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    Posted: 11 September 2005 at 2:16pm
Digital Camouflage Howto


1.) More time than money (Ghetto)
2.) Middle of the road.
2.) More money than time. (Pimped)

Shopping List

Ghetto Materials
$20 Good paint from hardware store.
$13 /10 sheets Frisket low tack adhesive
$4 Xacto blade
Subtotal ~$37

Middle of the road
$20 Good paint from hardware store.
$20 Digital Stencil from my site
$4 Xacto Blade.
Subtotal ~$50

Pimped Materials.
Purchase a paint kit from Lauer Custom Weaponry.
$98 Desert MirageFlage Stencil plus 4 bottles of paint
$30 Add in a level II airbrush kit
$15 Shipping
Subtotal: ~$145


Other Materials required.

$5 Denatured Alcohol
$5 M.E.K paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper (thanks to Malevolanet_frog for the jasco tip)
$5 3m Blue Paint Masking tape. This masking tape is low tack so it wonít peel the paint underneath when you remove it.
$3 Wet/Dry fine sanding sponge
Subtotal: ~$18

Optional Materials:

Painting jig to hold the weapon. I simply dropped a chain from the ceiling with a hook on the end to hold the weapon
Sandpaper for metal (for anodized parts)
Understanding Wife (soon to be painting widow)
Lint free towels for cleaning


Ghetto: Creating a Stencil.
Go to my site and generate a stencil.
Some sample settings.
Color Type: Stencil B&W
Paper Size: 8.5x11
Pixel Size: 13 (this will yield ~1/8" squares when printed)
Quantity: 75
Drift: 1
Choose Digi for the pattern.
Click submit.

If you donít like what you see hit F5 to reload the page.
Experiment with the values; you are doing a custom paint job after all.
Try to generate as much random patterns on page that you can. You will be cutting out each one separately.

Here is an example:



Next print the stencil to a laser printer.

I put my low tack stencil plastic in the manual bypass tray.

Make sure it prints the image on the plastic side, not the paper side.

Please be careful, some printers will not like this and I donít want to get you in trouble with your IT department. Below are my settings on an old HP5000 LaserJet. I set it for manual feed tray and set the paper to ďtransparencyĒ.



Start cutting out the stencils. I try to keep the blade touching at all times so that I donít have small hanging chads.

FOR CRYING OUT LOUD, take your time.

Sloppy work here is just plain inexcusable.

You want a crisp sharp edge, nice 90í angles and such.

Sloppy cuts will yield a crappy finish.

Patience young padowan. Remember, you have more TIME than money ghetto dawg!

(Make sure to not touch the tacky side of the stencils with your fingers, use your xacto blade to lift and set the stencil. The oils from your fingers will inhibit the stencil from sticking which will make your paint bleed under when you hit it with a blast from your spray can.)

TIP: When doing other camo style you actually want that feathered look. In those cases make all the edges less sticky by touching them with your fingers.



Edited by Desert Wookie - 19 February 2007 at 8:31pm
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The Painting Process

Step One: Cleaning

Clean your marker and clean it damn good. Failure to do so will cause immense emotional scarring.

Use latex gloves. This will protect your digits and also keep you from depositing oils on the soon to be painted weapon.

Decide whether or not you want to strip the paint off of your old marker. M.E.K. will peel it all off. When working with chemicals of any sort, its generally a good idea to test it on a small surface (Say the bottom of your marker) to see how it reacts. Same with your hopper. I had no problems with M.E.K on my Model-98, other than the fact that it wanted to take off the original factory paintjob. I actually didnít want this because it would entail a lot more scrubbing work. So after a quick cleaning with M.E.K. I rinsed it with water and wiped with alcohol.

CAUTION
MEK and paint strippers are nasty chemicals to work with. utilize proper protective equipment and procedures.
Gloves, Paint respirator and work in a well ventilated area. DO NOT TAKE CHANCES WITH YOUR HEALTH!


Step Two: Sanding

Take your sanding sponge, get it moist and scuff any smooth plastic areas, like your hopper. This will give the paint something to bite in to. Use a fine grit so that you donít have any gouges. Rinse off any plastic dust.

My first attempt, at the very end when I pulled the stencil, voila, all the paint came off! So do it right the first time, lightly sand the plastic and make sure its clean when you are finished.

If you have any anodized aluminum or any other polished metal, you will need to sand it a bit for the paint to bite. (May require a special aluminium-oxide sand paper for metal surfaces (FINE GRIT or better). I tried steel wool to no real effect.

Mask off any areas you do not want paint to get into to. Like say, your open bolts, hopper feed tubes, etc...
I disassembled my marker, removed the bolt, placed masking tape inside to protect the internals.

Apply the basecoat.

This should be done slowly, and evenly.
It is better to apply 5 light coats than 1 heavy dripping coat.

Initiate the spray before you reach your marker, that way you have a nice fine mist hitting your gun. If you start right above your marker you risk globs and splotches. Not good. Not good at all young jedi.

Experiment with distances. If you spray from too far back, the paint particles will glob together making a nasty orange peel looking finish. For my airbrush 3 inches seemed good.


Basecoat of Urban White


Let it dry per the manufacturers instructions. Longer is better.

TIP: Using the oven
In general, yes you can cure your parts in a 100 degree over for 20mins - 1 hour.
But be careful, more residential ovens swing wildly. For protection, stick a rolled up towel in the door to prop it open.



Start placing stencils with the assistance of your xacto blade. Do not press them down until you are happy with the position. Remember, with Digital camo you want to make sure the pattern runs parallel/perpendicular to your marker. Once you are happy, press them down to make sure they stick.

TIP:
Dont be afraid to cut your stencils up if they seem to large or too wide.



Urban White w/ Stencils applied.

Note: Everywhere you place a stencil on the basecoat will show through all subsequent layers. I tend to use smaller stencils on the basecoat so that I dont overwhelm the following layers.

Apply the next lightest color. Let it dry.
Repeat until you are done.


Snow Gray w/ Stencils Applied


After the weapon is dry, remove all the templates.




Now if you want you can place your female templates on the weapon now.

I tend to use these to cover up any areas where I feel the pattern is to large or to cover up areas where the paint peeled off with the stencil. It happens.

You may want to follow up with a matte clear coat for added durability. Plus it will even out the sheen of the different paints.

One final thought... Spray cans waste so much paint. I really prefer a small airbrush for this type of work.

Some more completed samples:






Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. [email]info@tacticalcamo.com[/email]


Edited by Desert Wookie - 19 February 2007 at 8:36pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 September 2005 at 2:17pm

<I copied this tiger-stripe how-to from Wookie's other thread.  Enjoy.>  <Rambino>

(I didnt have a marker to paint, so I used  1 half of a ruger 10-22 bullpup stock)

Howto: Paint Your Weapon Tigerstripe Style
By Wookie ;)

Materials
Matte Black Spray Paint
Green Spray Paint
Tan Spraypaint
3m Blue Painters Tape


    Howto: Paint Your Weapon Tigerstripe Style
    By Wookie

    Materials
    1. Matte Black Spray Paint
    2. Green Spray Paint
    3. Tan Spraypaint
    4. 3m Blue Painters Tape
    Clean and Prep
    Start by cleaning and preping your weapon. Please see my 'Howto Paint your marker Digital style' for more info.

    Apply the basecoat
    It can either be green or black. I went with green, which made the final product more black. (as you will see)
    Remember to apply a nice thin coat. You want just enough paint to color it, not drown it.



    TIP:
    If you spray too close you will get drips.
    If you spray too far it will glob in the air and give you the dreaded 'orange peel' effect.

    Allow it to dry. You can bake it to speed things along if you wish. Dont let your oven get above 110F. (put a towel in the door to prop it open)

    Taping
    Tear long strips of blue painters tape and apply it to your weapon. (make sure ant tear both sides (my photo only shows 1 side torn)

    Lay out the strips along the length of your weapon.





    Spray it with the black spraypaint (or green if you used the black as your basecoat.
    Allow it to dry.



    More Taping
    Now apply the 3m tape along the edge of your previously laid tape. You want small little lines of tan;
    Less is more at this stage. I actually used an airbrush to get in close, you maybe not be able to do that with a spray can, so you may want to mask off more than I showed in this picture.





    Allow it to dry.


    UnTaping
    Pull the tape off by tugging it against itself. This will help 'cut' the paint and reduce the chances of paint peeling off with the tape.




    Enjoy, Wookie.

    Edited by Desert Wookie - 19 February 2007 at 8:38pm
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2005 at 9:25pm
    Originally posted by FyreFly FyreFly wrote:

    Digi Camo looks great. I'm curious to know how well the paint stuck to the
    grip and other non-metallic parts however.

    I've painted a few markers and evertime I have done so I have only painted
    dissasembled and stripped recievers, not any plastic or rubber parts.



    When I did the '98 in this howto, i hand sanded everthing I could. The grips were impossible to sand. Over time the paint wore down some.

    In later paintjobs, i sandblasted everything and the paint has not worn at all. I also followed the final coat w/ Duracoat Clear (for added protection).

    The sandblasting has really helped w/ the Hoppers, since the plastic can be a bear to get paint to stick to...

    Thanks for the comments guys...Makes me want to paint more... :)



    Edited by Desert Wookie
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2005 at 9:46pm
    Originally posted by brihard brihard wrote:

    Hey, awesome job. :D If I'm not mistaken, didn't you post this over at MilSimOG too? I'm sur eI've seen you before.


    Yeppers, that was me...

    Originally posted by brihard brihard wrote:

    Those are some nice paintjobs. Out of curiosity, can you get smaller pixels with your templates?


    Yes, just punch in a smaller number in the Pixel textbox.
    It defaults to 13...

    Originally posted by brihard brihard wrote:

    BTW, nice Aisrosft Walther P99. I've got a spring one of those.


    Thats a real S&W Model 99. They worked w/ walther. The bottom half is walther, the top is Smith. She's my baby right now...
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2005 at 9:46pm
    Originally posted by bluemunky42 bluemunky42 wrote:

    did you do all of those? wow. i like the blue one best.


    Yep, did 'em all...
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 September 2005 at 11:40am
    Originally posted by cv222005 cv222005 wrote:

    isnt the blue just painters tape?



    its vinyl stencil material from LCW.

    But i did use 3m painters tape for the woodland/predator A5....Great stuff. Cheap too. :)


    Edited by Desert Wookie
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 September 2005 at 8:00pm
    Originally posted by brihard brihard wrote:

    Oops, my mistake- though at least I identified the weapon correctly. 

    How do you like the weapon? I'm going to be in the market for a 9mm in the next while- I'm currently thinking a Sig 226, a Glcok 17, or a Browning Hi-Power, but if the 99 is a nice one I'd like to hear it.


    I love that little pistol. It comes w/ a bunch of 'backstraps' that you can insert into the grip to adjust the width of the pistol. For me, this is a big deal, I have big paws, and the standard 1911 frame is too small for me. The glocks felt boxy. The SW99 was just right. :)

    It has a 2-stage trigger so when you have the time you can really aim well.  All in all, my most favorite pistol yet... :)


    Edited by Desert Wookie
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 September 2005 at 8:05pm
    Originally posted by neocool00 neocool00 wrote:

    Wookie,
    What airbrush kit did you use? How did you keep paint from getting on the inside of your barrel?


    For the Model 98 in the HOWTO i used LCW's level 2 airbrush kit, which is  basicly a single action pasche siphon feed airbrush (cheap, but useable). I already had an air compressor so I didnt use the canned air that comes with the kit.

    The other markers were painted using a gravity fed HVLP airgrun w/ a 3oz cup.

    My next one will be painted using a combination of an Iwata HP-CS and the HVLP Airgun. Waiting on a new heavy duty air compressor for my sandblaster.

    As for keeping the paint out of the barrel, I rolled a scrap of cotton shirt around a wooden dowel  and stuck it in the barrel. Workes well. :)


    Edited by Desert Wookie
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 October 2005 at 9:41pm
    Originally posted by kuhndog599 kuhndog599 wrote:

    i would love to do that but i dont think i can.


    Can, you must....yess....




    Edited by Desert Wookie
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 October 2005 at 10:02pm
    Originally posted by SniperDude SniperDude wrote:

    Would electrical tape work too?


    For stenciling Material? I think the tape has too strong of a glue. You would risk pulling off the paint underneat the tape.

    3M painters tape is cheap and available at most hardware stores.
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 October 2005 at 9:31am
    Originally posted by The Guy The Guy wrote:

    very good thread Wookie, I actually saw some of this at my field.

    When asked, he said that this is where he got it.


    Cool, i hope they post pics of it...I'm always amazed when I see what other people do...One guy on the A5OG used the stencil and cut out some mossy oak stickers. Quite ingenious use of the stencil...


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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Glock18 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 November 2005 at 9:54pm
    sup wookie? im only 12 so ill try on airsoft gun first. can i use spray paint?
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2005 at 9:36am
    Yes you can use spraypaint. It will show scratches and chipping  overtime, but it is a nice cost effective option.
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 November 2005 at 5:48pm






    Edited by Desert Wookie
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote County Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 November 2005 at 7:14pm
    Here's Torso Bob with his Digital Camo head saver.




    Edited by County
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Glock18 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 December 2005 at 7:07pm

    go to this site and it has lots of cool crap, even digital vynl sheets

    http://shopping.netsuite.com/opsgear

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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 December 2005 at 8:32pm
    Originally posted by Glock18 Glock18 wrote:

    go to this site and it has lots of cool crap, even digital vynl sheets

    http://shopping.netsuite.com/opsgear



    Have you used them? I heard that some of those camo stickers were crap. I dunno what brand the folks were talkin' about tho.
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jw1961 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 December 2005 at 9:08pm
    Originally posted by County County wrote:

    Here's Torso Bob with his Digital Camo head saver.


    lol
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    Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kuhndog599 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 February 2006 at 5:53pm

    man my paintjob is screwed up. its like flaking off. and i used a whole can of clearcoat.

    i didnt do a real good job on my digi camo so i'm probably just going to make it flat black with that drybrushing thing or just olive drab. which would look best with a stock and mag kit. its supposed to look like a sig rifle. i'm selling the handguard because its plastic and cracking like crazy. ( i ran into a tree the last time we were playing and the front site snapped off). i want to buy my friends flatline but he says no because he lost the adapter in his room and is too lazy to look for it. what an idiot it would be a great way for him to make some money. so yeah which paintjob?

    model 98 - homemade handguard
    solid stock - opsgear mag
    polished internals
    homemade sling - paintjob
    operator barrel
    progressive barrel
    opsgear mag - stock
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