentence of 2nd paragraph to read: "Your second most important piece of equipment is, of course, the marker. The marker is an integral part of the game; without it, you'll be throwing paint at the other team!"

Also, something else to consider: expand on the paint issue. By far, this is the most expensive cost. Not just because you pay $65 a case, but because you pay $65 a case each and every time you play. All the equipment are one time costs/investments, but paint (and air) will keep taking bites of your wallet.

I suggest the following to cut back on costs:

1) shoot less: Like you mentioned already, shooting less (no spray and pray) will save on paint. Seems obvious, but a point not easily taken by many players. May I suggest you write more on it to make your arguments more persuasive?

2) buy less paint: If shooting less paint seems hard to do, perhaps forcing yourself to have less to shoot with will help. If a player knows he/she only has 1000 rounds to use all day, that player will keep a closer eye on how much he/she shoots.

3) buy cheaper paint: A lot of people think that you MUST buy what the pros buy. This is not true. If you are just playing recreationally, you can always settle for "field paint" or "practice paint". Afterall, for most players, they are NOT playing in the world cup! And the paintball companies don't like to say this, but most paint shoot just as well as others for most guns. Sure there are some guns that can take only certain kinds of paint and some paint have noitceable benefits over others, but by far, they are the exception and not the rule.

For example, I used to buy JT Marbs and Slams for $65+ a case. In order to cut costs, I started buying Zap Tork (on sale for $30 a case). That's a 50% reduction in paintballs costs! If I played 6 times a year, that means a savings of $180! (And the Zap Tork shot just as well as the JT Marbs!)

A few other ways to save $$$:

1) check the fields to see if they have "frequent player" pass cards. One field I went to has one for up to 15 visits. Sure, the card cost $20, but it cut admissions fees in half (from $20 to $10 a visit) so it made itself up in just 2 visits!

2) bag your lunch: On many occasions, I have seen players buy their food at the field or nearby McDonalds and pay outrageous prices. ($2 for a small hotdog?!) But if your bring your food with you from home, you will save a few bucks, perhaps enough to cover that second co2 refill! Besides, for most players, you do not need to pig out at lunch. Just eat enough to get those needed claroies for the afternoon day of play. Just get some GENERIC power drink at Costco, a Powerbar, maybe a simple ham sandwich, and you are set! Don't overload on food at lunch, otherwise, you will just barf on the field!

I hope this helps.


From Paintball46 –

nice tips but i would add that to cut down on costs dont be afraid to buy cheep paint. If your starting out you probably dont have to many firng upgrades so you rate of fire will be so low you wont break many balls. I was always into spyder guns because I liked them for woodball and thats all i played but I just recently got a custom 98 I only buy the cheep bulk zap paintballs for it and very little of them have broken yet.


Good luck and search-it-first!

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Reb Cpl View Drop Down
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Joined: 10 June 2002
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2004 at 6:21am

This is important:

Originally posted by Layman Layman wrote:

If you read this, bump/up it to keep it high up, it might actually save a life...

Remember these things can kill you, or someone else

On a safety note: Don't put anti-siphon tubes into your own tanks. There have been two deaths recently due to tanks flying off the valve. One of them is a confirmed home done anti-siphon tube. Glenn Palmer of Palmer's Pursuit Shop had this to say:
   "The only thing that I saw wrong with any of the hardware was: There were no signs that the valve had been tightened sufficiently into the tank and there was no sign of chemical bonding materials having been used at the last installation of the valve. However, the Safety vent hole in valve neck was plugged with an unknown substance.
Another contributing factor was that the anti-siphon tube was installed in such a way as to require that the tank/valve be tightened fully into the ASA to put the tube in the appropriate position.
IMHO, the hardware itself is not the issue but the handling of it is.
Apparently, the complete rig was bought off of the internet. As is.
Sherriff's dept. investigation not yet complete and there has bee no word about who may have done the anti-siphon modifcation."
    Then his follow-up, "...it appears that the young fellow that owned the equipment had in fact been doing some modifications on his own (including the anti-siphon) and not bought the equipment 'as-is' over the internet, as he had originally claimed."


Tom Kaye, inventor of the AutoMag's and owner of Air Gun Designs wrote, "Lock tight IS NOT suposed to be used on tank threads, they are suposed to be TORQUED on with a special strap wrench."

Hydro Testing

So what is a "hydro"? Hydro refers to "Hydrostatic Testing", or more commonly hydro testing. Well, what is it? In layman's terms (sorry) it means they take a bottle, put it under water and inflate it to a predetermined pressure. Depending on how much water it displaces, it will pass or fail. For a much more indepth answer click here.

OK, so everyone keeps talking about the hydro date on your tank... but where is it???

On a High Pressure Air tank (HPA) it's pretty easy to see.

See the "11-97"? This is the date of manufacture. The date this Air America fiber wrapped tank was made was November 1997. According to the DOT this tank must be hydro-ed by November 2000, again in November of 2003, and so on until the tank is fifteen years old. After the fifteen year, at this point in time, fiber wrapped tanks are to be trashed. The steel tanks are able to be used until they no longer pass hydro. Wrapped tanks must be hydro-ed every three years, unless they are on a five year hydro like the DOT#10915. If you have a tank with that DOT number on it made before May 2002, your first hydro is on the third year, then you go to five. This exeption will expire on April 30th 2004, so unless they renew it will be back to the three year tests.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2)
On a CO2 tank there is also a hydro date. Many CO2 tanks have it stamped into the bottle, although some companies have started printing them on the sticker label with a clear retest date. Different manufacturers put them in different places. You can find them near the bottoms like this one:

Some manufacturers put them on the bottoms like this one did:

Or, more commonly you'll find the dates stamped into the top of the bottle near the neck like these guys did:

The tanks above are the CO2 tanks more commonly found amoungst players. These tanks require a hydro test every five years. It is more cost effective with a CO2 tank to replace it, than to hydro it. There are also fiber wrapped CO2 tanks that have the same label as a HPA tank. On these you read them and test them the same as you would with HPA tanks.

Here is a direct cut and paste of Picasso's post on the dates subject, "...." denotes a removed piece within the body:
"Steel or Aluminum Tanks:
-Under 2 inch diameter, no hydro required.
-5 year hydro testing for any that are greater than 2inhces diameter.
-No lifetime, as long as they pass hydro. There are scuba tanks out there from the 1970's still in use, legally, due to current hydro testing and inspections.
Carbon Fiber wrapped tanks (HPA):
-15 year lifespan from First Hydro/Manuf Date.
After 15 years, they get a hole drilled in them. Gone.
-All Carbon Fiber was 3 year Hydro.
However, now, the DOT has allowed some to be 5 year hydro. You have to look at the DOT number (such as DOT 10915) to see if it qualifies.
Some tanks produced after a certain Date, that meet DOT, are now 5 year hydro, if they are before that date, they still get a 3 year Hydro, the first time.
So, with HPA tanks, its a little confusing, check with the manufacturer.
Using one of my tanks as an Example:
It is a Luxfer Tank (brand).
It is "DOT 10915" which has been granted a 5 year Hydro exemption. BUT, this exemption has a Beginning DATE requirement. My tank was manufactured/first hydroed MAY 2001. This means it is too OLD to qualify for the 5 year Hydro, it must be tested Next month (May 2004). Once it is tested, then it falls into the 5 year testing requirement sey forth by the DOT exemption..................A lot of 20 oz. Co2 tanks hit the market about 5 years ago, when they became popular, now they are hitting their first hydro requirement date. I suspct that Feilds and Shops are going to be checking dates and condition of tanks a lot closer.
   To find the date on your Co2 tank, it is near the Neck, and is stamped into the tank. You'll see 1800 which means max working psi rating (Your burst disc will be an 1800 psi disc so that the tank never exceeds that rating).
   You will also see a set of numbers like 08 02. This means the tank was manufacture/hydroed in August (08) of 2002 (02).
It will be up for a hydro test in 08 07, which is 5 years, because it is steel or aluminum"

Originally posted by feaksoftware feaksoftware wrote:

Good info, but where do you get it hydro'd? That's the only thing left to

You can get any tanks hydro tested through any local "dive shops". Ask your local fields and pro-shops where to get it done. Check your local yellow pages under Welding Supplies too.

Originally posted by firefighter3431 firefighter3431 wrote:

hears a little info for the people that aren't near a paintball shop or a welding supply shop.....    if you want you bottles hydroed check with your local fire dept.   the air bottles we use have to also be hydroed ... they would probalby give you the company name and a phone number to see if they would hydro your bottles...

Hopefully this will answer any and all possible questions about hydro dates.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2004 at 6:24am

This too is a valuable little piece from Greg Smith:

Originally posted by Greg Smith Greg Smith wrote:

The one question we have all asked is how to improve accuracy. It might be a question about which barrel to get or paint to buy or a particular HPA tank. So let me help by laying some important things out for you.

Paint to barrel match is secondary at best. The most important factor determining accuracy is the quality of the paint. If the paint is misshaped, dimpled, swollen, old or anything of that matter, nothing, and I do mean nothing, will make it very accurate.

OMHW played a game at Hogback Mountain in VA late 2002. The paint was crappy seconds. The paintballs were dimpled and misshaped. Even Picasso with his Autococker and Freak Barrel (with matching insert) had accuracy issues all day.

The next most important factor is consistency. I'm not going to provide a specific example because we all know that the closer each ball is in velocity the closer each ball will come to falling in the same spot. Consistency can be improved by switching to compressed air, adding a regulator or an expansion chamber, and most importantly taking good care of your gun. That means keeping it clean and performing the proper maintenance.

The third most important factor is the quality of the barrel. Now any good quality barrel will do. As long as the paint is not too big for the barrel you will be fine.

Take a look at the December 2002 issue of APG Magazine. There is an article about the 8" Lapco Bigshot and its bench test against the stock Tippmann barrel. Now the bores of each of these barrels were within .001 (.689-.690) of each other so for all intensive purposes they were the same bore size. They used 3 different quality brands of paint (they all fit) and bench tested an A-5. In each of the 3 tests the Lapco out performed the stock barrel, even though the paint to barrel ratio was the same. So matching is not as important as paint and barrel quality.

Now as for paint to barrel match, yes it will help a little if you match the paint to the barrel. However don't bother to do so if the factors above are not met. Instead of buying that $200 Freak or $110 Boomstick, try a $50 Lapco, $49 CP Classic, or $45 J&J Ceramic with an expansion chamber and a bag of good quality RPS or Diablo/Draxxus paint. I assure you your accuracy will vastly improve.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2004 at 7:17am

The Flatline Barrel System

Ok, so lets get this straight.  The Flatline barrel is one of the most controversial barrels that Tippmann owners have the opportunity to get.  On the forum, people are asking left and right which barrel should I get?  The Flatline or something else?  Also, questions like "What kind of paint works good in the Flatline?"  Look to have all those questions answered here.  So, lets start it off.

What Exactly is the Flatline?

Ok, so here we go.  First and foremost, we must realize that the flatline barrel is the only barrel guarenteed to give you more distance then any other barrel.  Hands down, the Flatline really sends those paintballs flying.  But why?  Its simple.  The Flatline barrel is actually curved, so that when the paintball is shot, the barrel creates backspin on the paintball, allowing the ball to kind of hover through the air in a straight line, hence the name "Flatline".  If it wasn't for the curved barrel, the Flatline would just be another $100+ hunk of junk. 

Assembly of the Flatline

This is a major difference point between the Flatline for the 98, and the Flatline for the A-5.  Since the A-5 is so much easier to take apart and put back together, the Flatline can be installed on the A-5 in under 2 minutes, going at a nice and slow pace.  However,  since the 98 makes the owners pull out the toolbox to field strip, the flatline can take a bit of time to install.  For the 98, you will need to remove a reciever half and take off the old rear sight.  Put the reciever half back on, and leave the 3 front bolts off.  (NOTE!!! Please make sure that the orange ball latch stays in place during this process...Nothing is worse then finishing the installation to find out that your marker is useless because the ball latch isn't there.)   With these bolts out of the way, you can screw in a adapter for the barrel, and then finally put on your shroud.  After that, insert the barrel, Tap it in with a rubber mallet, and finish by tightening all the bolts back up.   Whew....The A-5 gets the easier job

So...What Kind of paint should I use?

Paint is just as much trouble as you make it.  Once you have this barrel, you will more then likely have to change paint, because the Flatline only shoots good with small or medium bore paint.  Usually on the box it will say what size the bore is, but if it dosn't, there is a chart on the forum that will let you know.  Please use the search icon and look it up, its very useful.  A few brands that I have personally used are Draxxus Blaze, Midnites, Marbalizers, PMI Premiums, RPS All-Stars, and Zap.  These tended to work very well in the Flatline, as long as the ball quality was good, and none of the balls were offshapen or cracked.

Other brands that work well are:  Evils, Big Balls, and Hellfires.

What should I get, the flatline or a Bigshot/J&J/A-A?

Before you ask again, these questions are all preference.  They are usually asked because the person is not informed about the barrels themselves, or they are looking for the most widely used barrel.  This post is only to inform the readers about the Flatline Barrel, however, I can give some Ideas on when its better off not the get the Flatline.

If you are a woodsball player, the Flatline is calling you.  The Flatline just works great in the woods because it keeps you from shooting up in the trees, and can take away many tree bunkerings from opponents.  Compared to other barrels, the flatline sweeps the field in the woods.

If you play speedball, chances are that you might not want the flatline.  I play speedball with my flatline, but im not happy with it.  Sure, it shoots across the whole field, but now since the field is smaller, so do all of the other players markers.  Taking away this advantage, and only being able to rely on the Flatlines Accuracy, you no better off then the other players.  The flatline gets in the way when your trying to get in a bunker, it takes longer to get the gun around a corner to reture fire, and pretty much it just plain gets in the way.  Most people say that the flatline isn't good for speedball because you can't lob balls over bunkers.  This is true, but however, you can turn the marker sideways, and the ball will actually curve, allowing you to sometimes shoot people from around the bunker.  This neat feature however, dosn't save the flatline in speedball.


98 Flatline VS. A-5 Flatline

This has become the most frequently talked about thing at many fields, and here on the forum.  The answer, though it may worry some 98 owners, is that the A-5 Flatline is just a better performer.  The Accuracy variations arn't as noticible, its WAY easier to clean, MUCH easier to take apart/off, and its easier to install, since its just a one peice snap on/off, while the 98 has to get the barrel lined up correctly, and then get the shroud on. 

If you can, try shooting both barrels.  Even if you hate the A-5, you will notice that the A-5 flatline is just better, plain out.


Trouble-Shooting the Flatline

(June 4, 2004)  After reading over this topic again, I realized that I didn't cover some of the problems that most people have with the flatline.  So, since I have nothing better to do during 6th block, i'll list them here.

My Flatline Won't Fit...what do I do?
Ok, first things first.  Make sure that you are following the directions on the instruction manual, and made sure that you are doing everything correctly.  Look for small mistakes that you may have missed.  Many people miss the fact that the rear sight on the 98 has to be removed before the shroud will fit on top.  Just don't sweat it, relax, and FOLLOW THE MANUAL. 

Ok...My Flatline is installed...but what FPS is right for it?
This is one of the most critical aspects of the flatline besides what paint you're using.  If you have your fps too high, you risk breaking a ball (bad news) or having your paintball have more movement towards the end of flight.  Another thing that can happen with a high fps, is that your paint can actually be spinning so fast that it actually curves upwards, and goes up in the sky.  If you EVER see your paint curving upwards any, its time to lower your fps. 

If you keep your fps too low, you will start to affect the benefits that the Flatline gives you.  Too low will make the paintball's distance much shorter....thats pretty simple to understand...right? 

A good fps to keep it running is in the 260-280 range.  Please remember, that since the Flatline has this range to work with, ALONG with your choice of paint, its going to be extremely picky.  Velocity spikes are a nightmare for Flatline users, and you will want to get rid of that as fast as possible.  If your using any source of Compressed air/Nitrogen, with a good regulator, then you will get much more effeciency out of the Flatline.    Basically, Velocity jumps/spikes=

HELP!!! My paint is curving!
There can be multiple reasons why this is happening, I'll try to help with each one. 

  • Installation...You didn't tap the barrel in with a rubber mallet, or anything for that matter.  This may sound like a stupid and pointless thing to do, but trust me...its VERY importaint.
  • Installation (pt2)  The barrel could be crooked.  A-5 users can skip this one, as you don't have to worry about it.  Make sure that the porting at the end of the barrel is nice and even when you set it.
  • Paint...Your paint could be...well, not good.  Small to Medium bore paint works the best for the Flatline, as stated earlier.  Make sure you don't skimp on paint, as it could come back to haunt you later.
  • Velocity...Check your velocity.  You want it between 260-280, and make sure that your velocity isn't jumping/dropping horribly. 
  • Check Yourself...you actually may not be shooting straight.  Note that the barrel is curved.  Now note that when you turn the gun, the barrel does not adjust itself so that it will continue to shoot level.  The barrel will rotate with the gun, and if the gun is rotated, then your paint will spin and move in the direction that the laws of physics says it should.  Make sure to keep your gun as level as possible.  Please note that turning your gun sideways WILL let you curve balls around bunkers...not as useful as you would think though.



So, overall, the flatline barrel adds distance to your shot.  Note that it adds distance, W/O mentioning any added accuracy.  Its true that the Flatline does not give you the best accuracy.  However, I believe that the ablility to shoot much farther can in some cases outweigh that one flaw.  I hope that this post will help viewers that needed to know any information about the Flatline barrel.  If you do have any questions about it,  please, feel free to ask me.  I will try my best to answer it.

Edited by Tippmann_Werks
Unofficial Tippmann On-Field Spokesperson
-Bunkering Non-Tippmann users since 1999
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bravecoward View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 June 2004 at 6:12pm


  1. Use the search button located at the right hand corner of the page, you should alaways search before asking a question, chances are they have already been posted before!
  2. dont make threads about a topic you know people hate, like paintball sniping and paintball snipers
  3. if somebody flames you about your typing skills, edit your post.the edit button is located under every post you make.
  4. if somebody flames you ignore them, dont provoke (sp?) them.

feel free to add on or fixed anything in this post!


Edited by bravecoward
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Homer J View Drop Down

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2004 at 10:55pm
On AOL talk:
Please, people, the official forum language is ENGLISH. Please do not use AOL talk. It makes your posts harder to read, and you look less intelligent. People will not take your comments seriously.

AOL talk usually shortens words that are only two or three letters anyway, which is really sad, and shows how society is going downhill. Also, proper spelling, capitalization, punctuation, and grammar(notice there's no e in grammar) will make people take you seriously, and you'll be flamed less often.

The question:
dose ne1 no a gud barrel 2 by?
would be taken a lot less seriously than the question:
Does anyone know a good barrel to buy?

Take the few extra seconds to make your posts legible.

Refer to my sig:

Just say NO to AOL talk.

Edited by Homer J
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2004 at 7:51pm
I saw this on pbvids and it seemed very useful. So, I bring it here.

Credit to DeadStr8Paint of pbvids for this post.

Diablo Paintballs

Blaze - .689-.691
Inferno - .686-.688
Hellfire - .682-.685
Midnight - .689-.691
Crusifre - .689-.691
Formula 13 - .689-.691
Dark Legion Night - .687-.689
Heat - .689-.691
Dusk - .687-.691
RecSport - .687-.690
Nightmare - .687-.689


Arctic Inferno - .687-.690
Blaze - .687-.690
Blitz - .687-.690
Competitive Edge - .687-.690
Dusk - .687-.691
Hellfire - .687-.690
Inferno - .688-.689
Midnight - .687-.690
Sunflare - .687-.690


Marballizer - .687-.690
Premium - .689-.691
Premium Gold - .689-.691
All Star - .682-.685
Big Ball - .687-.691
Polar Ice - .689-.691
El Tigre .686-.689
Flash - .689-.691
SuperSwirls - .688-.690
BetterBall - .688-.690
Freedom Balls - .688-.689
Attitude - .689-.691
EuroFlite - .686-.689
Evil - .686-.689
Invader - .689-.691
Lightening - .686-.689
Slamball - .686-.689


Advantage - .688-.690
Black Maxx - .689-.691
Evil - .689-.691
Invader - .689-.691
Mercury - .6.688-.691
Premium - .689-.691

System X

Aftermath - .689-.690
Kryptonite - .689-.690
Legends - .689-.690
Pointblank - .689-.691
Steel - .689-.690

Worr Game Products

Competition - .687
Domination - .687
Perfection - .687

32 Degrees

Competition - .689-.691
Platinum - .689-.691
Team Colors - .689-.691
Team Colors Winter - .688-.690

Paintball Junkies

Ace - .692+
Joker - .692+
Morpheus - .690-.691
Mystic - .690-.691
Reaper - .692+


Carnivore - .689-.691
Elite - .689-.690
J-Balls - .689-.691
Maxim - .689-.691
Predator - .689-.691

Paintball Inc.

Proball - .686-.688
Lite - .687-.689
Devil - .686-.688
Platinum - .686-.688


Select - .689-.691
Classic - .689-.691
Advantage - .688-.690
ProSeries - .688-.690
ProSport - .689-.691
Performance Plus - .688-.690
X-Out - .689-.691
Amp - .689-.691
Chronic - .689-.691
Chronic Ultimate - .688-.690
Primer - .689-.691
Pro European - .689-.691
Rainbow - .688-.690
RecSeries - .688-.690
Seconds - .688-.690
Spank - .689-.691
Sport - .689-.691
Tork - .689-.691
Vapor - .689-.691
ZXS Performance - .688-.690
ZXS RecSeries - .688-.690
ZXS SportSeries - .688-.690


Action - .689-.691
Ice - .689-.691
Core Paintballs - .689-.691
Premium - .689-.691

Nitro Duck

First Choice Field - .688-.690
First Choice Slim Fill - .688-.690
First Choice Super Fill - .692+


Java Classic - .688-.690
Java Supreme - .689-.691

Brass Eagle/Viewloader

Old Style - .692+
Top Brass - .689-.691
Afterburner - .692+
Blue Streak - .688-.690
Viewloader I-Blaz - .689-.691

Smart Parts

Death Paint - .689-.691
Smart Paint - .689-.691


Affordaball - .687-.689
Challenger - .692+
Anarchy - .687-.689
HotSpot - .690-.691
Nel-Splat - .689-.691
Gold Medal - .692+


Competitor - .688-.690
Cyclone - .688-.690
Hurricane - .688-.690
Storm - .688-.690
Tempest - .688-.690


Premium - .688-.690
Visible Impact - .689-.691

Great American

Great American - .688-.690
Banana Balls - .688-.690
Sour Apple - .688-.690
I&I Sports House Premium - .688-.690


Paintball Mania First Choice - .692+
Powerball - .689-.691
Cobra Snake Eggs - .688-.691
Direct Hit - .656-.670
Kick'n Paintballs - .689-.691
Taso Powerball - .689-.691
TC Venom - .688-.691
Vortex Armageddon Series - .686-.687
WS Warped Blaze - .688-.691
DBX Practice Grade - .689-.691
Paintball Number 1 Premium Tourny - .688-.690
Pharmagel Tomahawk - .688-.690
Screamin' Banshee - .688-.690
Stinger Paintballs - .688-.690
Tippmann Werks - .689-.691
Game Face Scorch - .688-.689
Lazerball - .690-.691

Edited by Frozen Balls

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VTpaintballer View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 August 2004 at 7:36pm

Some one told me to put this here.... well i hope it helps:\

Ok this was wrote by Dr. David G. Berkebile from paintball x tremes magazine... hopefully I’m not doing any thing wrong here like plagiarizing if I am tell me... thanx

Foods that increase energy!

Playing paintball requires the right equipment. This equipment is needed to be competitive in the game and to help protect the outside of your body. But how do you improve your game from the inside? Equipment for your inside does not mean swallowing a pair of batteries or a few paintballs, that's for sure: it means getting the right kind of nutrients from certain foods! Taking care of the inside of your body is just as important as the right equipment is for the outside. Eating the right foods can help you become a better paintball player, and have a fuller and better life!

When it comes to choosing the right foods, most of us fall short. Eating the wrong foods can cause fatigue early during a game, the inability to think clearly and/ or shoot straight. In addition, choosing the wrong foods over time can cause us to gain weight making us sluggish and even depressed! With a majority of our society being overweight isn't surprising that eating wrong foods can cause us problems such as diabetes, heart disease, and high blood pressure. Most paintball players are young and haven't been affected yet, but for some of the veteran players the types of problems are showing up.

What do we need to eat daily?

Vitamin, Minerals, and Phytonutrients:

Fruits: raw 4-5 pieces a day and/or freshly squeezed fruit juice 3-4 glasses/day (12oz.).

Vegetables: 6-8 servings a day raw or lightly steamed. Vegetables and fruits are high in fiber**.

Protein: chicken and/or grilled/steamed fish, 2-4 servings per day. Fish is preferred over poultry due to the Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFA), which are essential Fatty Acids (EFA) that we need daily. PUFA consumption should not exceed more than 10 percent of total caloric intake.

Small portions of very red meat with no visible fat should be eaten. Red meat should be consumed only a few times per week or less. High red meat consumption (especially high in saturated fat) has been linked to causing high blood pressure, obesity, and coronary artery disease and colon cancer! Therefore, limiting your intake of red meat would be wise.

Complex Carbohydrates: Eating whole wheat breads and pastas, wild rice, couscous, polenta, and bulgur: 6-11 servings a day. Good source of fiber** and contains amounts of protein.

Complex carbohydrates and protein combination: Peas, kidney beans, lima beans, lentils, and navy beans: 2 servings of these would be the equivalent of one serving of protein and two serving of complex carbohydrates. These types of beans also are high in fiber**.


Monounsaturated Fatty Acids (MUFA): Low to moderate amounts of olive oil (extravirginolive oil recommended) should be consumed with fresh vegetables and salads. Avocados and nuts are also other forms of MUFA's. Recommended intake of MUFA's is between 10-15 percent of total caloric intake.

Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFA): See Fish above.

Simple sugars: Honey should be used as the principle sweetener and sweets (simple sugars) are eaten only a few times per week.

Fiber: Doctors recommend getting between 25-35 grams of fiber a day.

Various foods and their fiber content:

 Order of food lay out: food, Serving, Calories, Grams of Fiber

Apples: 1 medium, 81, 3.5

Prunes: 3, 60, 3.0

Raisins: 1/2 cup, 106, 3.1

Raspberries: 1/2 cup, 35, 3.1

Bean Sprouts: 1/2 cup, 13, 1.5

Broccoli: 1 cup, 40, 4.4

Brussels sprouts: 1 cup, 56, 4.6

Carrots: 1 cup, 48, 4.6

Parsnip: 1 cup, 102, 5.4

Spinach: 1 cup, 42, 4.2

Baked beans: 1/2 cup, 155, 8.8

Dried peas: 1/2 cup, 115, 4.7 

Kidney beans: 1/2 cup, 110, 7.3

Lima beans: 1/2 cup, 64, 4.5

Lentils: 1/2 cup, 97, 3.7

Navy beans, 1/2 cup, 112, 6.0

Bran muffin: 1 muffin, 104, 2.5

Crisp bread, rye: 2 crackers, 50, 2.0

Spaghetti: 1/2 cup, 155, 3.9 

All-bran: 1/3, 71, 8.5

Bran Chex: 2/3, 91, 4.6

Corn Bran: 2/3, 98, 5.4

Raisin Bran-Type: 2/3, 115, 4.0

**Dietary fiber is very important to keep not only your bowels moving, but also to keep our bodies healthy.

So how do you know what the right foods are?

Here's a list (in no particular order) of fruits and vegetables to be eaten on a regular basis to help with feelings of depression, fatigue, and to increase energy. It's recommended they be eaten raw and not cooked.

Red tipped lettuce


Dandelion greens               




Brussels sprouts


Collard Greens* 


Yellow Peppers










*Do not eat dark green leafy vegetables or pineapples if you are on blood thinner medication or have a bleeding disorder

The night before and the day of a game you still need to eat from all the food groups and adding a little more complex carbohydrates is recommended to keep the glycogen levels (energy supply in the muscles) high. Proper rest one to two days before competition is important for building up high glycogen levels.  

Make sure to follow these suggestions for your pre-game meal plans. Be sure to eat the meal three hours before an event. This allows enough time for the foods to be digested. Choose a meal that's high in complex carbohydrates. Eat only moderate amounts of protein. Protein takes longer to digest than complex carbohydrates.  High-protein meals may cause more urine production, which can lead to dehydration. Limit intake of fats and oils, becasue they take too long to digest. Restrict simple sugars (sweets) in foods. Sweets can cause blood sugar levels to change rapidly leading to less energy. Avoid foods and drinks that contain caffeine. Caffeine causes the body to increase body output, which can lead to dehydration. A full bladder can be very uncomfortable.

During the game drinking watered down fruit juices or sports drinks is a quick and good source of energy. In addition, drinking plenty of water to keep your body hydrated is very important.

Thirty minutes after the game or tournament is finished, eat a well balanced meal containing protein and carbohydrates. This is important for building muscles that have been broken down during game play and replacing glycogen levels. It usually takes 2 days to replenish the glycogen supply that has been depleted from playing paintball.

Participating in paintball increases the amount of calories needed. When you train, you increase muscle mass relative to fat. As muscles increase in size, they burn more calories. Playing paintball can easily increase the daily calorie needs of teens and adults over the recommended 2,000. The amount of food needed depends on the athlete's age, sex, weight, and activity level. A larger athelet requires more calories are being burned during short periods of time may be greater due to short bursts of intense activity that occur in completion. Further, the activity levels and calories being burned vary among players due to the positions being played. Players playing back may not need as much calories as those playing front.

Remember to put as much emphasis into the inside equipment as you do into the outside equipment. What you eat daily provides you with the nutrients and energy to sustain you over a longer period of time. In addition, eating the right foods helps you to live a healthier and longer life. Keep playing hard and eating right.

Again this article is from paintball 2 x tremens magazine and was written by Dr. David G. Berkebile

Hope it helps!!!!!!!!!!

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TippyManic32 View Drop Down

Joined: 06 February 2004
Location: Antarctica
Status: Offline
Points: 2668
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 October 2004 at 7:53pm

So you've started to play paintball, its your first game, the gun you are using starts making strange noises and when you go to have someone fix it you can't accuratly describe what has happened because you don't know what it is called. I have seen this happen so many times. So I have compiled a list of some paintball terms that may help out some of the newer players that don't know what these are and for some experienced players that have the wrong meaning. If you find this not worthy of this position please feel free to delete it mods.

Terms and their Definitions  

  A battle or skirmish. Actual combat with enemy forces.

  A hopper (ball holder) that agitates and mixes. The fastest agitator moves 12 balls per

  Also referred to as: CA Adapter. Constant air tank screws into it and lets the Co2 gas
  pass through it.

  Continuous firing of paintgun as long as the trigger is held down. Examples are Angel,
  Shocker, Rainmaker, and TS-1. Many guns now have kits that can make the gun go full

  Requires a squeeze of the trigger to fire each shot.

  Used with pumps. You hold down the trigger and continuously pump the gun and it
  keeps firing.

  A safety device that is inserted into the front end of a barrel to prevent a paintball from
  exiting the barrel.

  It is the device that moves the paintball from the chamber to the barrel.

  BOLT (closed):
  The closed bolt design means that the bolt is in the full forward position with the bolt
  O-ring sealing against the inner wall of the paintgun barrel when gun is ready to be fired.

  BOLT (open):
  The open bolt design means that the bolt is in the full rear position with the bolt just
  behind the feed nipple port (the port that allows the paintballs to flow into the paintgun
  body) when paintgun is ready to be fired.

  It is the air tank.

  Either steel line or micro-line that connects the gun to the air source.

  This is used to hide behind. Examples are natural brush, pallets, trees, or another hiding

  This is done more in tournament play. It is a quick move upon a bunker to eliminate a
  player at close range.

  A plastic molded piece that fits on to the end of a tank allowing it to be used as a
  shoulder stock.

  Electronic device that measures the speed of an object directed across it. The maximum
  limit is 300 fps.

  Carbon Dioxide. This powers a paintball gun.

  A tank is a source of constant air. It powers the paintball gun.

  The number of cycles a paintgun can perform per second. Ex. An angel can cycle in
  excess of 12 times a second. That means it can fire 12 balls in one second.

  Stops 2nd paintball from going into the chamber at once.

  One pull of the trigger cocks and fires.

  Hopper adapter.

  A device which expands co2 before it enters into the paintgun's valve system. It is a
  series of chambers usually 4, 6, or 8.

  Series of valves used to fill small co2 containers.

  Location where a team's flag is kept. It is also the location where a team must return the
  opposing team's flag in order to win the game.

  The extreme right or left side of an army or fleet.

  A horizontal grip generally located on the front of a gun. Used for stability.

  Abbreviation for 'feet per second'. Every field has its own limit but the maximum is

  The amount of shots a gun gets in relation to the amount of liquid Co2 it uses

  Eye protection worn by players to prevent eye damage.

  Liquid Co2 entering the paintgun before it has had a chance to expand into a gas or
  vapor. The gun freezes up and velocity will be very inconsistent.

  The system that is used to haul paintballs, air-system, and anything else they need.
  Called 4+1, 6+1, 8+1, and many more.

  A container used to hold paintballs. Example is vl200, vl2000, Revolution, and vl3000.

  The consistent rapid firing. A tactic typically used when pinning down an opposing

  A dual lens system. The space between the two lenses is called a thermal barrier and
  helps to reduce fogging on the inner lens. Note: lenses should be replaced every year.

  Refers to Nitrogen gas. A gas which is compressed to high pressures. The difference
  between Nitrogen gas and Co2 is that Nitrogen is measured by pressure while Co2 is
  measured by weight. The advantages of nitrogen are: more efficient over the
  chronograph and it is cleaner for your paintball gun.

  A ring which is rubber or neoprene, used as a gasket. Make sure you properly oil your
  o-rings often. This will prolong the life of them.

  A round capsule filled with colored water based dye that is designed to break upon
  impact leaving a splat mark. The most common paintball size is .68 Cal.

  A device used to project paintballs. Often called a marker.

  Used in tournaments. When a player thinks they got hit, they yell paint check. The
  referee comes and checks them over. That person is neutral during this time. They
  can&Mac226;t shoot or be shot at. Along with that you cannot advance on that player.
  This doesn&Mac226;t mean you can&Mac226;t move.

  POWER FEED: It is a common feature on guns today. It increases the rate at which
  paintballs fall into the breech.

  Regulates the pressure of gas flowing through it. Some regulators are preset and some are

  A pin which can be removed quickly to speed disassembly of a player's marker.

  This lets a player disconnect his gun from the air-source quickly.

  REMOTE SYSTEM: The system puts the tank in a pouch or on the player&Mac226;s
  back. A „remote line‰ runs off the tank and connects to the gun. This makes your gun a
  lot lighter. .

  Allows a sight to go onto the gun.

  A sight rail that is raised up off the body of the gun. The purpose for this is to be able to
  see over the power feed system.

  The spray of a paintball. If the spray is bigger than a quarter then the player is called out.

  Used to clean the barrel of a paintball gun.

  A tank designed to allow only vaporous Co2 gas to exit the tank through the tank valve.

  A tank specifically designed to draw liquid Co2 from the bottom of the tank.

  A protective cap that screws onto a tank valve. This keeps the valve from being damaged
  while not in use. I highly recommend this.

  Covers a gun's velocity adjuster/regulators so that the velocity cannot be adjusted during
  game play, Normally required for tournament play.

  Usually a set screw that when turned in either clockwise or counter clockwise direction
  will increase or decrease the paintguns muzzle velocity.

  A hexagonal tool which comes in various sizes. In paintball they are used to adjust the
  paintball gun's velocity as well as disassemble it.

-The Manic

Edited by TippyManic32
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Robotech View Drop Down

Joined: 09 September 2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 425
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 October 2004 at 1:32pm

Buying your First (or next) Marker

You've seen the question time and again.  What marker should I buy?  Should I get a Tippy or a Spyder?  Should I get a Timmy or a Cocker?  These are not easy questions to answer for a number of reasons.  I had originally posted this same article over on the Ariakon forums but since another user here posted my article on upgrading your marker and it was well received, I decided to post this here and let you folks have a go at it as well.  Anything any of you can add to this please feel free.

Where to begin!?

Well, believe it or not you are already on the right track.  With the Internet, information about various markers is right at your fingertips.  However, before you go diving into that, let's take a look at you.

If you are the first time player, you will have different marker needs than someone who has been playing for a while.  First, being the new player you may not know all the different types of paintball that you can play.  It is HIGHLY recommended that before you go out and purchase a marker that you try the sport at your local field and rent a gun for a few times.  This gives you three things:  One, will you like the sport enough to justify spending a few hundred dollars on the equipment? Two, what kind of paintball is played at your local field? Three, what did you like or dislike about the marker you rented/tried?

If you answer no to the first one...well...what can I say?  Either you had a bad experience or you just don't like the sport.  However, the next two questions are a little more difficult to answer. 

What do you play?

Obviously this is a big factor in your purchase.  For instance, if all you have near your home are speedball fields, then a SIM-4 Elite probably isn't going to be for you.  Also, if you have a lot of Woodsball type fields near you, then the Nemesis might not be the marker for you. 

How do you know this?  Simple.  Look around at what other's are using and see why they chose their markers.  Ignore any comments that go along the lines of "It looked cool" (exception to this are MilSim markers like the SIM-4 and SIM-5...with MilSim Scenario games looks actually is a big part of it but more on this later), "my buddy had one", or other undefinable reasons.  Things to listen for are items like reliability, ease of use, maintenance, cost, performance, where they got it, and general owner satisfaction.  Why these are important we'll discuss later.

Also important is to find out (ask if you need to) what they DON'T like about their marker and listen for markers that they may want to get.  Now, take that last part with some caution as many players will tell you what their dream set up is and not what they really will be buying next.

Yes, you in the back with your hand up?  What about the Internet you say?  Well, right now isn't the time to go there yet...don't get ahead of the class.

What YOU like.

Now that you've found out what type of paintball is played by your home and what others find as being important factors in their decisions we move on to what you liked about the markers you have tried.

First, when you try a marker try to record it's name so you can remember it later.  Also, remember that the first marker you try is going to be the "best one ever" until you try others so try to put some variety in their if you can.

Next, how did the marker feel?  Was it comfortable?  Was it too heavy?  Did you think it was too long?  Did it have issues or was difficult for you to use?  Was it unbalanced?  These are the things you want to ask yourself.  You will probably find that there were a couple things you would have changed about the marker and other things that you really liked.  Start making a list of these likes and dislikes so that you have a better idea of what options you want on your new marker.

Unless you  have a money tree...

Or are independently wealthy, you are going to have a budget for your new marker.  There is nothing you can't have on a paintball marker, but all it takes is money.  Also, don't forget you're going to need things like an air tank, hopper, mask, pods, squeegie...well...a lot of other stuff suffice to say if this is your first marker.  (Obviously people that have already been playing a while already have this stuff)  Regardless, you will only have a set amount to spend and this is going to limit your decisions.  Figure out how much you can afford before setting off to look for your marker.

To the 'NET!

Now that you have an idea of what features you want your marker to have and what your budget is, it is time to hit the Internet. 

Hold on now, it's not time to start posting...it's time to start reading.  Your goal here is to start finding markers that have some of the features you want and then find out how much they cost so  you can see if they fit into your budget.  You may have found one or two particular features you MUST have.  Start by using Yahoo or Google to search for those key features.  You'll find that the more you read and the more your research, the more you'll know what it is you're looking for.

Take notes or bookmark pages that are relevant to your search so you can find them later.  Nothing worse than remember you read a valuable post somewhere and not remember where.

Soon, you are going to start to get an idea of what markers will fit your budget.  You may have 2 or you may have 20 but either way, you now have a starting point for your shopping.

Personal Preference

Paintball markers are kind of like clothing...everyone has what they like.  One thing to take into consideration when getting your first marker is that you HAVE to like it. Once you buy it, if you want to sell it figure that you'll get about half what you paid for it.  So buying something that you like is important.  This is where looks come in to play.  You may like the way one marker looks over another and there is nothing wrong with that.  Don't be afraid to decide between two different markers just because one looks cooler than the other...just so long as both markers are in your budget and have the features you want.  Nothing is worse than getting a cool looking marker that isn't at all what you were looking for performance wise.

Also, while we're talking about performance, understand that there are some markers out there that do not perform very well but are very inexpensive.  Like I said, I'm not going to name names, but if you do your research, you'll see which markers I'm talking about.  Your best bet is to stay away from these no matter how good of a price they have.  Trust me, nothing is more frustrating than going to play paintball and spending the majority of the day trying to make your marker work.


Not  yet, actually.  There are a couple things you want to do before you buy.  First time buyers need to consider a couple things before they get their first marker.

  1. Buy New.  As a new paintball player, you don't know what too look for in a used marker.  I know it is tempting to hit E-bay to get that great deal, but unless you know what questions to ask buying used is best done when you have some marker owner experience under your belt.
  2. Maintenance.  Your new marker is going to require maintenance so if you look at a screwdriver and cringe, you're going to need some help.  This means it may be better to get the marker at your local shop.  Sticking to markers they carry will ensure that someone can help you maintain your marker and service it if you have problems.  If you happen to have friends that are into paintball, getting a marker that they are familiar with might be something to consider too.
  3. Your local shop.  It is important to take this into consideration especially as a new player.  Even if you get your marker from mail order, chances are that you will be going to your local shop for air, paint, and probably option parts for that marker.  Many shops won't touch a marker that wasn't bought there so that's something else to consider as well.  And while we're talking about upgrades, unless you don't mind waiting for parts in the mail, buying a marker that your local shop supports with option parts is something to consider as well.
  4. Mail order.  Generally speaking I love mail order.  Waiting for parts to arrive makes every week feel like Christmas.  No lie. :) For me, I went with a marker I could only get through mail order because it was what I wanted (after much research) and for me it wasn't an inconvenience.  Also, I have a couple local shops that somewhat support this line (but very little) and found the on-line forums for the manufacturers (like Tippmann) very supportive and helpful.  This made getting this marker as my first marker a very enjoyable, and painless, experience.  But if you go this route you better be mechanically inclined and don't mind doing a lot of research so that you know EXACTLY what you are getting into.

K.I.S.S. (thanks to Armorer over at Ariakon for reminding me of this)

This is something for those of you who are still pretty new to the sport.  If you've never heard the term K.I.S.S., it stands for Keep It Simple, Stupid.  (No, not calling you stupid, it is just what it stands for.) What this means to the less experienced paintball player is you are better off getting a K.I.S.S. simple marker rather than something that requires a lot of knowledge to get it working right (Autocockers are one type that come to mind).

Here's why.  Like I mentioned before, markers need maintenance. Eventually, you are going to have to work on it.  After all, once you go out and play with it for the first time you are going to have to come home to take the marker apart and clean it.  Some markers require very little maintenance and if you aren't so mechanically inclined these might be a better choice for you. 

Realize that some things that makes some markers "better" than others are their complexity and their tolerances (how well the parts fit each other...tighter tolerances=more precision).  Both of these traits mean that these markers will fail more frequently IF they are not properly maintained. Tippmanns are perhaps the most trouble free markers on the planet when users fail to properly maintain them.  They are very forgiving in this respect.  Even so, it is good to get in the habit of maintaining your marker no matter how forgiving it may be.  Other markers such as Spyders require a better maintenance routine. With proper maintenance, any marker will be reliable.

In another part of the entire "complexity" issue are the aforementioned Autocockers.  Now, this is by no means picking on Autocockes but they make a very good example.  Because of the way they work, Autocockers have to be "timed" to operate at their peak efficiency.  From the factory they are set to work properly for the user but not at their absolute best.  Experts in paintball have probably written master's dissertations on the proper techniques to time a 'cocker.  Even experienced paintball players can be left frustrated on the sidelines by this experience.  If you are not the mechanically adept type, an overly complicated marker may not be for you.

Time to put the cash on the barrel head

Okay, now you have a number of markers chosen and have a good idea of what kind of place you want to buy it from.  Hopefully you will only have a couple markers to choose from by this point (or, better yet, just one).  Now how do you decide.  Well, that's actually more up to you than anyone else. Maybe you can find one a little cheaper than the other, perhaps one is a color you like better or maybe your friend had one like this one so you want to get one like his...or one that isn't like his.  This is the point in the process that you will decide which marker to make YOURS and yours alone. 

Maybe you have a very tough decision and can't decide.  Perhaps you'll want to post on the forum and ask them what they think you should get.  Believe it or not, this is a BAD idea. It is actually just going to make matters worse.  The best thing you can do in this situation is to go out and SEARCH for comparisons between these two markers and read what is already there.  Also, pbreview is a decent source for this kind of information too where you can read reviews by people who actually own the product.  Again though, remember to make up your own mind AFTER you read EVERYTHING you can find. 


Buying your first marker is a big step.  Buying your next marker doesn't get any easier.  I hope this guide at least gives you some tools so that you make a well informed purchase and that whatever you get is exactly what you wanted. 

Good luck, and remember, it is all about having fun!

New to the sport?

Proud owner of a WS-66 A-5 ACP
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Radix View Drop Down
Title Whore

Joined: 13 May 2004
Location: Neutral Zone
Status: Offline
Points: 796
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 November 2004 at 11:08pm
Hears a list for newbies that might help out. this list has alot of paintball websites to order from if there wondering where to order from



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PB_freak-04 View Drop Down

Joined: 04 October 2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 477
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2004 at 4:02pm

Written by Jeffrey Laporte (President and Captain of Raven Paintball Club and Owner/Operator of Unlikely Heroes)


    ive decided to make a post on this topic.

As you can see from my title above unlike other authors, which are not many on this topic I have seen it from both sides.  Yes I have read all the other articles that I can find on this subject and it bothered me a bit, quiet a bit because there is not a lot on it, but I can understand why, no one really knows what to write.  So I will try and help out with these and even explain how a lot of it works.

    Now first off to understand that there is NO SUCH THING AS A FREE LUNCH.  This goes with paintball sponsorship and sponsorship for other sports as well.  Companies are not going to give you free stuff unless you are a Pro-Level or high placing Amature A or B level team.  Also what you hear about companies and fields not giving money or product to unproven teams is in general true.  Now if you have been playing at your local field for a while and they know you by name and have seen you and your team's playing style then it is possible to get a little bit out of them.

    Stores/fields and stores do not like to sponsor unproven teams or teams that haven't gone to tournaments before, because there is no guarantee that they will get promotion from you or that you will even play them in the future.  I have teams that I sponsors that tell me they are going to 3 or 4 tournaments and because of one thing or another, they do not.  I do not want to pull my sponsorship because of stuff like that but it makes me very very careful next time, so the next team or teams that I sponsor get even more rules and less sponsorship and such.

    This is a two way street, sponsorship.  You are not getting free stuff, and some sponsors will not give much or might change their sponsorship from year to year.  Also when companies ask what you can do for them, don't just tell them, "well we will tell everyone how great our sponsors is, and advertise on our banner and jerseys".  Everyone will do that for me.  I want to know what is special about you that is different from Robbie Newbie's Team down the street.  Then if you promise to put name's on a jersey and such, that will come out of your pocket.  Now you and your sponsors go to the same events, prove to them that you have held up your end of the bargain.  Take pictures of your team, especailly with silk screened logoed jerseys (or t-shirts whatever) to show your sponsor that you have done that.

    How to get sponsorship is the hardest question to answer and at times will seem impossible.  Chances are no paintball industry company will sponsor your team.  Now I do not mean fields and stores but the manufacturers they are more inclinded towards the higher profil, winning pro and Amature A teams.  Fields and stores are you first and best bet for a good first or second sponsor.  Your local store (or maybe online store) or field might be willing to help you pay for some entry fees, or give you free or very discounted jerseys, discounts on product and such.  But this will come at a cost to you.  Your team will have to promote that store or field, do not take a store or field who you have not or will not buy off of, we know that, and hate that.  Plus if you can't back up your support to other teams we know when you are faking it and some of the better stores or fields around anyways.  Next you will probably have to help out at the field during tournaments or other events, this will vary from field to field.  For stuff like this do a cost comparision.  If you work 50 hours at the field to get $50 off a jersey you just got paid $1 per hour of work.  THINK ABOUT THIS.  Know what you are getting and giving in terms of sponsorship.  Now discount on products will vary because that will depend on what you buy on how much you will save.  But for free items and such think about it.

    The first sponsor will be the hardest to get.  I have noticed that the first 2 or 3 sponsors that you do not know really well does make it really hard to get but it can and will get easier as you begin to think outside the box, as the saying goes.  Raven Paintball Club's first sponsor was Showcase in the D'Olean's mall and I really appreciate all that John from Showcase has done for us.  He took a big chance on us and I hope that he see's that its worth it.  I also received sponsorship from SMT Adventures for myself only though, so Raven was still on their own.  Now this year 2001 we have 8 sponsors for a team/club that still hasn't won any events but we are currently doing better and better now that we have a full team to play with and practice with.  How many industry companies do we have 1, Kermode Concepts, 1 paintball field and store which is SMT Adventures in Smith Falls which now sponsors Raven Paintball Club, and 1 online Store which is Unlikely Heroes for gear and supplies.  Everyone else is outside the paintball industry but help us out in their cases monetarily.

    Who can you look to for sponsorship.  Well think about this and use your head.  First don't be a bunch of friends that are thinking about entering tournaments, hopefully you have a set team that practices together and have played tournaments together under your own dollar.  Do not lie to companies if your team only believes it will enter 3 tournaments this year say so.  But don't forget when you practice you are still a team and can tell everyone about your sponsors.  Now if your team is a 3 person team, hopefully you have 4 players as one is a backup.  Each of you probably have a job, and therefore 3 potential sponsors, each of you probably live with someone (parent or guardian) therefore 3-6 more potential sponsors.  Maybe your parents own their own business, what about that and their suppliers.  See how this can add up really quick.  Also when attempting to get new or your first sponsor know the numbers game.

    Numbers game?  What I mean is know how many players play paintball in your given area.  If you are going to a tournament know how many players will be there and how many spectators.  This is a target audience for you to advertise too for your sponsors.  If they have stickers or such, even if you have to buy them, get some and put them on cases, visors, toolboxes, hoppers, markets, tanks, whereever they may be seen to help them and you.  For instance, for the 2002 season Raven Paintball Club will be playing in Skyball, and hopefully 4 GTPL tournaments (hopefully more, I would love to go to 6 of them but I need sponsors to accomplish this), and the last one we are going to be trying to attend is the Wasaga Beach, Beach Blitz (10 man especially with some other teams to go and play).  Ok for Skyball, this is a 5 man event, last year there were over 200 teams in attendance and 10'000 visiting spectators who didn't play.  Therefore that is a target audience of over 11'000 people, assuming it stays the same size.  One of our (RPC) greatest advantages is our website which we keep semi (hey I am trying) up to date with info, tournaments, fields/stores, sponsors (ours), reviews and articles (like this one).  We get over 90 hits a week and growing.  With us off Crosswinds now I hope to increase that number by Christmas to about 175 a week is my goal.  Therefore there is more advertising and assistance you can get.

    Sometimes you can get sponsors that will help you with projects or things that don't directly affect you but can indirectly affect you.  Like if I have a website developer make me a webpage for RPC and put his advertising where I allow him/her (because its still my page).  This will help them show off what they can do and everyone will see it and help us with a nicer more user friendly and technologically advance website to show off and get more sponsors.   But one thing is make sure what you get you can use it.  If someone was to make me a site but I can't update new reviews or changes that have been made.  Then it is of no use to me, and yes I have tried that they will keep it updated for me, since I am not paying it just doesn't work.



Any team that plays paintball knows how expensive this sport can become, hundreds of dollars can be spent on a tournament style marker, barrels, mask, packs, pods, paint, air, tanks, jerseys, the list goes on and on. How does a team make playing paintball affordable; the answer is sponsorship?

What is sponsorship and how do I go about getting sponsored, you may ask? Before I go into that, let me give you a little history about my team "Sudden Impact". We have been playing tournament paintball for about two years and currently have about 8 sponsors, Raven, Nelson Paintballs, Millennium Paintball Field, JC Robinson's Attic, Allan Paintball Products, Affordable Plumbing of Jacksonville, and PCS Consulting. Some of these names you are very familiar with and some of the sponsors are non-paintball companies, and yes we even sponsored by a plumbing company. As you can see there are numerous opportunities for the dedicated team to get sponsored.

Back to the issue at hand, what exactly is sponsorship? Sponsorship is entering into a mutually beneficial agreement with a company, where both parties get something they need or want. In most cases you either have to provide an advertising outlet for a company or do some kind of work. For example, most paintball related companies want their sponsored teams to wear their products, display banners at tournaments, and put their products on your website. A paintball field may want you to referee a tournament or work a couple of weekends. In both cases the sponsor is getting something for their generous donations of cash or products.

Now that you know what sponsorship is, how do you go about getting one? First and foremost a team has to ask themselves if they are sponsorship worthy. Would a company want to sponsor you? Does your team have a lot of tournament experience, how long has your team been together, does your team show sportsmanship, and how many tournaments do you plan to play in the upcoming year. These are all things most sponsors look at. Put yourself in the sponsor's shoes, would you want to invest time and money into a team that has not proved themselves or even played in a tournament; what does the sponsor get out of the deal? If you still think your team is sponsorship worthy, lets get started.

Most paintball-related sponsors have forms that you can fill out on their website, they ask many of the questions I have already covered. To set yourself apart form the crowd you will want to take the extra time and effort to put together a bound portfolio of your team. Have a section that list the teams experience and future plans, and a section for each player with photographs and a brief history. You may want to write a summary of what you could do for the sponsor and how your team would go about doing it. Always be polite and neat when putting together your team portfolio, and remember to be organized. For some of the non-paintball sponsors, it may be as simple as asking the owner or doing a little advertising for them.

Team Portfolio - Sections & Points to Remember
Give information about your team's experience and history.
Include your team's future plans and goals. Where does your team want to end up?
Include an individual section for each player with pictures and a brief background about each player.
Include a summary. Tell your prospective sponsor why sponsoring your team will benefit them. What can your team offer that others can't? What makes your team worthy of sponsorship?
Remember to make the portfolio neat, clean, and well organized. Include a cover page and use a bound portfolio. Make it look as professional as you can.
Submit your team for sponsorship, make sure you understand what contracts you are entering into and be sure you can live up to your end of all sponsorship agreements.

Now comes the hard part, the waiting. If you have not heard from the potential sponsor in three or four weeks you need to call them or send them an e-mail. Be courteous and polite and remind them who you are and who your team is, they go through hundreds of applications, so be patient. And like you've heard your parents say "don't put all your eggs in one basket", apply to three or four different places, all sponsors are not looking for exactly the same thing. If a particular company does not want to sponsor you, send them a thank you note and apply again later, ask them what your team could do to be considered next year. Hopefully you can pick up a few good sponsors and your "out of pocket" expenses will start to decrease.

A word of caution: most of these sponsorships are contracts, so if you or your team can not fulfill your part of the bargain, do not waste the sponsors time and money when they could be using it on another team. Read the contract carefully, have a team meeting to go over the details. Most sponsors like to be kept to date on the team's progress, so be prepared to send them updates and keep in touch with them. Now that some of your costs are decreased, your team can enjoy what paintball is all about, having fun and competing in one of the greatest spots on the planet!

See you in the middle,

Sudden Impact

© 2001 DirectPaintball.com


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Menohl View Drop Down

Joined: 13 January 2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 586
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 January 2005 at 6:22pm

Here's some good info for new players, tons of video's about everything you ever wanted to know about paintball:

Basics of Paintball
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