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98 Custom Not ReCocking*new Problem!*

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S\/\/4T-L()G4N View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S\/\/4T-L()G4N Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2006 at 11:22pm
The purpose of the loctite is two fold. Seal the threads (which teflon tape will also do) and to make sure the screws stay tight and in place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FA22RaptorF22 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2006 at 11:57pm
Originally posted by S\/\/4T-L()G4N S\/\/4T-L()G4N wrote:

The purpose of the loctite is two fold. Seal the threads (which teflon tape will also do) and to make sure the screws stay tight and in place.


^^^Exactly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrisb319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2006 at 12:04am
I was playing with my gun today and it would randomly uncock itself I would have to manually re cock it to get it going again only for it to do teh same thing. I have had this problem before I replaced the CVX valve. I replaced my drive spring and pin, the only possible ting I can think of is the valve screws aren't locktited shut. I also don't hear the gun leaking any C02.


Edited by Chrisb319 - 30 June 2006 at 12:07am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrisb319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2006 at 3:15pm
noticed something the gun only uncocks when I start to fire fast.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrisb319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2006 at 1:19am
Anyone got any ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pooperscooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2006 at 1:24am
My gun has done this for a long time.

Just recock it its no big deal

If it gets more frequent and annoying then try to fix it, but mine only does it like 2-3 times all day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrisb319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2006 at 3:30am
Originally posted by pooperscooper pooperscooper wrote:

My gun has done this for a long time.

Just recock it its no big deal

If it gets more frequent and annoying then try to fix it, but mine only does it like 2-3 times all day


I'm always shooting fast therefore, the problem happens quite frequently.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mehs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2006 at 5:01am
Well, that sounds like a sear spring problem.  What do you have on your gun at the moment (including self modifications).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pooperscooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2006 at 12:32pm
I shoot fast alot.

When mine does it its usually at the begginning of a game or after I havent shot for a while sometimes its like not cocked all the way and i cock it and it shoots fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrisb319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2006 at 2:09pm
Originally posted by Mehs Mehs wrote:

Well, that sounds like a sear spring problem.  What do you have on your gun at the moment (including self modifications).


I have the R/T with flatline.

and this mod which quiets the sear, however this problem happened before without this mod. The sear spring is brand new with the r/t.




Edited by Chrisb319 - 01 July 2006 at 2:32pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pooperscooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2006 at 2:23pm
Something Might be freezing up with fast firing of the RT but that seems unlikely (I dont have an RT so i dont know)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrisb319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2006 at 2:34pm
I don't know if this helps but, I do notice that my gun forms allot of condensation around it(water) is that normall?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 July 2006 at 9:01am

Condensation is normal if you're shooting CO2 .

The infrequent recocking problem , could be that condensate actually freezing inside your marker creating an obstruction to the motion of your rear bolt . (any forign object in the path of your rear bolt could cause this , as well as misalignment of parts , Ie; cvx valve loose , dirt/grit  )

Loctite 242 ( Blue) is removable and made for keeping screws from working loose , the Tippmann factory uses it to keep the CVX valve screws in place .

Another  (and more likely) cause of your recocking problem might be this , when you shoot with CO2 rapidly , the CO2 pressure in your tank lowers as the tank temperature drops , this is called  "Shootdown"  . The Tippmann is made to operate on High pressure , 850-900 PSI , so when the pressure drops much below 700 PSI (as it will do when shooting rapidly for any length of time (30 to 60 shots ?? ) there wont be enough pressure to cycle the marker properly . 

Try using shorter bursts , de-tuning your RT to a lower RoF , or shooting in semi mode . If you absolutely need , or want to sustain a high Rate of Fire , about the best option is switching to HPA (Nitro) .

It depends on your personal style of play and your pocketbook really ...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chrisb319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 July 2006 at 11:57pm
Originally posted by Shadowminion Shadowminion wrote:

Condensation is normal if you're shooting CO2 .

The infrequent recocking problem , could be that condensate actually freezing inside your marker creating an obstruction to the motion of your rear bolt . (any forign object in the path of your rear bolt could cause this , as well as misalignment of parts , Ie; cvx valve loose , dirt/grit  )

Loctite 242 ( Blue) is removable and made for keeping screws from working loose , the Tippmann factory uses it to keep the CVX valve screws in place .

Another  (and more likely) cause of your recocking problem might be this , when you shoot with CO2 rapidly , the CO2 pressure in your tank lowers as the tank temperature drops , this is called  "Shootdown"  . The Tippmann is made to operate on High pressure , 850-900 PSI , so when the pressure drops much below 700 PSI (as it will do when shooting rapidly for any length of time (30 to 60 shots ?? ) there wont be enough pressure to cycle the marker properly . 

Try using shorter bursts , de-tuning your RT to a lower RoF , or shooting in semi mode . If you absolutely need , or want to sustain a high Rate of Fire , about the best option is switching to HPA (Nitro) .

It depends on your personal style of play and your pocketbook really ...



Thanks, but I read the manual; and there is no mention of locktite on those screws.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2006 at 7:17am

Do they tell you in the manual that the cover for the cocking knob is made from plastic !? Believe me, it is .

Same with the CVX valve ,,, they use loctite to keep the screws in place , . There is collectively well over 100 years of experience from the gold and platinum forum members who've already posted in this thread , Pay attention and learn .

 

(Yer about two sentences away from being called a "Snot nosed Noob")

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FA22RaptorF22 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2006 at 12:06pm
Originally posted by Shadowminion Shadowminion wrote:

Condensation is normal if you're shooting CO2 .

The infrequent recocking problem , could be that condensate actually freezing inside your marker creating an obstruction to the motion of your rear bolt . (any forign object in the path of your rear bolt could cause this , as well as misalignment of parts , Ie; cvx valve loose , dirt/grit  )

Loctite 242 ( Blue) is removable and made for keeping screws from working loose , the Tippmann factory uses it to keep the CVX valve screws in place .

Another  (and more likely) cause of your recocking problem might be this , when you shoot with CO2 rapidly , the CO2 pressure in your tank lowers as the tank temperature drops , this is called  "Shootdown"  . The Tippmann is made to operate on High pressure , 850-900 PSI , so when the pressure drops much below 700 PSI (as it will do when shooting rapidly for any length of time (30 to 60 shots ?? ) there wont be enough pressure to cycle the marker properly . 

Try using shorter bursts , de-tuning your RT to a lower RoF , or shooting in semi mode . If you absolutely need , or want to sustain a high Rate of Fire , about the best option is switching to HPA (Nitro) .

It depends on your personal style of play and your pocketbook really ...



Hey bud.... its not blue locktite they use... they use red (high strength) on everything.  I personally like blue better but they use red.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2006 at 7:31pm

Loctite 242 is blue and is removable , is there a dispute with that statement ?

Is there a dispute that Tippmann uses loctite in the assembly of their markers , specifically holding the CVX valve screws in place ? 

I dont understand what your question or whatever is , please clarify any information I've presented you feel is wrong . Oh, I see , actually Tippmann uses a wicking grade of loctite (green, and very low viscosity) , but its still loctite . Point is , they use a removable loctite . I've been using Loctite products since they came to market in the mid 70's and am quite familiar with most of their holding/sealing products

  I doubt they've ever used High strength loctite on any of their fastners , you see loctite 272 (Red) can only be removed with the application of heat (as in a torch) , and will shear a 1/4-20 bolt off , but hey ,if you want to use 272 , more power to Ya , Yer gonna need it  !!

Anyways , like I said in your other thread where you felt you werent getting the answers you were looking for Chris , look to the Gold and Platinum forum members here for a wealth of information . A lot of the other members here know quite a bit too , and some just think they do , so you have to sort of "Weed-out" a lot of whats said . I would not completely trust even the virtue of being "Gold member" , since the forum went to a post count criteria for that "Honor"(?). If you hear it from several Plat's , you can almost take it to the bank !!

If you want more information on "CO2 vs. HPA" I suggest doing a search on the topic , there was a thread last week that covered the pro's and cons of both power sources quite comprehensively .

I'm still betting on shoot down . 



Edited by Shadowminion - 03 July 2006 at 8:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FA22RaptorF22 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2006 at 8:52pm
I believe there may be many types of red because on all the tippmann's i have gotten, there has been red crap filling up the valve screw holes.  Unless it wasn't locktite...but it must be because they give you a little white tube of red locktite with many of the parts you can buy from them...ie ex chamber...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote S\/\/4T-L()G4N Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 July 2006 at 10:20pm
Originally posted by FA22RaptorF22 FA22RaptorF22 wrote:

I believe there may be many types of red because on all the tippmann's i have gotten, there has been red crap filling up the valve screw holes. Unless it wasn't locktite...but it must be because they give you a little white tube of red locktite with many of the parts you can buy from them...ie ex chamber...


Sorry shadow, but this one time I am with Raptor. I have yet to find any blue loctite on any of the Tippmann's I have worked on. There is a possibility that it was PURPLE, but I have never seen blue. With that said, I always replace it with blue

Another with that said, I have also never needed to use head to remove it, but the loctite from the factory is by FAR stronger than blue, have a red color, but does not ALWAYS require heat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shadowminion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2006 at 10:47am

Fair enough .

The point I was trying to beat to death , was that Tippmann does use Loctite , I think thats been established now .

Thanks !

SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
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