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the smallest gun in the world .

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RoboCop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 September 2007 at 1:36am
Originally posted by strykerx15 strykerx15 wrote:

what do you mean by asa reg? the reg just ets the air to the valve on a spyder. or a tippmann lpr. that has nothing to do with not needing a stryker 
It would control velocity and not some lame other way of adjusting velocity. The asa/reg would be small and compact as well as multi functional.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote strykerx15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 September 2007 at 1:59pm
ohh . ok . well that wont work on my design cuz it is all in the handel . and thats how the parts move and the velo is under that. 
im not a sniper . im a
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SSOK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 September 2007 at 6:30pm

Delete this thread if you want to keep this a secret.

There is no way that you can make that without having some machinst skills, and probably some airsmithing skills.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote strykerx15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 September 2007 at 1:02am
i come from a family of just that 
im not a sniper . im a
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote strykerx15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 September 2007 at 11:51am
anyway i just design a pump kit to go on to this marker. 
im not a sniper . im a
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frag_68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 September 2007 at 11:59pm

Stryker:

I've looked at your design and read all the replies.  I'm not trying to be critical, but I see one major design flaw.  I could be incorrect, so please correct me if I'm wrong.

Hammer blowback - there doesn't seem to be any mechanism to re-cock the hammer.  Typically, there is a direct linkage between the bolt and the hammer so that the blowback caused by firing air out the barrel will re-cock both.  Your design seems to be relying on pressure through the valve to be sufficient to re-cock the hammer, which I'm pretty sure isn't enough.

Some other things to note are:

- Manufcaturing cost:  Probably the cheapest way is to make the handle valving a seperate tube which is inserted and plumbed at assembly.

- anti-chop:  As mentioned, you have nothing to prevent your paint from chopping.  Most guns are open-bolt blowback, which helps prevent this due to an increased lag time between shots.  The closed-bolt blowback design which you have will cause the bolt to "bounce" back closed and most likely chop paint.  A suggestion may be to make some sort of 'latch' which releases the bolt when there is pressure behind it.  This would convert it to an open-bolt blowback and reduce chopping greatly.

Other than that, I really like your creativity.  Your first step before a patent would be to build a working prototype.  Once you have something that's worth the investment of patenting, then you worry about that part.  Until then, just have fun experimenting with your prototype!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MeanMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2007 at 4:48pm

Originally posted by frag_68 frag_68 wrote:

- anti-chop:  As mentioned, you have nothing to prevent your paint from chopping.  Most guns are open-bolt blowback, which helps prevent this due to an increased lag time between shots.  The closed-bolt blowback design which you have will cause the bolt to "bounce" back closed and most likely chop paint.  A suggestion may be to make some sort of 'latch' which releases the bolt when there is pressure behind it.  This would convert it to an open-bolt blowback and reduce chopping greatly. 

If he wants to use the AutoMag bolt as an example, why not make it like the Lvl 10?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote strykerx15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2007 at 6:04pm
if you knew how a spyder works , frag . you whold knw that the striker is the thing that recocks the gun . te cupseal has a pin on it . and when the striker hits the cup seal . the pin has a groove in it . and the extra air alows for the striker to get pushed back . so the lower tube of a spyder will be placed in the handel of my gun . of cours a smaller scale . and as for the bolt . the bolt has a spring in front . like an automag . the spring is the orange spirel to the front of the bolt . thats what resets  the bolt . but your right . i should make a latch of some sort . and work on a anti chop
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frag_68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2007 at 6:34pm

Stryker:

The "striker" you're referring to is also called the hammer.  I know how a Spyder works, and as stated before am concerned that your design won't [work].  As you'll notice if you disassemble a Sypder, the hammer (striker) is connected to the bolt, recocking it during the blowback of the bolt.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote strykerx15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2007 at 6:40pm
yes i know . if you look closely at my drawing there is a air feeding the bolt from the back of the bolt . it is an orange line . it filles up and pusses the bolt foward and when it hits the release holse it will shoot the marker . 
im not a sniper . im a
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote strykerx15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 September 2007 at 2:30pm
and the bolt if not what blows back its the hammer . so the bolt is entirely diffirent on my marker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blasterboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 September 2007 at 9:25pm
Well I'm not sure how this will work but it sounds like a awesome project even if it won't work.  This is way ahead of other companies and by trial and error you could get it to work. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote an94 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 September 2007 at 2:12am
I would put the noid on the back of the gun itself. It would save some room in the grip. mount the board right under the chamber so you can mount eyes without having to run eye wires. run the noid wires through a small hole in the body so there is no chance of pinching any wires. where does the battery go? Id put it in the front Grip like the Mini.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote strykerx15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 September 2007 at 8:11pm
no eyes. i dont like electronics. im gonna build it with a lvl 10 automag bolt so it wont ever chop . so who needs eyes?
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