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Bruce A. Frank View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 February 2007 at 1:07am
Originally posted by hardball_67 hardball_67 wrote:

Bruce,

I don't yet speak marker.  I'm trying, just not there yet.

So, is the spring I'm describing the one of which you speak?  If not, what chu talk'n 'bout willis?

Thanks.

The spring that sits between the hammer (rear bolt) and the rear cap. Rides on the rod. That is the spring that drives the  hammer forward to strike the power valve pin. If this spring is weak, the velocity of the ball is reduced. Changes in hammers or installation of stocks that replace the rear cap can change the compression of the spring and reduce its effectiveness.

Fix is to install the stronger spring from a spring kit, or one can replace the rear cap with a Rear Velocity Adjuster (RVA) which allows you to compress the spring more or less as needed to change velocity. (with an RVA you may be able to open the velocity adjustment screw, in the front part of the power tube, and make you velocity adjustments only with the RVA)

Read the manual and look at the schematic view to learn the names of the parts so that when someone tells you what is required to solve your problems with the marker you will know what he is talking about. The still may be some confusion because different manuals have called the same part by different names...such as the Power Valve is also called the CVX valve...and the ASA is also called, hmmm, I have forgotten...someone else will point it out. The pin that the hammer hits which opens the CVX valve is commonly and correctly called a poppet valve. The whole unit, the CVX/Power Valve is called a valve but the pin that opens it is sometimes called the pin valve or poppet valve...sort of a valve in a valve!!! Anyway, you'll catch on.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hardball_67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 February 2007 at 10:56am

 

Thanks for the info Bruce.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hardball_67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 February 2007 at 11:01am
Originally posted by Capt.Jonesy Capt.Jonesy wrote:

Originally posted by Yomillio Yomillio wrote:

Originally posted by Capt.Jonesy Capt.Jonesy wrote:

Originally posted by phil_stl phil_stl wrote:

If you are set on getting better internals the only one that makes a real difference I found was the Rufus Dawg wiked bolt... the Rear Titanium hammer reduces kick very slightly and does increase slightly cycle rate but IDK if it was worth the price tag?

Phil gives good advise, as usual. 

Did you just say what I think you did?

jk...


I did, and I meant it.  Other than being a little over zealous about the 98C, Phil usually uses good logic to back up his recommendations.  Just my $.02

I concur.  Chill on Phil_stl. 

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mantyluoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 February 2007 at 4:33pm

i installed a new spring, only a standard one and i still cant get it to chrono higher than 200.

 

Any other ideas?

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Bruce A. Frank View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 February 2007 at 7:10pm
Originally posted by Mantyluoto Mantyluoto wrote:

i installed a new spring, only a standard one and i still cant get it to chrono higher than 200.

Any other ideas?

Yes, that wasn't the fix. The fix is an aftermarket spring kit with a stronger than standard spring.

There is another way that some find effective. Pull the guide rod out of the back end cap, drop a BB in the hole and slip the rod back into place in the cap. This raises the head of the rod which compresses the spring just a bit and will increase velocity. The BB it captured underneath the head of the rod and stays in place.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mantyluoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2007 at 2:38pm

Ok i packed the end cap and it shoots 298!!

unless i connect the remote line then it shoots 250 so it must be faulty!

 

and this worked on two of them!

Cheers Bruce.

i just need to find a supplier for the enhanced spring pack

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2007 at 8:38pm

http://www.maddmanproducts.com/Home_Page/Spring_Kits.html

There are other online stores that also carry them for a little less money. Make sure you select the set for the 98!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2007 at 12:28am
Originally posted by Mantyluoto Mantyluoto wrote:

Ok i packed the end cap and it shoots 298!!

unless i connect the remote line then it shoots 250 so it must be faulty!

 

and this worked on two of them!

Cheers Bruce.

i just need to find a supplier for the enhanced spring pack



Regarding the remote problem. If you're using the same tank, then the issue is definitely with the remote. Before you replace anything on the remote check to make sure the on/off knob (assuming you have one) is not screwing in so far that it is interfering with the airflow. Try backing it off 1/4 turns and testing the velocity.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 February 2007 at 3:04am

Originally posted by Mack Mack wrote:



Regarding the remote problem. If you're using the same tank, then the issue is definitely with the remote. Before you replace anything on the remote check to make sure the on/off knob (assuming you have one) is not screwing in so far that it is interfering with the airflow. Try backing it off 1/4 turns and testing the velocity.

I agree with that. I once ran a remote setup that had exactly that problem. If you turned the valve knob too far it actually closed off the gas flow.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hardball_67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2007 at 4:04pm

 

OK, I finally got back to the field today.  C02 is shooting around 300, compressed air is still around 250/260 so I know the drop forward is not the issue.  I added the bb to the back of the rear cap with no change. 

It looks like my next stop is to get the spring kit.  I'm breaking a lot of paint for some reason as well.  I'm shooting Empire Inertia and Diab. Heat....????

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hardball_67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 February 2007 at 5:59pm

Played again today.  The Flat line sucked.  I had double the kills once I changed to the stock barrel (it was windy though).  I'm ditching the Flat line....  It's nice when it shoot "perfect" but I spend half my day tuning the kids guns.  Just looking for low maint.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2007 at 12:55pm
Originally posted by hardball_67 hardball_67 wrote:

 

OK, I finally got back to the field today.  C02 is shooting around 300, compressed air is still around 250/260 so I know the drop forward is not the issue.  I added the bb to the back of the rear cap with no change. 

It looks like my next stop is to get the spring kit.  I'm breaking a lot of paint for some reason as well.  I'm shooting Empire Inertia and Diab. Heat....????

Not familiar with Inertia, but I found Diablo Heat way too fragile to use with the Flatline...even with my LPK and operating pressures all the way down at 140 psi.

If you like the Flatline-like trajectory, but without all the complications, get an Apex. I have used both for a couple of years now and, except for running a test now and then, I have discontinued using my Flatline. I owned three at one time. Have sold two on Ebay and retain one (factory refurbished) for experimentation.



Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 28 February 2007 at 12:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hardball_67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2007 at 7:57pm

 

Thanks for the info Bruce.  Never heard of the Apex before.  Crazy is the first thing that comes to mind.  So why can this barrel handle the "bend" with good paint then the flatline?

Being old, big, and fat I'm always looking for an edge.  I think I posted on another thread I purchased a SP 16" for $21 as an improvement on the stock barrel.  I found the Apex for $80 and don't mind going that route if it replaces the flatline.  I was thinking of getting another anyway but if this is better and less...???

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phil_stl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2007 at 11:47am
It is supposed to be better, I'm getting one soon to replace my flatline.  The cool thing about an Apex is you can take the Apex tip off of it and stick it on an even more accurate barrel. 

If during a game you don't want the Apex shooting long distance you can turn it off.

It's less picky on paint.

The only downer is that the balls drop about 4 inches when exiting the barrel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2007 at 11:55am
Originally posted by hardball_67 hardball_67 wrote:

Thanks for the info Bruce.  Never heard of the Apex before.  Crazy is the first thing that comes to mind.  So why can this barrel handle the "bend" with good paint then the flatline?

Being old, big, and fat I'm always looking for an edge.  I think I posted on another thread I purchased a SP 16" for $21 as an improvement on the stock barrel.  I found the Apex for $80 and don't mind going that route if it replaces the flatline.  I was thinking of getting another anyway but if this is better and less...???

A couple of things about the Apex that may make it able to handle fragile paint a bit more gently. The Flatline starts the ball rotating almost as soon as it starts moving.  This may cause the paintball to actually flatten and grow radially as it comes up to speed still inside the bore and touch the opposite side.

I have also found that paint with pronounced seams does not do well through the Flatline because, in my theoretical analysis, as it rolls along the top of the barrel to come up to speed it may bounce back and forth in the bore much like a a tire with a lump on it bounces as it rolls along the pavement.

The Apex imparts spin using a small rubber covered ramp in the last 1.5 inches of the barrel. The bore is open at that point so there is no opposite side with which the spinning ball might bounce or scuff. Also. the Flatline brings the ball up to rotational speed the same way every time...the only variable being velocity. The Apex spin imparting ramp can be adjusted, on the fly, to spin the ball more or less. So if the paint is fragile the ramp engagement can be reduced lessening the abuse of the paintball.

As for being old and fat, I fall into that category. Speedball is my incentive to get out and walk 2.5 miles five days a week. After a quarter mile to warm up I increase my speed to 140+ steps a minute. If I am diligent during the week I can keep up with my son (he's 17) on the mad dash to get to the first bunker.

 



Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 02 March 2007 at 11:59am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote netramakin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2007 at 10:06pm

Hey hardball_67,

Great to hear you out there with the kids!

I've had trouble with both Inertia and Heat in a Flatline.  It loves (cheap) Monster Balls (.692 diam) and Big Balls (.691 diam), though.  I've heard a number of people say small paint works better in a Flatty, but I've found the exact opposite: go big.

I also had the same issue with velocity on my A-5 and realized it was my stock.  I concur that the spring kit should fix it.

As far as cleaning it on the field, this will let you remove it in seconds:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Best-Tippmann-A-5-A5-Flatline-Barrel-Qui ck-Change-Kit_W0QQitemZ170085555897QQihZ007QQcategoryZ47234Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Oh, and a belated welcome to the forum.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rozencrantz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 10:50pm
Hi all, saw this thread and figured I'd put my question here rather than duplicate a similar discussion.

I'm also having velocity trouble.  My A5 doesn't want to shoot above 240, even with the velocity screw nearly all the way out of the gun.

I switched from CO2 to CA- No change.

I replaced the bolt spring with a Maddman- No change.

On my last test firing, the gun never got above 240, and I noticed there's a fairly significant amount of air coming out of the velocity screw when I fire. 

I disassembled the gun, and I can't find a crack in the powertube, but the velocity screw does "wiggle" slightly, and I can screw it in and out with no trouble with my fingertips.

This leaves two questions:  First, is this looseness the cause of my problem?  If my hunch is correct and it is, will a replacement powertube fix the problem?

I know this post is kind of long; thanks ahead of time for any suggestions.  I'm seriously at my wit's end, here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 March 2007 at 10:59pm

I'd go with a replacement power tube...and a new forward bolt at the same time.

It is possible that with the screw that loose you are loosing a significant amount of gas through it. You might try a few wraps of Teflon tape so that the threads engage and stops the leak. Sounds though that the screw is striped in the power tube.

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