OPBN’s PB Ebolt Build Question Thread

TinMan wrote: Mini toggle inline in the battery harness, though not needed. Yeah, I think I am scrapping the switch. More trouble than its worth. Go to the AKA website, they have collars that go between the tank and ASA for testing pressure, put your LPR where the gauge would go. I'll have to look into this. I was thinking of going with a Palmers with female ASA inputs and mounting the LPR to the side of it. It looks like this is something that has been done. The cyclone on my LP kitted, ebolted X7 would not work at 310 psi, and my 98 runs at the same psi, and that's with every combination of piston housings and mods. Hmm. That brings up a challenge as I really wanted to use the Cyclone. Did you upgrade to the larger air lines? This concerns me because they make an LPK for the A-5.. if it doesnt cycle the cyclone......? Use the LP kit valve. It has deeper flutes and a larger valve cup seat for improved flow at low pressure. I found out that the spring inside the PB Ebolt is the same spring. I think I am just going to mod the valve body. Reason is, I am wanting to mod the 98 and use an A5 LPK. I have tons of ebolt stuff, let me know if you get stuck for something   Hmmm. I may take you up on that. (I know I said I wouldn't answer questions) Not by me. I appreciate your help.

I went to the AKA site and not sure what you were trying to lead me to, but I did find  this:  http://akalmp.com/misc.html that may work for an ASA on/off. It would allow me to mount an LPR on one side and a stab on the opposite side. However, I am still torn as what to do regarding the LPK. I REALLY wanted to use the Cylcone so I didnt have to invest in an electric hopper. And if I dont get the LPK, I might as well just put the stab where the volume chamber would have been.... Hmmmm.

Edited by oldpbnoob - 09 January 2009 at 10:04am

The Dye membrane is too complicated. I only need something that will turn it on/off. Thanks though.

Sure. I checked the marker that I was thinking of and it was using a dye membrane pad and there were several wires coming out of it. Don't think that is what I need. I looked through a catalog and not seeing it. If I am not mistaken, it needs to be a SPST On/off, 12v, but not sure of the Amperage. I havent found anything in a membrane switch though. Perhaps you will have better luck.

Its beginning to look like more trouble than its worth. If it isnt draining the batteries, may not such an urgent need.

I am actually capable of doing the work, more wondering if anyone would know which model would work. I know Digikey and Newark both carry membrane switches, but I am not knowledgeable enough about the voltage etc to know which one would actually work with the electronics.

notom66866 wrote: Yes they are alway hot.                 and I can't believe that oldpbnoob just said shiznit!

Would you prefer the fashizzle?

Edited by oldpbnoob - 07 January 2009 at 1:01pm

Ok, so I know that another member is currently flooding the forums with Ebolt que4stions, but I have some of my own. I just got a Psycho Ballistics Ebolt for a pretty good deal (old mask I got in a trade + cash) and am ready to install on an old M98 that I have had for the past year or so as a back up. I have searched threads on different things and still had some questions.

To start, I plan on trying to keep this relatively simple. 13bps is fine for me and I don't need to add eyes or anything that complicated. Here are my questions and I will update and try to keep in the same thread if I come across others. I appreciate any help that can be offered.

1. I have the ebolt with the two 1/2 size AAA batteries that fit into the handle. I have watched the video and didnt catch a part of any on/off switch. I am assuming than like the older Egrip that this thing is always hot? Does this kill the batteries? If so, is there a reasonable way to put an on/off switch? I would prefer something like a touch membrane that can fit into the back of the handle. I have seen this done, but will it work with this or will I need a different battery source? Expense-wise, what are we looking at?

2. Are LPK's really the shiznit for this setup? I have seen both positive and negative on it and it is still kinda fuzzy. They are becoming harder to find and $$$. Unless it vastly increases consistency, efficiency, quietness or some other factor, I really don't want to drop the coin on it if I dont have to. If it does truly help and I cannot find a GTA one, is there an alternative for making it? Truthfully, I would love to have one with a straight VA anyways so I could mill the front grip off of the marker and mod a true vertical mount. If I did the LPK, I would most likely use a Palmers regulator with a side in and exit through the top mounted to on the side of the ASA.

3. I would like to use an ASA with an on/off, but since I am thinking of putting the Palmers regulator directly on the side of the ASA is there any way to do this? I have also seen set ups where a Palmers with a female input was used and the LPR mounted on the side. The only option I see is for a female with an outlet for input into the marker and one for a gauge. Does it change the performance of the regulator to have the LPR running off of it?

4. Is there any reason a Cyclone could not be used with an ebolt and LPK? I have several spare powertubes with the RT/cyclone outlet on them and it seems all I would have to do is drill a hole in the receiver. What potential issues could there be? Would tuning be a beast?

5. If I do decide to use an LPK, am I supposed to use the valve that was supplied with the LPK or the one that came with the E-bolt?

I will probably come up with some other questions as I mull it over, so I may be bumping this thread as I edit. Again, thanks for any knowledge you guys can provide. 

 Edited question 3 again. Added question 5.

 

Edited by oldpbnoob - 08 January 2009 at 10:35am