Tippmann Pneumatics Inc. Homepage
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

*Had* a problem, *its fixed now*

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Snick View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 03 October 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 343
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: *Had* a problem, *its fixed now*
    Posted: 26 August 2006 at 2:34pm

Okay, my problem is that I am trying to remove the steel braid line connected to the valve/power tube and it won't come off. I am trying to take it off because I got a vert assembly coming in soon so I have to take off the regular stock line. the thing is this is a rather old and abused 98, so I think it may be rusted in. I realize that it probably has a good amount of loctite/thread lock on it but it just seems superhuman to get this thing to come off. I have tried and tried and tried to the point where I am worried about breaking the powertube while trying to get better leaverage.

so if you have any helpful ideas of how to get it off safely without ruining the valve or powertube it would be greatly appreciated. I mean, is there supposed to be some sort of solvent to break down the thread lock or something? please give me some suggestions



Edited by Snick - 26 August 2006 at 5:01pm
Back to Top
DVLCHLD View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 17 April 2006
Status: Offline
Points: 74
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DVLCHLD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 August 2006 at 2:49pm
It's not as bad as you think. You should have the power tube/valve assembly completely seperate from the marker. So all you have is the powertube/valve assembly with the steel line hanging off of it. Now put the powertube/valve assembly in a vise. Be sure to wrap a rag or cloth around it and DO NOT CLAMP DOWN ON IT WITH THE VISE. Just use the vice to gently hold it to keep it from turning. Now you need the wrench that fits the line fitting. Here's the trick. Find a length of pipe to slide over the end of the wrench. This will basically make the wrench longer. A 12-15 inch piece of pipe should work fine. This gives you ALOT more torque when trying to turn the stuck fitting. If you don'y have a vise get someone to stand on the powertube/valve assemby while it's on the edge of a sidewalk or brick or something. Just make sure they only use enough pressure to keep it from moving and that they don't crush it. Use a hair dryer to heat the powertube/valve assembly up as much as possible. Don't worry, a hair dryer won't get it hot enough to ruin the seals.  Now TURN THAT SUCKER LIKE YOU"RE MAD AT IT!!!!If your wrench tries to round off the fitting you may need to buy a line wrench. Good luck. If by chance you do crack the power tube you can get another one for like $5.00-$10.00 bucks but it should screw right out.

Edited by DVLCHLD - 26 August 2006 at 2:54pm
I've never seen anyone own the woods because of what marker they use.
Back to Top
Bruce A. Frank View Drop Down
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Avatar
KRL Reincarnated?

Joined: 27 March 2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 3063
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 August 2006 at 4:02pm
Originally posted by Snick Snick wrote:

Okay, my problem is that I am trying to remove the steel braid line connected to the valve/power tube and it won't come off. I am trying to take it off because I got a vert assembly coming in soon so I have to take off the regular stock line. the thing is this is a rather old and abused 98, so I think it may be rusted in. I realize that it probably has a good amount of loctite/thread lock on it but it just seems superhuman to get this thing to come off. I have tried and tried and tried to the point where I am worried about breaking the powertube while trying to get better leaverage.

so if you have any helpful ideas of how to get it off safely without ruining the valve or powertube it would be greatly appreciated. I mean, is there supposed to be some sort of solvent to break down the thread lock or something? please give me some suggestions

DVLCHLD covers it for the most part. The point I would argue with is the use of a hair drier to heat things. A hair drier will not heat the metal parts anywhere close to a high enough temperature to loosen metal to metal threaded parts. Temps high enough to help separate those parts will melt the power tube and the plastic hose inside the braid.

Use the vise with several layers of towel around it and tighten the vise just enough to firmly hold the power tube. Remove the end of the braid that connects to the ASA first. Then you can use a box end wrench over the braid line to fit correctly where the fitting screws into the power tube/valve.

Back to Top
Snick View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 03 October 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 343
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 August 2006 at 5:00pm
thanks guys. I did as recomended with the padded vice and wrench with added leight and I managed to get the thing off after a little while. now I can't wait to get my new stuff in the mail so that I can get this thing running the way I want it. guess I'll have to post pics in the gallery when that happens
Back to Top
DVLCHLD View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 17 April 2006
Status: Offline
Points: 74
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DVLCHLD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 August 2006 at 5:40pm

Adding heat. Even as little heat as a hair dryer will muster up will help loosen stuck parts, even metal threads. I know, I grew up in a machine shop and my dad is a metalergist. I'm 39 now and have worked with metal my whole life. No, the hair dryer isn't as good as a heat gun or torch but raising the temp just a little is better than nothing. Another good method for loosening stuck metal threads is to move the wrench back and forth not just one direction. So loosen-tighten-loosen-tighten-loosen-tighten and keep going in small increments until it breaks loose.

I've never seen anyone own the woods because of what marker they use.
Back to Top
Shadowminion View Drop Down
Gold Member
Gold Member
Avatar
Strike 1 - Language, 3/20

Joined: 06 June 2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 1624
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 August 2006 at 8:43pm

The addition of heat will tend to soften any threadlocking material also , and the thermal expansion of the parts cant hurt , sometimes every little bit helps .

Glad you got the hose off .

SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 10.03

This page was generated in 0.186 seconds.