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Super R/T + QEV Tutorial

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2006 at 11:57am
I figured I'd go ahead and post what i believe are better alternative sources for these parts.

McMaster.com (part number first)
5006K34 Abrasion-Resistant Clear PVC Tubing 1/8" Id, 3/16" Od, 1/32" Wall (0.13/ft)
2844K53 Nickel-Plated Brass Barbed Tube Fitting Swvl Tee Barb X Unf X Barb for (2.83)
2844K13 Nickel-Plated Brass Barbed Tube Fitting Barb X Unf Male for 1/8" Tube Id, (0.83 x2)
9452K14 Buna-N O-Ring AS568A Dash Number 006, Packs of 100 (Same as (2.17) - Optional

Countysports.com
http://www.countysports.com/shop/product.php?productid=3258& cat=0&page=1
Palmers QEV $10 + super low shipping

Thats it. I would buy at least 2 ft of hose, and those small #6 orings are completely optional, you get an unusable number of them for 2 usd and i prefer loctite. I also reccomend low-strength-loctite on all 10-32 threads, especially qev->ram. The qev probably won't line up right if you screw it all the way down, so the best way to secure it facing the right direction is loctite.

Follow Up EDIT...
Pics of my <15usd Super RT + qev
Had to grind the barbs on the cyclone side. the barb on the qev had one full barb removed, and the tee was ground slightly. Dremel work. This allows enough clearance. Also, getting the old barb out of the rt flow control valve was a pain. I actually tore the barb off completely and had to take a dremel cutting disk and slot it so I could unscrew it w/ a flathead. Dang red loctite.
I have to say this is a must-have for hpa.

This is a useful page about the palmers qev. Especially the highlighted green part. The palmers qev is adjustable if it doesn't work.



Edited by pattison - 16 September 2009 at 12:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fenrirshaman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2006 at 12:21pm
Thanks Ravenguard for a great tutorial.  I found a clippard dealer by me and got all the pieces, cant wait to  put it together and start shooting people!
98c -
Flatline / JJ 14" Cer. barrel
RT kit
Cyclone Feed System
Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt
Collapsible Foldable Stock
32 degrees remote line
Other Necessities (red dot, sling, bipod, Rocket Cock II)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fenrirshaman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2006 at 12:25pm
and another thing, i was talking to  the rep and she explained to me the difference between a QEV and an MEV for all you who are wondering or are thinking they are the same thing...a QEV is bigger and uses a bigger release allowing it to release the air quicker than a standard MEV...but does anyone know if this is really necessary, or does the MEV cycle air out fast enough as it is?  I noticed Ravenguard used a Clippard MEV (Clippard doesnt make QEV's small enough for paintball guns).  I figured the MEV would cycle fast enough and a QEV would just be overkill, so i just got a MEV.
98c -
Flatline / JJ 14" Cer. barrel
RT kit
Cyclone Feed System
Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt
Collapsible Foldable Stock
32 degrees remote line
Other Necessities (red dot, sling, bipod, Rocket Cock II)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ShadowRide Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 12:41am
would the High flow Qev from Palmer work fine without a lpk?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fenrirshaman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 10:46pm
you dont need a lpk, and the QEV from palmer should work fine, or you could just do clippard's mev either or :)
98c -
Flatline / JJ 14" Cer. barrel
RT kit
Cyclone Feed System
Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt
Collapsible Foldable Stock
32 degrees remote line
Other Necessities (red dot, sling, bipod, Rocket Cock II)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metalman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 November 2006 at 6:21pm


1.) Go HERE
2.) Select your country.
3.) Enter other information it asks for (zip/postal etc.)
4.) Scroll down, and information on the nearest dealer will be displayed.

Now go get it tuned, and have some fun!

 

I orderded exactly the part number that were provided. The parts I received had the same numbers. The T banjo does not have a screw head its solid? The hose is too small? The exhaust side of the QEV, does it need to be plugged? If so with what. Last,This is called a MEV not a QEV...whats the difference? You have to buy these parts in multipul per package which costed aboy 10 or 12 bucks more than a Palmer QEV. is there any advantage over the Palmer than this one. If not, dont waste your time or extra money. Go with a Palmer. IMO Thanks in advance
[/QUOTE]



Edited by metalman - 01 November 2006 at 6:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote octnix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 November 2006 at 6:16am
I'm very interested in using this mod.  I just have one question however:

Does this mod allow the R/T and/or Cyclone to consume more air?  I noticed that instead of the air going back to the marker, it is released via the QEV.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 November 2006 at 9:20am
the qev should not waste any air, as all it does is provide a shortcut for exhaust air.
the high flow hoses, in theory, should take more air though. it might be a negligible amount, and i might be wrong. i don't have the time or money to waste paintballs and air in an efficiency test. maybe a reball field owner could settle the old "rt consumes more gas" argument with some hard data. wouldn't cost him much at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stang909 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2006 at 7:50pm
anybody who has done this to a 98 it would be much appericiated if you would put up some pics i would like to see what it is susposed to look like

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RavenGuard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 December 2006 at 1:45pm
Originally posted by beavertrapper beavertrapper wrote:

What would the total cost of this upgrade? I just ordered the barbs and QEV from palmer and it was like $27. I still need to purchase the kit from Tippmannparts for $20 plus shipping. Do you guys think its more cost effective to purchase an e-grip?

Some here posted that Tippmann wil send FREE upgrade for the R/T (the same $20 kit from tippmann parts) as long as you tell them its for your marker that will no longer be using CO2 but HPA tank. Is that true?



My super r/t setup cost me  about $10 CND for all the extra parts.



Originally posted by Fenrirshaman Fenrirshaman wrote:

and another thing, i was talking to  the rep and she explained to me the difference between a QEV and an MEV for all you who are wondering or are thinking they are the same thing...a QEV is bigger and uses a bigger release allowing it to release the air quicker than a standard MEV...but does anyone know if this is really necessary, or does the MEV cycle air out fast enough as it is?  I noticed Ravenguard used a Clippard MEV (Clippard doesnt make QEV's small enough for paintball guns).  I figured the MEV would cycle fast enough and a QEV would just be overkill, so i just got a MEV.


Actually the Clippard MEV is a quick exhaust valve, but it's much smaller than those usually used on cylinders, thus it is titled MEV to show it is smaller.  I guess MQEV would have overcomplicated things, but the "MEV" and "QEV" work exactly the same, the MEV is simply smaller.  (you can look at the schematics)

And pattison, are those ball bearings?


Edited by RavenGuard - 25 December 2006 at 1:52pm
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phil_stl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 January 2007 at 2:22pm

Originally posted by Stang909 Stang909 wrote:

anybody who has done this to a 98 it would be much appericiated if you would put up some pics i would like to see what it is susposed to look like

Maybe I waited too long, but I had exams to study for.  Anyway I figured I get you some pics.  Hopefully they help.  



Edited by phil_stl - 06 January 2007 at 2:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kluve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 January 2007 at 7:37pm

what is the purpose with the orifice? do I need to put it in there or can i leave it out.

My cyclone wont cycle and i cant figure out why.

i have a 98c w/ super rt and cyclone any suggestions

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote USNCV63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 February 2007 at 9:40am

I've just recently done some upgrades to my A-5 and now i'm having some problems. 

1.  I sanded down the inside were the bolts are with 1500 grit finishing sand paper and polished it with Mother's aluminum polish for a mirror finish. 

2.  Installed the Vortex Mod with Lightening rod, taking my time to do it also ( about 1 1/2 hour) making sure i got everything right.

3.  Last, i did the Super RT Mod with the Clippard QEV.  BTW, great instrucions RavenGuard

I oiled the inside with marker oil then put the gun back together.  I was testing out the response trigger, dialing it in, and now i only get a short burst of 2 or 3 shots.  I took it to my local dealer and we spent almost 3 hours trying to find the problem.  There was a bad O-ring were the trigger cylinder is and also the O-ring on the bolt, we replaced both of them and the problem was still there.  We tried putting on an Egrip and it worked fine, which i assume would tell me that the O-rings inside the body of the gun were ok.  What we noticed was that the CO2 was freezing up after about 2-3 minutes of use with a fresh bottle of CO2 then the response trigger would not work, as a matter of fact the T banjo fitting was getting white with frost on it and the expansion chamber would be freezing.  We tried replacing the super RT with the stock 1/16 inch hose and fittings and still had the same problem.  Also tried replacing the trigger cylinder and that didn't fix it. 

Could i have possibly applied too much oil before i put th gun back together??  I don't believe i sanded down too much, kinda hard to do with 1500 grit, everything inside seems to be snug.  Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appriciated, Thanks. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phil_stl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 February 2007 at 11:52am
Ya I had the same problem... except I sanded my internals with grit 660.

...grit 1500 holy crap you could get more off by rubbing your tumbs against it. lol.

Anyway I did have the same problem.  Sometimes my RT would just hit the back of the trigger and bounce back in not even set the RT off.   So there couldn't have been enough air pressure.

I took it all off and gave up for six months and then I put it back on and tried it out again and made sure I had proper orings (ones bigger than Clippard gives you - or you could pile all of the Clippard barb o-rings on top of each other but I suggest finding slightly bigger/thicker o-rings).  That made sure there was no leaks and it started working great. 

You also have to spend a good amount of time actually dialing it in.  Turn the ROF screw 1/4 of a turn then test, turn the ROF screw 1/4 of a turn then test, turn the ROF screw 1/4 of a turn then test etc. until it shoots like mad.

Good luck

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote USNCV63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 February 2007 at 4:16pm

Phil

Do you know what kind of o-rings you used or what they are made for?  Specifics is what i'm looking for there so that i can go out and find some too.  I did notice that even by putting on the extra o-rings you still do not get a good tight seel.  As a matter of fact it was still a little loose last night when we were testing it but now i have it really cranked on there. And was your's freezing up at the T barb also?  Last night when we were dialing it in it was working until it would freeze up in about 2 minutes, then just a short 2-3 burst no matter where you dialed it in at.

I was talking to someone at work today about this and described my problem to him.  He was thinking of possibly drilling out the hole of the T barb that goes into the gun itself.  Let me try to refrase that, not drill the hole in the T barb but in the gun, allowing more CO2 to travel into there, thinking this could be the problem, or that i did in fact over do it with the oil and that hole is gummed up. 

He also called Tippmann tech support and they told me to add an expansion chamber, which i already have, or switch to HPA or Nitro.  I'm not even sure where the closest place to get either of those filled is so that is probably out. 

1500 grit, it's the way to go man, takes about 2 hours but it's worth itthat and some mother's aluminum polish which really takes off the over spray very well.  Gets a good mirror finish to it.

Thanks for the help, much appriciated

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phil_stl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 February 2007 at 7:42pm

I don't know what my o-rings are made of.

I heard Buna and nitrile aren't good with C02.  The best is Urethane but I don't know if you could find any Urethane ones that small.  Buna or Nitrile ones might work but eessh.

What other material is o-rings made of?  Anyone can answer this.

Yes my t barb does freeze up.  HPA is the best solution.  I run an ex-chamber antisiphoned tank or exchamber with remote and a non anti siphoned tank that is standing upwards so no CO2 is getting into it.  But it will still frost and the exchamber will still gets freezing cold.

Drilling a bigger hole in the gun??  What?? The T-fitting screws into the powertube.  So you'd have to drill the powertube... making that hole any bigger would wreck the powertube as in the fitting won't screw into it any more. 

Grit 1500??  I spent at least 1.5 hours on mine but first I used steel wool to get all the hard stuff off!  Then grit 660, anything over 800 seams useless to me.  Did you actually get the rough finish off?  If so wow, you must have been scrubbing those intenz like crazy, or have really strong hands and arms.  I did you mothers mag polish too btw.

The problem could be the oil.  I only use the best: "Kermode Concepts 100% Synthetic Trouble Free Gun Oil" it won't slush and it's even FDA approved so if you're thisty .  Anyway what oil do you use?



Edited by phil_stl - 02 February 2007 at 7:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote USNCV63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 February 2007 at 8:56pm

I was wondering where you got your o-rings and if possibly a paintball shop would have them.  I also run and ex-chamber antisiphoned tank and get the same problem. 

Never mind the drilling a bigger hole into the power tube idea, i didn't realize it was set up that way, i was thinking something different.  I should have looked before i typed.

Yeah i had to sand like hell to get all the rough parts out but it worked, i wanted to go with the 1500 so there would be less of a chance of scaring the insides, and then yes i used mothers mag polish, it worked great. 

The oil i use is Extreme Rage Paintball Marker Oil.  Made by PMI, resists freezing, 100% synthetic.  Sounds ok to me.

I'm going to give it another run tomorrow and see what happens after putting it back together again.  I'll probably strip it down and wipe out some of the oil thinking that i possibly put too much in.  That's the only thing i can think of.  The QEV is on there very tight now so that shouldn't be an issue. 

One other question, where is RavenGuard on this subject, he seems to be the guru (sp?) on the super RT. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phil_stl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 February 2007 at 10:51pm

I honestly don't know were I got the o-rings.  The o-rings were found from my brothers extra o-rings, parts for ion or something.

I was going to buy a ion o-ring kit on ebay for ions but they were buna and nitrile o-rings so I didn't but maybe they might work.

Yup that mothers mag is great... except for the smell.

Good luck tommorow.

Raven hasn't been around much recently, IDK why not though... maybe school? I figured in the meanwhile I could pick up the slack.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote USNCV63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2007 at 1:18pm

Well Phil here's todays progress report.  None, no progress. 

Tried it out first thing today, and it was working fine until it froze like it was before.  Took it apart, wiped out the inside and did find that the oil was slightly black that i was wiping out.  Took apart the feeder to see how the Vortex Mod was looking and the grease was discolored from the rachet, wiped it clean as best as i could and greased it up again.  I noticed that since i did crank the QEV down tight that the extra o-rings just kinda pushed up so i think i'm going to try and get replacement for it, but i don't think that it is leaking. 

I did notice that the o-ring on the stock is sliced, not sure if that would be a problem with this. 

Should i try turning down the velocity?  I was thinkng about that too.  Through any ideas you have my way, i'm running out of options to check

I'm going to give it a little while and put the 1/16 hose lines and fittings back on later after my CO2 has warmed up. 

I'm thinking i'm going to PM Raven for his opinion and see what he says. 

A-5
Polished internals
Flatline
16" ThunderPig w/shroud
Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod
Expansion Chamber
Oversized Hopper
3 point sling
MaddMann Spring Set
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phil_stl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 February 2007 at 3:50pm

I have not installed my vortex mod or my lightening rod yet.  You said you spent much time installing it getting it right so I don't think it's that.  (did you use oil on the Vortex mod? or grease like shocker lube or dye lube etc.)

Yes do try turning down the velocity and test some more, then test at different velocities.  (Turning the screw out makes the velocity go higher.  Turning the screw in lowers the velocity).

Getting new o-rings could probably help but I personally don't think that is your problem.

Plus don't worry about the oil looking a little black, it happens.

The o-ring on the stock doesn't matter, I took mine off completely.

Lastly it could just be that you need to keep shooting it more.  I think that was my real problem... the RT takes a bit of time to break in.  If you have shoot over 1000 paintballs then there is definitely a problem.  But maybe you just need to break it all in.

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