Tippmann Pneumatics Inc. Homepage
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

A5 WAS egrip eratic firing

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
Author
dutch_redneck View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 03 June 2006
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 1
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dutch_redneck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: A5 WAS egrip eratic firing
    Posted: 18 March 2007 at 12:14am
I got a new A5 last may and ever since i got it, the WAS egrip has had eratic firing. It works fine in Single shot mode, but if i use, burst, turbo or full auto, the gun will keep firing if i just tap the trigger. The gun will keep firing even with my finger off the trigger until i put it back on the trigger and pull it back. Has any one ever had this problem? Can you lead me in the right direction to fix it? Please help. This is annoying and not all that safe.

Thanks
Dutch Redneck
Back to Top
Black_Shadow View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar
Penguin-abuser from <heck> ...

Joined: 10 December 2002
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 2955
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black_Shadow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 March 2007 at 5:47pm
your board my be setup for a 98c, you need to switch the settings to a5 mode, the polarity must be backwards....
98CP ACT
R/T
J&J Ceramic 14"
Egg II w Z-Board
GTA Inline X-Chamber
NCStar Red-Dot
Pen Spring Mod
Trigger Stops
Polished Internals
Dye Sticky Grip
20oz Co2 w On/Off

Next Up: Spimmy
Back to Top
sammieboi View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 10 June 2007
Status: Offline
Points: 1
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sammieboi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 June 2007 at 3:39am
Have you figured out a solution to your problem? I have the same problem and it seems like a lot of people do but I haven't been able to find a solution yet.
Back to Top
Juette View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 17 August 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 16
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Juette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 June 2007 at 10:42am

I have the same problem, so it has forced me to keep my gun in semi-auto mode.  I think i have my JCS trigger set to be too sensitive.

Back to Top
RoboCop View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar
Aw man, my butt is rusted...

Joined: 06 November 2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 5040
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RoboCop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 June 2007 at 2:22pm
WAS boards have many problems with the e-grip. Either get the stock board or get an Ape board.

SandMan:"oh yeah, sporx is totally hot"
Back to Top
pitbull1100xx View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 June 2007
Status: Offline
Points: 17
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pitbull1100xx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2007 at 3:41am
I've had mine replaced only to have it do the same thing. I've tried several things, but tomorrow I'll find out if my last ditch effort will work,if so I'll explain with pictures.It seems to be the trigger mechanism moving around VERY slightly and vibrating the micro-switch, this is somewhat contrary to what I first thought it was but then again I've been screwing with this thing since I got it. I don't like this thing but I paid for it and bygod it's gonna work!
Back to Top
606DB View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 06 May 2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 2
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 606DB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2007 at 4:15pm
Sorry to say but I'm having the exact problem and I know for a fact that the setting mode is for A-5 so the polarity is fine... No solution found yet...
Back to Top
a5sabre View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 08 July 2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 2
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a5sabre Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 July 2007 at 9:43pm
I sent mine back to Tippmann last week and they sent me what I would guess to be a refurbished replacement and it is having the same issue. I contacted them again before checking this forum to see if they had any answers but after reading this I don't think there will be any. That sucks. It didn't start for a few weeks after getting it but now it does it alot. I've accidentally overshot people when I charge and fire and I feal bad about that so I put it on semi but since I am the Sabre position I need to shoot faster. I might as well save the battery and put the stock grip on if I have to shoot semi.
Finish the Game, Billy
Back to Top
pitbull1100xx View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 June 2007
Status: Offline
Points: 17
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pitbull1100xx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2007 at 12:32am
You would be right in changing back to your stock grip.I too have had my grip replaced and it's junk too. I just wonder what gives, does tippmann just not know whats wrong with these things? Are they refusing to admit there is an issue? I get so sick of hearing about "trigger bounce", I don't know about some of you guy's but that was the first thing I eliminated as an issue with mine,simply because it was an easy thing to fix and I'd rather fix it myself and play than send it out and wait! I've explored every theory I've read about and several I came up with myself and there is just NO fixing these things once the go bad. I've yet to be able to play a full game with this pile, and I have to tell ya I truly hate this thing, is tippmann gonna just let it go on this way?
Back to Top
a5sabre View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 08 July 2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 2
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a5sabre Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2007 at 9:12am
Well I emailed tippmann Sunday when i found out that the E-griop they gave me was also defective and they didn't answer back at all. To tell the truth, I'm a little disappointed that there was no response. I'm kind of at a loss. I feal like they are leaving me high-and-dry and they aren't backing their product very well. I am balking at buying the ape board for it. That's another $68(give or take) that I would throw away if it starts doing the same thing. Anybody know if that board works better?
Finish the Game, Billy
Back to Top
mod98commando View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar

Joined: 10 June 2002
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 4423
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mod98commando Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2007 at 11:59pm
I did some research on the A5 electronic kits since I was looking into buying one and I got the APE board based on everything I saw. If you check www.pbreview.com you can see a lot of reviews, most of which talk about how the APE board is much better. I installed mine last night and I messed around with it a little to get a feel for it. It's pretty simple and therefore easy to use but I noticed that the capacitor and solenoid didn't want to sit all the way in the grooves that were cut for them so I needed to dremel some plastic away to make the grip close. Otherwise, I would have had to crush the parts or leave the grip open a crack to get the thing closed which I was NOT going to do after paying $100+ to go electronic. Cutting a little plastic away solved my problem and now it's all together the way it was meant to be. Aside from that, the board works fine, though it seemed to have a little trouble maintaining full-auto at 25 bps (tested without air on the gun). However, it's unlikely that you'll want to shoot that fast for very long anyway. The solenoid seemed to have trouble tripping the sear at that speed so I put it down to 23 and changed the dwell and it worked fine. At stock settings, it worked flawlessly. Also, if you go to www.tippmannparts.com you can get just the board for about $58 and just solder your current solenoid onto it.
oreomann33: Everybody invades Poland
Rofl_Mao: And everyone eats turkey
Me: But only if they're hungary
Mack: Yeah but hungary people go russian through their food and end up with greece on everyth
Back to Top
pitbull1100xx View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 June 2007
Status: Offline
Points: 17
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pitbull1100xx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 July 2007 at 3:31am

You are correct my friend! I got my APE replacement for that junky w.a.s board today and FINALLY it shoots without running away!!!! I had my dwell at around 20ms on the w.a.s board and the battery still lasted over a month(duracell).

Back to Top
cus98tom View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 12 July 2005
Status: Offline
Points: 491
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cus98tom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2007 at 5:55am

When the A5 is fired on the pull of the trigger the micro switch is actually opening, where as on a C98 with E-trigger the micro switch is being closed which is the more conventional way. The problem with the A5 and W.A.S. is there is very little tolerance to work with for setting the trigger. Just the vibration of the marker while shooting can set open/close the micro-switch causing a run away action . This is a mechanical problem ( adjusting the micro-switch) as the dwell even when set to a longer duration does not help to solve the problem.

Now as to why the Ape board does not seem to suffer this fate , My guess would be a micro-switch better suited to this environment.

Back to Top
A-5Mitch View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 22 July 2005
Status: Offline
Points: 51
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A-5Mitch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2007 at 3:03pm
I had the same problem but I just swiched the polarity. (took the battery out and touched the positive side to the positive side and the negaitive to the negative)  and then reset the trigger to be an A-5 trigger and it works well.  No problems as of yet.
new A-5 user
Back to Top
pitbull1100xx View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 June 2007
Status: Offline
Points: 17
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pitbull1100xx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2007 at 3:06am

A.P.E uses an 80gram switch just like the w.a.s board does(atleast mine was) . Thing is, as I get deeper into this I'm finding that w.a.s really over complicated a timer, a basic timer is really all we are dealing with here. I know w.a.s likes to brag about their programing being superior to all others,and sure the "30bps" tag probably sold a butt load of these boards,but you show me 1 gun,just 1 that would shoot even 25bps all day with NO problems (our game days last 10hrs or more at times) and I'll give you mine.I don't mean some gun burst firing on youtube.com or this gun that a friend of a friend has,I mean YOUR gun shooting ALL DAY @ 25+bps without ANY trouble. I think anybody who has really tried to use full auto all day has found that really anything over 15bps starts to become more of a hassle than a benefit.(beware these are my opinions and not facts) 

 

I know I strayed away from the subject at hand a bit but I have to tell you guys that I absolutely HATE the w.a.s board. I liked the ease of programing but thats about it,the ramping sucks as does the 3 shot version being the only full auto option you have. I bought my gun with the w.a.s board and even after 2 boards and countless hours trying to cure "trigger bounce" issues,I never got to play 1 game without that thing running away. That was until I just gave up and got an a.p.e board, now I play and spray at will! It's finally nice to be able to play without worrying about much of anything other than what stategy we'll use.

 

So again, sorry for such a long strayed post, but I'm just telling you guys that have good luck with your w.a.s boards in your A-5's, consider yourselves lucky. For the rest of you, get an a.p.e board and quit beating your head against the wall and go play!!!!

Back to Top
netramakin View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 28 July 2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 633
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote netramakin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2007 at 6:40pm
APE owns WAS, period.  I've used both and there is little doubt.  And whoever said that the programming is easier on the WAS has it bassackwards.  The Rampage only requires one touch of the button to change modes and I've done it before with a random stick.  BTW, you can buy the grip with Rampage board preinstalled here.

"I'm a riddle so strong, you can't break me."
Back to Top
kgantchev View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 24 July 2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kgantchev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 July 2007 at 11:59am
Allright, I think I'm having the same problem:
  • When I install the e-grip (WAS board) on my gun and I press the fire button, the gun keeps shooting (as if it's running low on CO2) and the only way to stop it is to cock the gun.
    • Nothing comes out the barrel, and I have plenty of paint in the feeder.
  • With the stock trigger the gun performs just fine.
So the fix is to reverse the polarity????

Note: I'm not sure if the gun works on semi-auto, as I was in the field ones and actually got it to work for a little bit of time, so I believe it was on semi-auto... once I get back home from work today, I will test the semi-auto.



Edited by kgantchev - 24 July 2007 at 12:07pm
Back to Top
pitbull1100xx View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 June 2007
Status: Offline
Points: 17
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pitbull1100xx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2007 at 4:28am
Yours actually sounds like you need to remove the metal clip and spring on your trigger which won't work with any e-grip because it won't let the sear return to catch the bolt.
Back to Top
kgantchev View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 24 July 2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kgantchev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2007 at 3:10pm
Originally posted by pitbull1100xx pitbull1100xx wrote:

Yours actually sounds like you need to remove the metal clip and spring on your trigger which won't work with any e-grip because it won't let the sear return to catch the bolt.


Here is my current trigger situation:
1. No metal clip behind the trigger (also called the return slide in the product manual).
2. I'm using the sear with the oval hole, and that sear has a spring underneath it.
3. Should I also remove the spring underneath the sear or the spring underneath the trigger??
(note, that there is a spring hidden "in" the return slide which we refer to as a clip, but I'm not using the trigger with the return slide)

Although I have both triggers, the one with the metal clip and one without the clip.

There are two types of sears, a sear with an oval hole, and a sear with a round hole.  I have tried both, but a tech from Tippmann told me to use the one with the oval hole.

The sear with a round hole is slightly larger and more protruded on top.  But even with that trigger assembly the gun won't stay cocked unless I slam the bolt back, even that doesn't guarantee it.

I'm starting to thing that the CAR stock installed on my gun might have something to do with this, but when I use the original grip (not the WAS e-grip) the gun cocks and shoots just fine.  I'll try the original end cap.


Edited by kgantchev - 25 July 2007 at 3:56pm
Back to Top
kgantchev View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 24 July 2007
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kgantchev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2007 at 3:35pm
Originally posted by mod98commando mod98commando wrote:

The solenoid seemed to have trouble tripping the sear at that speed so I put it down to 23 and changed the dwell and it worked fine. At stock settings, it worked flawlessly.


According to the W.A.S. Product Manual:
Quote
Dwell is the amount of time that the solenoid will be
activated. This time is measured in milliseconds
(1/1000th of a second). The default dwell is 6.0ms.
The lowest allowable dwell time is 4.0ms and the longest
allowable time is 50.0ms. According to the solenoid
manufacturer, the dwell should never be below 5.0ms
for proper operation. Too short of a dwell time will not
release the sear mechanism.


So I'm starting to think that my dwell time should change as well in order for the sear to be released properly.  In addition, some adjustments may have to be made for the Debounce time:

Quote
DebounceTM is the amount of time the
trigger switch must be stable before checking for
another trigger pull. This time is measured in
milliseconds. (The default debounceTM setting is
20ms). If the marker has been double firing, increase
the DebounceTM time. To make your marker fire faster,
reduce the trigger response time by decreasing the
DebounceTM time.


Edited by kgantchev - 25 July 2007 at 3:42pm
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 10.03

This page was generated in 0.188 seconds.