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a-5 ebolt

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    Posted: 26 December 2006 at 10:30pm

How are the a5 ebolts done?

about how much would they cost to make?

cause im looking into doing one for my us-5

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snake6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 December 2006 at 10:41pm
They are completely custom.

You could do one if you have access to a CNC machine... 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 December 2006 at 11:14pm

crap no

so i can't like take a 98 ebolt and do a lot of milling?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2006 at 8:13am

you could probably search under the marker gallery for pictures of some peoples E-bolted A-5's, I have seen a couple different ones. I know at least one of those posts has pics of how the internals are done.

other than that, you would have to try for yourself to figure out what else would need to be done to put it in a US-5.

If you really do attempt this, it should be really interesting, only a very few have done it to an A-5, much less a Non-Tippmann gun.

Good luck to you

*EDIT*
Here is the link to one showing the internals of an E-bolted A-5.
http://www.tippmann.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=150 110&KW=e%2Dbolt+A%2D5&TPN=1

looks like a mess cause it was a custom two-way ram, so its got a mess of hoses and stuff. if you had a E-bolt, it would be alot easier to do than that mess...... as following example....

one thing to think about though is the fact the first one, probably is actually a better design. its a mess because he has the board and all the pneumatics on the side of the gun, but it makes it alot easier to take appart. if you think about it, that second gun I have the picture of, is gonna be a pain to maintain because although it looks alot cleaner of a job, he has all the electronics and stuff in the grip. so now in order to take it apart its gonna have alot of stuff you worry about messing up if done wrong.

I hope this helps carl



Edited by Snick - 27 December 2006 at 8:30am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2006 at 5:25pm

thanks that does help quite a bit

hm... maybe i could wire the us-5 egrip so instead of tripping the sear, it would send a electronic signal to the ebolt

anyone have a link to how people make their custom 98 custom ebolts?

where are the majority of parts bought?

and i will probably wait before starting this till i have some experience with the karnivor i want to buy.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2006 at 8:40pm

i just really need to know how the trigger actually trips the ebolt.

like when you pull the trigger, how the ebolt knows to fire

i think it would be easier than to make a a5 ebolt because you don't have to worry about the cyclone.

plus no milling is needed in the grip



Edited by carl_the_sniper - 27 December 2006 at 8:42pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 December 2006 at 4:09pm

the big ol triple post:

so in size how to the 98 internals compare to the a-5 ones?

i am hoping it is the same or even better, bigger.

 

i also need answers on how the trigger works.

 

edit: and pictures of the internals of a 98c ebolted would be nice



Edited by carl_the_sniper - 28 December 2006 at 4:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote karll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 December 2006 at 5:13pm
Originally posted by carl_the_sniper carl_the_sniper wrote:

i just really need to know how the trigger actually trips the ebolt.

like when you pull the trigger, how the ebolt knows to fire



You trip the micro switch which sends a signal to the board which in turn sends a signal to the solenoid. Upon receiving the signal, the solenoid releases air into the ram housing which pushes the ram forward and fires the marker.

Here are several threads I have found helpful in building my ebolt project.

Ebolt project with good info on solenoids.
General info on an ebolt setup.
Custom ram info.
Tippjack's ebolt project on m98.org.
Tippyjack's ebolt project on TO.
My custom ram build up. Lots of NN ram info and info about ebolt setups.

A5 ebolt thread 1 on the nation.
A5 ebolt thread 2 on the nation.
A5 ebolt thread 3 on the nation.


Pictures. (using links so I don't clutter the thread with huge pics.)

Thread full of NN's pics.
Ebolt with custom ram and mini morlock 1.
Ebolt with custom ram and mini morlock 2.

Most pictures I have used as references are throughout the threads I already gave you. Hope this helps.


Edited by karll - 28 December 2006 at 5:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 December 2006 at 9:28pm

Thanks alot

i will read all that over the next few hours.

it looks like there's a good chance that this could happen.

 

but i kinda want to use the 98 ebolt because of my tech skills failing

 

but what does a macro switch look like? how does the trigger actually trip it?

 

and most importantly i need to know how 98 internals compare to a5 ones.

Do you aggree that if the 98 ebolt will fit, i will not have to buy anything else? no fittings or anything?



Edited by carl_the_sniper - 28 December 2006 at 9:30pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 December 2006 at 10:13pm
Originally posted by carl_the_sniper carl_the_sniper wrote:

Thanks alot

i will read all that over the next few hours. it looks like there's a good chance that this could happen. but i kinda want to use the 98 ebolt because of my tech skills failing.. but what does a macro switch look like? how does the trigger actually trip it? and most importantly i need to know how 98 internals compare to a5 ones. Do you aggree that if the 98 ebolt will fit, i will not have to buy anything else? no fittings or anything?

The E-Bolt for the 98 or 98C can be made to fit. It is all mechanical work to get things to fit where they need to for function.

The trigger switch is a small rectangular block  (1/2 inch long, 3/16 inch thick, 5/16 inch front to back...a micro switch)with a small lever arm on it. The arm is contacted by the trigger to actuate the switch...and as was noted in another post, electricity then actuates the gas solenoid providing pressure to move the ram...striking the pin valve on the power valve body...releasing the gas to propel the ball

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so basically it would just be a matter of putting the switch behind the trigger? No special mods or anything?

I'm just wondering because the a-5 and the us-5 each have a trigger assembly within a box. The 98 has just a free trigger inside the gun.

 

are there any parts of the ebolt that must be airtight?

Maybe take a look that that and tell me what needs to be airtight.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote karll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 December 2006 at 10:37pm
The entire ram assembly needs to be airtight. The big black thing if you will. You can put a microswitch in the spot on at A-5/US-5 where the microswitch sits for a e-trigger. You just have to wire it in, no big deal.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 December 2006 at 10:50pm

how much should i pay for an ebolt kit?

do you need hpa to run it?

and do you mind actually drawing on it the parts that need to be airtight

and do i need anything special for the air or can i just hook my existing hose into the ebolt asa?

do i need a reg?



Edited by carl_the_sniper - 28 December 2006 at 11:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote karll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 December 2006 at 12:18am
how much should i pay for an ebolt kit?

Ebolt kits can run anywhere from $75 to $200 dollars. It would probably be best just to look for a ram assembly. The ram assembly in the picture you posted is a one way spring returned ram. This means that air is released into the ram to power it forward, and then a spring returns it to it's original position. A two way ram (much faster) uses air to push the ram forward and return it.


do you need hpa to run it?

I would never run CO2 with my ebolt. I would strongly recommend HPA.

and do you mind actually drawing on it the parts that need to be airtight

Not at all. The green is the entire ram assembly. This whole piece is air tight. On this one the two red boxes mark the only openings in the ram. The box to the left marks the ramcap which holes the rod in place. The box on the right is the air inlet to power the ram forward. The white X near the front of the ram marks another spot where a fitting would be if you had a two way ram.


and do i need anything special for the air or can i just hook my existing hose into the ebolt asa?

If you have the ebolt asa, then you can screw your hose right into it, run a line from the asa to your solenoid, and you are good to go. If you don't want to take that road then you need to buy an aftermarket lpr (WGP or PPS.)

do i need a reg?

Simply put, no. However the best part about the ebolt is the fact that it takes away the need for all of the blowback gasses required to reset the stock hammer. If you have a reg you can lower your operating pressure a great deal, and we all know how much of a difference that can make.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 December 2006 at 12:35am

ok im 50/50 right now if i do this or not.

i really think it would be easier just to use the 98 ebolt i posted.

but tell me if this would work: (forget the crappy drawing and laque of electronics inside)

normal us-5:

ebolt pic i made:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote karll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 December 2006 at 12:39am
As long as you can securely mount the ram, than I don't see any reason why it wouldn't. You just need to make sure you get your ram stroke measured correctly and all that jazz.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 December 2006 at 12:44am

um...  i know this will sound really bad but... can you tell me what all the parts are and what they do?

im not even sure which one the ram is (i think it's the black thing at the end)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote karll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 December 2006 at 12:50am
Do you have AIM or MSN? I could do this a lot quicker there. Any sort of IM service?
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msn but not tonight

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 December 2006 at 12:34pm

The black thing is the RAM, a pneumatic cylinder in which gas pressure drives a piston forward so that the "hammer" mounted on the end of the piston rod strikes the pin valve releasing the gas from the power valve.

Just a bit of further education. The ram is operated from a low pressure regulator that is separate from the pressure propelling the ball.

The Tippmann GTA E-Bolt kit is unharmed by operation with CO2, BUT, at high rates of fire the CO2 will cause freeze up just as it does in the mechanical marker. HPA is the better way to go.

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