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Recocking Problems (there are 2)

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100toakill View Drop Down
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    Posted: 31 October 2006 at 3:59pm

 First off, my 98C burps and won't recock whenever I shoot. I'm going try to remedy this with forums topics I've been reading. The detent is fine, the tank has CO2, and the O-rings are fine.

 My other concern is that when my Tippmann is actually functioning, I need to recock my gun often when I'm shooting really fast during semi-auto fire. I'm sure this is just me outshooting my gun (the sear probably is slipping off the hammer latch). How should I fix this? Would a stiffer spring help?

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tecumseh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tecumseh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 October 2006 at 4:52pm
is the co2 tank full? if its not then thats causing the burping
what?
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Bruce A. Frank View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 October 2006 at 6:22pm
Originally posted by 100toakill 100toakill wrote:

 First off, my 98C burps and won't recock whenever I shoot. I'm going try to remedy this with forums topics I've been reading. The detent is fine, the tank has CO2, and the O-rings are fine.

 My other concern is that when my Tippmann is actually functioning, I need to recock my gun often when I'm shooting really fast during semi-auto fire. I'm sure this is just me outshooting my gun (the sear probably is slipping off the hammer latch). How should I fix this? Would a stiffer spring help?

If the sear were slipping then the marker would be firing full auto, not just a few cycles of burp. If the marker burps then come to a stop in the un-cocked position that indicates that the hammer(rear bolt) is not getting pushed back far enough for the sear to engage. The short cycle of the bolt is shorter and shorter till it comes to rest.

This type of failure happens when the CO2 tank is low so that the reduced charge of air is too low to push the bolt fully to the rear.

A couple of other things can happen to reduce the pressure pushing the hammer back. You say the "O" rings are OK. Is the "O" ring on the front of the hammer nick free and well oiled? This ring has to make a good seal so that the force to the gas can throw the bolt back.

The port in the side of the power tube, where the Cyclone actuator would connect is open. The velocity adjustment screw has fallen out of the power tube. The power tube is cracked or the screws that hold the power valve in place are lose or gone.

One last thing is that the pin valve on the CO2 tank may not be getting depressed far enough to supply the full charge of CO2 through the ASA. OR, and this one happens fairly frequently, the nub inside the ASA that depresses the tank valve pin is too long and actually blocks full flow of gas from the tank valve. (you can test for that last one by screwing the tank all the way into the ASA then backing about half a turn. The valve will be opened but not blocked...This test could also help you determine if that nub is too short. If it is and you back off a half turn there may be no flow at all.)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 100toakill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 October 2006 at 8:11pm
Thanks. Just now my gun went "boom"; CO2 shooting out of every hole imagainable, and sputtering worse than a chronic smoker. I think I'll just by a new powertube with O-rings, and pray.
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