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this makes me want to kill someone!

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carl_the_sniper View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 May 2006 at 3:56pm

ok today i polished my internals. i used fine grit sandpaper only, no steel wool/polish. when i put it back together it is fine. but i hook up the co2 tank (no paint) and fire it, it shoots weird. i pull the trigger once, doesnt shoot, i pull it again it shoots, pull it again it doesnt shoot, i pull it again it does. it fires every other trigger pull. i also noticed that my 3 rd burst only fires between 1-2 shots and my fully auto is very slow. i have taken apart and put together my gun a few times now and nothing seems to work. i have some ideas as to what may be the problem:

1) i screwed up big time on polishing my internals

2) i didn't use polish on my internals after sanding so it sticks every other shot.

3) my tank o ring is bad

please tell me what you think my gun has never done this before. quickly before i die of stress.



Edited by carl_the_sniper - 10 May 2006 at 4:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote You Wont See Me Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2006 at 5:10pm
I told you not to use sandpaper....

Polishing internals also voids your warrenty, so you wont be getting any help from tippmann on this one.

Where exactly did you polish?


Edited by You Wont See Me - 10 May 2006 at 5:11pm
A-5
E-Grip
JCS Dual Trigger
DOP X-CORE 8 stage x-chamber
Lapco Bigshot 14" Beadblasted

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote massproduce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2006 at 5:13pm
 just stoppin by to show some luv, did you mess with the e grip? ive been wanting to polish the internals on my a5 but been skeptical about it, and now that im hearing what u going through im like WOOAH!! I hope someone help you soon, im sticking around for this one. good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paintballinbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2006 at 5:46pm

how fine grit? the purpose of polishing the internals is to get off the excess paint, or the overspray. THAT'S IT. after the paint is gone, you should stop, and you only polish the areas that have movement(ie where the front/rear bolt move, where the linkage arm slides, and the spot where the sear pivots). if you sanded everything, you may have taken too much off, and if you can't figure out how to get it to work soon you might have to buy some new recievers.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RavenGuard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2006 at 6:50pm
check the hammer o-ring, that everything is properly oiled and cleaned, that your detent is in right, and that it's not your e-grip.

Sounds mostly like it's the e-grips fault.  Polishing the internals will not do anything to your sear-hammer-drivespring mechanism.
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2006 at 6:53pm

any ideas on how to fix, do you think getting actual polish will work?

and i only took off the paint nothing else.

i think the actual problem is that they were not polished smoothe enough. could this be the problem?

if that is the problem then i will buy some steel wool and metal polish.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2006 at 7:04pm
anyone have any ideas on what i could use to make internals smoother?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2006 at 7:36pm

ok i think it is working now. i took it apart and cleaned it better and found some shavings that i missed before. i also put wayyy too much oil on the inside of it.

only thing is i only got off about 5 shots before co2 tank ran out of air so i couldnt fully test it. i shot 2-3 shots then the following 2 were the sounds of my co2 tank running out.

um just wondering if i had a bad oring as i was screwing it on is it normal to hear co2 coming out of end of gun almost the barrel? or do i have another problem? so could polishing internals possibly cause an air leak around the bolt? like does the bolt (the metal part of it) need an airtight seal around it in the insides or is it ok for air to go around it?



Edited by carl_the_sniper - 10 May 2006 at 7:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paintballinbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2006 at 8:07pm

if you heard air leaking out of the front of the gun, it might have been your valve. make sure the gun is cocked when you put the air on it. it's starting to sound like there's a problem with your egrip. if you only took off the paint, then you're fine. get some more air and let us know how it works...

as for finishing your polishing, i highly recommend fine steel wool....it'll make a very smooth finish, but it doesn't take off much material at all. once you have a very shiny finish(or if you already do), use some car wax, or get some mother's mag and aluminum polish to finish it off... good luck!

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milled;painted;J&J Ceramic;X-Chamber;R/T;Cyclone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2006 at 8:55pm

thanks very much paintballinbill. yes i think the problem was that it wasent cocked before i installed the tank. i will get steel wool tomorrow just about costs

how much for:steel wool

mothers mag

aluminum polish

and what's the difference between mothers mag and polish and what's better to use. can i buy steel wool and polish/mag at my really small tools store in my town?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce A. Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2006 at 3:02am
Originally posted by carl_the_sniper carl_the_sniper wrote:

ok i think it is working now. i took it apart and cleaned it better and found some shavings that i missed before. i also put wayyy too much oil on the inside of it.

only thing is i only got off about 5 shots before co2 tank ran out of air so i couldnt fully test it. i shot 2-3 shots then the following 2 were the sounds of my co2 tank running out.

um just wondering if i had a bad oring as i was screwing it on is it normal to hear co2 coming out of end of gun almost the barrel? or do i have another problem? so could polishing internals possibly cause an air leak around the bolt? like does the bolt (the metal part of it) need an airtight seal around it in the insides or is it ok for air to go around it?

The marker may leak air when it is air up (bottle is attached) when the hammer is not cocked.

Sounds as though you found the problem...you do have to clean well after sanding/polishing/steel wool-ing. The marker should have been completely apart while you "polished" the internal friction areas. Then you should have washed it in hot water and dish detergent. Dried it well then lightly wiped the polished areas with oil. Then a little oil through the ASA.

You, and everyone who comes looking for answers, should first read the stickies at the head of each forum. You will find most of these recurring problems are addressed there.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Not All There Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2006 at 11:20am

Make sure you read the posts in hear about how to polish your internals (there are some here as well as tons online), they mention a few ideas including the steel wool etc. The point of polishing isnt to remove metal, its just to get the nasty paint off the inside to make things slide better. If you sand it and its rough, it will act like the flatline barrel and actually cause friction and things wont flow as well. I used some Brillo Pads along with car polish and it worked great, you dont have to push to hard just be pasient and make sure you rub in the direction your parts move.

Seals shouldnt be screwed up or leaking unless you took metal off which by the sounds of it you said you only did the paint.

Tippmans are a real simple gun, there not much you can screw up in them.

Another thing is make sure it is cleaned perfectly to get all metal shavings or dust out of there before you fire.

Good luck, but it sounds like you ound the problem(s)

Air



Edited by Not All There - 11 May 2006 at 11:22am
Tippmann 98 Custom
-Polished Internals
-Cyclone System
-16" Smart Parts Linear Barrel
-Double Trigger
-Responce Trigger
-Painted and Milled Shell
-Nitro

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2006 at 3:40pm

so not cleaning it and too much oil was probably my problem?

anyways i never took off any metal only most of paint.

hmmm intresting the PCS people got back to me and said the problem was probably a weak battery that needed to push more since the polishing cool.

ok so i went to look at steel wool/ polish.   wool is $3 but should i go with super fine or just fine.

and what are a few good polishes. they had something like called maa or something.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Not All There Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2006 at 3:49pm

To be completly honest with you, i just used the Brillo Pads you buy at the food store, with some Mothers Wheel Polish I had laying around and just took my time

 

I also kept it wet at all times while doing it



Edited by Not All There - 11 May 2006 at 3:50pm
Tippmann 98 Custom
-Polished Internals
-Cyclone System
-16" Smart Parts Linear Barrel
-Double Trigger
-Responce Trigger
-Painted and Milled Shell
-Nitro

www.notallthereracing.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paintballinbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2006 at 5:34pm

either fine or extra fine steel wool will work, as long as you aren't using real coarse stuff that'll take off alot of material.

i used Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. you can buy it at any auto store, and probably wal-mart and other stores like that. when you first apply it, it will turn dark, but that means that it's working. then wipe it off, and it'll be nice and slick.

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milled;painted;J&J Ceramic;X-Chamber;R/T;Cyclone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2006 at 6:01pm

so do i go for the expensive polish?

and why did you keep it wet?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paintballinbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2006 at 6:55pm

the mother's stuff isn't all that expensive. but any car wax will work just as well (if you have some of that handy).

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milled;painted;J&J Ceramic;X-Chamber;R/T;Cyclone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2006 at 9:28pm
so will any metal polish do? the store near me doesn't sell mothers but sells other types, it is an all purpose metal polish.  is car wax cheaper, how much?

Edited by carl_the_sniper - 11 May 2006 at 9:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carl_the_sniper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2006 at 10:59pm
oh and final opinion, fine or very fine steel wool?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paintballinbill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2006 at 6:54pm

1. wax isn't completely necessary, it just makes the gun more slick. any car wax/metal polish will work.
2. either fine or extra fine will work...just don't take off too much metal. that's the key.

98 Custom
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