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Not Recocking (My tank is full)

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    Posted: 14 January 2007 at 1:54am
Okay, so a couple days ago I played with my 98 custom pro which I have just gotten a carbon fibre 4500 psi tank for. (By no means do I think this is the problem) Halfway through the night my gun began to double fire and then began simply going full auto and chopping balls left right and center until I stopped the bolt and recocked it. Naturally I checked the gauge and it read "2" (2000psi). This continued to progess through the night until no matter whether my gauge said 3000, 2500, 2000, or 1500, every single time a pulled the trigger it would not recock at all and I would have to stop the bolt by hand each time. The next day I went to my trusty paintball store and, as perscribed bought a new set of O-rings for the entire gun, fully detailed stripped it, cleaned everything put in the new O-rings, and a few drops of oil, reassembled and, sure enough, nothing changed. ... ! What now!?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hybrid-sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 3:27am
Worn down sear or rear bolt, most likely. And your tank is HP, right?

Edited by hybrid-sniper - 14 January 2007 at 3:27am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 4:09am

Originally posted by TrivialBeing TrivialBeing wrote:

Okay, so a couple days ago I played with my 98 custom pro which I have just gotten a carbon fibre 4500 psi tank for. (By no means do I think this is the problem) Halfway through the night my gun began to double fire and then began simply going full auto and chopping balls left right and center until I stopped the bolt and recocked it. Naturally I checked the gauge and it read "2" (2000psi). This continued to progess through the night until no matter whether my gauge said 3000, 2500, 2000, or 1500, every single time a pulled the trigger it would not recock at all and I would have to stop the bolt by hand each time. The next day I went to my trusty paintball store and, as perscribed bought a new set of O-rings for the entire gun, fully detailed stripped it, cleaned everything put in the new O-rings, and a few drops of oil, reassembled and, sure enough, nothing changed. ... ! What now!?

I'd check the sear and the notch in the hammer. As for the output pressure as Hybrid-Sniper questioned, are you sure that the HPA tank output is 800 psi and not a LP (400 psi) output? 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 11:28am
^
What they said.

If the tank isn't putting out AT LEAST 800psi, then it's worthless to you unless you invest in a reg and a LP Kit for your Tippmann.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TrivialBeing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 2:34pm
okay, so how do I know if my tank is putting out 800 or 400? and from when I have taken it apart, multiple times now, the sear and the notch are fully functional, since I can recock it each time. Unless the spring isnt strong enough to push it up fast enough to recock on the normal action of the gun .

Here is my tank, it is a Pure Energy, Carbon Fibre, 4500 psi tank. It dosent say anywhere about output, 800 or 400.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RoboCop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 3:15pm
It has a blue reg, it is low output pressure. Call PMI and ask for a high pressure spring kit or see if your local pro shop has one. The pro shop should install it for a small charge. It is easy to change but you need the right kind of lube.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 3:17pm
Get a remote line cap (the part that the co2 tank screws into) remove the actual remote line, in place of the line, screw in a 0-1,000psi gauge (with teflon tape) screw the bottle into the remote line asa, turn on the remote ASA, see what the pressure is on the guage, turn off and vent the ASA, remove bottle..... OR, you can get a friend who has a reg on a HP marker and screw your bottle in and then turn the reg (with gauge)up until it levels out. That'll give you your pressure as well.
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n/m robo's got the answer for you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ekeboo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 5:50pm
Originally posted by RoboCop RoboCop wrote:

It has a blue reg, it is low output pressure. Call PMI and ask for a high pressure spring kit or see if your local pro shop has one. The pro shop should install it for a small charge. It is easy to change but you need the right kind of lube.
UHHH not quite right but close

Crossfire does the blue=LP and Red =HP

Pmi makes 3 different valves Black=3000psi
Blue+4500
and Red=5000 (very rare)
Ive never even seen a Lowpressure output PMI Tank soo ya.

Dont make me get pics either I run my mag off a 4500 PMI tank


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RoboCop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 7:17pm
I have the red reg. I just thought they did the same as crossfire. i have the scion so it is a 5000 bottle. You can also just go to the pro shop and if they are a good shop, they will have a pressure checker thing that they put on the tank.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TrivialBeing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 7:37pm
So, conclusively ... ? could it be the tank, (it is brand new) do they make a tank that puts out a certain amount of air over another or is that the acctual regulator on the gun? How do I know if my sear is good or not because it looks fine but if I pull my bolt back as far as it will go (further than just till it cocks, and I release then the sear dosent engage. I am assuming that means: faulty sear.


*edit: P.S. What are the advantages to a low pressure kit? does it increase accuracy or pressure consistency?

YAY! ... wow... I took my bolt and sear into my garage filled the groove and the sear back to clean edges (acctually added a slight incline to the sear) and now it works beautifully. Its frustrating how tippmann makes sears out of soft metal so that they can get money from people buying new sears.


Edited by TrivialBeing - 14 January 2007 at 8:49pm
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Originally posted by ekeboo ekeboo wrote:

Originally posted by RoboCop RoboCop wrote:

It has a blue reg, it is low output pressure. Call PMI and ask for a high pressure spring kit or see if your local pro shop has one. The pro shop should install it for a small charge. It is easy to change but you need the right kind of lube.
UHHH not quite right but close

Crossfire does the blue=LP and Red =HP

Pmi makes 3 different valves Black=3000psi
Blue+4500
and Red=5000 (very rare)
Ive never even seen a Lowpressure output PMI Tank soo ya.

Dont make me get pics either I run my mag off a 4500 PMI tank
pmi makes tons of lp tanks
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Originally posted by TrivialBeing TrivialBeing wrote:

So, conclusively ... ? could it be the tank, (it is brand new) do they make a tank that puts out a certain amount of air over another or is that the acctual regulator on the gun? How do I know if my sear is good or not because it looks fine but if I pull my bolt back as far as it will go (further than just till it cocks, and I release then the sear dosent engage. I am assuming that means: faulty sear.


*edit: P.S. What are the advantages to a low pressure kit? does it increase accuracy or pressure consistency?

YAY! ... wow... I took my bolt and sear into my garage filled the groove and the sear back to clean edges (acctually added a slight incline to the sear) and now it works beautifully. Its frustrating how tippmann makes sears out of soft metal so that they can get money from people buying new sears.
so it works?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RoboCop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2007 at 11:25pm
They usually don't make you buy new sears, they just send them to you free. They are nice people. Now that Spec Ops intered the scene, it mgiht have gotten worse.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2007 at 10:25am
One of the two metals has to be softer than the other for the hammer and sear to work properly, it's just physics for ya. Anywho, glad it works for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TrivialBeing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2007 at 12:42am
yeah well I guess they wont send me a new one now that Ive filed it a bit, but w/e I can keep taking half a milimeter of every year for probably five years and it wont affect anything. 

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yes it is fully functional and back to grouping 10 balls within a 4 inch radius @ 60ft (20yds). Gotta love the red dot sight and the Lapco Big Shot 14 inch barrel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hybrid-sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2007 at 12:46am
And as for the LPK, they really don't offer a significant advantage over stock parts. They are less noisy and the recoil is less, but not much else.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TrivialBeing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2007 at 12:54am
okay well grouping what I do for a casual player like myself my accuracy is fine and noise and recoil wise... well I am a member of the canadian armed forces (infantry), trained to handle a fully automatic rifle firing NATO rounds so it dosent really make a difference to me. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2007 at 1:56am

Originally posted by TrivialBeing TrivialBeing wrote:

So, conclusively ... ? could it be the tank, (it is brand new) do they make a tank that puts out a certain amount of air over another or is that the acctual regulator on the gun? How do I know if my sear is good or not because it looks fine but if I pull my bolt back as far as it will go (further than just till it cocks, and I release then the sear dosent engage. I am assuming that means: faulty sear.


*edit: P.S. What are the advantages to a low pressure kit? does it increase accuracy or pressure consistency?

YAY! ... wow... I took my bolt and sear into my garage filled the groove and the sear back to clean edges (acctually added a slight incline to the sear) and now it works beautifully. Its frustrating how tippmann makes sears out of soft metal so that they can get money from people buying new sears.

Tippmann is aware of the problem, and it is a problem, not an intensional quality change. Contact Tippmann and tell them that the hammer and sear appear to have worn too quickly. Tippmann has been replacing these for free.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote michaela2z Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2007 at 6:42am
OK nobody else has said this yet so its worth a try. At my field we run on 98c's and they were fine untill they started double firing/auto/etc so replaced all o rings and still nothing but noticed that when pointed up it double fired and when down it didn't. So took one apart again and looked at the drive spring and saw they had rusted up and started to break up so simply swaped the spring and they were fine. Don't know if its the same prob as your's but worth a try.
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