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nachos18 View Drop Down
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Strike 1 - Selling trash

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 November 2003 at 10:29pm
since this is the uber thing( i never remember the name) i should post this here, i accidentaly posted it in another place...sorry.

I just wanted to post this so everyone can see the shipping costs of some paintball sites. If anyone knows the costs that i am missing in my post, the ones that have ???, please tell me, or if anyone wants to add another website tell me. I know that to me, if somebody had posted this about 1 month ago, it would have been really helpful, because money is money, and saving some with the shipping costs can help you buy another thing later.

888paintball.com-Very low prices on almost all the products, they are guaranteed, so if you find anything lower they will beat it

Ground shipping: Free ground shipping
3day shipping: ???
*3 cases of paintballs=free shipping

paintballwarehouse.com

Ground shipping: $7.92
3day shipping: $11.83

paintballgear.com-very big catalogue, has about every brand in the paintball market.

Ground shipping: $8.50 Free with orders above $100
3day shipping: $17.71

shop4paintball.com
Ground shipping: $8
3day shipping: ???

countypaintball.com-well,i can honestly say that more than 50% of the forum members know of it, and many of them have bought from it. Great prices, cheap shipping.

Ground shipping: $6.82
3day shipping: $7.90

mrgoodsports.com-great prices in tippmann accesories, you buying for your tippmann marker, you have to buy it here.

Shipping and Handling (only this choice):$5.50

thepaintballstore.com-wow!!!, huge selection of paintball markers and accesories in a very well organized manner, evry accesory for a gun in is a separate category.I think it has more things than 888paintball and paintball gear.

Ground shipping: $9.50 free in orders $200+
3day shipping: ???
Tax(included in all other sites above)
Texas 6.25%
Florida 7.00%
New Jersey 6.00%
California 7.25%
All other states 0%

xtremepaintball.com

Ground shipping: $5.50, free in orders above $89 with coupon code "coupfreeground"
3day shipping:$17.95

paintballonline.com

Ground shipping: $7.99
2day shipping: $11.65 (no 3 day shipping available, but 2day is really cheap)

paintballfirst.com

Ground shipping: $7.24
3day shipping: $12.92

thepaintballshack.com

Ground shipping:$6.00
3day shipping: $9.95
Texas tax: $2.15

800paintball.com-couldnt find this one out, but they have a great selection, if anyone does find it please pm me or post it here

Ground Shipping:???
3day shipping:???
*3 cases of paintballs=free shipping

paintballexpress.com

Ground Shipping:$9.03
2day shipping:$14.47
Next Day Air:$30.97
paintballoutlet.com

Ground shipping: $12.40
3day shipping: $15.16

paintballwizard.com

Ground shipping:$8.23 free on orders above $99
3days shipping:$11.15
Insurance: $0.25

Coupons that are available in most websites do not include the price of the objects with the shipping. For example if their is a coupon that lowers $10 from every order above $50, and you ordered a $40 barrel, and shipping is $11, the coupon will not have any effect

Edited by nachos18

FREE RELOADER Bs AND OTER STUFF!
GO HERE FOR MORE INFO

YOU CAN ALSO IM ME FOR INFO (ignaciocubero)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2003 at 12:35am

Hey What about the Good Old Search Button? http://www.tippmann.com/players/forum/wwf77a/forum_images/se arch.gif

Just because when I first got here I was told to search and see if my questions had aleady been answered in another post. Even though I have done my fare share of wrong things on the fourm(thanks To KRL for being there to warn me of what I was doing wrong, and for giving me tons of second chances) Ive found that the search button to be alot of help to me. SO I would recomend it to the new people aswell. And dont be afraid to PM a more experienced Fourmer. They come in handy for answering questions aswell.

thats my lil bit, hoped it helped in some way...



Edited by Reb Cpl
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2003 at 8:28pm

Here are a bunch of things that are usful in woodsball. I am creating a running list. If you have somthing to add that is relevent to this post PM it to me! I am open to your suggestions.

1. Stealth- Is the to any woodsball game. Without stealth you are nothing but a target.

-Move slowly. dont make yourself readily visible. crouch walking or crawling maybe nessary wear you gear accordingly.

-Remember stealth is an art. Practice your movements at home to get better.

-If you see a enemy STOP, get down, then think of you next move. 

2.Movement- Make choice keep moving or stand still. Remember that the human eye tracks in on movement. When you move know where your going and your route to get there.

-Avoid heavily traveled trails, they are where ambushes are made. When abushing stay still, when you move, move fast. If you move and stop that makes you a target. A moving target is harder to hit then a non-moving one. 

-If you are trying to be stealthy look on the ground in front of you PLAN EACH STEP dont step on twigs dry leaves or anything esle that will make unnessesary noise.

3. Ambushes-

-When laying an ambush lay it across well traveled trails and in choke points.

-Place your forces on only one side of the trail, by placing forces on both sides of a trail you run the risk of shooting your own man. Also besure to protact you flanks.

-When ambushing if possible wait for the first target or lead man to get to the last postition ambusher that way usually you will engage the whole group from point to rear gaurd in the kill zone.

-To avoid an ambush think like the enemy. Avoid choke points and well traveled trails look for anything suspisious(spl). 

4. Flanking

-Cover your flanks well. Any smart enemy will flank. Use the point and rear guard system.

- When flanking use stealth. Dont fire until your sure you will hit the target.      

5. Communication. Comms is the key to wining any battle. The team with the best comms will win. Use call signs and location names so the enemy will not know what you are doing if you are using an unencryped radio.

*EDIT* I moved most of the comms stuff to the "teams/Experianced Players" area.

come up with yuor own stuff and use em i find that it works well 


6. Camoflage-wear camo that suits the invroment(spl)

-If there is grass everywhere dont wear realtree, or leaf style camo, wear woodland. If there are lots of leaves wear a camo like advantage or mosssy oak.

-Ghillie suits. Many people ask me what is my optinion of ghillie suits. well here it is. Ghillie suits where designed by the scottish for thier game wardens to hide and stop poachers wtih. They where adopted in the early 1980's my the USMC, well there is you history.

- When buying a ghillie suit remeber two things
1. There are two types of ghillie suits(A) military style. and(B) Civilain style.

The difference is (A) military style is for crawling only. It overlaps your boots, so if you try to run wtih it you will fall.(b) civilian style is for standing only. the ghillie suit itself does not go down much farther than your knees.

-Ghillie suits were made for the military, made for use by people who had had extensive trainging in thier use. I dont suggest anyone to buy a ghillie suit unless they have been properly trained, other wise you will screw it up.

-Arrange your gear so it will be comfortable in any position, crawling included, dont put anything  in hte front of your gearbecause if you have to drop quickly, you will braek anything that is in the front of you. 

Remember all plans fall apart in the heat of battle. Good Luck  

(Disclaimer: I am not responsibly for you stupidity! By doing anything in this post you do so at your own risk. By doing anything in this post you have agrred automaticlly to the Snake6 terms and agreements.)

(Terms and Agreements.(A.) Snake6 is the woodsball king.(B.) you will pay money to Snake6 every time you use one if his ideas.(C.) Above all Have Fun!)

-------Stuff for more experianced Players/Teams.---------

-Call signs. Every man (or team) should have its own call sign. mine is SNAKE6. The word snake is just my name on the radio, the 6 stands that i am in a leadership postion

here are some others

5-Means Executive Officer, this guy is second in command. EX: Bravo5

4-Squad leader. Leads a single squad. EX: Bravo4

3-This man is just a normal member of the squad nothing special about him.Ex: Bravo3

2-Designates a heavy weapons person. Machine gun, gernade luancher, ETC. EX: Bravo2

1-Point man the lead man in a specfic group.(some times call on the radio as point.)  

As for squad names I use the callsign of the leader to designate his squad EX: "Snake squad move to location delta, over."

-Radio Prowords- These are the words that explain you situation on the radio, the bueatiful thing about these is if the enemy does not know your proword they will not understand you.

-if you have an encrypted radio then you woulnt have to worry about interception.

Common prowords and explanations are shown below.

Proword Explanation
AFFIRMATIVE You are correct, OR, what you have transmitted is correct. Yes.
BREAK I hereby indicate the separation of the text from all other portions of this message.
CORRECT You are correct. That is correct.
CORRECTION An error has been made in this transmission. Transmission will continue with the last word correctly transmitted.
DISREGARD THIS TRANSMISSION, OUT This transmission is in error. Disregard it. (This proword will not be used to cancel a message that has been transmitted and receipted for by the receiving station.)
DO NOT TRANSMIT, OUT Stations called will not answer this call, receipt for this message, or otherwise transmit regarding this transmission. (When this proword is used, the transmission will always end with the proword “OUT”.)
FLASH This message has a precedence of FLASH.
FROM The originator of the message immediately follows.
IMMEDIATE This message has a precedence of IMMEDIATE.
INFO The addressees immediately following are addressed for information only. No action is required of them.
I READ BACK The following is in response to your request to read back.
I SAY AGAIN I am repeating the transmission, or the portion you need repeated.
I SPELL I will spell the next word phonetically.
I VERIFY That which follows has been verified per your request (to be used only as a reply to a VERIFY request).
LOCATION These are places on the field that your team leader designates as important places. by using these names instead of saying the actual naem of the place you reduce the risk of the enemy hearing then understanding your transmission. Location names are designated from Alpha to Zulu using the phonentic alphabet.        &am p;am p;am p;nb sp;         &am p;am p;am p;nb sp;         &am p;am p;am p;nb sp;         &am p;am p;am p;nb sp;         &am p;am p;am p;nb sp;         &am p;am p;am p;nb sp;         &am p;am p;am p;nb sp;   MESSAGE FOLLOWS A message that requires recording follows.
MORE TO FOLLOW I have more messages, traffic, or information for you.
NEGATIVE Not received. No.
NOTHING HEARD To be used when no reply is received from a call.
OUT This is the end of my transmission to you and no answer or reply is required or expected.
OVER This is the end of my transmission to you and an answer is required or expected.
PRIORITY This message has a precedence of PRIORITY.
READ BACK Repeat this transmission back to me exactly as received.
RELAY (TO) Transmit this message to all addressees immediately following this proword.
RELAY THROUGH Relay your message through _____.
ROGER I have received and understand you last message. (Does NOT mean yes or permission granted.)
SAY AGAIN Repeat the portions of your last transmission I am indicating.
SPEAK SLOWER Your transmission is too fast. Reduce speed.
THIS IS This transmission is from the station whose call sign immediately follows.
TIME The figures that follow are the Date/Time Group (DTG) of this message.
TO The addressee(s) who are to take action, and to whom this message is to be delivered are as follows.
UNKNOWN STATION The identity of the station I am trying to contact is unknown (used in place of that station’s call sign).
VERIFY Verify entire message (or portion indicated) with the originator and send the verified version (used by receiving station).
WAIT I must pause for a few seconds. Standby. Do not transmit. Wait for me to continue with my transmission (the proword OUT is not used).
WAIT OUT I must pause for more than a few seconds. This contact is terminated until I call you again. The net can continue.
WILCO I have received, and understood, and will comply. (Note: Since the meaning of the proword ROGER is included, the two prowords are not used together.)
WORD AFTER The word to which I have reference is that which follows ______.
WORD BEFORE The word to which I have reference is that which precedes ______.
WORDS TWICE Communication is difficult. Transmit each word or phrase twice (may be used as a request or a statement of intent).
WRONG Your last transmission was incorrect. The correct version is ______.

-Some of these will not be used yery often but are good to know. These prowords are use most often within teams.

- If the other team doesnt know your prowords then you haqve 100% secure comunications.

-Using prowords.

To call another team/person. Say the team/persons name twice them say "this is" and your name then say "over."(every transmission should end with over.) The team/person should respond with "go ahead" your name and ten "over."

To say your information. After the other person/team is call as explained in the above paragraph, use the correct prowords to say what you need to tell them. Then end the transmission with "over."

Ending communications. after you have made your last transmission to the ther person/team say "thsi is" your name,then "out." 

-Using locations. Locations are named from Alpha to Zulu using the ponetic alphabet. Your team leader desides on location names before the game begins and all the team members write them down or memerize them. 

EX:"Snake6 move to location Charlie, over" unless the enemy knows your code words then you dont have to worry about them knowing what your doing. Its that simple.

For Comms i use an uniden GMRS radio with a lapel mic and earbud headphone.

come up with yuor own stuff and use em i find that it works well.

 Hand signals. Hand signals are useful when you are using a squad formation or when the members of you team are close by.

Examples of a few basic signals are :

[Point to yourself]
        I will move /shoot / etc.
[Point to your eyes,(usually index and middle in a 'v')]
        I see
[Point to your ears]
        I hear
[Point to one of your players]
        You will move/shoot etc.
[Thumb Up]
        OK/I understand/Ready/Reloaded etc.
[Thumb Down]
        Down/Bad/Negative
[Hold up a closed fist]
        Stop dead in your tracks and don't move.
[Flat opened hand, palm down, and arm extended at a 45 degree angle above your head, then lowered to the ground]
        Get down, don't move.
[Pat top Of Your Head]
        Head count.
[Raise fist to shoulder, thrust fist up/down above shoulder several times]
        Rush, Increase Speed, Double Time
[Point In Direction]
        Move/shoot/enemy etc. in that direction.
[Make a 'gun' with index finger and thumb]
        Can then be used for shoot in that direction.
[Draw finger across throat]
        Enemy /opposition / the bad guys / danger area.
[Point to person(s), beckon by holding arm horizontally to the front, palm up, and motion toward body]
        Join me, Follow me, Come to me.
[ Extend arm vertically overhead and wave arm and hand to front, left, right, and rear with palm toward direction of each movement]
        Disperse
[Raise fist to ear with thumb and little finger extended]




Edited by Snake6
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 December 2003 at 12:53am
This is now a re-repeated, remodified and reimproved post targeted specifically for new players & members.

I know all of the members have at one time or another read the same question(s) hundreds of times from well meaning topic starters who didn't know how to begin. Most of these were written nearly identically to the one we read on the same topic last week. I also know almost all of the regulars have at one time or another told someone (newbie or not) to use the search button. I hope to give you enough information to prevent you from getting flamed by well-meaning, but tired and frustrated regulars.

I will begin the request of all of you by asking that you search first and post your question after being unable to find your answer. The search button is located in the upper right hand corner of every page and looks like this:
                                                     
Furthermore, at the bottom of each post is another search button that looks like this:
                                                   
It is preset to search for other threads & posts by the author of that reply / post.

But that is only the first part of being a good Forum member. I encourage you to open your own threads when ever you cannot find an answer (as opposed to hijacking one = jumping onto someone else's thread with different issues). But before you do, I need to address how POORLY people phrase the titles of the subject. The subject title is the primary way to look for an issue and it should be the best way. Currently, it is not. I challenge YOU to look at the first page or two of any of the sections of the Forum. You will see titles with such great details as:
  • I have a problem
  • I need help with this
  • I have this great idea
  • What do you think about this?
  • What happened?
  • Can you help me?
and the list goes on and on and on. The problem is not primarily with the people not trying to search (although that does happen). The problem is that all of our good effort goes into threads whose titles are not descriptive of the issue.

Help us to fix this problem and to make the search button more useful to you. When you start a new thread, be descriptive. Look at the following topics for suggestions of what to include in the title.

Problems with your marker:
  • Type of marker (i.e. A-5)
  • The Problem (i.e. gas leak, double firing, breaking paint, ...)
Product or Upgrade questions:
  • Type of product (i.e. marker, barrel, trigger, hopper, air source, vendor, ...)
  • What marker you are using (if appropriate - i.e. if you aren't looking for a marker)
  • If looking for multiple upgrades, at least include the marker & what you want it for (tournament {and position}, wood ball, scenario, ...)
Ideas or Thoughts & Opinions:
  • The idea or the issue obviously
Events:
  • The name of the event
  • The date of the event
  • The location
The Gallery:
  • Your name (or its name if you named it - LOL)
  • Type of marker (i.e. A-5)
Now I come to my final request & instruction to start a new post, if you could not find what you wanted by searching. In the upper right hand corner inside each Forum section, just above the Author / Message / Topic Bar, is a button that looks like this:

                                                 

Tap this button to open the Post New Topic window. If you include all of the information discussed above and title your message appropriately, you will find the information you need, and become a resource for others.

If we all follow some simple guidelines, the search button can be a much more effective tool for all of us. It also makes it more likely to get good help as there are those out there who screen which threads they open by their title (myself included). I will not say you MUST follow these. But I will say that following these will keep you out of trouble and make it easier for others to help you & for you to even help others.

Thank you for making our Forum a better place.
A-5: 12" J&J Ceramic, E-grip, DF w/88ci HPA, MP5 sliding stock

68-Special: 14" J&J Ceramic, 12V Revy, Siphon Tank

SMG-68: Want new barrel

External Line SMG-60: Siphon Tank

SL-68: Silencers
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 December 2003 at 6:29pm

HOW TO PULL OFF THE PERFECT TAPE BUNKERING MOVE

1) shoot a lot of paint down the tape b/c most likely some back player will be covering him.

2)Run for his/her bunker give him/her a couple of love taps and stay in their bunker.

It is simple if you have the guts to make the move

WGP 2003 Vertical
E-Blade Autococker

20 bps. One of them is bound to hit you!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2003 at 10:21am

This gos against many of your posts, but this is true for real gun fights, and it is a proven way to lessen the chance of getting hit.

R-U-N, do not camp, camping only increases the chaces of one thing: getting hit!. While you are running the chance of getting hit is 4/100, not too likely, huh??? (Remember that those statistics are for REAL guns, so with paintball guns the odds are even better. )

Hope that helps!

~DAN~

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2003 at 8:45pm

*Erased Information*

 

Sorry.

But I will Leave Safety Statistics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sports Injuries Report

 

SPORT

Yearly injuries per 1000 Participants

Water Skiing

260.84

Lacrosse

223.79

Wrestling

36.46

Rugby

31.21

Football

30.17

Baseball

28.42

Hockey

21.92

Basketball

19.76

Soccer

12.59

Boxing

11.34

Bicycle Riding

11.71

Gymnastics

10.49

Volleyball

4.03

Ice Skating

3.83

Snowmobiling

3.52

Snow Skiing

2.99

Racquetball

2.77

Tennis

2.77

Handball

1.92

Fishing

1.43

Swimming

1.34

Golf

1.22

Archery

0.85

Boating

0.75

Bowling

0.47

Paintball

0.24

Other injuries

LOCATION

Yearly injuries per 1000 Persons

Home

93

Work Place

66

Moving Vehicles

22

Street

19

 



Edited by PaintballWizard

Paintball Videos.
www.smacktalkpaintball.com
webdogradio.us
www.forceofnature.com
and www.google.com
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 December 2003 at 12:09am

Basic Paintball Terminology
A plain English Paintball Dictionary

These are terms that are used in the sport of paintball. This is not a complete list, but it will help you understand what people are talking about at the paintball field!


------------------------------------------------------------ --------------------

Agitator

An agitator is a device that has been incorporated into a paintball hopper which helps paintballs drop into the feed tube more steadily. This is accomplished by a small LED sensor, which will detect the absence of balls in the feed tube. This sensor then activates a small servo motor which agitates (moves and shakes) the balls in the hopper.

Airsmith:

A person trained in airsmithing :). A certified airsmith has been trained to work with high-pressure gasses and everything relating to them (hoses, valves, etc.). They understand how markers work, and know how to work on them safely and keep them safe for the customer. Most

Markers and their warranties require work done by certified airsmiths, if not warranties may be voided.



ASA (Air System Adaptor)

The ASA is the threaded adaptor on a marker into which the constant air tank (bottle) is screwed into.

Auto Trigger

A device incorporated into many pump guns (and all new ones as far as I know) which allows the user to fire the gun with each pump of the gun. In a non-equipped gun, the user must pump the gun, then pull the trigger, but with the auto-trigger installed, the trigger is held in the firing position, and the action of the pumping fires the gun. This greatly increases the speed in which a pump gun may be fired.

Back Bottle

A CA setup in which the ASA is located at the back of the gun. The bottle is then screwed into the gun and (usually) a butt plate is placed on the bottom of the tank, providing a (somewhat crude) shoulder stock for the gun.

Barrel Plug

A device that fits into the barrel of a paintball gun that adds to the safety of the gun. Should be in place at all times when not in play.

Barrel break:

When a paintball breaks in the barrel causing the inside of the barrel to be coated with paint. Creates in-accurate shots and more broken paint.

Blowback

Blowback is the CO2 that is deflected off the paintball after the gun is fired.

Bolt

The part of a gun that 'pushes' the paintball out of the gun. This part may or may not be exposed to the air (see open and closed bolt system).

Bottom Line
CA setup that is attached to the bottom of the grip of a paintgun. This method is similiar to the back bottle setup, but is usually superior when used in the same fashoned, because it makes sighting down the barrel easier (less neck streching).

Breech

A port in a paintball gun by which paintballs are loaded into the firing chamber of a paintball gun.


Bring your own paint (BYOP):

Means that at that field or game or tournament, you are allowed to bring and use your own paint, as opposed to FPO (see below).


Burn:

"Burn that bunker while I move." To lay large amounts of paint on a bunker in order to keep the player's head down so he can't see or shoot.



Bunker:

(noun) Any object used for cover. (verb) "Did you see me bunker that guy?" To make an aggressive move on an opposing player and eliminate him at close range while he is hiding behind his bunker.

Butt Pack

A device which holds paintball loaders and attaches to a belt. Usually positioned above ones backside during play.


Center-flag:

A type of game in which one flag is positioned in the middle of the field. Both teams try to get that flag and hang it on the other team's flag station. This is the standard format used in 5-man tournaments.


Closed-bolt design:

Refers to a type of markerin which the bolt lies closed (forward) between firing cycles. Pump guns, Autocockers and Shockers are this way.



Constant Air (CA)

Refillable CO2 cylinder that is attached to a paintball gun. These cylinders provide the power to propell the balls through the gun. These cylinders (or bottles) are made of aluminum or steel, and come in different sizes. (3.5, 7, 12, 16 and 20 oz for aluminum and 4,9,15 oz in steel). CA systems have all but replaced the older 12 gram cylendars that used to power paintball guns.



Chrony:

"Go chrony your gun." Short for Chronograph- a device used to measure the speed the paintball is traveling as it leaves the barrel. You can adjust this on most modern paintball guns. The industry "speed limit" is 300 feet per second (fps). Many tournaments and commercial fields use a limit of 285 for added safety.



Chrony station:

"Where is the chrony station?" At fields and tournaments, this it the place where players go to chronograph their guns.

CO2

Carbon Dioxide. The most common propellant used in the paintball industry.


Deadbox:

"You are eliminated, go to the deadbox." At a tournament, eliminated players go immediately to a sectioned-off area next to the field called the deadbox where they remain until the game is over.

Drilled Barrel

A barrel (usually aftermarket), that has relief ports drilled into it to help the barrel to shooot farther and more accurately.


Drop-forward/cradle:

A device used to attach your tank to your gun which positions the tank more down and forward to give the 'gun a better balance and feel, and to make the setup more compact.




Dual-flag:

A type of game in which there are two flags- one hung at each team's starting point. The object is then to capture the opponent's flag and return it to your starting flag station. Most 7 and 10 man tournaments use this format, as well as most rec. games.



Electropneumatic:

Refers to a type of marker designed with electronic trigger operation and electronically controlled valve operation. Angels, Shockers, bushmasters, Rainmakers and the Spyder EM1 are this way.


Expansion chamber:

Part of a paintgun. CO2 works much better if the gas is allowed to expand before the gun is fired. On a cold day or during rapid fire, the gun may "go liquid." An expansion chamber allows the gas to expand before entering the paintgun's valve. Expansion chambers serve no purpose on a gun running HP air.

Elbow

A plastic or metal accessory that allows a hopper to be attached to a paintball gun.


Field Paint Only (FPO):

Means that at that field, game, tournament you may only use paint bought at the game site the day of the tournament.

Fill Station

Equipment used to fill CA tanks, usually consitisting of a digital scale, valving and hoses to attach the CA tank to the bulk tank.


Flag station:

In a capture-the-flag game, the flag station is the spot where the flag was originally placed by the referee at the beginning of the game. In a center-flag game, it may also refer to the starting point of each team- the spot where the flag must be hung to win the game.

Full Auto

Machine style paintball marker. Usually not allowed during open session games. Not a very

Sportsman like way to play. Spray and pray tactics. They usually run out of paint before the End of the game.


Going liquid:

Means the CO2 entered your valve in a liquid state affecting performance. You may see ice chunks flying out of your barrel, your gun may freeze (literally), your gun may ramfire. Usually happens on colder days.

FPS

Feet per second.

How fast the paintball is traveling. ASTM regulations require less than 300 FPS and the safety equipment must be tested to this limit.

Goggles

Eye protection. Consists of a heavy duty frame with polycarbonate or lexan lenses. Required for paintball. Must be ASTM approved.

Grenades

A paint filled balloon type device used to lob at opponents or obstacles and take out multiple players in a single use. Effectiveness can vary.

Harness

A harness is used to carry extra paintballs and/or CO2 tanks onto the playing field. Usually used in conjunction with a Remote setup.




HPA:

High pressure Air could be breathable air or Nitrogen gas 3000-6000psi.


Hot:

"That bunker is hot." Means an opposing player is in that bunker.
"You gun is shooting hot." Means the paint coming out of your gun exceeds the velocity limit of that particular field or event.


ID:

"My barrel has a .689 ID." Means Inner Diameter- referring to the inside of the barrel. Paint comes in slightly different sizes. For best accuracy, your paint and barrel should have a good fit. Generally speaking, .687 and below are smallbore barrels, .691 and larger are bigbore barrels and anything in between is midbore.

Liquid

CO2 in a liquid form (as opposed to gas). Almost always a bad think. ("going liquid" usually means that liquid CO2 has entered the paintball gun and the gun is performing erratically.)

Loader

A plastic or cardboard tube used to hold extra paintballs. Loaders are usually carried in a harness or buttback during play.


low pressure:

A term used to describe guns that are engineered to propel the paintball with a lower pressure, higher volume burst of air. Though the statement is controversial, is is often claimed that this increases the effective range of a paintball gun.


Marker:

"Make sure your marker is on safety." A euphemistic term for a paintgun. The first paintguns were manufactured to mark trees and cattle- now they're used to mark people. People feel the term "marker" is less offensive, and maybe more accurate, than "gun."



Mines:

A device designed to spray an opponent with paint when they trip or step on a trigger.

Muzzle Break

Relief Port at the end of a marker barrel which increases accuracy. Can be added on with an aftermarket part or purchased as in integral part of a barrel.


Neck Protector

Device designed to reduce the impact on a paintball hit in the neck area.


Newbie

A new paintball player. Everybody is a newbie at least once.


Night Paintball

Paintball games, supplies and equipment specially designed to play at night.


Nitro/compressed air/HP:

When the paintball industry started looking for a propellant other than CO2, Nitrogen was first used because it was more readily available than high-pressure(HP) air in many areas. Since then, HP has become much more affordable and Nitrogen is rarely used. Still, Nitro is a common (though inaccurate) term to describe a high-pressure air system on a marker.


One for one:

The ref pulled a one for one." A type of penalty used in tournament paintball. Means a player was pulled for cheating and so was his closest teammate. Usually happens when a player plays on or talks after he is eliminated.



Open-bolt design:

Refers to a type of marker in which the bolt lies open (back) between firing cycles. Spyders, Automags, Angels and most other 'guns are this way.

Open Session

A scheduled paintball field event in which the public is welcome to play.


Outlaw paintball:

Refers to just getting together with friends and playing on public or private land somewhere (like the woods behind your house), as opposed to playing at a commercial field or in a tournament.

A non-supervised form of paintball. Sometimes referred to as renegade paintball.


Paintballs:

.68 caliber gelatin capsules filled with a colored glycol based fluid designed to break and mark an Object. Qualities, sizes, colors and uses, vary greatly.

Paintcheck:

"Ref, can I get a paintcheck!?" Means a player needs a ref or another player to check him to see if he's marked or not. Usually used when the hit took place on a part of the body the player can't see at that moment.


Playing on:

A form of cheating. Means a player took an obvious hit, the hit broke and the player continues to play. Usually in tournaments there are stiff penalties for playing on.


Playing "tight":

"OK everybody, play tight." Refers to playing in such a way as to not give your opponents much to shoot at. Not making careless errors, sticking out too far or too long when shooting, etc. Requires good technique.


Pods:

Small plastic containers used to store paint and/or carry paint onto the field. Pods are usually carried in a pack or harness. They normally hold 100-150 rounds and are designed to be sturdy enough to keep the paint inside from being broken by an outside force.

Point Sight

A sight (non-magnifing) which ususally uses a reflective LED to aid in aiming a paintball gun.

Power Feed

A device that uses CO2 blowback to increase the rate which paint- balls are loaded into the gun. This device can also be purchased as an aftermarket part.

Private game

Exclusive field rights to customers for paintball games of their choice.

PSI

Pounds per Square Inch.

Pump

A paintball gun that requires cocking to load each paintball into the gun. Similar to appearance and action to a pump shotgun.

Quick Change

A quick change is used to remove and/or replace a 12 gram CO2 cartridge into the paintgun.

Quick Disconnect

A brass fitting that allows remote users to quickly disconnect the airsource from the paintgun.


Ramfire:

"Why is my 'gun ramfiring?"

On a blowback semi, for whatever reason the hammer is not being "blown" back far enough to catch the trigger sear. This results in a very rapid "full auto" type effect. No, this does not make your Spyder full-auto, it just results in chopping paintballs, a big mess and a useless 'gun. Usually the result of low pressure in the CO2 tank.



Rattle:

"That guy can really rattle that Angel." Means to fire very rapidly.

Rec ball:

"Let's go play some recball this weekend." Short for recreational paintball. Anything non-tournament is usually referred to as recball, from scenario games, to commercial field play, to playing in the woods behind your house.

Registration

Usually a designated safe zone area setup to go through the administration functions of Signing waivers, issuing rentals, and other Paintball related activities done prior to playing.

Regulator

A device which controls the pressure of CO2 before it enters into the paintball gun. Usually allows the paintball gun to operate at a lower pressure, which reduces ball breakage increases the number of shots available from a CO2 source, and reduces variation in CO2 pressure to paintball gun.

Remote

A remote setup is a CA tank that is connected to the paintball gun via a high pressure air line. The CA tank is usually carried in a harness on your back.

Rentals

Term used to describe equipment available for rent at a paintball facility. Markers, goggles, tanks, Safety equipment, coveralls are common rental equipment. Quality, prices and packages vary.

Rifled Barrel

A barrel that has internal groves or holes, either in a straight or spiraled pattern, that help a paintball gun shoot more accurately.

RT

Response trigger. A cheap way to get a full auto capability. Basically a powered trigger.

Scenario game:

An organized game with a theme- such as WWII or Star Wars or some fantasy world. Scenario games usually last all day (some are 24 hours) and have special rules, story lines, etc.

Scuba Fills

Refers to HPA source for filling HPA tanks remotely using a scuba tank.

Season Pass or memberships

A plan in which the paintball field gives special pricing to customers for playing more paintball.

Semi-auto

Refers to the action of the paintball marker. One pull of the trigger fires the paintball and as Part of the action loads the next paintball to be shot.

Speedball:

Refers to the size of the playing field. In the "old days" paintball was always played on huge fields with natural cover (trees, rocks, logs, etc.). In the late 80s, the idea came up to play on smaller "arena" type fields with manmade bunkers. The game was much quicker and was therefore dubbed speedball. Nowadays, speedball refers to a small field filled mostly with manmade bunkers. There's much more emphasis on good technique, fast shooting and aggressive play. It's also more spectator friendly than large forested fields.

Squeegee

A device used to quick clean a barrel of a paintball gun. Usually constructed of either a flexible fleece head or of rigid rubber washers, or both. Any object used to clean the barrel after a barrel break.

Staging area:

"Head back to the staging area." The base of operations for a paintball game. It's where everything starts. Usually paint is sold there, fills are made, cars are parked, etc.

Stock-gun:

A type of paintball gun that is powered by 12gram CO2 containers, is pump action and has a horizontal feed holding no more that 15 rounds.


Straight-shot:

A type of squeegee with a long, straight handle designed to be used without having to take the barrel off.

Stock

A device that attaches to a paintball gun that allows shouldering of the gun and helps steady the gun for a more accurate shot.

"Stock Class"

A game of paintball consisting of pump type paintball guns powered by 12 gram cartriges which must pass through a threaded opening (no cut outs). Auto-triggers and bulk loaders/hoppers are not allowed, the paintball magizine must be parallel to the barrel, and are limited to 20 shots.


Sweetspotting:

"I'm going to sweetspot the back left bunker." To fill a running lane with paint assuming somebody will try to move through it and hopefully through your paint stream. Usually used off the break to keep someone from getting to a key bunker and to get a quick elimination. Usually used on smaller speedball type fields.


Tapeline:

Got a guy on the left tape!!" The field boundary is known as the tapeline. Sometimes a side boundary is called "the wire."


Tapping:

"That guy was tapping on me all game." When a player continually hits another players bunker with paint in order to keep that player down and out of the game for an extended period of time.


Tying up the guns:

"I'm gonna move to there and tie up the guns while you go for the flag." To make a move designed to attract attention from other teammates and cause them to shoot at you. This is a diversionary tactic to get the opposing p team's guns pointed away from one of your teammates so he can make a key move.


The break:

"I'm running to that bunker off the break." The first few moments after the game starts when players are running to their initial bunkers.


The Fifty:

"We got a guy at the fifty!" Means halfway between the two flag stations. As in the fifty yard line on a football field.




The lull:

"Move to that second bunker in the lull." A point in the game just after the break when players are settling into their bunkers. It's a brief period of low activity, and a good time to make a move.



The monkey:

"Find the monkey!!" When the opposing team is down to one player left and you don't know where he is, he is the monkey.

Thermal Lens

Goggle lens that has two panes with a thin gasket between them which allows air to flow between the lenses and decreases 'Fogging' of the lenses. Never touch Or spray anything on the inside of the thermal lens with anything other than approved lens cloth. Ask You paintball dealer for more info.

Tool

Usually an allen or hex wrench used to adjust the velocity of a paintball gun.

Twelve Gram

A small disposable CO2 cartridge (12gm) used to power a marker.

Unified Rupture Disk

A safety device installed on a CO2 tank as a small disk used to vent over pressure CO2 bottles.

Vertical

A setup which positions the bottle vertically (perpendicular to the barrel) on the paintball gun. Helps in avoiding liquid CO2 from entering the gun.

Waivers

Legal documents protecting both the land owners, field operators and players from unnecessary litigation.

Woodsball

A generic term used to describe playing paintball in the woods, field or remote locations.

Zoning:

To determine in advance which part of the field a player is responsible for watching and covering. It's a way to make sure nothing happens on the field that your team doesn't see.
FFKFASOFAA
Erst wenn die Wolken schlafengehn
kann man uns am Himmel sehn
wir haben Angst und sind allein

Gott weiss ich will kein Engel sein
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 December 2003 at 4:58pm
Many people always ask about paint to barrel match. Well, in response to Hell's Orracle saying that paint to barrel match is not in fact important I did my own little test. Here are the results:
Woo! It was a little chilly outside but I was using HPA so that shouldn't have affected my results too much. I used my PB Aradus adjustable bore barrel for this test. I used RPS Bigball paint which is medium bore (.688 aprox.). I was shooting at about 240fps. The target was a bright pink saucer sled and was about 40' away. I fired the paint on three settings:
1) .692
Grouping- 15"x15"
Efficiency- Took about 75psi to give me 10 shots.
Observations- The shots hooked downwards probably due to excessive movement inside the barrel. Some shots missed the target. There were zero breaks and jams.
2) .688
Grouping- 12"x12"
Efficiency- Took about 40psi to give me 10 shots.
Observations- Shots did not hook. No shots missed the target. There were zero breaks and jams.
3) .684
Grouping- 13"x10"
Efficiency- Took about 40psi to give me 10 shots.
Observations- Shots hooked to the right. Some shots missed the target. I actually did not experience any breaks or jams.

Conclusion- The .688 setting worked the best for me. The shots were pretty consistant and straight. The .684 setting was also pretty good in that it had a relatively tight grouping, but the shots all hooked to the right for some reason. The .692 setting was not horrible, but had the largest grouping and most shots that missed that target. In doing this test I found that paint to barrel match was important. While the results were not that far apart, the medium bore setting (.688) was the most accurate. Also, in no way did I mean for this post to put down Hell's Orracle. I merely set out to find whether he was right or wrong. According to my test his statements about paint to barrel match are false. If anyone can prove otherwise, please share your data with me so we can further understand the importance of paint-to-barrel match. Finally, do not take this post as the end all be all answer. Other tests may conclude with different results.
MIDN 2/C, US Navy

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"... I want ENOS making me...."

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 January 2004 at 9:48pm
This is a listing of all tools and supplies you will need to play in the sport of paintball. More specifically, to use a Tippmann gun. Each one is given a ranking out of Five Stars (*****) on its usefulness. I also give you a Yes/No on whether you should bring it to the field or not.

It may seem that I ask to bring a LOT of things to the field, but paintball is almost like the army, and you've seen how much stuff they have to bring with them. Think of your vehicle as your mobile base, loaded with goodies that you or an ally may need. Its not like you actually use that trunk anyway .

Tools

Allen Wrench Set *****
Your Tippmann should have come with one. A set of 4 allen wrenches, each one has a specific use for your gun. The largest is for adjusting your velocity. The next largest is for your hopper elbow. The second smallest will unscrew every bolt holding your receiver halves together. And the smallest takes off the screws holding on your grip. They are Very Important, and its hard to pick out Allen Wrenches of the same size after you lose one.
Bring to Field: Yes

Squegee ****
This little guy will clean your barrel if any paintballs should break in your barrel. I recommend a battle swab. Always keep it with you, as paint in the barrel causes bad accuracy, and paint can work its way into the bolt, which means you have to clean it... again.
Bring to Field: Yes

Q-Tips ****
You know, the deals for cleaning your ears? Well, you can and should use them for cleaning the porting of your barrel, if it has any. Most do. A battle swab, or any other fuzzy squegee will work the same, however.
Bring to Field: Yes

Chronograph ***
It measures the FPS (Feet Per Second) that the paintballs are flying out of your gun. Before playing a game, make sure at least one person has one. Most fields should have one, as well. NEVER have your gun over 300 FPS, it can cause injury. 280-300FPS is best. Not necessary to have a personal one, but very necessary for someone to have one.
Bring to Field: If you have one

Fill Station ***
Fills your CO2, N2 or HPA, depending on what set-up you have. Not necessary to have your own one (although very economical), it really helps when someone has one. CO2 fill stations are simply welding tanks filled with liquid CO2. N2/HPA are SCUBA tanks filled with the corresponding gas.
Bring to Field: If you can

Electric Drill *
Helpful for some mods (such as stock elbow blowback mod), but for the rec player, nah.
Bring to Field: No

Dremel Tool ***
Highly versitile tool, it can cut, it can drill, it can polish. If you stip a bolt, you can cut out a grove to fit in a Flat-Head Screwdriver. You can use the wire brush to remove paint. PM me if you come up with other uses.
Bring to Field: Yes, if only to replace other tools.

Buffer **
Used on the really great 'Polished Internals' mod, but not necessary at all.
Bring to Field: No

Duct Tape ****
Used to fix bad hopper lids, or pretty much anything. I'd recommend bringing a roll, its great stuff, comes in handy. "If you cant duck it, <KRL> it."
Bring to Field: Yes

Loctite Threadlocker ****
A joint compound that seals threads on screws, bolts, and gas lines. Really useful any time you do Gas System work. It also keeps bolts in place that you dont want to come out, and rarely take out yourself, such as the valve bolts. It comes in four varieties: Purple, Blue, Red and Green. Purple is very weak, and you could (maybe) use it to help keep those receiver bolts in, but I think they stay in fine, otherwise useless. Blue is my favorite, strong enough for paintball guns, not too strong, I put it on all gas line threads, valve screw threads, and anything I dont want coming out. Red is VERY strong, it takes a nuke to undo it once it has set, I would only use it if you dont want anything to ever come out. Ive never used green, I dotn even think it bonds to metal. Loctite is applied directly to the threads, then you screw the threads in, and let set for 24 hours. You can find it at most hardware stores.
Bring to Field: No (Takes 24 hours to cure)

Teflon Tape ***
Its a stretchy non-sticky tape used for plumbing. Its easier to install than Loctite. Its great for temporary applications, such as yopu have the wrong size hose, and will replace it soon. Only use it permanently on Low-Pressure Gas Line threads, IF you dont have Loctite. It picks up dirt easily, can get trapped in gas lines and valves, and is unpredictable.
Bring to Field: Yes

Needle-Nose Pliers ***
Great for removing gnarled O-Rings or sometimes, paint shells trapped in the barrel. Really comes in handy.
Bring to Field: Yes

Screwdrivers ***
You know what they are, you might need a set if your marker has normal screws in it instead of allen bolts.
Bring to Field: No

7/16 Wrench ****
Fits the bolts on the ends of Stainless Steel or Macroline fittings and hoses. You'll need it for installing any Gas Line stuff.
Bring to Field: Yes, in case your line breaks.

Crescent Wrench ***
An adjustable wrench. Dont use it in place of a 7/16 wrench, it may loosen and damage the bolts. You will need one for most Gas Line work, such as installing a Vertical Adaptor, or 90 degree fittings.
Bring to Field: Yes, same as above.

Supplies

Paintballs *****
Dur. A stock C 98 will fire just about any paint without fuss, however, cheap balls hurt really badly, stain, and are very inaccurate. As you upgrade and fine-tune your gun, you will need to buy high-grade paint, especially for a Flatline Barrel.   Good paint can often be a better investment than most upgrades.
Bring to Field: Yes, unless you are new and playing against me

O-Rings *****
These are little Rubber or Urethane rings that seal your tank ASA, your Front Bolt, and your Valve. They are very important. Your gun will leak gas, or wear down without them. Lets face it: O-Rings wear out fast. I bent one waaaay out of shape my second game, almost taking me out of it.
I recommend buying a 20 Pack if you are serious about paintball.
Bring to Field: Yes

Burst Disks *****
See the little brass screw near the top of your tank? Under that, is the burst disk. It is a safety device. It will blow if too much pressure builds in your tank. Buy a few, just in case, maybe one of your friends will blow one, and you'll be hero of the day.
Bring to Field: Yes

Extra Tanks *****
You need at least one tank. I'd recommend an extra.
Bring to Field: Yes

Spare Batteries ****
You will need batteries for Electro-Pneumatic guns, Electric Hoppers, Warp Feeds, Tac-Lights, or Mask Fans. In other words, if you have a tricked-out setup, you will need batteries for A LOT of stuff! Some things even use more than one battery. Most things use 9V batteries, and Halo Bs use 6 AA Batteries (Why they didnt use a 9V, I will never know). Bring a spare for every battery in use.
Bring to Field: Yes

Small Soft Cloth or Towel ****
Use to wipe off your mask or gun when shot. Try not to use a part you wiped sweat off with either, it will dirty your lens.
Bring to Field: Yes

Water Spray Bottle ****
Got paint on the mask? You could lick it like a friend of mine does (and then gags), OR you could be smart and spray some water on, and wipe off. Sweaty? No problem! Broken paint sticking inside barrel? Spray it!
Bring to Field: Useless off the field.

Spare Lenses ***
While were at it, sometimes you get shot in the lense, and a crack in it forms, which is waaaayy worse than paint. Not only does it get in the way, but get shot again, and most likely, you're getting a paintball and some plastic in your eyes. Not good. Carry a spare lense, they are that expensive, unless you have a 'Uber Thermal-Reflective-ChurchWindow Lense of L337'.
Bring to Field: Yes

Water and Energy Drinks ****
Booya, baby! Keep going all day!
Bring to Field: Yes

Spare Receiver Bolts ***
Spare bolts to hold your receiver together. If you ever take your gun apart and lose one, it can take you out of a game.
You can get some with some of the spare part kits at County Paintball
Bring to Field: Maybe one

Spare Ball Detent ***
Its the little rubber piece to keep your paintballs from rolling down the barrel, losing it can cause inaccuracy or lost balls. It is a necessary piece, but is very easy to lose. Sometimes you can lose it without even taking your gun apart. It rests under the front bolt, to see it, make sure your saftey is on, and no gas is in the gun, remove the barrel, and draw back the cock. Its the yellow thing.
Once again, County Paintball has them
Bring to Field: Maybe one

Spare Barrel Plug **
Sometimes they break, and become useless because of the difficulty in removing a broken one, but you dont want to go without an important saftey device like this. You can also carry one just in case your Barrel Condom/Sleeve is wet, lost or dirty.
Bring to Field: Useless otherwise.

If you can think of anything else, PM me.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 January 2004 at 1:16pm

Please only go to this site is you have ISDN,Cable,DSL,T1-0C Connections or higher due to packet loss.

 

I recommend sateillite viewers do not go to the link.

---------------------------------------------------

This site will teach you new comers everything you need to know aobut paintball.

 

www.webdogradio.us

 

PS: MODS YOU MAY UNSTICKY THIS IF YOU WANT TOO!

 

If anyone else has anymore useful information not found in the uber thread and such . Please post it here


Some other Video sites.

www.pbvids.com

www.smacktalkpaintball.com

www.forceofnature.com



Edited by PaintballWizard

Paintball Videos.
www.smacktalkpaintball.com
webdogradio.us
www.forceofnature.com
and www.google.com
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 January 2004 at 10:59pm

Written by Large Unit All Credit Goes to his post only. None of this has been edited by me in anyway shape or form!


*Newer Version he asked me to post.*

!!!!!!Choosing a barrel!!!!!!

We are all sick of this question being asked, hopefully with this guide those of you looking for a new barrel won't have to ask the dreaded question.


:::Good Barrels:::

Their are single barrels and Barrel Kits, the barrel kits have different bore sizes and will match to your paint giving you better accuracy, but at a higher price. If you cant choose still just use choose a random one because all the listed are great.

-Barrel Kits-
Evil Pipe
Custom Products 2-piece
Lapco Snapshot
Smart Parts freak
Powerlyte Scepter
Empire 2-piece
St!ff!

-Single Barrels-
Lapco Barrels
Dye barrels
Evil Driver
Smart Parts barrels
J&J Ceramic
Custom Products 1-piece

-The Flatline-
The Tippmann flatline is so unique it deserves its own explanation. The barrel is curved which creates a backspin giving you an advertised 100 feet extra range and a flat trajectory (no other barrel does this!!!) If your into long balling in the woods this is for you.

:::Barrel accuracy factors:::

-Barrel quality-
You want  a barrel that is very smooth on the inside and micro honed so their are no bumps on the inside.

-Paint quality-
Helps just as much as a new barrel, you want perfectly round paint without any dimples.

-Paint to barrel match-
Paint to barrel match means a lot for both accuracy and air efficiency. You want paint that wont roll down your barrel if you drop it in, but that will come out with a blow of your breath.


:::Myths:::

Longer barrels: Despite what you hear from some people, longer barrels do nothing but hurt, 8"-16" are the best lengths and all perform the same.

Rifled barrels: Every year or so a company comes out with a rifled barrel and everyone makes a big deal of it, they do nothing to help and if they did work your paintballs would just curve to the side.

!!!Have fun and good luck!!!


 




<>


 

Edited by PaintballWizard

Paintball Videos.
www.smacktalkpaintball.com
webdogradio.us
www.forceofnature.com
and www.google.com
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 January 2004 at 7:10pm

The mutated/reincarnated forum dictionary:

Uber- good, great, cool, as in "thats the uber(barrel, gun, etc.)"

tool- a not nice thing, an annoying person, or a suck-up, generally an insult

1337- leet, derived from elite, spelled in "1337 text" an internet created artificial language, translations here= http://spins.us/tools/l33t.asp

guested- had their account taken away, they cannot post using it.

IP ban- their IP address has been banned from the tippmann website, they cannot post on the forum with any name, unless they buy a different IP from their service provider

Roxorz (also roxors and Roxcorsz)- good, cool, "thats t(he, eh) roxorz!)

<KRL>- the name of a mod who made his name by cracking down on swearing, this symol/word is often used instead of a curse word.

pwned- used as a spin-off of owned, used when someone has been reprimanded and/or insulted.

Sniper- a pseudo curse word around here, dont say it, it may result in flaming(see next)

flame- an insulting post

n00b (also spelled, newb newbie newbzorz)- One that is new to something. For the forum it is mostlikely a new, un-informed paintballer.

thread- either the end of a barrel where it screws into the marker, or a topic of discussion on this, or other, forums.

sticky- a thread (see above) which has been made so that it stays at the top of a page.

PM- Private Message, a private post to another member

sig - a forumers signature (picture or word appearing in every one of their posts)

avatar- the thingy under your name.

bump- move thread up(by posting).

IMO- in my opinion.

 

PM for any more.

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Not really, but it looks good as a name

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2004 at 5:53pm

So the time has come for your first game? Here is a quick summary of what you need to know/bring.

What to wear?

Mask
- you absolutely need to wear a mask if you play paintball!! Not safety glasses, not sun glasses, a mask made for paintball!

Shirt
- Dress in layers, it all depends on where you live and how cold it is, but I recommend wearing one shirt with a jacket over it.

Loose Fitting Pants
- Trust me on this one, Not only does a pair of loose jeans cause alot of paintballs to bounce off you and not break, but it provides pretty good protection too

Shoes
- You are going to want shoes with a good amount of traction, fields can get really slippery (especially indoor fields). They have shoes made just for paintball which I'm sure work great, but I just wear hiking shoes.

Gloves- I recommend wearing a pair of gloves, they don't have to be made for paintball any pair will work (even though paintball gloves look cooler ), Hand shots hurt pretty bad but with gloves its just like any other hit, also you wont get your hand dirty so if you have to open your gun you wont get oil/dirt in it.

Neck Guard/Cup- Everyone will agree that getting shot in the neck or the *ahem* hurts.. BAD! Using a neck guard or a cup makes it so you wont be keeled over in pain, but at the price of comfort, you don't have to wear these but some would recommend it, its all up to you.

Does it hurt?
This question is asked by many players before their first game so I figure ill clear it up for you all, Most shots don't hurt at all, it just stings for a second or two then goes away, just enough for you too know you got hit really. Sometimes you will get hit from very close or in a certain spot that hurts more than others and those sting worse, but still not to bad.

What to bring
Paintball Marker- unless you plan on throwing the paintballs at them..

Paintballs
- pretty self explanatory if you ask me

O-rings- Be sure to bring at-least 1 spair o-ring, o-rings on your co2 tank break, ALOT, and if you have no way to replace it your out of luck.

Allen Wrenches
- Be sure to bring the Allen wrenches that came with your gun, You will need them to set your velocity to your fields regulations and you will know when you have you take your gun apart.

Q-tips
- You don't have to bring these to the field but they are good for cleaning small areas on your gun or the little holes in your mask if it gets hit.

Duct Tape- Tape can fix anything

Swab/Squeegee
- If a paintball breaks in your barrel your gun will start shooting everywhere but where your aiming, and more will start breaking untill it is cleaned. So be sure to clean it up with a swab or squeegee before you start shooting again.

Spare Clothes
- I don't know about you guys but I'm not allowed back in the car unless I change into clothes that aren't covered in paint.

Barrel Plug- All fields require you put a barrel plug on your gun when your not on the field, your gun should of came with one but if not be sure to buy one before you go play

Paper Towels- You will need these to clean paint/fog off your mask, DO NOT take your mask off to wipe it off on the field!!!! This is how almost all paintball injures are caused!! Go to the safe zone where barrel plugs are required first.

A couple things to know
Wiping your mask- if you get hit in the mask you will need to wipe it off, also if it fogs you will need to wipe it off. I cannot stress enough to wait until you are in the safe zone! If you go to wipe your mask while you are playing there is a chance you will get shot in the face or eye!!

Communicate- when your waiting for the ref to start the game ask your team where they are going, try to plan out what everyone is going to do. If you see an enemy pop out yell out his location, if your held down by enemy fire call for help.. you get the idea.

Barrel Plug- All fields require you put your barrel plug in your barrel when your off the field, make it a habit to keep your barrel plug in when your not playing.

Cover/Moving- You want to be at a bunker at ALL times, if you are out in the open you are a sitting duck, never WALK to a new bunker, run full speed at all times, moving slowly makes you an easy target. Also run low, running low makes you less of a target and any smaller bunkers between you and your opponents may help for a wall.



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 January 2004 at 8:31am
Singing Glorious Victorious HeyOne keg of beer for the four of usGlory be that there are no more of usCause one of us could drink it all alonePass the keg of beer to the rear of the squadron
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 February 2004 at 2:08pm

heres a whole list of things that are useful in speedball. i have alot on this list but if you have anything else you want to add you can just PM me and let me know.

1) In speedball you need speed. without speed your just a slow moving target.

2)Movent

-when you  decide where your going to run to have your teamates give you cover fire and run as fast as you can.

-decide where your going to run to then have your teamates give you cover fire. *have your teamates fire at the people who are the greatest threat to you.  

-once you get to the bunker again check your angles to make sure your safe on all sides of your bunker. if there is someone who has an angle on you and is a threat to you try to either eliminate them or have a team mate eliminate them.

3)Movent

-before you make a move to the bunker take a look at all your angles

-have a teamate cover you while you move

4) Bunkering

bunkering an opposing player.

-Before making a bunkering move tell your teamates that your going to make a bunker move.

-once they understand tell them to give you cover fire. have some of your teamates shoot at other enemies on the field while one or two shoot at the guy your going to bunker. this will hopefully keep his head down so he won't know your coming.

-when they give you cover fire run to the bunker and shoot the guy.

being bunkered

-When your the one being bunkerd the last thing you want to do is stand up behind your bunker and start shooting at the guy charging you. its a better idea to try to find out where he is coming from,wait until he gets almost behind you, then run out from the opposite side  . heres what i mean. lets say the guy is charging from the left wait until he gets almost behind you, then run out from the right side of the bunker and get him from the back. this takes practice and spped but if you practice this with your teamates it will really help. its a good idea to practice both bunkering and getting bunkered 1on1 with your teamates

5) Tactics on moving after the break and Using tapelines to flank

(your behind the dead box...the ref says 10 seconds...3..2...1 go go go!)

-on the break is a good idea to have your back players shoot as fast as they can and shoot as many lanes for you as possible. when the front players are moving up try to get as far as you can which will most likley be the 50 mark.

-Once you get as far as you can try to use the tapelines to move up farther and flank the opposing team. this might take awhile and the going might be slow at first but DONT rush. rushing will only send you back to the dead box.

-once your on the field and the game has started watch your sides and angles at all times. getting tunnel vision is a players death sentence and it will most likley send you back to the dead back saying "i never saw that guy there."

6)Snapshooting amd other tactics on shooting

-snapshooting-popping out of your bunker, shooting a burst quickly then ducking back behind your bunker 

try this with your teamates during practice. if you can master this it will be a huge advantage in tourneys

-shoot in "X"s. what i mean is people on the right side shoot to the left and people on the left side shoot to the right. also if each person covers 2 bunkers you double your effectiveness on the field. 

7)playing bunkers tight

-this is something that you definitly want to work on. you only have to lean out just a little bit to far and POP! shot right in the loader.

-the tighter you play a bunker the harder it is for the other team to hit you. the only problem with playing tight is that the tighter you play a bunker the hard it is to see all angles.

-try to keep your body as much behind the bunker as possible. get your gun and also place that as tight as you can to the bunker.

-when you are shooting from the side of a bunker remember to tilt your loader in so the only thing your opponent has to shot is your barrel and the bottom of your Co2 tank.  Also make sure if you play snake to always have someone cover you. 

8) Communication

before a tourney take a look at the field where you will be playing. with your teamates name the different types of bunkers. heres some examples

small round sup air bunker-piccahou

large sup air triangle-well my team just calls it the triangle

small triangle sup air bunker-dorrito

large cylinder sup air bunker-shotgun barrel

small cylinder sup air bunker- beer can

these are some examples of naming bunkers. there will most likely be more then one of these types of barrels so you need name them by where they are (center, right left) color, and name. so when you on the field you'll probably here something like this...

"enemy behind front center orange beercan"

"enemy behind yellow center dorrito"

"enemy behind left blue piccahou"

you also might want to make names for other things like when your reloading. one example would be something like this "steve im on hangover cover me"

also you should make code names for bunkering - "tim im goin in for the move cover me"

-always know where your teamates are and talk to them at all times. this is EXTREAMLY important.

-you can also you use hand signals. i borrowed these from snake6:

Examples of a few basic signals are :

[Point to yourself]
        I will move /shoot / etc.
[Point to your eyes,(usually index and middle in a 'v')]
        I see
[Point to your ears]
        I hear
[Point to one of your players]
        You will move/shoot etc.
[Thumb Up]
        OK/I understand/Ready/Reloaded etc.
[Thumb Down]
        Down/Bad/Negative
[Hold up a closed fist]
        Stop dead in your tracks and don't move.
[Flat opened hand, palm down, and arm extended at a 45 degree angle above your head, then lowered to the ground]
        Get down, don't move.
[Pat top Of Your Head]
        Head count.
[Raise fist to shoulder, thrust fist up/down above shoulder several times]
        Rush, Increase Speed, Double Time
[Point In Direction]
        Move/shoot/enemy etc. in that direction.
[Make a 'gun' with index finger and thumb]
        Can then be used for shoot in that direction.
[Draw finger across throat]
        Enemy /opposition / the bad guys / danger area.
[Point to person(s), beckon by holding arm horizontally to the front, palm up, and motion toward body]
        Join me, Follow me, Come to me.
[ Extend arm vertically overhead and wave arm and hand to front, left, right, and rear with palm toward direction of each movement]
        Disperse
[Raise fist to ear with thumb and little finger extended]

hope this helps.


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I sold a cocker
I hate the cocker
cockers are garbage don't buy one(get a real high-end not a wannabe)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 February 2004 at 12:31pm
Heres a basic list on how to find, form, and work with a team


1. Skill

Skill will make a difference to many people when forming a team. If you realize you will be the worst player on the team by far, you have two main options. One, if an already formed team wants you, stick with the team and try as hard as you can to learn as much as you can to improve your game. Another choice if you didn't want to be considered the weakest link is to either form your own team or new find a team and or one that is just looking to have fun.


2. Location

Again this is for people trying to get an already formed team some but, it works with someone that may want to start there own team. If you live in Connecticut and the rest team lives in Florida then the team is most likely not for you. Its much easy to go to team meetings and practices if you live close.


3. Starting a Team

If you regularly play with a group of friends and had in mind to create a team, creating a team with your friends may be the way to go. Creating a team is probably the easiest part. Simply choose a name that satisfies everyone and choose a captain. The captain should be the most experienced and the on with most leadership. If you choose to form a team and don't include friends, finding players may be a little difficult. If you become desperate, hanging out at a local field or local paintball store and getting peoples names / phone #'s should work. If your unsure about the skills of your team members on your team, try a couple of practice games at your local field with everyone trying different positions and changing captains to see who performs better. Once you have 5 or 10 members a team name and a captain you are officially a team. Creating a website for your team, take pictures and send them to your local field and local paintball store and spreading word of your team will interest people in coming to check your team out.


4. Practice

To be a team you must feel like a team, practice is key to becoming a good team and will improve skills. Try to practice at least every other week if not every week and have a team meeting about once a month. If you interested in attending a tournament practice will be much more important try to practice for a specific tournament and the skills your team might be lacking. If your playing at a local tournament, if you can, practice at that same field at least a month before the tournament. Before a tournament have a few scrimmages and practice games. If your the captain watch your team take notes on what you need to work on. Some skills to practice are....Shooting left and right from behind a bunker or tree, Shooting while running, Shooting short and far, Learn your distances between you and your opponent/bunker, Sniping, Zig zaging to bunkers, Running - slide behind a bunker, Hand/head/voice signals. Another thing to have and practice is in game communication, knowing where your teammates and your opponents are will help your team work together with less if any problems.

I will update this later I have a few more things to add
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 February 2004 at 9:56pm
< =>

HOW TO TRAIN AND ORGANIZE A TEAM


This was made mainly for the captains of scenario
and woodsball teams, but a lot of it can also aplly to
speedball teams or non-captains.


This was done by me with parts by Darur.  PM me for
additions.


 


practice moving in the woods while shooting at a
distance.  Set up small targets, a soda can, or a
painted stick, and have half of the team lay fire on the
other two, as they try to shoot the target.  Play 1 v 2
games and 2v2 games.  Practice games with only
45 rnd hoppers.  Also, every month or two, have
everyone shoot about 100 rnds on the target
range.  See below for more details on improving accuacy at the target range.


Play a couple games with your team.  Observe the
other players and see their strengths and
weaknesses.  Base your practices mainly on the
weaknesses, but continue to hone the strengths. 
For example, if all of your teammates are excellent
sharpshooters, but stick out like a sore thumb. 
Mainly practice on the art of stealth, concealed
shooting, etc.. but always keep practicing the
accuracy.  If you stop practicing any area, then it will
gradually worsen and you have to invest more paint,
time, effeort into rebuilding the skill.


After a couple of practices, start assigning roles to
your teammates.  Roles such as back sharpshooter,
mid supportman, and front assaulter are vital
elements to a team, but a recon team, major
ball/gas hauler, and stealthly members to sneak
behind the main line are very useful during long
games and scenarios.

This a list of roles, and the types of people who should play them.

Main Roles

Back Man: This is the player who stays slightly behind the "front line", and provides cover, and sharpshoots.  He should have great accuracy at a range,125+ ft.  He should be skilled at remaining concealed, but not neccesarily moving long distances.  A flatline barrel is very useful for this position, due to the increase in range.

Middle Man: This player stays between the front and back men, picking of the other team and recieving the bulk of the other team's fire.  This man should have good accuracy at around 100 ft, be skilled in concealement, and concealed movement, and cannot be afraid of enemy fire.  Any accurate barrel is a good choice for the mid man.

Front man: This is the player who sneaks up on the other team, picking them off and then hiding.  He is the spy like player of paintball.
He also has many different specializations, posted below.  The "average" front man sneaks up very close to the other team, and waits patiently for the right oppurtunity for a one shot mark.  He must be deadly accurate at around 75 feet and below.  He usually won't have to shoot any further, but in case is is spotted, he will need decent accuracy at distances.  He needs to be a master in the art of stealth, being able to sneak up within under 50 feet of the other team's players without being noticed.  He should have a quiet barrel, that can shoot very accurately.  At the very least, he needs to be in full camo, and at least black mask and gun that aren't shiney.  Camo painted guns and mask, and ghili are very useful for the front man.

Special Roles

Captain: This is leader of a squad.  He tells his squad what to do.  It doesn't matter what other role he plays, as long as he can communicate with his squad.  A team can usually have enough players for 2 squads or 3 or players each. Each captain should be experienced in whatever type of game they are playing, and have good leadershipship qualities.  The must remain calm during hard sections, and figure out ways to solve problems.  It can be useful for the captain to have radio communications to other captains and recon teams. 

Hauler: This is the mule of paintball, usually a guy who hangs in the back, who brings up extra paint and air to the other guys.  He should play like a merge between mid and back players, but be able to move across the feild, to bring supplies to his team mates.  He should be used during scenario games mostly, where paint and air can become scarse.  He needs a big harness of backpack to carry pods and air tanks.  He should also be strong enough to carry it all without being to burdened.

Runner: This guy is used almost exclusively in capture the flag games, he is the guy who can run to the other teams flag, gewt it, and return it to your flag station.  He must be lighning fast with all his gear.  Every day he should go out with his gear,  maybe not his gun because that would look weird, and run a mile or so.  He should carry a pistol, and have a holster to put when he breaks for the flag.  He should be in camo, but as light camo as you can get.  If your not playing ini heavy woods, camo jerseys are good because they are very light, but can rip if caught opn a branch. 

Special Forces:  A small team of about 3 members comprising of great sharpshooters and stealth experts.  These are the guys that sneak behind enemy lines to get the thing you need to complete a scenario mission, and return, without being noticed.  They need to be able to cause confusion, by elimating enemies while remaining concealed.  They NEED to use hand signals, and ghili is extremely useful.  They should have good, accurate guns, and be very good sharpshhoters.   45 rnd hoppers are useful as they make for much smaller targets.  During the game, they can play as recon, or front men, but when they are needed, should be able to get the job done with good efficiency.

Recon: Very important during some scenario games, recon sneaks behing ernemy lines, and reports back with troop locations, and anything else pertaining to the current mission.  He needs to be the supreme stealth master, able to get in extremely close to the enemy.  If hes lucky, he can even pick up the other team talking about their future moves.  He should have ghili, gun cover, and mask cover.  He should be equipped with radio communication to the team captains, so he can report to them without having to risk the return journey back.  Also, he should learn one hand signal, so if your team spots him, you can be sure hes on your team, nmot the other ream's recon.

If you find your team ever wishing "Man, if we just had someone to,"[insert a task],"then we could win every game!", then train a team member to do this!  Just about anything is possible to accomplish in paint ball.  With a bit of skill, a man can get within 10 ft of another player without them noticing.

Movement should be confined to three Modes :
Slow but safe, Middle, Fast and powerful.  Decide a
movment pattern to fit the screnario and make sure
your team knows it.


Communication : Code words should be
assigned in case you need to yell, or if you are using
radios and so is the other team.  The basic words 
that can be  used are : Alpha - Main Assault or Key
Group ; Bravo - Secondary Assault or Support group ;
Charlie - recon ; Delta - Base defense or Group
Cover Unit ; Kilo - Package delivery group to Front
Line (i.e Ammo, Air etc.) ; November - Unknown
Target/Boogy ; Papa - Package delivery unit from the
front lines (i.e flag, player w/ broken gear ; Omega -
Unbeatable sitiation/death trap ; Juggernaut -
Unstoppible opponent group ; Tango - Encounter
with enemy.

Besides using the key words, communication through hand signals is very important for stealth.  Have signals such as a thumb up meaning that the coast is clear, moving you hand forward with a fist meaning charge, moving your hand forward with your palm open meaning to move forward and hold your fire.  Experiment with different hand signals.  Hand signals aren't required for everything you need to say, just basic messages so that you don't blow your cover.

Radio communication can be helpful for large scenario teams.  If you do decide to get this, you only need one or two people per squad to have it, not everyone.  It can help a lot by allowing communication between a stealth unit ahead of the line, to the front line fighters.

If anyone here has read Ender's Game by Orson
Scott Card, do what they did in the book.  Divide your
team into groups half, then have two commanders in
each squad.  This allows you to have either two large
squads or four smaller ones, each with a capable
commander.  Then for specific scenario missions,
have members from both squads create a
"ultra-squad" for specific hard missions.  Read the
book.  If you do this, radio communicatin is very
useful, especially beetween commanders.  Also,
utilize hand signals in case radio goes bad, don't
have radio, or just for communication with your
squad.  The squad leaders don't h ave to be the best
players, but they need to be good strategist able
to run a unit alone, or take orders from their
superior.  A team like this will take a multiple months
to train and organize, but will definately be a force to
recon with.

Drills

Accuracy
Set up a target range with targets at 50, 75, 100, and
125 ft away. The targets should be about the size of
a small coke bottle or a can. If you are new, you can
start with 2 liter bottles. First, just practice shooting
each target 5 times in a row just taking one shot,
then seeing if you hit, taking another, etc... Then try
to hit each target 10 times in a row. After you have
mastered hitting each target, Start to ry to hit the 50ft
target, then the 75 ft target then the 100 ft target, the
125ft target and back again. Practice this until you
can do it with minimal paint used.
Next practice hitting the targets while in different
positions. Standing, leaning, crouching, lying, etc.
Try to hit targets while walking left to right. After you
can walk in that direcection, try running while
shooting the targets. After you are decent at running
and shooting left to right, practice right to left.
After your team does these drills with you, there
accuray will improve.

Stealth

Stealth can be summed up as : Silence
Teamwork Eyes and Ears
Agression Listening Tactics
Heart(guts). 

During a normal game, have one player on one team be "the sneaker", and without informing the other team, have him try and sneak up past the enemy lines.  Observe how far he got, if he tagged another player, and how he handled nearby enemies.  In the best situation, he should have gotten completely past the other team, and had an easy time picking them off with the accuacy skills learned above.  Obviously, the first many times, he won't make it all the weay, as he is probably inexperienced in this.  Just as in accuacy, practice makes (near) perfect.  This drill not only teaches stealth, but also conservation of ammo (for the sneaker), and detected enemy infiltraters. 

Also, to teach your team only to take shots that they know that they can make, play 2v2 with ten rnd tubes.  Give each person 2 or 3 tubes.  It makes the game much more tactical.  You can even give one team ten rnd tubes, and the other full hoppers, to teach the importance of tactics, and that firepower doesn't make a winning team.

Always remember to start a game with hopper and pods filled tightly to minimize rattling.  Try and keep your gun steady after you have shot a bit to keep the noise level to a minimum.  Being quiet is nearly as important as staying hidden.

Speedball

Warmups

First, before any playing, stretch!  Strech your arms and legs.  Then run a few laps around the field.  Before a game, take a tour around the field that you will be playing on.  Note key bunkers, and determine your first few moves.  Get an advantage before the game even starts!

Drills

Accuracy

Do the same thing as I posted above, but practice shooting multiple targets at a high rate of fire.  Practice shooting targets in 3 round bursts, and while leaning.  Practice laying down paint on a target while moving.  If possible, have a buddy run, and have someone else try to shoot him.  Remember, similarly to playing in the woods, you may only get 3 shots before you need to take cover, so make them count!

Snapshooting

Put two players on bunkers facing eachother.  Have them try to shoot eachother.  They can't leave the bunker.  They can only lean out for about 2 seconds.  Do this drill a lot, it helps.

Lane Shooting

This is when you lay down paint to prevent another player from reaching a specific point.  Very useful on the breaks.  Have the back men and mid men lay down paint on either side of where the other team starts.  After a couple times just standing, practice it while moving towards a bunker.

The Break

This is where the game starts.  Your team can get a great advantage during it if they play smart.  If your a front man, get to where you want to go.FAST!  That is your job in the beggining of the game.  Mid and back men should be laying down paint and lane shooting.  The mid men should be going at a brisk jog towards there bunker, and the back men at a walking speed.

~Bob


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 February 2004 at 12:19pm

^Not good post that has nothing to do with anything! <You are correct, so I have deleted it> <KRL>

The purpose of this sticky is to completely inform people about anything they may not know about Camouflage. I contacted several mods, and did several searches to be sure I could go ahead with this. The Mods said I should post this in New Players and Ideas.

The Art of Camouflage and Paintball in General
Although used by the Military for over a hundred years, camouflage is something still catching on for many paintballers and fields. Its is really only useful in woodsball and scenario games, yet also essential. Its not just to give the game a military-sim feel. If only one person on the field has sufficient camouflage, he will have a severe adavantage. If all but one of the player have camouflage, he will have almost no chance. The rule is: Have it, or lose.

Camoflauge is a crude, and the only method of blending in with surroundings, and distorting the human figure, which the human mind has the instinctial reaction of noticing. You can never have too much camoflague.

Camouflage does not make you invisible. It only helps, and if you move slowly, and use proper cover, it works best.

Camouflage Clothing- BDU's
B.D.U. is an acronym for Battle Dress Uniform. Used by the military, since the beginning of its camo use, it is a Two-Piece (Pants and Jacket) uniform, dyed in colors and patterns in an attempt to blend in. It works very well. You must try to match the BDU with your surroundings. This is the cheapest and most common method of camouflaging yourself, although not perfect.

They come in the fabrics: Rip-Stop cotton, not as durable, and hard to clean, but cheap. Poly-Cotton Twill, most common, and durable, what the army uses. SWAT Cloth, my favorite, very breathable, feels like Khakis, but arent. They are more expensive, too.

Snake6 says, about the materials the army uses and their Winter/Summer use:
Winter Wieght:50/50 Poly-Cotton Twill.

A heavy fabric, designed for use to break wind, insulate even while wet(this is due to the blend of polyester.) and is a warmer fabric all around, also more durable than ripstop. The disadvantage is that if the tempeture is above 70* F you will sweat like a dog.

Summer Wieght: Ripstop 80/20 Polyester/cotton

A light wieght breathable fabric designed to be used during the summer months and in the dessert, temps above 70*F. this is also designed to be used underneath the M-65 Goretex Field Trousers, and the ECWS gear system. the ability of this fabric to breathe is its greatest streangth. The disadvantages are, becuase to its breathing ability this fabric has been known to be very cold apon leaving the water due to the high cotton blend which does not isulate while wet. and is not recomemeded to wet invirments. also this will not fuction correctly under 70*F due to the fact that there is no insulting factor involved unlike the winter wieght fabric. also because this fabric is so light wieght it does not withstand the wear and tear like 50/50 blend fabric.


You can buy units at-
OpsGear Altough a bit expensive, Opsgear sells NEW units, in most sizes, in all three types of fabric and in most patterns. $30-$35 a piece (Pants and Jacket).
Cheaper Than Dirt is a military and police surplus resaler. You can get Used, New (Surplus), and Irregular (has defects, but is VERY cheap). So here, you can get most everything from $20 for the whole unit, to $30 per piece.
Ranger Joe's Preforms similar to Cheaper Than Dirt, this is a good place to go to if you are having bad luck with the other sites.
There are many other places to purchase BDU's at, if you find a really good one, let me know.

Note: You can also purchase Jumpsuits and Ponchos in most patterns.

Camouflage Clothing- Patterns
The integral part of camo clothing is the pattern. I will introduce you to many useful patterns and their best times and areas of use. You want to avoid bright and dark colors as much as possible. Even Black. Black does not show up in many places in nature, and subconsciously attracts unwanted attention.
Even at night, avoid black, because your camo, if it matches it at day, it will darken with the area, and match it at night too.

Woodland

Useful in the widest range of conditions, areas and seasons. It is the absolutely the first pattern you should buy, as you will get the most use of it. Best in Temperate, Forest and Jungle regions, in all seasons but Winter.

Tiger Stripe

Slightly less effective than Woodland, this is best used in Fall, where more trees are visible, or densely wooded areas.

3-Color Desert

Best used in all desert regions. Of course.

6-Color Chocolate Chip Desert

Rocky desert regions, try to stay low. Rocks do not stand 5 feet off the ground.

Urban Camo

Comes in many patterns and colors, best used in scenario games, involving lots of buildings, and concrete. The lightly-colored ones also somewhat work in the winter, with snow on the ground.

Arctic
(No picture, if you know of one, tell me)
Probably one of the best working camo patterns. In snow, you blend in almost perfectly, because of the few colors needed. The brightness of light hitting the snow doesnt help people see you, either. Also difficult to find and purchase.

Alpenflage, or Swiss Camo
(no picture, again sorry. Available in Cheaper than Dirt catalogs)
Uses splotches of odd colors of Red, Green, White, Black, etc. It is the ultimate in Fall Camo.

Digital Camo

The Newest, from the Marines. As of this writing, all of it you can buy, is fake, but works as well. It uses pixellized colors to trick the brain into seeing what it wants to see-- trees and plants. Effective. Comes in Woodland, Urban, and Desert.

Superflage, or Hunter's Camo

Works extremely well during hunting seasons, in hunting areas. Uses actual pictures of leaves, trees, etc. But it also has the smallest time and area of effectiveness.


The Ultimate, Ghillie Suits
Ghillies are designed to detroy the human frame, while blending colors. It is extremely effective. It is actually taking foiliage, and attaching it to netting on your body. You can buy some, from Bushrag, or make your own. It is best to make your own, to ensure it matches your environment totally. The Ghillie does not make you invisible, but I have heard horror stories of soldiers being stepped on, while wearing their suit.
This is the absolute best guide for making your own Ghillie Suit.

Camo-ing your gun
Is your silver bullet signalling aircraft? Is your chromed-out custom, causing people to point and laugh when you are "Sneaking".
Both OpsGear and KP Customs both offer services to paint your gun camo-patterns. The more of your gun that is covered, the better.

Your Paintball Mask
Your mask is a crutch to camouflaging attempts. First off, try to purchase non-reflective lenses to dampen the gleam off your lens. That is the most common way of finding someone on a sunny day.
Goggle Skinz is an interesting way of doing it. From the outside, they see non-reflective camo fabric. But from inside, its transparent. Ive yet to see how well you can see out of it. I also have heard horror stories of paintballs hitting the skinz, and ruining them.
You can also have your mask painted in camo patterns.

No camo is effective if you are not moving slowly, and using cover. Stay low, stay far away, and stay quiet.

Disclaimer- I wrote this, you cannot use this without my written consent. Copyright 2004. 



Edited by KRL15
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nachos18 View Drop Down
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Strike 1 - Selling trash

Joined: 04 October 2003
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2004 at 10:37am
NACHO'S FORUM INSTRUCTIONS


New Post

This button is used to start up a new post. You can start a new post in the following sections:

New Player Forum
Upgrades and Customizing
Gun Manteinance and Repair
Marker Gallery
Which gun is best?
Thoughts and Opinions
Upcoming Events
Paintball Ideas

There are 2 other sections in the forum. One of this is Tippmann Regulars, in which you must be a gold Member, to post in, and the other is Tippmann Techincal Info., in which i think, only moderators can post in.

Post Options- Inside the Post

Once you start a new post you can choose several things to add to it.

Sticky Topic or Normal Topic: A sticky topic is a post that will stay at the top of the forum section (ex:New Player Forum). It is only to be used with informative posts, that deserve to stay there. If you unsticky something like a question, your post will be unstickied by a moderator in no time.

Font:You can choose from Arial, Courier New, Times New Roman or Verdana to use as your font.

Size: You can choose different sizes for your font
1 2 34 5 6

Color: You can choose the color of your font. The following colors are available:
Black Blue Red Green Yellow Orange Brown Magenta Cyan Lime Green

**To use the Font, Size and Color options you must choose one from the window with its name, and then write the text in the box that will appear.**

Sub-Buttons for a New Post and New Poll 

  Bold: This button is used to make your font BOLD. You just click it, and type what you want in bold letters. 

 Italic: This is the same as the bold button. You just click, it and type what you want in ITALIC 

 Underline: Again, same as before, click, write,voila!!! UNDERLINED TEXT 

 Hyperlink: This button is used to insert a link to a web page into your post. To use it you first click on it. Then you write what you would like the people to click on in the post. ex: Click Me. After you have written this you will have to write the web page you want the link to take you to. ex: www.tippmann.com/home
You will get something like this if you got it right:
Tippmann



 Center: This is just to center text. It acts the same way as the bold and underline buttons.
Center


  List: To use this feature, first you click on it. Then you either write 1 to have a numbered list or leave it blank to have a bullet list. After you have chosen that, you just start writing the list in the box that will appear.
  1. TIPP
  2. MANN
  3. ...

  • TIPP
  • MANN
  • ...


 Indent: This is practically a useless button. It is used to indent a paragrapgh, but you can do that yourself with the space bar. 

 Image: Finally the last and hardest button to use when posting, the image button. To use this button you must follow this stps closely.
First of all select the picture you want, lets say i want the tippmann banner. Second you must right click on the image, and go to where it says properties. Once you are in there, copy the url of the picture, lets say the url of the banner is http://www.paintballhq.com/tippmann_barrels.gif. Now that you have that you must click on the image button, and paste the URL in there. After you have done this, you can preview your image at Preview Post.
                                                                                                                                                  


Mode: I havent found the used for it. You can select from either Prompt or Basic, if anyone finds it please PM me.

Emoticons: This animated faces can be added to your post to spice it up. You can choose from about 30 of the, for your post. All you have to do is click on them or paste there forum code to place one in your post.


Update Post: Its like a confirmation button. If you click it, everything you have changed will be added to the post.

Preview Post: It is used to preview the post, before updating it. You can check if your links and images are working so you can change them before updating.

Post Options-Outside the post

This are some options that are available outside of the editing area of posts. 

 Quote: This is used to quote someones post. You just click the Quote button on top of his/her post, and automatically you will be sent to a posting space with his quote already typed in.

Originally posted by nachos18 nachos18 wrote:

i havent finished it yet
 

 Profile: This will open up the profile of any of the forum members. The profile contains information such as his Name, Location, Age, Number of Posts, and Date he joined the forum 


 PM: This button lets you send a private message to any of the forum members. You just have to click it from below that presons post, or go to your private messenger and choose someone from your body list. Once you have chosen the person you just have to write the message the same way you would write a post. 

 Buddy: This button is used to add a buddy to your buddy list. You have to fill in the following things:
Member Name:ItsJustMe
Description:Im not sure what to put here, i guess its a descri´ption of the buddy.
Then you just click add buddy, and youll have him/her in your buddy list.
This list will show you which of your buddies is online. You can delete and add buddies from this list anytime you want to.

**ItsJustMe, i used you as example since you were the first one to reply to this post** 

 Edit: This button can only be used in your posts. It is used to change any post post you have made in the forum. All the options stated at the begining of my post can be used to edit a post. 

 Delete: This button is used to delete a post or a reply. In both cases, you will not be able to delete the post if someone has already replied to it.

-thanks to Snake6 for this one- 

Reply:This button is used to reply a topic. You just click it and write. As i already mentioned in the Tippmann Regulars and the Techincl Info Forums you cant reply posts, so this button will not appear. Also if you dont want to use the button, you can just scroll down to the end of the page, and a blank space for writing, exactly the same space you use when starting a topic, will appear for you to reply. 


 New Poll


This button is used to start a new poll in one of the sections of the forum. It is really similar to the New Topic Button, though in this one, you have the ability to make a poll.

To make the poll you will have to fill in the following spaces:

Subject: Gas

Poll Question: Which is better?

Poll Choice 1: c02

Poll Choice 2: Hpa

Poll choices go on until #5, though only 1 and 2 are mandatory.

Once you have this you must decide 2 things:

Allow multiple votes in this Poll- People can vote all the times they want

Make Poll Only (no reply)- Forum members are permitted to vote in the poll, but not to reply.

WARNING

ONCE YOU POST A POLL YOU WONT BE ABLE TO EDIT IT


General Forum Buttons 

Active Topics:By clicking on this button you will be automatically sent to a new page. This new page contains every topic, from all the forums, that in the last minutes has been replied or posted. You can also change this time into numbers like 15 minutes, 30 minutes, or even yesterday or last month. This will enable you to see all active posts 15 minutes ago. 

 Memberlist:A complete forum member list. It contains the profile of all 18,265 members. You can organize this list alphabetically, by # of posts, new forum members first, old forum members first, by group, and by number of stars. 

Search: The search button is probbably one of the most important buttons in the forum. It can be used to find any post ever made by a member. To do a search first you must decide if you are gonna search posts made by an specific member, posts with an specific topic,or posts that contain specific words in their conetent. Then you must decide whihc forum to search in. You can search in a single forum, like Marker Gallery, or in all forums. Finnally you just have to decide how do you want your results to be sorted out, by last post time, topic start date, alphabetically, or by number of views. 

Help: Next to the search button, we find the help button. By clicking on this button you will be able to find an roganized list of problems you may encounter in the forum and questions you may have about something. 

 Private Messenger: The private messenger is an exact replica of an email. Below are some buttons you may encounter when using it. 

     Inbox: The inbox is where all private messages sent to you by other members arrive. They are organized by date, and you can only have a total of 40. You can delete any message by clicking on the square on its right and then clikcing delete. 
     Outbox: This is kind of the opposite of the inbox. In here, all the messages you have sent to another member are stored. 
     Buddy List: The buddy list as i had already explained, is a list of all your forum buddies. This list will show you which of your buddies are online and offline.In the buddy list you can also block a person, and stop him/her from sending you private messages. 
     New Message:This is basically the same as New Topic, and New Poll. You just click it, write the message, and send it. 

Settings: The sttings button is used to change all of your specific forum settings. It is divided into 7 sub-settings.

Edit Profile: Here you can change your username, password, and profile. You can also change your avatar* and your signature*. You can also turn features like an automatic login, and rich text enabled posts on or off.

   *Avatar*:The avatar is a small drawing, or picture that goes below your username in your posts. You can either select one from the list provided by Tippmann, or you can get one from the internet. To place one from the web you just need to copy the pictures URL, or adress, and paste it in the space provided.

   *Signature*:The signature is a small space at the bottom of each post to close it. A signature can have words, pictures, and even animations. To insert a picture in your signature first copy the URL of the picture (i mentioned it earlier in image posting) and paste it in your signature. Now that you have the URL you should have something like this:

http://tippmann.com/interface/image/logo.gif

Now, after the letters GIFyou must write the following forum code [/IMG]. Now you should have this:

http://tippmann.com/interface/image/logo.gif[/IMG]

Now, before the letters http you must write the same forum code, but without the slash(/),[IMG.]

If you wrote both codes write you must have ended with this:

                                         & nbsp;

Registration Details: Here you can change your username, password, and email adress. You can also do this at Edit Profile, so no need to use this setting.

Profile Information: Again, no need to use this button since you can also change your profile in Edit Profile.

Forum Preferences: Enable Rich Text post editing, automatic log in here. You can also change your time setings and enable people to see your email.

Private Messenger: Same as clicking the PM button.

Buddy List: The buddy list, same one as the one of your PM.

Forum Help: Same as clicking the Help button. 

 Logout: This button is just a logout button. You just click it and you will be disconected of the forum.

Mixing Forum Codes

Now that you know how to use all the buttons in the forum you can start mixing forum codes. There are a lot of combinations you can make, like:

NACHOS


That is a bold, italic, underlined link.

GOOD-BYE


Edited by Reb Cpl

FREE RELOADER Bs AND OTER STUFF!
GO HERE FOR MORE INFO

YOU CAN ALSO IM ME FOR INFO (ignaciocubero)
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