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pro-lite

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tallen702 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 November 2007 at 2:12pm
The valve stop in the picture is REALLY important. Don't loose it. It's the only thing that keeps the valve from battering the push-bar on the power tube to pieces.

Otherwise, learning about a pro-lite is about as easy as taking it apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snake6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 November 2007 at 2:09pm
Shub, thanks. For some reason my link didn't work.
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Shub View Drop Down
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I donít have one either. Is that good???

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shub Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 November 2007 at 1:29pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkinnett1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 October 2007 at 8:35pm
Thanks, that helps a lot.  I've got 2 A5's, an X7, 2 98's and 2 ION's.  I have always done all my own work on them whether I knew how or not.  I guess I just need to sit down and start messin around with this as well.  I've alwys been the type (even as a kid) to take things apart, just to see how they work.  This is gonna be the same situation, I just wanted a little info on it first, and you helped tremendously.  Thank you.

Edited by mkinnett1 - 31 October 2007 at 8:35pm
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tallen702 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 October 2007 at 11:38pm
Hehehehhe, this might take me a while to write.


Pro-Lites were the second generation of the pro-series markers which started with the Pro-Am and finished with the Pro-Carbine. Their name came from the fact that they were basically the pro-am marker in a "lite" body design, meaning a composite plastic fore-grip and gas-through rear-grip. The marker is built of 3 main component pieces. The Lower-Receiver (Plastic gas-through grip frame) the milled aluminum Upper-Receiver (main body) and the integrated elbow and Fore-Grip (plastic fore grip). The lower-receiver houses the proprietary ASA with wire-wrapped macro-line which forms the trigger-guard as it exits the grip and enters the valve of the marker. It also houses the trigger, safety, sear, sling swivel, sear spring, trigger spring, and corresponding dowel pins. The Fore-Grip consists of the grip itself, integrated feed elbow, hopper-locking "teeth" with retention bolt, and sling swivel. The Upper Receiver houses the end-cap, guide rod, drive spring, hammer, charging handle, valve assembly, power-tube, velocity adjustment screw, valve retention block, bolt, linkage rod, ball detent, and the linage rod retention block (also functions as the rear-site aperture) which mounts on the integrated dove-tail rail on the upper-receiver.

The way the marker works is that the trigger causes the sear to release the hammer which falls forward and strikes the valve. Now, unlike most open-bolt blow-back markers, the hammer striking the valve causes the valve to move forward where it's forward pin forces the front valve seal to open as it presses against the power-tube. This releases the air forward in the marker which propels the ball down the barrel. Meanwhile, when the floating valve achieves a full stop in this forward position, the hammer finally achieves the goal of opening the rear valve seal which blows air backward against the hammer which pushes it backward and up on the sear again. The front valve-pin then pushes the floating valve backward allowing the valve to again seal, readying it for the next shot.

The whole system is ingenious and works well in ALL weather. Sure, you'll get a hot shot or two and TONS of snow/smoke in the cold, but the valve was made to run off of higher input pressures. HPA does NOT work well on un-modified pro-lites. CO2, even siphoned CO2, however, does work very well. If you insist on running the Pro-Lite on HPA, a 1,000psi output tank is suggested to ensure that the marker properly cycles. Nitro-Duck's iReg system is one of the few that will let you achieve this.

If you have any more questions, let me know.

Oh, and the pro-lite shares the same threads as the A-5 if you are looking for a new barrel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snake6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 October 2007 at 9:39pm
Well here is a diagram. I can't find any user manuals anywhere. This is because the marker was discontinued years ago...

It operates basically the same as any other marker Tippmann has produced.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkinnett1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 October 2007 at 9:30pm
Anything you can tell me.  Like how to clean it or whatever or if you could give me a link that would help to.  I searched and couldn't find anything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snake6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 October 2007 at 9:26pm
What do you want to know?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mkinnett1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 October 2007 at 9:03pm
I have recently acquired a pro-lite at a pretty good price (free).  The marker shoots just fine but I am interested to know a little about it.  If anyone could help me with this, it would greatly be appreciated.
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