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Oils for marker??

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    Posted: 03 January 2007 at 2:04am
I have a 98 Custom and have a rear cocking bolt, im not sure what its made of, the material is the same as the stock A5 bolt, feels like plastic.  And I was wondering what is the best oil to put on it?  will something like 3 in 1 work or should I go and get a more specific gun oil like Hoppes 9?  Thanks!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 January 2007 at 6:12am

There have been many indepth discussions on this board on that topic .

 The oils you mentioned will work nicely , Hoppe's oil is the oil packaged with new Tippmann markers , so it would be the preferred lubricant , but as has been discovered , even WD-40 will work in a pinch (personally I dont recommend it tho,,)

SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 January 2007 at 9:37am
Originally posted by Shadowminion Shadowminion wrote:

There have been many indepth discussions on this board on that topic .

 The oils you mentioned will work nicely , Hoppe's oil is the oil packaged with new Tippmann markers , so it would be the preferred lubricant , but as has been discovered , even WD-40 will work in a pinch (personally I dont recommend it tho,,)

Well, I still have (for 6 months now) "O" rings and Power Valve seals from a 98C soaking in WD-40. Original concern was that the solvent or some other component of the lubricant would damage these parts. Absolutely nothing has changed with these parts.

Once the solvent evaporated off the WD-40 became very thick, certainly a lot thicker than Hoppe's gun oil, but I have found no interference with marker function. And, the thicker oil appears to reduce scuffing between the hammer and the shells. There also appears to be less grit scratch and scuff marks where the "O" ring of the forward bolt slides into the barrel. I am beginning to like WD-40 more and more. But, as was said, the light oil that ships with the marker these days is Hoppe's. Just about any oil will work well in Tippmanns. Some better than others, but none have caused any problems that I have been able to discover.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 January 2007 at 10:12am
you can throw a tippmann in a vat of sulphuric acid and the orings should outlast pretty much everything else.
nitrile rubber is very chemically resistant.

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/html//About_Orings/orings_comp arison.htm

Edited by pattison - 03 January 2007 at 10:13am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote casper8x Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 January 2007 at 6:48pm
I use Craftsman pneumatic oil its cheap and works quite well. It is the same oil you use for pneumatic tools suchas impact wrenches, air hammers etc. It can be bought in small amounts like 3 oz. or quite large for entire shops and what not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 January 2007 at 7:44pm
Originally posted by Bruce A. Frank Bruce A. Frank wrote:

Originally posted by Shadowminion Shadowminion wrote:

There have been many indepth discussions on this board on that topic .

 The oils you mentioned will work nicely , Hoppe's oil is the oil packaged with new Tippmann markers , so it would be the preferred lubricant , but as has been discovered , even WD-40 will work in a pinch (personally I dont recommend it tho,,)

Well, I still have (for 6 months now) "O" rings and Power Valve seals from a 98C soaking in WD-40. Original concern was that the solvent or some other component of the lubricant would damage these parts. Absolutely nothing has changed with these parts.

Once the solvent evaporated off the WD-40 became very thick, certainly a lot thicker than Hoppe's gun oil, but I have found no interference with marker function. And, the thicker oil appears to reduce scuffing between the hammer and the shells. There also appears to be less grit scratch and scuff marks where the "O" ring of the forward bolt slides into the barrel. I am beginning to like WD-40 more and more. But, as was said, the light oil that ships with the marker these days is Hoppe's. Just about any oil will work well in Tippmanns. Some better than others, but none have caused any problems that I have been able to discover.

 

Quite True Bruce (and Pattison too) , but I still prefer to use a lubricant whose chemical and physical properties will remain relatively stable over time ! (at least until the next maintenance performed) .

 Bruce and I have done some extensive research and empirical testing in times past (from differing sides of the debate) and probably discovered as much evidence to support the other's opinion as our own ! I dont agree with him as far as using WD-40 as a primary lubricant , but I can find no harm in using it either .

SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 January 2007 at 5:28am
i don't use wd40 ever, on anything.
not because it will damage things, but it it just not a good lubricant.

Edited by pattison - 04 January 2007 at 5:28am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 January 2007 at 11:41am
At the field I worked at, every day it was a squirt of WD-40 in ever ASA, screw in a tank, and fire it out with the barrel off. We've got some pro-lites out there with original valves, seals, bolt o-rings, etc. No problem with it. WD-40 btw, wasn't originally created as a lubricant for long term use, it was an alternative to some of the more dangerous "Liquid wrench" substances out there (many of which have since been banned by various health groups in the US and canadian govt's) It pretty much was designed to loosen up rusted or stuck parts to get them apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 January 2007 at 7:04pm

Quite True Tallen , it is a penetrating oil and works well for that .

The changing Viscosity of WD-40 does cause problems in high speed pneumatic equipment if used ocasionally and left that way as happens quite often in production environments . I've seen countless air cylinders internals torn to shreds by the "MISUSE" of that stuff . Over time the "oils" will turn to a gummy varnish like substance , and thats my biggest beef with using WD-40 , or recommending its use to others .

The primary ingredient in WD-40 that makes it such a good penetrating oil , is a substance called "Stoddard solvent" , commonly known as Dry Cleaning Fluid .

Pattison and Bruce are correct in that this substance has very little if any chemical degradation of the orings in Tippmann markers ,,,, but again , this is my preference and experience that most users of "Lubricants" will assume if a machine (be it a marker or an air cylinder)was lubricated several months ago and stored , it will not need to be lubricated again anytime soon . Hence my attempts to steer general users towards more stable forms of lubricants .

Used the way you described , daily ,, I see no harm in its use ...

I do use WD-40 on things such as door hinges , car hood mechanisms and doors , and as a cleaner for removing built up caked on oil deposits on machinery .

 

SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ekeboo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2007 at 12:22am
Originally posted by tallen702 tallen702 wrote:

At the field I worked at, every day it was a squirt of WD-40 in ever ASA, screw in a tank, and fire it out with the barrel off. We've got some pro-lites out there with original valves, seals, bolt o-rings, etc. No problem with it. WD-40 btw, wasn't originally created as a lubricant for long term use, it was an alternative to some of the more dangerous "Liquid wrench" substances out there (many of which have since been banned by various health groups in the US and canadian govt's) It pretty much was designed to loosen up rusted or stuck parts to get them apart.
HAha i Think i got some of this bad stuff.Ever heard of R.G.S.? well its penetrating oil. ill try to find a can around our house and take a pic


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TIPPY98ACT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2007 at 12:57am
First, does anyone know what the name WD-40 stands for? The answer is.... Water Displacement Attempt Number 40. Second, I.M.O just get a bottle of Hoppes #9. It's cheap and it works! That is why Tippmann uses it.

Edited by TIPPY98ACT - 05 January 2007 at 1:11am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2007 at 11:17am
Fun facts:

It was first used to protect electrical equipment from corrosion and to protect the outer covering of missiles during the cold-war (as it coats and keep oxidation from occurring).

It will also completely dissolve cocaine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phil_stl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 January 2007 at 7:22pm
I use Kermode Concepts 100% Synthetic Trouble Free Gun Oil.

It doesn't freeze or create slush and it's FDA approved!  Yup that's right the FDA approved so if you're really thirsty and don't have water...

It's got great reviews on pbreview as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clownshooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 January 2007 at 9:02am
WD-40 was originally created to displace water hence the Stoddard Solvent. It's lubricating properties are a by-product and it is petroleum based.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TIPPY98ACT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2007 at 3:01am
Hey clownshooter, do you think they know that petroleum based products over time will (eat) rubber and plastic?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2007 at 5:12pm

TIPPYACT , do some research , like some of the rest of us have done , when you can find a compatibility chart put out by somebody reputable , Show it to us ..

http://www.engineersedge.com/general_design_engineering.shtm l

http://www.mcmaster.com/ 

If not,, read these and get back to us when you understand it ....



Edited by Shadowminion - 09 January 2007 at 5:15pm
SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2007 at 8:06pm
Originally posted by TIPPY98ACT TIPPY98ACT wrote:

Hey clownshooter, do you think they know that petroleum based products over time will (eat) rubber and plastic?

not everything you will hear some guy say on a message board can be accepted as science t98a.
on paintball forums you would probably be safer assuming the opposite because people are full of elitist fanboy hype.
i posted a link to the mcmaster oring chem resistance chart somewhere up there, you should check it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TIPPY98ACT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 January 2007 at 1:49am
Hey Shadowminion, try this...http://www.trojancondoms.com/. Is that reputable enough for you? Do some research! I'm just kidding. I did educate myself on wd-40.com and found that it will NOT eat rubber. As far as the o-ring chart, thanks guys, but I already know some o-rings can be bought to withstand certain types environments and chemicals. All I'm trying to say is they give you a sample of Hoppes#9 for a reason!

Edited by TIPPY98ACT - 10 January 2007 at 3:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 January 2007 at 2:00am

Originally posted by TIPPY98ACT TIPPY98ACT wrote:

Hey clownshooter, do you think they know that petroleum based products over time will (eat) rubber and plastic?

Well, I have been soaking all the "O" rings and seals from the 98C for almost 6 months now. WD-40, Hoppe's Gun Oil, Cutters Air tool oil,  Remington Gun oil, wheel bearing grease and Quaker State motor oil. All are petroleum based (mineral oils) and nothing has changed.

Heck, I have even soaked them in peanut oil and olive oil...no change. Sealing Paintball markers is not the job for which these "O" ring and seals were originally designed to do. They are designed to work in oils.

Some "O" rings and seal materials are designed to work with different types of lubricant, but all the common "O" rings will last for tens of thousands of shots in a Tippmann.

The same cannot be said for petrolium oils on latex...as if you'd ever have the opportunity to find out.



Edited by Bruce A. Frank - 10 January 2007 at 2:05am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TIPPY98ACT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 January 2007 at 1:07am
Hey Bruce and shadowminion, thanks for opening my eyes! Last night at work I went into the shop and found one of our copies of the McMaster-Carr catalog. I read the o-ring explanation section and found that most o-rings are not effected by oil based lubricants. Go figure? My question is what type of o-ring do you guys think Tippmann uses in their guns? I found that Buna-n is one of the most widely used o-rings for it's ability to resist petroleum-based oils, hydraulic fluid and non-aromatic solvents. It has high abrasion resistance. Also temperature range is from -65 to +275 degrees Fahrenheit. Sounds like something you would want in a paintball gun right? Then I read on and found Viton and Polyurethane, Neoprene, Kalrez, Teflon, Silicone and even Ecapsulated o-rings. Most have the features you would want to have and some that you don't! So what one do you think they put in the guns? I really want to know what you guys think? On a fun note, I asked ten different people on my shift (ages between 30 to 54) what they thought about petroleum based lubes on rubber and plastic and they all suggested it was a bad idea! Where do think this theory came from?

Edited by TIPPY98ACT - 11 January 2007 at 2:18am
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